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How to prune a pear tree growing upward in the fall. Pruning pear trees at different times. What kind of pruning is there?

Electrical measurements
08.08.2023

A good pear harvest is the result of proper care, which necessarily includes regular and timely removal of unnecessary branches. Knowing the rules and features of pear pruning in the spring will help create the best conditions for the tree to grow and form fruit.

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Why is spring tree pruning necessary?

In the absence of pruning, the plant tends to expel vertical shoots and become very tall. This worsens yields and weakens the ability to resist disease and frost. Regular removal of damaged and unnecessary branchesspend, hto extend fruiting time and improve fruit growing conditions.

Main purposes of pruning:

  • formation of a strong skeletal foundation;
  • uniform distribution of branches in the crown;
  • maintaining the desired size of the branched part of the plant, convenient for maintenance and harvesting;
  • ensuring access of light and air inside the crown - if there is a lack of them, the formation and growth of buds in shaded areas may slow down and stop;
  • reducing the risk of disease and pests;
  • rejuvenation of mature and old trees, extension of the fruiting period.

The video shows the formation of the crown by bending the branches. Filmed by the channel Sam Sadovod.

Types of pruning

Pruning varies in terms of timing and the nature of the work performed; it can be grouped into three main areas:

  • formative;
  • sanitary;
  • supporting (rejuvenating).

Formative

This type is carried out mainly on seedlings and young pears. Timely and correct formative pruning determines how the tree will grow and develop. The correct distribution of skeletal and overgrowing branches contributes to the early onset of fruiting and the formation of full-fledged fruits. On mature plants, this method includes removing tops on the main branches.

Excessive growth of shoots is stopped by shortening pruning. It is done mainly for young plantings. The branched part of the tree becomes more compact and bushy.

You should first select one of several types of crowns for the pear based on growing conditions and your preferences. The most common are sparsely-tiered and cup-shaped crowns.

Sparsely tiered crown

This type of crown, common in growing fruit trees, is close to natural forms. On the trunk, the branches are located in groups (tiers) of two or three and singly.

The crown begins to form in early spring in one-year-old seedlings. On the main conductor they lay 50 cm from the surface of the earth - this is the bole zone. If you reduce it, it will be inconvenient to care for an adult tree in the future. An enlarged trunk makes the tree trunk vulnerable to frost and sunburn. Above the trunk, another 30-40 cm is measured, on which the skeletal branches of the first tier will be located, and the conductor is cut off. The cut is made over a healthy, developed bud - it will give rise to a shoot that continues the trunk. During the formation of the crown, the central shoot is left above the level of the lateral branches by 15-20 cm.

When pruning a pear tree, the cut must be done correctly, without a stump, otherwise the conductor may deviate greatly to the side during further growth. Shoots that compete with it are cut off as they appear.

Correct and incorrect pruning of a shoot above a bud

In the spring of next year, the trunk is cleared of growth. In the first tier, three strong shoots are left at intervals of 10-15 cm along the trunk. They are cut to length at approximately the same horizontal level. It is desirable that they grow evenly around the circumference with an angle of 100-120º between each other. Other side branches are pruned or temporarily bent to a position parallel to the ground. This will slow down their growth and increase the likelihood of fruiting. Branches up to 30 cm long can be left - they are more prone to fruit set than to growth.

In the third year, 50-70 cm from the lower tier, the next one is laid - two or three future skeletal branches. Repeat the same steps as when forming the first tier. When the conductor has grown excessively, it is shortened. Bent branches are not touched, and if they thicken the crown, they are shortened or cut out.

In the spring of the fourth year, after another 40 cm from the second tier, one or two shoots of the third level can be identified. After a year or two, the stem conductor is shortened to the upper lateral skeletal branch. It is undesirable to make the height of the formed crown higher than 4-4.5 m.

Formation of a sparse-tiered crown by year

Cupped crown

There are regular and improved cupped crowns. In the usual case, the main branches originate very close to each other. In the improved version, at intervals of 15-20 cm. The trunk area is made 50-60 cm in size.

In annual seedlings, the frame branches of the crown are formed from 3-4 lateral shoots. Their symmetrical distribution around the trunk is desirable. Other branches are removed, the main conductor is shortened to the upper lateral branch. Skeletal shoots are shortened: the upper ones - by 10-15 cm, the middle ones - 20-25 cm and the lower ones - 30-35 cm. Pruning to expand the crown is done on the outer bud. It is advisable to direct the upper branch to the north, this will prevent it from stretching unnecessarily.

In the second year in the spring, pruning is reduced to a minimum in order to limit the growth of excess shoots and bring the fruiting time closer. Shoots growing vertically or inside the crown, as well as those that thicken, are removed. Skeletal branches are slightly shortened if necessary. The direction of their growth can be changed by cutting the conductor above the branch directed in the desired direction. On skeletal branches, two shoots are selected to make second-order branches from them, and they are shortened. Branches that compete with conductors are removed.

In the third year, if necessary, the skeletal branches are cut back to the outer bud, expanding the crown. Branches of the second order, which are faster than the main ones in growth, are shortened. Shoots directed into the crown are cut out completely or left two buds high. In the central part of the crown, small branches with fruits are evenly driven out.

Correct angle of cutting branches

Supportive

Maintenance pruning is carried out on adult plants during March and the first ten days of April. Every year, excess growth is removed from the entire crown. Be sure to remove young shoots growing vertically. Individual branches are shortened by a third to enhance the forcing of fruit branches. To reduce the load on the plant, parts of large and old branches are removed.

Trimming the crown of an old pear tree

The main branches of the tree are shortened. They should not be left longer than 4 meters, since they will bend towards the ground under the weight of the fruit. Then thinning pruning is carried out, removing shoots that thicken or are directed into the crown. You can safely prune old thick branches that bear little fruit - their productive capabilities are depleted. It is better to replace them with new shoots.

Activities after pruning

At the end of the work, all cut branches should be removed from the tree, and it is better to burn the diseased ones as soon as possible. The cut areas are treated with garden varnish or painted over with oil paint. This prevents the penetration of infections and insect pests, reduces the loss of nutrients during sap flow. At temperatures below 8 ° C it is better to use paint - garden varnish does not adhere well to wood.

Grown in your own garden plot, they seem much tastier and sweeter. To obtain juicy fruits, it is necessary to properly care for the tree. One of the mandatory procedures should be pruning, but novice gardeners make unforgivable mistakes at this stage.

Need for pruning

The procedure is considered necessary. With its help, it is possible to solve 3 important problems at once:

  1. Form a body of culture. A dense, even trunk and strong branches allow the pear to withstand the weight of even a rich harvest until it is fully ripe, without breaking under the weight.
  2. Achieve the correct shape for the crown. This type of care should be taken up when the pear tree is still young, so that its leaves can absorb as much sunlight as possible. The accelerated process of photosynthesis will also ensure the active growth of the tree itself, helping it quickly move into the fruiting phase.
  3. Increase yield. Proper pruning allows the pear to spend energy on the formation and ripening of fruits, and not on the growth of young branches. Strong crops with branches of optimal length allow them to accommodate a larger number of tasty fruits without harming themselves.

Pros and cons of autumn pruning

Pears are, by their nature, highly cultured. She strives to rise above all her neighbors in the area.

  • Timely pruning not only allows you to keep the tree at a safe height for other crops, but also to form a crown from which it is comfortable to harvest.
  • The fight against active young shoots provokes the tree to use all its juices and strength to form fruits. As a result, pear yields and the quality of the fruits themselves increase.
  • Lack of sunlight leads to the fact that the crop begins to wither. A properly formed crown gives all the leaves the opportunity to enjoy the sun's rays.
  • Untimely pruning will make the pear forget about the fruiting function for a long time and completely engage in restoration. This can be avoided by following the rules for forming trees.

Aggressive impact on the crop immediately before the cold season can cause most or all of the pear to freeze out.

General pruning rules


How to trim?

In addition to the general rules for pruning fruit crops, in the fall there is also a technique for the process itself. It is aimed at protecting the pear from cold, ice, and snow. It can freeze or break due to the presence of dry branches, diseased ones, growing at an angle of 90°.


young tree

Pruning begins only from the second year of the tree’s life. Cutting is carried out twice a year to increase the number of fruit branches and form the correct shape of the crown.

Important! Cutting young pears too short leads to late fruiting. All annual growth is allowed to be shortened only by a quarter.

Columnar pear

It does not have a highly branched crown. Starting from the moment of planting, the side branches are plucked off from the seedling. When the trunk is formed, no more than 3 side branches begin to be left annually. It is important to ensure the correct shape of the tree. As soon as the side branches reach the desired length, they are also shortened.

The main conductor is shortened no earlier than after 5 years. The very next year the owner will notice increased growth of side shoots. They are thinned out only when necessary (when the quality and quantity of fruits has noticeably decreased).


Anti-aging pruning

There is no urgent need to uproot an old pear tree. Perhaps a rejuvenating haircut will help him.

A tree can become a client for such a procedure if:

  • continues to bear fruit, although the quantity of fruits and their quality leaves much to be desired.
  • became too high due to lack of proper care.
  • has many dry or disease- and insect-damaged areas.

The conductor of such trees is cut down mercilessly, then all obstacles to young healthy branches are eliminated. Be sure to get rid of dried or frozen branches.

Only crops older than 10 years are subject to rejuvenation.

  1. In the first autumn, pruning of pear trees is prohibited.. The tree needs to develop a good root system in order to successfully survive the winter. Removing branches will force the crop to spend energy recovering from the stress of shortening the branches. Even if she survives the winter, she will remain weak.
  2. A large pruning area is unacceptable in one season. The tree will not be able to transform instantly. All work should be spread over several seasons.
  3. The branch is pruned in 2 stages. First from the bottom to avoid lifting the bark.
  4. Remaining stumps or deep cuts require long healing. Heavy pruning requires feeding the crop with additional nutrients.
  5. All pear wounds are subject to mandatory treatment after completion of work.. Garden var can be successfully replaced by any natural paint.
  6. A pruner, even with a very sharp blade, puts the tree in a state of stress.. Experienced gardeners consider the method using a self-cutting mechanism to be more humane. The branch to be removed is tied with dense flexible wire. The tree's growth over 2 years will result in the wire being able to cut the branch without human intervention.
  7. It is recommended to burn all cut branches to prevent various diseases from attacking the pear or other crops in the garden. If it is impossible to destroy the cuttings by fire, they are taken far outside the garden and treated with special compounds.

An important period begins for all summer residents and gardeners. One of the priority jobs in the garden at this time is pruning the pear; in the spring, for such a crop, it is most advisable to do this. The main goal of the procedure is to increase productivity and obtain good growth.

Pear is valued for its unique taste, honey-like aroma and dietary qualities. It contains many unique biologically active compounds, microelements, and vitamins that have a positive effect on our body.

Types of pruning, methods, stages

There are several types of pear pruning and their use depends on the expected result:

  • The goal of shaping is to create the necessary shape, a strong skeleton with minimal effort required for restoration. The procedure is carried out in the spring
  • Rejuvenating - used on trees to renew the old crown into a young, productive one. It is carried out two to three years in advance and only in the spring.
  • Sanitary pruning is used when it is necessary to clean the crown and remove broken, damaged, and diseased branches. It is also used to free the center of the tree from excessive thickening. Conducted at any time of the year except winter

There are two ways to trim:

  • Thinning is the process of removing useless, crown-thickening, intertwining branches by cutting out. Thanks to which the plant is better illuminated, which increases the quality and quantity of fruits
  • Shortening shoots is cutting off one third or half of their length. The intake promotes active lateral branching from skeletal branches, good growth of young animals, and bud formation

Pruning is often done in stages. For the first time in March, sanitary cleaning is carried out with the removal of diseased, frostbitten, and dry branches. The second time, after about three weeks (possibly before the beginning of April), the crown is formed.

It is important to know that pruning a pear and an apple tree differs in that for the first, it should be a more gentle process, due to the slow development and growth of the crop. Every year, the rate of appearance of new shoots in pear trees decreases, so the main pruning and formation of the required density of the tree is carried out every three years.

Timing of pruning

Most gardeners know that this procedure begins at the end of winter and ends in the spring. During the period when the frosts have gone and the growing season has not entered the active phase. The tree is in a dormant stage and sap flow does not circulate with great force.

For pears, pruning in spring is the most appropriate time. The development of the plant is regulated by the removal of dry, frozen, weak branches.

As a result, the illumination of the entire crown improves, fruiting and fruit quality increase. This event helps the tree to gain the necessary growth and the trunk to become stronger in order to support the large weight of the crop. At the same time, while maintaining productivity, the plant grows wood and begins to bear fruit on time.

It is also necessary to keep in mind that the result of the event will depend on the varietal characteristics of the crop.

In summer, the pear tree does not need pruning, and doing this, according to some gardeners, is not advisable. Branches with foliage that is very useful for the tree should not be removed. In the summer, nutrients accumulate in it that should not be taken from the plant.

In autumn, sanitary pruning is carried out more often. It must be remembered that pear cuts are very sensitive to cold. The plant, having devoted all its strength to fruiting, is not able to heal the wounds before the arrival of frost. It is better to carry out the procedure from August to September, and only if these are early and middle varieties, which are long-lived and more resistant to external factors. Timely and correct pruning of such varieties gives good yields.

Proper pruning

In order not to harm the tree, spring pruning of pears should be carried out according to the following rules:

  • The tool (secateurs, etc.) is used with a well-sharpened, disinfected blade. Use a hacksaw or garden saw to cut down large branches.
  • A suitable optimal ambient temperature is not lower than five degrees Celsius, both day and night. The movement of juice in the shoots has already begun
  • Pruning is carried out taking into account the age of the tree. It should be remembered that radical removal of shoots from a young seedling will inhibit development and growth. The central trunk is shortened by a quarter to promote the formation of the tree into the cup-shaped shape characteristic of such a crop.
  • Before cutting, you must first determine the branch to be replaced
  • To create a strong skeleton, choose a strong shoot, which will be the main one in the future. If there is a fork, the competitor is immediately cut out
  • When rejuvenating an old tree, it is recommended to remove just one large branch, instead of many young shoots
  • In an adult tree, the crown of the tree is first thinned out, which will allow the sun to fully illuminate it. If this is not done, without sunlight, fruits will not form on the lower shaded tiers. They will form only on the upper level, where there is more light, but they are difficult to get out of there. In the shade, the lower branches become bare and become unproductive
  • Pruning is carried out in two ways. On a ring, this is when cuts and cuts are made at the base. To prevent the bark from being torn off, an incision is made in the right place from below, and the main part is cut off from above. Shortening in length - stimulates the rapid growth of new shoots - the lateral buds remaining below the cut are actively awakening
  • Sections need to be processed. For this purpose, garden pitch (purchased or prepared), Rannet, which can heal any damaged areas on the tree, are used; in extreme cases, oil paint is used
  • We take into account the fact that shoots grow vertically, horizontally and downwards. You need to get rid of the vertical ones, they are useless, and growth in the horizontal ones needs to be supported. Branches that grow downwards are unproductive
  • After pruning, you should not fertilize the pear tree with nitrogen or other additives. Everything that is needed at this stage for development and restoration is taken from the soil by the crop.
  • If pruning is carried out efficiently, by the next growing season the places where the cuts and cuts will be well tightened, healed, and a healthy tree will be pleased with an excellent harvest

Here's how to properly prune a pear in the spring, the scheme is not complicated - strengthening the skeleton of the tree, creating a shape, a free and well-lit crown. The lower level of branches should be especially strong.

In addition, spring pruning has the following advantages:

  • The gardener has time, suitable conditions and the opportunity to form the correct shape, density of branches
  • At the same time, the old tree is rejuvenated, young shoots are strengthened
  • The productive function of the branches is improved due to the free passage of the sun to the lower tiers
  • Increased productivity
  • Prevention from pests and diseases
  • The plant is cleared of old, weak, damaged branches

If the deadlines and rules are observed, the crop responds painlessly to pruning and actively enters the growing season. A lot of seasonal spring moisture and active sun contribute to the rapid healing of wounds. The plant spends little nutritional energy on its restoration, but directs it to the blossoming of fruit buds and the growth of young shoots.

In summer, pruning pears can only involve pinching the ends of the shoots. This is a manipulation that allows the tree to save nutrition. It stops the growth of the shoot, which has already gained the required length.

Pinching carried out in the summer (for example, in June), slowing down the growth of rapidly growing branches, directs forces to the weak. Along with this, new axillary buds are formed on young shoots. After such manipulation, leaf buds are transformed into fruit buds. But there is also a minus here - such an action depletes the tree, which will negatively affect the immunity and the upcoming wintering of the crop.

Young pear and its pruning

Young and old pears differ radically in the number and size of shoots and branches. Some gardeners are afraid of harm, and initially allow the crown to thicken significantly. The seedling must be pruned immediately so that the correct crown is formed earlier. At the same time, by identifying the main skeletal branch at the very beginning and promoting the growth of lateral branches, the gardener will make his work easier for several years.

Pruning the seedling after planting is especially important. Since the roots experience stress during transplantation, they may be damaged. Their survival rate and the possible absence of lateral branches are stimulated by shortening the main conductor. A suitable length is no more than eighty centimeters.

A tree older than one year can be pruned twice a season, which increases branching. The stems of the lower tier should be at right angles to the trunk and evenly spaced from each other. They are cut back to the third bud. After winter, the side branches are shortened by one quarter, and the tops are removed. If necessary, some of them are transferred to semi-skeletal, overgrown branches. If leaves grow poorly on frostbitten tops after a cold winter, they are cut out. The rest will be able to restore the crown during growth.

On a three-year-old pear, a second tier is laid at a distance of forty centimeters from the first. At the lower level, strong branches are cut by half, slowly growing ones by a third.

On a four to five year old tree, the growth will be less; this is typical for such a crop at this age, so moderate shortening of the shoots is applied to it. The main conductor should be thirty centimeters higher than the side branches. The diameter of each upper tier is made ten centimeters smaller than the lower one.

The crown takes five years to form, the first fruits appear in the sixth or seventh year.

Old pear tree, how to prune it?

Pruning an old pear tree is a responsible and labor-intensive process. All types of pruning are applied to an adult tree - formative, rejuvenating and sanitary. Moreover, if it bears little fruit, it needs to unload and rejuvenate.

The tree must enter the rejuvenation process healthy, otherwise it will die.

Having prepared a tool (secateurs, garden knife, saw, lopper) and a stepladder, you can proceed:

  • The optimal time is the beginning of spring (before the buds swell and the first leaves form)
  • The top of the central trunk must be shortened by one third if the tree has grown too tall
  • All vertical shoots, dry, damaged, are removed, after which the further scope of work can be easily determined
  • Branches pointing downwards are cut into a ring
  • Two adjacent ones are not allowed, the weakest ones, directed towards the trunk, must be removed
  • At the lower level, no more than seven branches are left. The distance between them should remain no less than eighty centimeters
  • Shoots are cut out from the trunk, growing towards it at an acute angle
  • If there are branches with forks, cut off the lower branch

Since rejuvenating pruning of an old tree is not carried out in full immediately, but over several years, in one year it is allowed to cut no more than three large branches with a diameter of ten centimeters. Over the next two to three years, the pear is cleared of excess branches that thicken and block the access of sunlight to the lower levels of the crown.

For a speedy recovery after spring pruning and for active entry into a full growing season, it is provided with proper care. The wounds are treated after a day, watered sufficiently, the tree trunk circle is loosened, and weeds are removed from it so that the roots can breathe freely.

It is important to know! When caring for a pear, you should not make common mistakes:

  • Using a blunt instrument causes damage to the bark, which takes a long time for the tree to heal and is painful.
  • Pruning at the wrong time affects the plant’s immunity, the duration of recovery, delays the growing season, and reduces fruiting
  • It is not recommended to leave stumps at the cut sites. When properly pruned into a ring, the plant can quickly heal and heal the wound with an influx of bark
  • Promising branches are those extending from the trunk at an angle of no less than forty-five degrees.
  • You cannot leave the formation of a young crown for the second or third year. It's hard to fix it at a time like this

As it turns out, each tree needs an individual approach. But now any summer resident will be able to make his garden healthy, well-groomed and productive, and he, in turn, will thank him and delight him with tasty, juicy fruits every year.

Pruning pears in spring video for beginners

Pear is a light-loving crop, so its dense crown requires periodic pruning. Eliminating unnecessary branches allows you to create a proper tree skeleton that can support even the largest fruits. This also allows you to harvest the crop without much difficulty and freely spray the tree. Such work is carried out with the aim of returning growth and increasing productivity. The process of pruning a pear is similar to the formation of the crown of apple trees.

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    Basic Rules

    Pruning is mainly done using a special sharp garden pruner with narrow blades. All old trees with strong and thick branches are pruned using a garden saw. It is necessary to properly trim all branches without disturbing the vital processes of the plant.

    To do this, there are several rules to consider:

    • Young pears (up to 1 year old) should be pruned at a height of 50-60 cm from the ground. This helps stimulate the growth of new branches from the buds, which are located at the bottom of the tree.
    • The stem of seedlings about 2 years old should be cut off by 25% so that at least 4-5 side branches remain on the stem, which would be located at an angle of 45 degrees to the trunk.
    • Competitor branches must be deleted. It is important to ensure that all main branches are slightly higher than the shoots of the second row. Experts recommend removing all unnecessary parts on skeletal branches by 25%. It is necessary to ensure that the top of the plant remains perfectly level.
    • From the very beginning, you need to remove the shoots that form immediately from the trunk. It is best to make the cutting angle 90 degrees. Immediately after this, it will be possible to cut off other shoots that grow vertically and are located along the trunk.
    • When pruning, you do not need to leave “stumps”, but also do not cut off unnecessary branches. If you take too much, the cut will be very deep and may take a long time to heal. That is why you should navigate directly along the circular influx on the crust. The “ring” is usually located at the very base of the branch.
    • When cutting branches with a diameter of more than 3 cm, you should be guided by a special technique: first, you need to cut the branch from below, and then cut from above. This will keep the bark in perfect condition. Typically, if a branch is cut from above and it falls prematurely under its own weight, the tree's bark will deteriorate.
    • When the tree trimming is completely completed, each cut must be processed, thoroughly lubricated with a special garden varnish. Otherwise, they will secrete juice, which will become a bait for insects. The release of such sap significantly weakens the trees.
    • Experts do not recommend fertilizing the pear after pruning - the tree will take all the necessary nutrients from the root system to restore it.
    • It is best to prune fruit trees in early spring. With the arrival of warmth, as soon as the season of severe frosts ends, you should have time to prune all garden crops before the movement of juice in them begins.

    Types of pear pruning

    A correctly performed pear pruning procedure includes three stages.

    1. Formative pruning - allows you to create the correct crown.

    It is especially difficult for beginners to understand how to properly form the crown of a pear tree. It is recommended to do this taking into account the following rules:

    • In the first year of the growing season, absolutely all young shoots are removed from the pear trunk, and in the place where the first tier is formed, the main central shoot and about five developed lateral shoots are left. All other shoots are broken out or carefully pinched.
    • In the second year of the plant’s life, only the 3 most developed ones are left from its side branches (the angle of departure from the trunk is approximately 45 degrees), as well as the central branch, removing everything else.
    • By measuring the selected branches, you can determine the length of their shortening. If it is more than 60 cm, then the branch is cut off, leaving no more than 50–60 cm in length. This will make it possible in the future to form several second-order branches on this segment, located from the trunk at a distance of 40–50 cm.
    • To regulate fruiting, improving the quality of the fruit, it is necessary to thin out the fruit branches a little, removing the last 3-5 growths. Vertically growing branches should be shortened, transferring them to fruiting or twisting them under the lower branches. By moving and bending the branch to a horizontal position, it is possible to speed up the onset of fruiting.

    The shape of a young crown is deduced when its skeletal branches are visible and there are no large intersecting or parallel branches running side by side. During crown formation, special attention should be paid to the height of the trunk. Low-standard trees are considered more preferable because it is much easier to care for their crown and harvest, reducing the risk of damage to the trunk by frost and sunburn.

    2. Sanitary – performed before the plant’s growing season.

    Includes the removal of dead and diseased branches.

    3. Supportive - represents the main pruning, which is performed from early March to early April.

    Here small parts of large branches are cut off so as not to overload them with fruits.

    Pruning pears in summer

    In the summer, it is preferable to use the pinching method to trim pears. This method has another name - pinching. The scheme of such work consists in pinching out all the young shoots of the tree.

    All work can be done with bare hands. Young and unnecessary shoots at the very top are pinched with fingernails. This results in the complete removal of the top of the tree down to the hardened area. This will not allow young shoots to grow in length.

    Typically summer pruning begins in early June and continues until the end of the season. The thing is that the branches do not stop growing, but only stop growing. That is why the procedure will need to be repeated about every 10 days, especially with strong upward growth.

    Pinching in the summer makes it possible to significantly save energy when caring for a pear in the fall and spring. After all, many branches that need to be removed at this time have not yet gained strength. This pruning method allows you to convert all leaf buds into fruit buds. As mentioned above, as long as the tree does not spend its own energy on the intensive development of branches, all the nutrients go to the fruits.

    Tree pruning in autumn

    Fruit tree pruning is carried out in September, continues in October and ends in early December. Typically, this procedure is required for pears with early or mid-ripening periods. In the fall, pear pruning is necessary in order to significantly increase the tree’s ability to produce large harvests. The principle of pruning fruit trees in autumn is shown in the picture.


    Pruning pear trees in autumn is done to remove dry, diseased and damaged branches, which are best burned as a result. Immediately after completing this procedure, it is necessary to cut off all annual shoots: this will allow you to leave a few buds on them so that new branches can form from them in the spring.

    To prune correctly , you must follow the diagram:

    1. 1. It is recommended to completely remove diseased and dried branches. Such branches can freeze in winter and even break off, damaging healthy branches.
    2. 2. After this, you should get rid of branches growing at an angle of 90 degrees.
    3. 3. All other incorrectly growing branches are partially removed. It is worth choosing only those branches that stop the development of fruit-bearing branches. If there are other branches that can be removed, then they need to be shortened and completely removed next year.
    4. 4. In case of complete removal of branches, there is no need to leave stumps. Sometimes dangerous pathogenic bacteria remain on them, which can affect other plants on the site.

    Spring pruning

    Caring for pears in the spring is a guarantee of a good harvest in the fall. It is necessary to prune in early spring. The exact time depends on the weather conditions of the region. As soon as the air temperature becomes more than +5 degrees, and there is no more frost at night, the tree can begin to be pruned.

    Spring pruning of pears is carried out step by step according to the following scheme:

    1. 1. The crown of the tree is carefully thinned out. This is necessary so that the sun’s rays evenly heat the trunk and fruit-bearing branches.
    2. 2. To prevent the tree from growing, in the spring the trunk is shortened by ¼.
    3. 3. It is best to carefully treat each cut made with a special product.

    When shortening branches in spring, experts do not recommend using nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

    Winter care

    Forming a crown in winter has an important advantage: the plant is completely at rest, which is why possible wounds will cause minimal damage to it.

    Winter pruning of branches is mainly carried out in February, at temperatures no more than -15°C. Work usually begins with mature trees, because all their fruit buds awaken much earlier. The first step is to remove all damaged, broken and diseased branches, after which they begin to eliminate competing shoots that thicken the crown. To ensure that the resulting wound heals quickly and does not have time to freeze, you need to use a sharp and absolutely clean tool when pruning. Upon completion of work, all sections are processed.

    Caring for varietal pears

    A common type of pear tree is considered to be “Talgar Beauty” - this is a table variety of pear, whose taste is determined by the large predominance of sugar over acids. To obtain tasty fruits, proper tree care is important.

    Pruning the branches of the “Talgar beauty” makes it possible to correctly form the crown, which allows you to increase the volume of the harvest and prevent possible diseases.

    The following diagram will help beginning gardeners:

    1. 1. The first pruning should be carried out after planting the young. If it is still a small 2-year-old seedling, then first you need to trim off the skeletal branches. These are the branches that are located at equal distances, 4 of them are cut off.
    2. 2. In order for the tree to develop correctly and safely, it is recommended to shorten the side branches by 1/4.
    3. 3. Each conductor must be left at least 30 cm higher.
    4. 4. When planting an annual seedling, it must be shortened, leaving a height of 55 cm.

    Gardeners with little experience do not see much difference between pruning young and old trees. But the pattern of pruning trees at different ages has significant differences.

    When planting a seedling, damage to the root system always occurs. The plant is under stress, so it develops worse at this time. The branches grow upward a little slower, and the roots are completely restored. If you prune after planting, the plant restores its rhizomes much faster, receiving from the ground all the necessary nutrients necessary for the full development of fruit-bearing branches.

    In order for the crown to form correctly, the main trunk must be shortened annually. This makes it possible to spend less time on pruning in the future. The most optimal The crown of pear trees is considered to have a pyramidal shape.

    Pear trees over one year old are best pruned twice a year.. This should be done in spring and autumn. If the tree has been growing for more than four years, you can plan a second tier of branches. After the fifth year of life, the appearance of young shoots is noticeably reduced, which is why branches need to be pruned selectively. Otherwise, there is a danger of removing the fruitful branch.

    For old plants It is recommended to use a rejuvenating pruning method. Most often it consists of completely removing old branches that no longer bear fruit. With this you can not only thin out the crown, but also provide the tree with good ventilation and stimulate the active growth of young shoots.

    It is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning at the end of winter or at the very beginning of spring. The most important thing is to try to get there before the growing season begins. Old trees are less sensitive to low temperatures. However, pruning is still best done when the air temperature is about 0 degrees.

To reduce unnecessary growth, only the most necessary pruning of the pear tree is carried out in the fall. The tree responds very strongly to this procedure, intensively growing young shoots next year.

For a tree, there is no difference between pruning in the fall and early spring before the buds awaken. This is the same state of a tree when one growing season has ended and the second has not yet begun. It is more comfortable to carry out pruning in the fall, there are no snowdrifts and spring slush under your feet, and your hands do not freeze.

An unpleasant feature of autumn pruning of trees is that it reduces winter hardiness, therefore it is not applicable for low-winter-hardy species. In the fall, it is ideal to prune a mature pear tree.

Corrective pruning is carried out in September, when the leaves have fallen.

Some gardeners believe that early spring pruning is safer from the point of view of infection of plants with milky sheen. But this disease is quite rare.

Event Tools

Thick branches are cut with a saw, thin branches with pruning shears. To prevent a thick side branch from falling off and tearing off the bark when cutting, it is removed in two steps. First, they cut off most of it, leaving a stump at the trunk, then saw off the remaining part at the very base. A saw or hacksaw causes less damage to branches than a pruning shear.

When thinning the crown, the pruning shears must be held with the sickle-shaped part on top, otherwise cutting into a ring will not work.

You can also use a sharp knife to cut shoots. All tools must be disinfected before work.

Timing of autumn pruning

The time of autumn pruning depends on the region of residence. In the southern regions of Russia it can be carried out on warm October days.

It is not advisable to prune at air temperatures below 0 °C. When wood becomes brittle, it cannot be trimmed. The recommended time for pruning is after leaf fall, when the movement of plant juices slows down.

In order for the tree to have time to prepare for the onset of cold weather, in central Russia it is advisable to complete pruning by October. It is best to choose a sunny, fine day when it is pleasant to work.

Scheme for beginners

The process usually starts from the top. If you cut off the lower branches, the tree will grow upward. Before you begin, you need to imagine what the tree will look like, for example, like a bowl or with a sparsely tiered crown.

Pruning a pear is done in the same way as an apple tree. There are many types of crown formation:

  • tiered;
  • sparsely tiered;
  • pyramidal;
  • fusiform;
  • cup-shaped.

The tiered type of formation is popular. Sparse-tiered pruning is applicable to apple and pear trees with ring-type fruiting.

Approximate cutting diagram:

  1. When pruning, no more than 1/3 of the crown is removed. Ideally, the crown can be made low, wide and flat-round. It is necessary to observe the principle of subordination of branches. If a sparsely tiered crown is formed, the central conductor is left, all other branches are made below it.
  2. You should not put more branches in the upper tier than were in the lower one. If 5 branches grow below, 4 are left at the top, etc. Ideally, they should fill the space between the branches of the previous tier.
  3. When the tree has reached the desired height, the central conductor is cut very short, into 2-3 buds. Next year the tree will grow quite a bit in height. It again needs to be shortened by 2 buds, and the height of the tree will remain the same.

In order for the tree to maintain its shape, size, and bear fruit regularly, branches must be pruned every year.

The nuances of pruning young and old trees

Pruning young pears in the fall is necessary so that all branches are well lit by the sun and ventilated. Therefore, it is necessary to remove unnecessary, interfering branches that intersect with each other.

Correct pruning is done close to the bud so that there is no large stump left, which can become a source of infection in the future.

The cut is made obliquely, its lower edge should be flush with the upper edge of the bud.

The purpose of pruning an old, fruit-bearing pear is to produce more fruits and higher yields. There is no need to remove short, growing branches, because flowers form on them, and then ovaries.

For young and old trees, the general laws of pruning when forming a tiered crown apply:

  1. The first law of subordination, hierarchy. According to it, the branches of the underlying tier should not outgrow the branches of the overlying tiers in height. In this case, the branches of the upper tier are cut shorter than the branches of the lower tier.
  2. The second law is thinning. In trees, thinning the crown opens up light and air. During thinning, dried, diseased, inward-growing and unproductive branches are removed. On older trees, ringlets are also thinned out. This operation causes the laying of new fruit formations.
  3. The third law is shortening. It is made on 1/3 or 1/4 of the branch. It is necessary to take into account the direction of growth of the bud located at the cut. Pruning is done in a zigzag manner, leaving a bud on the shoot one year looking to the left, and the next year to the right. The shoots are shortened depending on the vigor of growth. This procedure causes lateral branching, the shoots do not stretch upward so quickly.

After cutting the branch, the top few buds will give rise to long growth shoots of continuation. Therefore, they are pruned so that the top bud remains, for the shoot to continue next year, and several buds below, for shoots that will give branches of the first order - skeletal ones.

Caring for pear trees after pruning

It is easier for a tree to endure an unpleasant procedure and begin to grow with appropriate care.

2 hours after pruning, all cuts are covered with garden varnish. If you do this right away, the putty will fall off the wet cuts.

A cut with a diameter of less than 2 cm does not need to be covered with garden varnish; a larger diameter must be covered. It is especially important to process the cuts that are made on the ring, directly on the skeletal branches and on the trunk.

We must not forget about general care measures - treatment against pests and diseases, fertilizing, watering and loosening the soil in the tree trunk, removing weeds.