Even ordinary outbuildings on a site can cause disputes and disagreements with neighbors, with whom it is still better to live peacefully. However, if all issues are resolved peacefully, then you can issue a written consent permit for the construction of an object in close proximity to the border of the site. For example, a garage on one site can also be convenient for a neighbor as a supporting wall for the construction of a utility block or simply a shed for building materials. If the so-called blocking households buildings by mutual agreement, for example, one garage is attached to a second garage - then this situation is beneficial for both parties.
Standards for distances from the fence during construction
Sometimes the smell from a septic tank, toilet and cesspool can smell bad in the literal sense of the word. To avoid this, use special means, bacteria. There are a lot of special chemicals on sale for septic tanks, which are also successfully used for outdoor toilets or pits. However, before purchasing, check all the details with the sales consultant, since there are a lot of products and some of them are only suitable for enclosed spaces. Thanks to these funds, you can significantly save on the services of a sewer truck and order it, for example, not every year, but once every 2 years or even less often.
In accordance with SNiP
Before building a house, you should obtain a building permit (Town Planning Code, Article 51, Part 17) from the local government. This document is necessary for further construction, as well as the legal commissioning of the finished building. When developing a site, building codes and regulations must be observed. SNiPs only recommend certain standards, and the final provisions are approved by local authorities, based on the regional characteristics of the territory. However, all regional legal acts are based on SNiPs, regulating and clarifying some provisions.
Rules and regulations for the location of residential, outbuildings, fences, and plantings on the site
According to the standards, the distance from the fence to the residential building cannot be less than 3 m. It is not worth moving the building closer to the edge of the site, not only because of strict rules, but also common sense. In addition to protection from street noise and prying glances, such a gap will make it possible to carry out maintenance and external repairs of the building.
At what distance from the fence should I build a house?
Even at the stage of designing a private house, you need to take into account many parameters and rules for the location of various buildings relative to the fence. Even on your own site, buildings cannot be placed in any order. The rules for installing fences and erecting buildings inside the site are regulated by SNiP. In addition to the requirements of SNiP, local regulations must be taken into account. It is advisable to comply with the requirements and recommendations of SNiP, because failure to comply may result in a fine or a lawsuit from disgruntled neighbors. And basically, the court decision is not made in favor of the offender.
Sanitary standards for private homes are a guarantee of safe, comfortable living
In the vast majority of cases, a private developer independently arranges water supply, sewerage and sewerage systems. The receiver of dirty waste is a septic tank, which is made of concrete rings. It can also be made in the form of a pit, lined with bricks and coated with clay. More practical owners set up a septic tank using special sealed containers that ensure the cleanliness of the environment. But even in this case, they are obliged to comply with the rules for the location of such devices. All these rules are regulated by the Federal Law of March 30, 1999 N 52-FZ “On the sanitary and epidemiological welfare of the population” and the Code of Rules SP 30-102 - 99 “Planning and development of low-rise housing construction areas.” All these sanitary standards for private homes are subject to mandatory compliance.
5.9 To ensure fire extinguishing, in the absence of a centralized water supply, fire-fighting ponds or reservoirs with a capacity of at least 25 cubic meters must be provided on the common use territory of a gardening or dacha association with a number of sites up to 300 - at least (each with sites for installing fire equipment, with the possibility water intake by pumps and provision of access for at least two fire trucks).
Brick compost pit
The construction of a compost pit at the dacha involves a container that is buried 0.5 m deep, 2 m long, 1 m wide. It is not made too deep so that pulling out the humus is quite easy. The bottom and sides of the structure are not covered with anything, so that earthworms and earthworms have free access to the humus. The key principle of operation is the mandatory establishment and maintenance of a certain level of humidity in the pit. It is this that promotes the effective decay of organic matter. In order to stimulate air exchange in the device, its contents must be stirred regularly. In order to speed up the composting process, we recommend that you use special products with additional microorganisms. A hole is dug into which bricks are placed to serve as reservoirs in which organic matter is stored and gradually processed. It is covered with a special lid, under which the process of decay of organic matter is realized.
Standards for development and site planning in 2019
The location of buildings relative to each other is also regulated. So, the compost pit and the well should be at a distance of 20m from each other. This is due to the fact that there is a high risk of toxins and other harmful substances getting deep into the soil, from where they can be transferred into drinking water. You cannot place a well next to a fence.
Distance from fence to compost pit
True, this applies to low buildings, but if you plan to build a full-fledged second floor above the bathhouse for recreation, you will have to check the standards with your village administration or garden cooperative - for each meter in height there may be a certain coefficient of deviation from the fence.
Lemur, my evening lasted for two days, but I keep my promise!So, briefly about compost.
Every year, humus disappears from the surface of your garden by 2-3 percent in height as it gives up its nutrients. And another figure: compost contains only up to 10 percent humus.
Composting lasts 6 months in spring and summer. And in the fall it must be distributed throughout the site so that by spring it is ready for work. It can either be added during digging, or simply laid in a layer around trees, shrubs and generally throughout the entire planting area.
What does a compost heap consist of:
Grass from a lawn mower gives a lot of nitrogen, so you don’t need to put all of it, but in moderation, the rest is simply thrown away, but not in the compost.
Wood ash is an excellent potash fertilizer.
Wood sawdust.
Remains of vegetables and fruits, but if before sale they were treated against the sprouting of shoots, potatoes, for example, then of course we don’t put them in compost, otherwise nothing will grow. I don’t know how to check this, but in general, we don’t add potato peelings from potatoes bought in large markets.
Cardboard egg boxes and toilet paper rolls (we don’t put dyed ones). They are needed to dilute the nitrogen in the compost.
Torn newspapers.
Branches after pruning bushes and trees, but they need to be chopped. If you don't grind it, the water will be retained in the pile.
Manure from domestic animals. It’s better not to take it from large farms (they use a lot of medicines....but a comment).
Straw.
Coffee grounds - rich in nitrogen and oligo-elements, can be thrown along with filters, especially if they are not made of white paper.
Bags of tea, herbs (sleeped, of course).
Eggshell.
Cheese and ham crusts.
Walnut shell.
Nettle before flowering.
Conifer needles, they oxidize the soil well. My roses love them very much :)
Water from an aquarium with algae.
Hair, fur, feathers.
Withered flowers.
Avoid weeds with already formed seeds (that is, during and after flowering), we also do not put roots, meat, which can attract rodents and God forbid not their best representatives in the form of rats.
Lay the pile in layers so that you can easily turn them around, that is, do not compact them. Water each new layer with water, since dry filling will not decompose quickly. How much water is hard to say, depends on the composition of your pile. Water so that the bottom of your pile does not turn sour, well, in general, by eye, in order to moisten (and not drown) the compost, especially in the heat. If you water the garden with a hose, walk over the heap with rain. Sometimes it is advised to sprinkle the layers with earth, a little. Well, stir it all up so it doesn’t cake. Do not mix the layers, but stir them. Insert a strong stick between the slats and lift the layers to allow air to pass through.
Roman Konstantinovich(10/20/2014 at 11:26:49 pm)
Good afternoon
At the moment, the main document regarding the compost pit is the document “Planning and development of territories of gardening associations of citizens, buildings and structures” SNiP 30-02-97, which should be guided by when developing the site. Here are the rules it contains:
Fire distance.
Between outer buildings and groups of buildings it must be at least 6 m (between wooden frame buildings - 15 m).
Drainage.
Rainwater from the roofs of neighboring buildings should not flow onto your property.
The proximity of a well and a compost pit, a latrine. The distance between them must be at least 8 m. A minimum of 12 meters must separate the bathhouse, sauna, shower, as well as buildings for small livestock and poultry from the well. The same distance should be maintained between the garden house, cellar and restroom, and showers, baths, saunas should not be placed closer than 8 meters. Far from the cellar (7 meters away) you will have to build a chicken coop or pigsty, as well as a composting area.
The toilet, familiar to many summer residents, in the form of an uninsulated pit and a “birdhouse” is prohibited by the same SNiP (clause 8.6 and clause 8.7). If there is no central sewer system, feces should be removed using local composting devices or using cesspools.
Local composting devices include powder closets (a toilet in which feces are sprinkled with peat and kept in a well-insulated container, for example, a box coated with resin and closed with a lid, until compost is formed) and dry closets (a device where, using electrical heating or chemical additives, fecal waste is converted into organic fertilizer).
Cesspools must also be well insulated to prevent their contents from contaminating groundwater and soil. Even at the project development stage, the placement of such a toilet on your site should be agreed upon with local authorities for the regulation, use and protection of groundwater, as well as with the SEZ. Backlash closets (a warm indoor latrine with an underground cesspool) cannot be installed in climatic region IV and subdistrict IIIB.
For example, you can’t just pour out soapy water after washing. All wastewater after a shower, bath, sauna or household work should be poured into specially designated places - filter trenches with a layer of gravel and sand or in other treatment facilities (SNiP clause 8.8). An external ditch can be used for these purposes.
ATTENTION! The specified distances must be observed both within the territory of one site and between buildings in neighboring territories. For example, your neighbor should not organize a compost pit or install a toilet three meters from your well. For such a violation, he can be held administratively liable, which could result in a fine and the subsequent elimination of this very “bone of discord.” True, in order to punish the violator, you should register your well in the SEZ before your neighbor draws up documents for his compost pit or latrine there. Otherwise, it will be difficult to prove that it was he who violated the regulatory documents.
Thus, they cannot prohibit you from building or already having a compost pit.
Good luck resolving the matter, I would appreciate your feedback.
Upon completion of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of a sewer system in an apartment building, industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is necessary to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewerage part, and the test report for internal sewerage and drainage systems will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the facility.
A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.
Roofs made of metal profiles are today a common option for technological structures for complex and simple structural solutions. As a rule, such structural solutions are used for large production areas, warehouses, agricultural buildings, as well as for apartment buildings. The exact service life according to the main technical characteristics depends on a number of factors, including how effectively the end elements are secured, where the wind strip for corrugated sheeting plays an important role in this. The cross-section of such a structure can have a different form, and for the most part is taken into account from the standard design of the corrugated sheet, the working wave height, and the width of the wave distance of the roof. The main feature of roof wind protection is its unique characteristics, which have different curves for configuration.
The main structural solution is the size of the wind strip for corrugated sheeting, which has the form of a panel, made at a conventional right angle. The traditional size of the additional part is 2 linear meters. The width of the material is different, it ranges from 40*60 mm to 90*300 mm. For narrow types of planks, as a rule, it is used for cladding from thick, dense corrugated board, which has a low wave height.
The pinnacle of technical thought and innovative developments of the latest generation to ensure drainage in the house, this is what Nicoll drains are called by those who, as part of their duties, are engaged in the installation of high-quality drainage for buildings of various infrastructure. The brand was first born in France back in 1956, and for 6 decades the manufacturer has remained unchanged in its principles of quality and reliability for all drainage systems used. Innovative ideas have made Nicoll gutters popular in many countries around the world, and certification of quality and management according to SO 9001 and ISO 14001 is an additional confirmation of trust in this brand.
Already today, the Nicoll drainage system has reached the global level, and the manufacturer has managed to expand the production site, which is over 1 thousand hectares, and the total number of items in the company’s product range is about 6 thousand units. It is noteworthy that polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, and also polyester are used as reliable materials for Nicole gutters, which increase the strength of the finished product and enhance the basic characteristics of the material.
Even at the stage of designing a private house, you need to take into account many parameters and rules for the location of various buildings relative to the fence. Even on your own site, buildings cannot be placed in any order. The rules for installing fences and erecting buildings inside the site are regulated by SNiP. In addition to the requirements of SNiP, local regulations must be taken into account. It is advisable to comply with the requirements and recommendations of SNiP, because failure to comply may result in a fine or a lawsuit from disgruntled neighbors. And basically, the court decision is not made in favor of the offender.
Requirements for the fence itself
When arranging your site, information about the standards for constructing the fence itself is important. For a private house, the fence requirements are as follows:
In other cases, there are practically no restrictions; the best materials that meet these requirements are:
You can agree with your neighbors on the height and transparency of the adjacent fence. 
In this case, it is better to formalize the consent in writing and certify it. This will already be an official document that can help even if the neighbors change over time.
Distance from fence to house
It is very important at the design and construction stage to correctly position the house relative to the fence. To find out at what distance to build a house from the fence, you need to use the established standards.
Fence on the side of the roadway
The section of fence facing the road, the so-called red line, is usually equipped with gates and a wicket. The shortest distance from the fence to the house is set at 5 m. Violating the boundaries of the building in a smaller direction can cause problems when preparing documents in the BTI, and does not comply with fire safety standards.
Required distance standards from the fence on the side of the roadway
If the road is a passage, the distance can be reduced to 3 m.
In addition to SNiP requirements, there are also fire safety standards, which are sometimes difficult to comply with:
- A house made of stone, brick, concrete should be located at a distance of 6–8 m from the fence;
- Frame buildings with fireproof insulation - 10–12 m;
- Wooden house - 12–15 m.
A distance of 5 m has its advantages and is preferable from a practical point of view:
- The greater the distance from the road, the less noise from passing cars will be heard;
- Remoteness from exhaust gases and road dust;
- The ability to hide your private life from the views of random passers-by.
Fence adjacent to neighboring property
Frequent conflicts and litigation are associated with the location of buildings close to the boundary line. To avoid quarrels and misunderstandings with neighbors, you should carefully consider the existing requirements for. 
The distance to neighboring houses is determined according to fire safety requirements:
- Non-combustible materials (stone, reinforced concrete, concrete) - 6 m;
- Non-combustible and low-combustible materials with wooden floors - 8 m;
- Wood and frame structures - 10 m.
Often conflicts with neighbors arise due to the shading of the site when building a multi-storey cottage. A tall house located too close to a neighbor's fence can cause plants and trees to grow poorly. However, no one wants to place the house in the middle of the plot to the detriment of their own interests.
In any case, on this issue it is better to contact specialists who, based on the situation, the size of the site and other details, will offer the best option. It is worth remembering that the minimum distance between the building and the adjacent fence must be at least 3 m. 
This arrangement is completely legal and is rarely challenged by neighbors.
At what distance from the fence to build a bathhouse?
The location of the bathhouse depends on many parameters: the material used for construction, the method of arranging the sewerage system. According to sanitary and fire standards, the minimum distance from the bathhouse to the fence adjacent to the neighboring site is 3 m.
This distance is due to the specific nature of the building: drained wastewater from the bathhouse should not fall into the neighboring area. In addition, the bathhouse can cause a fire or dense shade in the neighboring area.
According to the rules, you can save half a meter by installing a sewer and drainage system, then a distance of 2.5 meters from the neighbors’ fence is considered acceptable. In addition to the boundary line, you need to take into account the distance to the neighboring house - 8 m. It can be reduced to 6 m if the bathhouse is built from materials of flammability class 1-2 (brick, concrete or stone).