There are ready-made projects, but they often do not satisfy all needs. Such oven, ordering which has already been designed, often requires modification. The change in order must be recorded in the project with an accurate drawing of each row of brickwork. To be 100% sure, after adjusting the project, you need to show it to a specialist and agree with him on all the nuances of the future furnace.
Finished stove project
The main rule that must be taken into account when designing a furnace is the safety of its operation, so consultation with a specialist is a necessary measure.
When making amendments and changes to the finished project, you should take into account the construction features:
- the firebox in the heaters should be large;
- the grates are laid along the blower part of the furnace;
- when constructing a heater raised on the firebox, it is necessary to ensure the height of the firebox is equal to approximately nine rows of brickwork;
- the distance between the stove and other bathhouse furniture made of wood must be at least 35 cm;
- each row of masonry is checked using a building level;
- the masonry begins from the installed stove doors;
- The stove chimney in the section between the heater and the roof must be covered with a heat insulator.
When building a firebox, you should take into account its purpose - ensuring good combustion. For normal operation it is necessary to ensure sufficient air flow. This is facilitated by the large size of the firebox. For the same reason, the blower should also be large in size.
Large grates provide the necessary air flow, but they are often difficult to select. The way out of this situation is to install several fire bars.
The height of the firebox should be at least 50 cm, that is, about 9 masonry. This will ensure even heating of the bricks. If the height of the firebox is smaller, the temperature of the bricks will drop, and soot will constantly accumulate between them.
Starting the laying from the doors, you need to stock up on strips or asbestos cords for winding that part of the door that is adjacent to the brickwork. In this part, the masonry is secured using strong wire to secure the seams. To ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure, it is recommended to lay special grooves or grooves into which the wire will lie.
Below is a visual example of a project in which a tank that heats water is in direct contact with a heater. This allows for additional heating from the chimney.
Furnace design with a tank located on the side
The heater's container has dimensions of 53x51x50 cm; sheet steel 8-9 mm thick was used in the manufacture of the container. To make the tank, a pipe with a cross section of 400 mm was used. This container can hold about 50 liters of water. A frame made by welding from corners was used as a support.
The design features of this stove are the lid, when opened, stones are placed inside and liquid is filled on top. When the lid is closed, the stones will heat up as much as possible, and if you open it or open it slightly, the heating temperature of the stones will decrease.
After the heater is installed on the welded frame, it should be covered with bricks. For convenience, the bricks are laid edgewise.
Below is a design option for a closed heater with a tank installed on the side.
Closed heater with tank
As you can see from the figure below, the order is extremely simple and easy to do.
Do-it-yourself brick sauna stove: ordering
To heat a steam room designed for four people to steam at the same time, you can use the projects presented below.
Furnace placement
This stove with a closed heater is not small in size. Features of operation are that the stones are loaded into the heater only after the stove is completely dry.
This design is called a continuous stove, which means it can be lit even if there are vacationers in the room. The special design developed by A. Zabolotny is absolutely safe, since during heating no combustion products are released into the room.
Another feature of such a stove is the possibility of installing ventilation for the subfloor of the bathhouse. This will extend the service life of the room and protect the floor from moisture. For this, a regular corrugated hose is usually used.
Brick oven by A. Zabolotny
To build such a furnace, you need to stock up on:
- bricks for masonry (approximately 700-800 pcs);
- fireclay bricks in the amount of 35-45 pieces;
- thirty buckets of sand;
- clay in the amount of 200-250 liters;
- doors and sashes for ovens
- corners for making a frame base;
- grates.
In order for the heater cabinet in which the stones are placed to withstand high temperatures normally, it should be made of high-quality stainless steel. To give the structure the necessary rigidity, stiffeners should be welded along the side walls. Such DIY brick oven, the order of which is shown in the figure below, is easy to construct and is highly reliable and safe.
Furnace order
For masonry you should use the following algorithm.
- The beginning of the masonry begins with the construction of a ventilation duct for the steam room. The scheme must be followed with precision. To determine the correct placement, you should periodically check the level of the masonry for compliance with the horizontal and vertical surfaces.
- A damper should be installed in the third row of masonry. This is where the fireboxes are formed and their doors (doors) are mounted. In the next row, it is necessary to block the damper with a channel, which will be used to cleanse accumulated soot. In the fourth row, a door for this channel is built, with the help of which cleaning will be carried out.
- It is necessary to close the blower flaps in the next, fifth, row of masonry. Also in this row it is necessary to install metal jumpers, about three millimeters thick.
- In the sixth row, separation is carried out using grates. Also here it is necessary to line the firebox shaft using fireclay bricks. For masonry you will need a special mortar intended for the construction of a firebox.
- Under the gratings you need to go deeper into the brick. This will allow you to maintain a gap if thermal expansion is necessary.
- For the construction of chimney channels, it is necessary to use strips of reliable metal laid in bricks.
- The seventh row is placed to install the firebox doors. For this, fireclay bricks laid on the side are also used. Simultaneously with the masonry, it is necessary to install the firebox doors themselves.
- In the eighth row, the masonry should be continued on the side of the firebox flaps.
- In the ninth row of masonry, the doors are covered with strips of metal, which will also serve as support for the floor bricks.
- Next, you need to line the doors on top with bricks. If necessary, for a denser masonry, the bricks can be sawed down.
- 1In the eleventh row, it is necessary to lay a slab platform above the first shaft, and above the second shaft, a fireclay brick laying is used on the smaller side of the firebox. In the future, when a container for stones is installed, chimney channels will be built in this part.
- Next, you need to install a metal box to place the stones in it. Also in this row one chimney channel is laid.
- In the next few rows, the masonry is carried out as a continuation of the previous rows.
- In the fifteenth row of masonry, a sash should be installed through which soot will be removed.
- In the sixteenth row above the shaft it is necessary to mount jumpers.
- The next row is characterized by a branching into two chimneys, just as it was done in the fifth row. To begin the next row of masonry, it is necessary to install lintels above the chimney shaft slab. These lintels will serve as a support for laying the next rows.
- In the eighteenth row, it is necessary to mount the chimney flap, and in the next row, metal jumpers should be mounted on the other side of the heater. These lintels are necessary for laying the ceiling and building the vault of the heater.
- In the twenty-first row, it is necessary to continue the masonry, taking into account the chimney ducts. In the following rows there is a narrowing of the volume of the shaft, and in the twenty-fourth row the shaft in which the reservoir for placing stones is stored is finally closed.
How the chimney is built and formed is shown in the figure below.
19. Starting from the twenty-fourth row of masonry, it is necessary to block another fuel shaft, and starting from the 27th row, the chimney is blocked.
Small brick oven
In a small steam room there is no need to install a large stove. To do this, it is enough to build a small stove that will effectively heat the steam room.
The advantage of the furnace shown in the figure below is its ease of construction and cost-effectiveness.
Small sauna stove project
The procedure for such a stove is extremely clear and simple. This furnace can be erected without a foundation, subject to all fire safety measures. The stove is lightweight, so construction is quick and easy.
Self-construction of a sauna stove is not the easiest, but it is a completely feasible undertaking that requires thorough preparation and a thoughtful approach. After reading the information below, you will learn about the important nuances of designing a sauna stove, and also consider the key stages of constructing a brick structure.
A sauna stove can have different dimensions, selected primarily in accordance with the area of the room served. The most common stoves are built with a base measuring 890x1020 mm (3.5x4 bricks) or 1020x1290 mm (4x5 bricks) and a height excluding the chimney of 168 cm or 210 cm, respectively. The second option is better suited for steam rooms with increased ceiling height.
The most preferable option for a brick stove for a bath is a model with a water circuit (a tank for heating water). It makes no sense to present many projects - they are almost identical, only the location of the tank for heating water changes. The most popular options are a brick stove with a bottom-mounted tank and a brick stove for a bath with a top-mounted tank.
The following images show diagrams of a brick oven with a bottom-mounted water tank.
Schemes of a brick oven with a bottom-mounted water tank
Schemes of a brick oven with a bottom placement of the water tank (order)
The following images clearly demonstrate the design of a brick stove for a bathhouse with the tank placed at the top.
Making the project safe: basic principles
Before you begin to study further information on arranging a sauna stove, you need to consider and remember the key safety provisions, violation of which can lead to extremely adverse consequences.
Traditionally, the oven is built near the wall opposite to the shelves in the steam room. The stove design must be created in such a way that a minimum distance of 30-40 centimeters is maintained between the heating parts of the finished unit and everything that supports combustion. If special protection is installed, for example, made of asbestos cardboard, this figure can be reduced to 15-20 cm.
Using a heat insulator in the construction of a furnace - an example 
Prices for asbestos cardboard
asbestos cardboard
A gap must be maintained between the smoke exhaust pipe and the floor/roof elements and those in contact with it, which is subsequently filled with fireproof material. Asbestos is most often used for protection. From above, the mentioned gap with insulation is closed with a steel shaped plate.
For additional protection, the area of the floor in front of the stove firebox is covered with a metal sheet about 10 mm thick. It will protect the flooring material from fire if coals fall out of the firebox.
The standard option for placing a stove in the bath space is shown in the following image. Here you can also see the order of organizing the water circuit, which can be taken as a basis if the supply of warm water will be provided by the stove unit, as well as the features of connecting and removing the chimney.
What to build a stove from?
The kit for self-construction of a brick sauna stove includes the following items:
- brick;
- clay for preparing masonry mortar (sand will also be needed);
- container for preparing the solution;
- tools for marking (pencil, rope, square, tape measure, etc.) and masonry (trowel, pick, mallet, etc.);
- materials for insulation (roofing felt, asbestos);
- elements for the manufacture of a water tank and a smoke exhaust pipe (if you plan to assemble them yourself, but it is much more profitable in terms of time and labor costs to purchase ready-made units).
The issue of choosing bricks for masonry deserves special attention. The strength of this material, first of all, should be higher than that of ordinary white or red brick. The ideal option is fireclay bricks with the highest fire-resistant properties.
In terms of key performance characteristics, bricks based on fireclay clay are noticeably superior to their closest “brothers,” but are much more expensive. In view of this, in order to keep the final costs of constructing a sauna stove within reasonable limits, fireclay bricks are used for laying areas exposed to the most intense heating.
Prices for fireclay bricks
fireclay brick
In places that heat up to more modest levels, it is advisable to use solid red brick, designed to perform the work in question.
For example, external walls, smoke vents, various decorative elements, etc. can be made from such bricks.
Important! Solid ceramic bricks can be distinguished by their markings in the form of the letter “M” and accompanying numbers indicating the value of the maximum load per 1 cm2. For laying a brick oven, you should use a material of at least M-150 grade.
You can distinguish real high-quality stove bricks by 3 key features.
Video - Choosing bricks for laying a stove
What mortar should I use for masonry?
The laying of brick sauna stoves is traditionally done using clay mortar. It is best if the type of clay used as the basis for the brick used is used for its preparation, i.e. red or fireclay. In this case, the brick and masonry will give the same thermal expansion during the heating process, which will ensure the longest possible life of the finished building.
Helpful advice! It has been established that the thinner the masonry joint is made, the higher the resulting quality of the stove. However, this issue also needs to be approached wisely: ideal masonry is obtained with a joint thickness of 0.5 cm. Reducing the value below the mentioned indicator will contribute to a noticeable reduction in the service life of the stove.
In addition to clay, sand is included in the solution. It must first be sifted so that the solution ends up with material containing grains of sand no larger than 1-1.5 mm in size. The millimeter value is the most preferred. It is also important that the sand does not have silt inclusions and is of a uniform color. For sifting, use sieves of appropriate fractions.
Separate requirements apply to water, which is also used in the process of preparing masonry mortar. First of all, it must be clean, contain the minimum possible amount of mineral inclusions, and not have a musty smell. Laying 100 bricks takes about 15-20 liters of water.
Before preparing the solution, the clay must be placed in any suitable container (for example, a large basin), crushed and filled with clean water in such an amount that the result is the most homogeneous mass, not too thick and not very liquid. Mix the solution thoroughly, dissolving any lumps that have formed. Leave the mixture of clay and water for a day, then strain and rub the resulting lumps through a sieve.
Sand is added to the prepared solution last. On average, a liter jar of sand is added to a bucket of water, but this moment must be carefully controlled, because the amount of river sand in the solution directly affects the fat content of the latter. In addition, the required amount of sand may vary depending on the initial fat content of the clay. If the masonry mixture is too greasy, the stove may simply collapse during operation. A thin (non-greasy) mortar will not allow achieving the desired quality of adhesion of bricks, as a result of which the scenario already discussed will be repeated.
There are several simple ways to determine the fat content of clay in artisanal conditions.
Take 500 g of clay and mix it with water. It is best to knead by hand until you obtain a mixture that has a uniform consistency and does not stick to your hands.
Important! For laying a sauna stove, you can only use a solution of medium fat content.
Roll the previously prepared mixture into a ball the size of a small apple. Place the molded product on any flat, hard surface and gently press it with a board. Press down slowly enough to fix the formation of cracks.
If the clay ball disintegrates without cracking, the clay is non-greasy. The appearance of a crack half the size of the diameter indicates that the fat content of the clay is too high. In the case of a solution of normal fat content, the crack will take approximately 0.2 the diameter of the clay ball.
Preparing oven mortar - tips
Video - Preparation of mortar for laying a stove
Sequence of construction of a sauna stove
Regardless of the chosen configuration of a brick sauna stove, the procedure for its construction remains identical for all situations: from the foundation to the installation of a smoke exhaust pipe and finishing. In the following table you can find important information about each stage of the event in question.
Table. The procedure for constructing a sauna stove
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| There are several types of foundations for sauna stoves. You are offered the most optimal and popular option. Do the following: - mark the area for the future foundation by driving pegs in the corners and along the perimeter of the foundation being built, and stretching a rope between them to make it easier to navigate. Select the dimensions of the platform in accordance with the design dimensions of the furnace base; - dig a pit with a depth of about 60 cm. At the same time, expand the lower 10-15 cm in relation to the main part of the pit by 5-10 cm in each direction. After concreting, such a platform below will provide higher resistance of the entire structure to ground movements; - fill the lower expanded part of the pit with sand and compact it, spilling it with water for better compaction; - pour a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone or broken brick on top of the sand and compact it as well; - mount the formwork along the contours of the pit. To assemble it, use wooden boards and screws; - lay reinforcing mesh in the pit. To assemble it, it is optimal to use steel rods with a diameter of 1-1.2 cm. The rods are tied into a mesh with 15x15 cm cells. At intersections, the reinforcement is fastened with knitting wire or special modern fasteners, which is more convenient. An approximately 5-centimeter gap is maintained between the walls of the pit and the reinforcing mesh. A similar gap must be maintained between the bottom of the pit and the reinforcing mesh. The most convenient way to do this is with the help of special clamps-stands; - pour into the pit a concrete solution prepared from 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of clean sand, 4-5 shares of crushed stone and water in an amount corresponding to approximately half the mass of cement. Concrete is poured in a uniform layer to such a height that the pouring does not reach the ground surface on the site by approximately 150 mm. Be sure to level the “top” of the fill; - let the filling sit for 3-5 days (preferably 7-10) to gain strength and dismantle the formwork. Fill the resulting voids with compacted fine gravel; - cover the frozen concrete area with molten bitumen and lay a layer of roofing felt on top, carefully leveling it and pressing it against the binder. Then repeat the procedure again. The resulting two-layer waterproofing will provide reliable protection of the brick kiln from ground moisture. The previously mentioned 15-centimeter gap between the upper edge of the foundation and the ground surface will be leveled using a starting continuous row of bricks. |
| Detailed recommendations for carrying out this stage were given earlier. |
| The laying of the sauna stove is carried out in accordance with a previously prepared order - the main component of the design of the unit in question. The step-by-step procedure for constructing a brick kiln will be discussed further in the corresponding section. The arrangement of additional elements (in this case, a chimney, since the water tank will be proposed to be built-in) depends on the characteristics of a particular project and is considered individually in each case. |
| A fully lined oven cannot be immediately put into permanent operation: the device must be given time to dry. During the drying period, the doors and windows in the room should be open - the oven will dry faster. 4-5 days after completing the laying of the stove, you can start heating it with small wood chips for a maximum of 10-15 minutes daily. The combustion is carried out once a day. Protruding condensation indicates that the unit has not yet completely dried. |
| At the request of the owner, finishing can be done. There are quite a lot of options. The most popular are the following: - tiling (clinker, majolica, terracotta or marble). One of the most popular options. It is characterized by relatively low cost and ease of implementation; - brick cladding; - stone finishing. Porcelain tiles, granite, marble or coil tiles work well; - plastering. A truly Russian method, which is also the most elementary and budget-friendly; - tiling. A labor-intensive finishing method that allows you to obtain truly unique design compositions. |
Video - Construction of a sauna stove
Sauna stove project: step-by-step order
As an example, we will consider the procedure for constructing a stove equipped with a built-in water tank. The dimensions of the structure at the base are quite impressive - 1020x1290 mm (corresponding to a laying of 4x5 bricks), height - 2100 mm. If desired, the owner can change the dimensions in accordance with the conditions and characteristics of the steam room being equipped. The design image of the structure under construction is presented below.
A stove with the specified design dimensions will make it possible to provide a space of up to 10-14 m2 with temperature readings of about 45-50 degrees during washing and up to 100 degrees and higher during steaming. One firebox of such a stove will be enough for up to 10-12 visitors to comfortably take a steam bath and thoroughly wash themselves. The volume of the built-in tank (visible on the right side in the diagram above) is about 180 liters.
To improve the quality of heating and place stones above the fuel chamber of the furnace, pipes in the amount of 6 pieces (visible next to the water tank) with a diameter of 50 mm are laid. The length of the pipes to be laid specifically for this project is 1050 mm. The installed pipes become very hot during the operation of the furnace and continue to transmit thermal energy for some time even after the combustion is completed.
Above the stones there is a double door. Through the opening it closes, water flows onto the laid cobblestones, resulting in the formation of steam.
Let's proceed directly to studying the design order.
Table. Arranging a brick sauna stove
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| As noted, it is made solid and does not have any significant features. The diagram for laying the bricks itself is shown in the image. |
| At this stage, the formation of the ash chamber begins (dimensions and location are shown in the image) and the corresponding door is installed (highlighted in red in the diagram). Important! The dimensions of the hole intended for installing the door must be 5 mm larger than the dimensions of the mounted frame on each side. Securing this, as well as other doors in the oven, is done as follows: - an asbestos cord is inserted into the prepared hole and covered with masonry mortar. A cord with a diameter of 0.5 cm will be sufficient; - on 4 sides the door frame is equipped with lobes - wire, pre-twisted from 3-4 rods 10-12 cm long. 10-centimeter pieces of wire with a diameter of about 0.5 cm are attached to the ends; - the prepared structure is inserted into the hole along the masonry and fixed with mortar. The wire embedded in the masonry ensures reliable and high-quality fixation of the door. |
| The laying of the ash chamber continues. |
| The base of the firebox is made of refractory brick (yellow in the diagram) and 2 grates are installed. The gratings are installed in grooves specially cut for this purpose. |
| The formation of the fuel chamber itself begins. The chamber is completely lined with refractory bricks. |
| The fuel chamber door is installed. |
| Laying of the fuel chamber continues. |
| The actions are similar to the 7th row. |
| The combustion chamber door is closed. |
| Quarters of refractory bricks are laid at each side wall. Openings are formed between the bricks, the dimensions of which should allow the installation of the previously mentioned pipes. At the same stage, in the places indicated in the diagram, a place is prepared for installing a water tank. |
| On the same row, the previously mentioned pipes are laid in the spaces between the quarters of the refractory brick. The easiest way to seal holes around pipes is with basalt cardboard. |
| Also on the 10th row, a water tank is installed. |
| In this and the following images, the water tank is not shown to make the masonry features easier to see, although the tank should be present. The previously laid pipes are covered with ordinary (not fireclay) bricks. |
| The furnace mass rises higher. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| Similar to the previous one. The water tank is visible in this image. The allocated space above the pipes is filled with cobblestones. |
| 2 strips of steel are laid above the water tank (the placement and dimensional relationship can be assessed in the diagram) so that it can be covered with brick. |
| The water tank is closed. The designated space is left free. In the future, water will flow onto the cobblestones through this opening. |
| The construction of the furnace array continues, similar to the previous row. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| The laying is carried out similarly to the previous row. The diagram is shown with a door installed for the opening through which water will flow. In general, the installation of this door had to be done earlier - when laying the row indicated by red lines. The door was not shown in the diagram so that the principle of masonry could be better understood. To cover the door, 2 steel strips are laid on top - the technique is already familiar to you from the previous stages of the work. |
| The door is blocked. Preparations begin to cover the furnace. The space to be covered is quite large. To successfully cope with this stage of work, it will be necessary to lay 2 steel strips. The thickness of the strips is quite large - about 1 cm. To lay them, recesses are cut out in the bricks (marked in the diagram). It is advisable to place basalt cardboard spacers under the strips. |
| The mentioned strips are laid with 1-2 mm gaps (marked in the diagram), thanks to which the thermal expansion of the metal will be compensated during operation of the furnace. |
| The furnace is being closed. At this stage, you need to leave a hole for installing the chimney pipe (marked in the image). A seat is made on the hole for installing a smoke damper, which is also visible in the diagram. |
| At the same stage, the smoke damper is installed. |
| The installation of the furnace ceiling continues. |
| Similar to the previous one. |
| The formation of the smoke exhaust pipe begins. |
| The formation of the pipe continues. Next, the masonry is carried out in a similar sequence until the pipe reaches the design height (determined individually, in accordance with the characteristics of a particular room). |
The masonry is complete. The principle of operation of such a furnace is extremely simple: when fuel burns, hot gases heat the walls of the furnace and a water boiler installed inside the structure, pass through laid pipes and a stone backfill placed on top of them, and then go into the smoke exhaust pipe.
Video – Brick sauna stoves projects
What a bathhouse should be like depends mainly on the stove in it. According to tradition, a Russian bathhouse should have a brick stove, which replaced the more ancient stone one. And many owners of baths under construction or built a long time ago are trying to install one of these - after all, this is a thing that has been tested for centuries. But how to assess the scale of the effort, time and finances associated with the construction of a brick stove for a bathhouse?
We want to help you - read and consider whether you can handle it yourself or still look for a professional, or is it easier to abandon this idea in favor of a brick-lined metal stove, which, if handled skillfully, can produce the same conditions as a brick one ?
Listen to the article
Brick sauna stoves: history
The historical moment is also important: understanding how the Russian bathhouse develops can point to the most significant things in it.
The first stoves were simply made of stone, they didn’t even put it on the mortar - pile of stones over a fire, roughly speaking. AND there was no pipe- the smoke spread throughout the hut (yes, the bathhouse was made right in the hut, no outbuildings, it was also heated) and flowed out of the windows and doors. Until the 15th century, such baths were the most common in Rus'.
Brick sauna stove
The first innovation was, after all, a pipe, but made made of wood, it often became the cause of fire (the reason is simple - wood ignites at a temperature lower than that of the furnace gases at the outlet of the furnace).
Next they invented something between a “white” and a “black” stove - for this they placed something like hoods(a cap on top of which there was a chimney pipe). But this is not a brick stove yet.
The revolution, as one would expect, was carried out by Peter I - firstly, he exported a dozen stoves from Holland along with the craftsmen, secondly, he banned the construction of stoves in the capitals that were heated “black”. But in the end it turned out the same as with the potatoes - the brick one took root and became like family.
We hope you noticed the main thing - Russian baths were originally heated by batch stoves with flow-through heaters, which lacked only stone insulation for the hearth and a chimney pipe. And when the brick one arrived, it solved all these problems at once. Features of choosing sauna stoves are presented in.
Advantages and disadvantages
Being progress for their time, brick stoves for baths, of course, had significant advantages, but this does not mean that they were completely devoid of disadvantages.
Among the latter - spalling of mortar. This is an inevitability that can only be cured jointing And filling the seams with new mortar. The owner needs to constantly monitor the condition of his stove.
Skillful unhurried ignition will get rid of cracks on the chimney, which are a consequence of sudden temperature changes in winter.
Another concern for the owner will be monitoring the amount of soot in the chimney. But similar responsibilities cannot be avoided by the owner of an iron stove. There is one “but”: iron ones have practically no smoke circulation, and if there is, it is purely nominal. And brick ones are often made with one form or another smoke circulation. And it also needs to be cleaned. For this purpose, special cleaning doors are provided.
However main disadvantage the majority still does not count what is listed, but the period of time that passes between the start of kindling and the start of bathing procedures. After all 4-5 hours is the average time required to prepare a sauna. So for day visitors this may not be an option.
Firewood consumption should also be taken into account. In winter, you will have to spend about four dozen firewood for one heating, in summer – three. Some clients prefer to choose so as not to have to worry about calculating and purchasing fuel.
By the way! Just in case, we remind you that a freshly built stove must first be dried - this is done by repeated fires with a small amount of firewood. That is, immediately the new stove is not heated at full capacity- it will deteriorate from this, it will crack. First, moisture is removed from the entire massif.
As for advantages, then they are obvious: the comfortable atmosphere of a Russian bath is a low temperature (60 degrees) and high humidity created by steam obtained from a superheated closed heater. Brick sauna stoves do the best job of maintaining the desired temperature inside and outside the stove.
Types of brick stoves for baths
Interesting topic, extensive. There are a lot of structures that form different brick stoves for baths. Some are simpler, others are more complex. Some provide water heating registers, in others – space for tank. Eat bell-shaped ovens and channel, there are more familiar types heaters - solid and flow-through. In addition to this, there are different smoke circulation systems for channel stoves – vertical and horizontal.
So, it is clear that registers and tanks are additional devices, but first we need to understand the necessary elements. These include:
- blower;
- grate;
- firebox;
- heater;
- smoke circulation.
The first major division can be made according to heaters. There are stones in some ovens separated from the fire only by a grate, which does not in any way prevent their contact; in others, it is equipped for stones sealed box, the bottom of which separates stones and flames, acting as an intermediary in the transfer of heat.
The first heater is called " flow-through" This is the heiress of “black-style” stoves. Today they are called "batch ovens". In fact, how can you pour water into such a heater without filling the fire? Impossible. Therefore, you have to wait until the wood burns out completely. Then you can open the door and add water to get steam.
Plus flow heater is that the stones heat up faster and to a higher temperature. Minus- this has a bad effect on their lifespan in the heater.
Closed or blind heater allows pour water directly while firing the stove, which makes it popular. Because these are independent processes. For such convenience, you have to pay in that the stones heat up more slowly, not as hot as in a flow-through, but still their temperature is enough to produce good steam.
Another way to divide ovens is this: they are channel and bell-type. Of the latter, it became widely known Kuznetsov furnace. The difference between them is what exactly is the “engine” of combustion products inside the furnace: the channel furnace operates exclusively on draft. And in the bell chamber, combustion products move freely, but at the same time, new arrivals crowd out their predecessors along the passages prepared for them by the engineer.
On a note! There are a lot of varieties of both channel and bell-type furnaces. The final choice of the appropriate option for your case usually depends on the stove maker, or more precisely, on how many different stoves he has built during his life.
Simple brick stove for a bath
But simplicity is a relative concept. If you have no experience, any will be difficult, but if you have it, any will be within your power.
A simple brick stove for a bath with a closed heater
Based on the number of details and stages, including preparatory ones, then in our opinion the simplest would be the same metal stove with a brick lining- it’s not a fact that it will need a strong foundation, the casing is easy to build yourself, masonry errors will not be so critical, and the result will please you with both the quality of heat and steam. So think carefully about what you are willing to do.
How to stay safe
Standard fire safety regulations require that a firebox be placed in front of the firebox. at least half a meter in length, and the distance to the nearest wall was from the firebox at least one and a half meters.
Brick stove for a Russian bath. There should be a pre-furnace sheet in front of the firebox (marked with an arrow)
Brick sauna stove should not be connected to the wall. A gap should be left between them. He is needed first of all due to thermal expansion of the oven– with a rigid connection, cracks may appear. And so its surface does not heat up to the combustion temperature of wood.
However, a brick sauna stove is still a fire hazard. It's all about cracks that appear over time both in the stove itself and in the chimney, and can cause sparks to be released. The only way to fight is prevention. The crumbling seams are cleaned and sealed with new mortar.
Brick sauna stoves: sequence of work
As we promised, you can estimate your capabilities by getting acquainted with the stages of constructing a stove in a brick bathhouse.
Foundation
A brick stove in a bathhouse must have a foundation. No options: The stove in a brick bathhouse will have to be placed on a separate foundation. Many believe that the matter can be avoided shallow foundation, however, this is not always the case. You need to focus on what you did for the bathhouse as a whole. After all, everything greatly depends on the bearing capacity of the soil. Weighing several tons, the brick mass will exert significant pressure on the ground, and it usually sags unevenly, which causes distortion and fracture of the structure - a wall or a stove.
Advice! Read in the appropriate section of the site. There you will find not only theory, but also numerous practical recommendations for building a suitable foundation.
Main - Do not forget that you cannot combine the foundations of a bathhouse and a stove into a single structure. It is customary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm between them.
Brick stove for a bath: solution
IMPORTANT! No cement is placed in the mortar for stove masonry, this must be remembered.
Two ingredients remain: clay and sand. And both can be different in composition or particle size. Sand is sifted through 1.5 mm sieve. As for clay, there are two options: either dig it up on your own site, or buy a bag in a store. In the first case you have to dig deeper than half a meter, because it is from this mark that what may be useful to you begins.
Rule! It is recommended to use the same type of clay for the mortar as in the brick, that is, red or fireclay. The reason is that homogeneous materials have the same thermal expansion, and this is good under conditions of strong heating - they expanded equally, contracted equally, no stress or deformation.
For masonry, the most important clay parameter is: fat she or skinny. These are quite conventional names. You can only understand what you are dealing with by drying a lump of clay and looking at the result. Skinny clay tends to crumble when it dries. Oily skin behaves differently: visually the lump becomes smaller in size and cracks appear on it.
Note! When mixed with sand, the fat content of the clay changes, and sand reduces it. That is why there is no exact proportion; it is the result of selecting specific ingredients. The selection is carried out in the form of the following experiment: make several samples of mixtures of clay and sand, mark the shares and let them dry. If a dried cake crumbles, there is too much sand; if it cracks, there is too much clay. Optima is a homogeneous, uncracked or crumbled specimen.
Before mixing, the sand is not only sifted through a fine sieve, but also washed.
By the way! Some solution recipes contain... table salt in small quantities.
The brick itself - brands, types
When planning a brick bathhouse, the choice of the most basic building material plays an important role. We recommend watching a video in which a stove maker tells you what you can find on sale and what he thinks is better.
Video
Let us add on our own that a good selection criterion is sound when hitting a brick. There are no defects if the sound is ringing and metallic. Any deafness is a sign of cracks.
We already mentioned red fireproof and fireclay bricks. In addition to them, they are suitable for ovens clinker and alumina heat-resistant. Fireclay is the most expensive. It is used only for laying out the furnace core of the furnace. Others listed are used for laying its walls.
Brand(number) stands for density. Stove makers use from 150 to 250. The higher the density, the higher the heat capacity, the longer you wait for the steam room to heat up.
Frost resistance material does not matter indoors, but it is worth paying attention to when you make a chimney.
Uniform color- a good sign. Heterogeneous talks about uneven firing and, as a result, different strength of brick sections.
Geometry– also not the last criterion when choosing. It’s easier to work with the right one.
Brick sauna stove: are there any alternatives?
Finally, let's look at what can replace a brick stove in a bathhouse.
Stone stove for a bath
We will not advise you to build the walls of the furnace from real stone, but Covering an iron stove with slabs of some nice stone is not a bad idea. Such a stove will cost less than a brick stove, but not that much cheaper. An advantage can be considered that it will take up less space and will be easier to maintain. In essence, this is an alternative to a brick casing, which, by the way, is also quite good for creating a suitable stove for a Russian bath.
Stone stove for a bath
Stone casings are sold for a variety of stove models, and if we are talking about homemade products, you can always make a casing to order.
Metal stove + brick pipe
We somehow avoided in this article the question of what kind of chimney should be. It is clear that most people will not put an ordinary sandwich over a brick oven (although there are some). Such a stove is supposed to brick chimney, with fluff and proper cutting of the ceilings.
However heavy and durable a brick chimney can also be placed on a regular metal one bake, in particular, which is also not bad. More precisely, connect to a brick pipe. In other words, the chimney is a different story. Look at the photo to see what its implementation could be like in the above-mentioned combination:
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So, the decision is yours - there are no ideal stoves in nature, but there are those that suit us. We wish you to find just the right one to solve certain problems.
Where can I buy
You can find and purchase a stove by checking out the assortment on our website.
In contact with
The network is full of materials that suggest, without any preliminary planning, disassembling the elements and their connection in a system called a “sauna stove,” to immediately begin laying it. This only means that the people who wrote are extremely far from practice, and their advice contains a mixture of useful information, heresy and silence on essential issues.
We will take a different route: without directly touching on the issue of independent masonry, we will tell you what professional stove makers know about.
Brick stove for a bath
Let's start with the fact that amateurs choose a brick heater for a bath specifically Russian steam room, because . There is a lot on our website, so for now it’s enough to say that a closed heater is one of the important conditions, working together:
- brickwork;
- a container for stones, closed on all sides, placed inside the oven;
- controlled convection (the ability to almost completely block air flows).
However, in the baths you can also find open heaters. This is not entirely “according to the rules,” but this option is not a remake. Quicker, this is an echo or descendant of “black-style” sauna stoves.
The main problem with an open heater is that it freely gives off heat to the surrounding air, not allowing this process to be regulated. In addition, the top row of stones never heats up to the temperature of producing light steam, so in cases of open heaters it is necessary to “extract” it using steam gun, supplying water to the most heated stones at the bottom of the laying.
We will not consider an option that is less consistent with our concept of a Russian bath, so we will immediately move on to the “proper stove”:
With closed heater
Brick deserves special consideration. The designs of brick stoves are quite diverse, in particular, they can be inherited from conventional heating stoves smoke circulation system, which allows you to significantly reduce the temperature of the furnace gases escaping into the chimney pipe, accumulating heat in the furnace mass.
However, placing a stone filling inside a brick stove-heater makes it possible to no less effectively remove heat from the furnace gases passing through it or flowing around it (depending on the design).
Thus, the simplest option for implementing a brick stove for a bath with a closed heater is direct-flow stove without smoke circulation. Which is not without its advantages, because it saves the owner from the need for more complex cleaning than in this case.
The stove consists of a firebox, above which there is a stone backfill in a flow-through heater, and a chimney. The density and mass of the backfill are such that the furnace gases lose not only heat, but also sparks, and only smoke goes into the chimney.
IMPORTANT! It is recommended to place stones in such a stove at the rate of 15 kg per cubic meter of steam room, but this is the minimum value. Optimal – 40-50 kg. At the same time, you don’t need to worry about volume - the stones are heavy, they have a high density (1600-1800 kg/cube), so they don’t take up much space.
It also wouldn't hurt lining. Moreover, it is advisable to cover not only the inside of the firebox with fireclay bricks, but also the heater. The main advantage of the lining is increasing the service life of the furnace.
Another means for the same thing is metal strips and corners, which tighten the lining, and, if desired, the stove itself from the outside.
As for choosing the shape of the stove base, it can be square or rectangular. Based on the geometry of the brick, a rectangular shape will be better, because then you won’t have to cut the brick. However, there are also square designs where you don’t have to cut almost anything.
With or without a blower?
Now about the blower. If a brick stove is being built for a bathhouse, is there a need for a vent in it? Let's first explain what it is blower. This is a kind of channel that brings air under grate, and through it - into the firebox, supplying the fuel with the oxygen necessary for its combustion. A door is used to regulate the intensity of air flow (draft).
Traction exists when there are two holes - at the bottom of the stove and at the top of the chimney. That's why their sizes are related to each other. In addition, there is a certain relationship between the volume of the firebox and the draft - if the draft is too strong, the wood will burn quickly and at a higher temperature.
When installing a brick stove for a bathhouse, you can refuse the blower and put the deaf under. This doesn't mean you won't have any cravings at all. It will be due to the slightly open fire door. In principle, the stove will work, but the dimensions of the combustion door are large enough to allow fine adjustment of the air supply. At the same time, the efficiency of the stove becomes lower than it could be.
But this is not the only argument against a blind hearth. It will be a big punishment for the owners danger of burning embers falling out when the door is open, as well as the need frequent use of a poker, because firewood never burns out completely. Upon completion of the combustion process, you will need more pull out the firebrands and immediately simmer them in a bucket of water.
If we talk about the sufficient dimensions of the grate and the cross-section of the chimney pipe, then both can be approximately equal area of one standard brick. This is enough for normal traction.
As for water tanks, when making it yourself, it is not recommended to use materials such as black And Cink Steel. Stop choosing instead. either tinned copper or stainless steel.
What do stove makers say about brick? They say that there is no alternative nowadays red, full-bodied, produced by wet pressing. Of course - with the correct geometry, without changes in color, indicating non-uniform firing. And also loud, like metal, sounding when you hit it. Under-burning is manifested by pallor of color, and overburntness can only be seen at the break - there will be blue-black areas.
As for the pipe, from the moment it passes the roof, it is better to cover it clinker bricks, but you also need to be able to choose it. The reason is increased frost resistance - 70 or more cycles.
Attention! Clinker is not suitable for laying the stove itself, because it has weak adhesion to the mortar - it does not take water.
Fireclay brick used only for construction fuel core, which can also be considered as the lining of the firebox. In the case we described, the lining was also made for the heater.
Important! Red brick is placed on a regular mortar of clay and sand, and fireclay brick is placed on a mixture of fireclay with fireclay chips. Pipe above roof level - mortar without clay, cement-sand or cement, sand, lime.
For one part clay is taken from 1 to 6 parts sand, but here it all depends on the fat content of the clay itself; the more it crumbles when drying, the less sand it needs. Oily clay It doesn't crumble, it cracks. Normal solution It doesn’t crack, and if it crumbles, it’s only along the edges. Usually, to calculate the proportion, samples are made with different proportions of sand and dried.
Advice! If possible, take it quarry or mountain sand- he is the best.
The bricks are counted simply: according to the masonry drawings, and the height of one row with mortar is 7 cm. When lining a pipe, the number of bricks in a row is also multiplied by the number of rows in height, plus 50 pieces for fluff (fire expansion) and 70 for the head and otter. All that remains is to calculate the number of cubic meters, but this is also simple: we proceed from the fact that there are 420 bricks in one cube. When purchasing, you should add another 10% on top of the amount received.
Brick stoves with heater and tank
A tank is not an indispensable attribute of a sauna stove, but for those who have problems with hot water, it becomes a very relevant addition.
You just need to take into account the following things: the stones in the heater must warm up degrees up to 300, so that you can get light steam from them. And the water is higher 100 degrees It just can't get warm. What does it mean? What if we place the tank side by side with the heater, the water will significantly cool the stones and interfere with achieving the desired temperature.
And here we have two options: either design the stove so that the heater and the tank do not touch at all, or let the stones heat up first, and place the tank above them next to the pipe. There is also a third option: heat the water using a heat exchanger coil (discussed separately), which is located inside the firebox, heating the water in an external tank by natural or forced convection.
Brick heater for a bath, options for placing a water tank
It is clear that When the tank is located on the side, it is more convenient to fill and empty it, if there is no cold water supply network, that is, manually, but this will have to be done more than once or twice while the oven is heating, because the water will boil quickly.
For those who try to “solve the problem” by will increase the tank volume, we have to say that the idea is not so good - the water takes heat away from the stove, and the more it is, the more you will reduce the efficiency of the stove. Moreover, even having reached the boiling point, it will still take away heat, because the temperature inside is much higher.
The only thing that can be suggested in this situation is to design in which the tank will be as close as possible to the fire door. This way you can reduce the heat a little.
If you choose over the heater, then only if there is cold water supply. Because you'll get tired of carrying water upstairs.
However, she really good from the point of view of increasing efficiency– the water will take heat away from the pipe and from the top of the heater.
On a note! Water can be supplied to the tank under pressure, which forces you to take care of two things: you will need fuse (burst valve), which relieves excess pressure, and will also need screeds inside the tank.
But if pressure occurs only when water is supplied to the tank, then you can forget about the above. But you may need overflow pipe.
The tank should not be placed on bare brick. Pros advise taking a sheet of asbestos or basalt cardboard and soaking it in a clay solution. Then you place the soaked sheet on the bricks, and place the tank on top. On top of the tank is another sheet of the same type. On it - foil and some kind of non-flammable thermal insulator - mineral wool, expanded clay, foam glass...
By the way! When the fuel core on which the tank will be installed has already been laid out, there is no need to rush to install it. We have to wait Couple of weeks, which the masonry needs to dry sufficiently. Only after this can the tank be placed on asbestos or cardboard, as mentioned above.
If the information we provide is not enough, we recommend reading a book written by a stove maker - Polyakov I.S. “Stoves, fireplaces, sauna heaters, barbecues.” There, in addition to practical advice, you will also find information about the technology and stages of laying different stoves.
Despite the fact that a brick oven takes longer to warm up, it is able to provide more uniform heating of the steam room and the absence of “cold zones”. Experienced steamers claim that it is comfortable to be in such a room even at high temperatures.
Brick kilns are quite complex devices, and their laying requires special skills. You can do it yourself, but only if you strictly follow the laying scheme (order) and know certain subtleties.
Do you need a foundation?
Such a structure will have significant weight, so a solid foundation must be built before installing it. Some experts argue that if the building is built on a solid foundation, a separate construction for the furnace is not required. However, in swampy areas or in northern regions, where due to temperature changes even carefully compacted soil will “play”, it is better to provide separate foundation.It is undesirable to cut load-bearing beams and logs for its construction, rafters and floor beams for the removal of the chimney, so it is better to choose a place for the stove before the construction of the building begins.
Important! Such a foundation should not be tied to the main one, since due to the large temperature difference when heated, the expansion coefficient will be too large. The distance between the main and furnace foundations should be at least half a meter.
Foundation for a sauna stove
Construction of the foundation for the furnace
Pit depth is determined based on the properties of the soil: with high density, 20-50 cm is enough, in loose soils it goes deeper by 50-100 cm. Its width should be a brick larger than the base of the stove. Before laying begins, sand is poured onto the bottom, which is thoroughly poured with water to compact it, then crushed stone or broken brick is laid and compacted tightly.Important! The cement-sand mortar completely hardens and gains strength for at least a week, so you should not build a heavy stove until it is completely dry.
The surface of the foundation should not reach the floor level to the height of two bricks. 2 layers are placed on the finished base waterproofing: roofing felt impregnated with tar mastic or roofing felt treated with bitumen solution. The gaps between the foundation and the floor are filled with sand and compacted.
The foundation can also be made of solid brick or rubble (large building stone of irregular shape), which are laid on a base filled with cement mortar. The penultimate row of the brick foundation is also covered with a layer of waterproofing.
Laying the foundation
Start of masonry
What is order?
In order call a detailed masonry diagram indicating the order of placement of bricks in each row. For work, you should choose the order of the stove corresponding to the size of the steam room. For example, if the heater is located above the firebox, to ensure maximum heating, the firebox is made at least 0.5 m. For a steam room volume of up to 12 square meters. m and a 40 liter water tank, the size of the heater with dry steam will be 0.77 × 0.5 m. The height of the firebox should be about 0.5 m.In the absence of proper experience, it is better not to change the scheme. If the room is non-standard, and any changes are still required, it is better to show the adjusted order to an experienced specialist.
The masonry diagram in any drawings always starts from the zero row. It is necessary to bring the foundation to the floor level. It is not difficult to determine the height of the future structure: in the diagram, each division is 10 cm and is equal to the average height of the brick.
The two pictures below show an example of a brick oven with a water tank and its arrangement. The diagram shows that the bricks are laid in different ways: with a spoon (on their side) or with a bed (the wide part) down.
Stove-heater with tank
Arrangement of a heater with a tank located at the top
Sand-clay solution
Cement does not tolerate high temperatures well, so it is not used for ovens. Masonry is made using a solution of clay, mined at a sufficient depth without impurities of earth and other foreign inclusions, and sand.
Start of masonry
Before starting work, the clay should stand in water for several days and soften. Before combining with sand, it is thoroughly mixed with water to the consistency of thick, thick sour cream. The remaining lumps can be broken up using a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment.
To prevent pebbles and small stones from getting into the narrow seams, the sand is carefully sifted. To lay refractory bricks, clay and sand are mixed in proportion 1:2. To prevent the solution from drying out, the batch is prepared in small portions. The solution should be slightly rough, as elastic as possible and should lie without tears.
But the fat content of clay varies, and the fatter it is, the more sand should be in the solution. That is why experienced stove makers check the viscosity by shaking it from a stick or trowel.
The normal thickness of the layer remaining after shaking is 2 mm. If it is less, clay is added. If the consistency of the solution resembles plasticine, and after shaking, more than 3 mm of solution remains, more sand should be added to the mixture.
Brick selection
If you plan to fire with coal or gas, high-quality refractory bricks with frost resistance of up to 25 cycles are used for the work. For a wood-burning stove, it is better to use its refractory (Gzhel type) variety. Hollow and silicate types are not used, as they quickly collapse under the influence of high temperatures.Sometimes, in order to save money, only the firebox is laid out with refractory (clamotte) bricks, and the rest of the furnace is covered with ordinary silicate bricks. But, since their coefficient of thermal expansion is different, you should not combine them in a harness.
You can check the quality of a brick by simply tapping it with any hard object. If there is no defect, the sound will not be dull, but ringing, “metallic”. Products with visible cracks, foreign inclusions or excessive porosity should not be used. High-quality fireclay bricks have a rich yellowish (sand) tint, while unfired bricks have a pale and dull color.
Fireclay brick
Furnace laying
Before laying, to improve adhesion and prevent dehydration of the mortar, the brick is soaked in water for several minutes until bubbles are released. Fireclay bricks can only be immersed in water briefly to remove dust.The first row of bricks should be laid dry on the foundation without using a sand-clay mixture. During subsequent laying, the thickness of the mortar layer should be 3-6 mm. The layer and the bonded part of the brick are coated with the solution. At the selected place, you should move it slightly, and then, tapping with a trowel, press it tightly.
Bricklaying
To strengthen the structure, bricks are laid with offset next row by 30-50% and overlap the joint. When working, you will definitely need halves and quarters. To prevent cracks from forming, cutting It is better to do this using a grinder equipped with a diamond blade.
Laying halves and parts of bricks
In the places adjacent to the bricks, the door is insulated with asbestos, 4 strong wires or strips of galvanized sheet are screwed to it using bolts and washers, which will be laid in the seams of the masonry. To achieve density according to the size of the wire, grooves are cut in the bricks.
Door installation
Door installation
To ensure better heating, bath stones are placed on a steel or cast iron grate. The fewer there are, the drier the steam will be in the room. In a Russian bath, the weight of stones is at least 50-60, in a sauna - 30 kg.
in order to ideally select bricks in size, each row of them is first placed dry without mortar, the excess length is carefully trimmed, the bricks are numbered, and then assembled in a row already with mortar;a stove laid out unevenly will not last long, so even the slightest deviations should not be allowed: after laying each row, it is better to check the horizontal and vertical using a level; the accuracy of the angles is additionally determined using plumb lines or a corner;
In order for the grate and doors to last as long as possible, it is better to choose not steel, but more refractory cast iron;
in a wood-burning stove, the grate and door are located at the same level; when heating with coal, the grate should be 20 cm below the firebox;
when laying the grate, be sure to leave gaps for thermal expansion; To do this, if necessary, the brick is cut to the required size;
Grate installation
A small ventilation slot should be provided above the door, which will protect it from overheating, or the bricks should be cut in this place with a wedge;
to ensure better air flow and complete combustion of fuel, grate bars are laid only along the blower channel;
halves and quarters are best used in the top rows;
To prevent the clay from cracking over time, the oven can be reinforced with clay and a steel mesh; the fastening wire for it is already provided in the masonry.
Construction of pipes and chimneys
Iron chimneys have a serious drawback: when temperature changes, condensation forms on them, which “attracts” soot, so it is better to build them from brick.Important! Only whole bricks are placed in the chimney. Due to the risk of them falling out, the use of halves and cracked parts is unacceptable. The chimney wall must be perfectly flat. Otherwise, lumps of soot will accumulate in the corners, and the shaft will quickly become clogged. It is advisable to round off the protrusions along the entire smoke path.
When installing a chimney, several rules must be followed:
Hailom called the system of passages connecting the chamber with fuel and the chimney; the size of its lower part depends on the width of the firebox and on average is 3/4 of a brick; its cross-sectional area should be about 60-65% of the total area of the chimney;
all places where smoke passes should be immediately cleaned and the remaining solution should be completely removed;
it is unacceptable to narrow the chimney channel - it must be the same along its entire length; in addition, its cross-section cannot be less than the cross-section of the hail, and its total length from the edge of the pipe to the grate is at least 5 m;
Chimney laying
When laying a chimney and firebox, it is better to place the bricks with the most burned side facing the fire and smoke;
if the chimney is too short the smoke will not have time to cool down, and the heat will simply fly away into the chimney;
to protect against fire where it passes through the ceiling, the pipe is additionally lined with bricks and wrapped in heat-resistant material;
Finishing the junction of the pipe and the ceiling
The height of the pipe after the roof ridge must be at least 0.5 m;
so that damage can be easily determined, the pipe is whitewashed with lime mortar: in this case, the places of smoke leakage can be easily identified by traces of soot.
Test firing of the stove
It is believed that a stove that is perfectly dried before the first lighting will last longer, so it is better to leave it for a couple of weeks with the doors open until it is completely dry. If there is no rain, the pipe valve is also left open. The room itself should also be ventilated these days.Test kindling is carried out with a small amount (about 500 g) of paper. This is done in order to determine the presence of draft and remove residual moisture from the oven. The blower should be completely open at this moment. After this, the oven is left for another day.
Advice. If it's damp outside, the fire may not burn well the first time. In this case, in order to “push” the air upward, you can burn a newspaper rolled into a tube in the upper cleaning door or view.
Subsequent kindling with wood chips and a small amount of firewood should be carried out carefully. The maximum amount of fuel can be added only after several kindlings. An ideally built stove does not smoke and heats up evenly. You can determine the degree of heating by touching different parts of its surface with your hand. A brick oven should also cool evenly.
The density of the masonry and the absence of cracks are determined by burning materials that produce a lot of smoke in the smoke channel. If cracks are found through which smoke will pass, they are covered with a solution.
Smoke movement pattern