USEFUL TIPS FROM EXPERIENCED GARDENERS Save so as not to lose! A WONDERFUL NEIGHBOR... It has long been noted that some plants influence others in a certain way. Many plants are capable of protecting each other. It is known that there are no pests on the lower branches of apple trees if dill, tomato and other phytoncides grow nearby. In a garden where corn is planted between the rows, there are fewer pests on the crops. Cabbage planted as a seal on cucumber crops is not affected by pests until harvesting, whereas in pure cabbage beds there are a lot of them, especially aphids. Cabbage can also be planted together with tomatoes - in a row. There will be no caterpillars on the cabbage, and the tomato yield will be much higher. The folk method of growing onions mixed with carrots is widely known. In the fall you will reap a wonderful harvest of both crops. Many gardeners sow dill scattered throughout the garden. At one time this technique was called ignorance. However, pests do not live in such “ignorance”! Amateur gardeners practice sowing onions in rows and between rows of strawberries. The leaves of these crops must be in contact, and picking onion feathers onto the greens increases the strength of the phytoncidal secretions. These two cultures perfectly disinfect each other. There should be a lot of onions so that the greens of both crops are equal. There is no gray rot on such plantations even in damp summers. LET'S HELP THE APPLE TREES! All for the fight against the codling moth! Attach a hunting belt to the tree trunk - spread universal glue against rats, mice and insects on paper and wrap it around the tree. A ton of all sorts of pests will stick. Hang a jar of diluted apple cider vinegar on a tree and see what a crowd it will be! TOMATOES, TOMATOES... Do you know that if you cut off the lower leaves of seedlings, they will not stretch and will turn out strong and thick? Subsequently, when the tomato has already migrated to the garden bed, continue to cut off the lower leaves and your tomatoes will almost never suffer from late blight and other diseases! By removing the lower leaves, you will not only protect your tomatoes from disease, but also allow fresh air to reach the stems. Should I plant tomatoes once a season? How possible! Contrary to the prevailing stereotype about newly appearing stepchildren, they need to be allowed to grow a little, and then broken off so that a stump about 1 cm long remains. After such an execution, stepchildren do not appear again! Here is an unusual, but very effective way to combat late blight on tomatoes: pierce the tomato stem at the very bottom with copper wire. Copper ions are carried throughout the plant and act on the fungus in the same way as spraying with copper sulfate, plus they are not washed off by rain or when watering! Try watering your tomatoes with nettle tincture diluted with water for at least three days. They will then be massive, friendly to harvest, and will become less sick. SUMMER RESIDENT How not to lose where the seedlings are planted? Young plants are often confused with weeds and pulled out. Take a plastic bottle and cut rings about 4-5 cm wide from it. Stick these rings into the ground so that the seedlings are in the center. It’s very convenient to plant this way; you won’t forget where you planted something, because the seeds are very small, and they won’t even wash away. To prevent the film on the shelter from flapping in the wind, tie plastic bottles in pairs and, filling them with water (sand), place them on top of the greenhouse using the rocker principle. The clamp is ready Removing flowers from potatoes allows you to increase the yield of tubers.
Tip #1
Between the potato beds, plant something from the legume family (peas, beans).
The waste products of bacteria on the roots of these plants will be a nitrogenous fertilizer of natural origin for potatoes!
Tip #2
Beets, despite their unpretentiousness to the planting site, still have preferences. This should be a well-lit, drained area; light gives the root crop its color.
If the soil is acidic, then when laying the beds, add ash with dolomite flour or lime. However, you should be careful with lime, as its excess will lead to scab disease in the crop. The best predecessors are pumpkin, legumes and nightshade.
Sow seeds in open ground in two approaches with an interval of two weeks (to be on the safe side if the first sowing freezes). The soil for sowing must be warmed to 6°C and must be moistened. To increase the sugar content of beets, some gardeners recommend watering the garden bed with a solution of table salt at the rate of 1 tsp. per 10 liters of water (consumption per 1 sq.m.)
Tip #3
To combat pests, shrub trunks need to be treated with lime mortar. Please note that lime should only be diluted in cold water.
It is very good to wash your hands after work (to avoid skin burns).
Tip #4
To save cucumbers and tomatoes from “powdery mildew”, they must be sprayed with a milk solution (1 part milk to 9 parts water).
The mixture covers the leaves with a shiny film and protects them from infection.
Treatment must be carried out once a week.
Tip #5
To prevent slugs from eating cabbage, you need to dig a container with regular beer next to the beds: the pests’ interest will instantly switch to the drink, and now they are unlikely to remember cabbage...
Tip #6
All types of cabbage respond well to hilling - thanks to it, additional roots appear and nutritional conditions improve.
Tip #8
Loosen the root zone of the tomato finely so as not to damage the roots. It is better to water the tomato along the furrows, especially in cold weather. This can avoid diseases, shedding of flowers and ovaries. Tomato fruits last longer if they are picked in the morning and placed in one row with the stalk facing up.
Tip #9
Pepper bushes grow well and bloom profusely, so some of the upper flowers and shoots have to be removed. In hot, humid weather it is necessary to plant peppers, and, conversely, in hot, dry summers the plants are not planted. At the same time, the leaf mass protects the soil under the bush from moisture evaporation.
Tip #10
Carrot seeds only remain viable for one to two years, so it is necessary to check them in advance, as they only begin to germinate after two to three weeks.
A sign that the seeds are fresh is a sharp, pleasant “carrot” smell.
Tip #11
Before ripening, it is advisable to free the upper part of the bulb by raking out the soil. Some people believe that to speed up the ripening of the bulb, the tops should be trampled.
But it's not right. From the crushed tops, the substances remaining in the leaves will not be able to pass into the bulb, and its quality will deteriorate. To speed up ripening, the bulbs with roots can be lifted with a fork along with the soil and left in place until the tops dry.
Tip #12
Those who love green garlic should know that the part of the plant that is in the soil is especially tender and tasty, and therefore, as it grows, the plants should be fed with moist soil (bleaching garlic).
Tip #13
It is necessary to collect cucumbers every day, or better yet twice a day - morning and evening. This will significantly increase plant productivity.
Tip #14
All pumpkin plants form a large number of additional roots, which improves nutrition and increases yield, therefore, when the vines begin to form, they must be directed and pinned or sprinkled with earth in some places so that they form additional roots.
When loosening and harvesting, do not move the lashes from place to place.
Tip #15
Why don't we plant radishes in June? Radish is a fairly cold-resistant crop. It can withstand frosts down to -20 C. The optimal temperature for growth is +18 C. Let's consider all possible sowing options.
How to grow large onions. And also to be stored for a long time! I'm not much of a gardener yet. But my onions are growing just fine. And one neighbor at the dacha taught him how to care for it: everyone is jealous of her harvests! So I want to tell you how this is done. So to speak, let the neighbor’s secrets into the masses. The first secret. Onions do not like clay soil, if you have one, you need to pour sand and peat into the garden bed and mix everything. You also need slightly alkaline soil; if you have acidic soil, be sure to add dolomite flour in the fall (it’s too late to do this in the spring) to deoxidize it. The second secret. When planting seedlings, you need to immerse it in a solution of potassium permanganate for 10-20 minutes to disinfect the planting material. The third secret. Then you need to trim the top so that the onion germinates faster. The fourth secret. Sprinkle a little regular salt into the row, it will help in the fight against onion flies. Secret five. Be sure to plant a bed of carrots next to the onion bed, which will again repel the onion fly. And the onion, in turn, repels the carrot fly. So to speak, the benefit is mutual. Onions and carrots should grow side by side! Secret six. Make three feedings. 1st - in the phase of two leaves - slurry (1 liter of manure per bucket of water) or chicken droppings (1 glass per bucket of water) + 30-40 g of superphosphate, previously dissolved in warm water, + a glass of ash. 2nd feeding after two weeks: superphosphate – 30 g + urea 10 g + potassium 5 g per bucket of water. 3rd feeding - at the end of June - superphosphate 30 g + urea 10 g + potassium 5 g. If you feed in early July, exclude nitrogen (urea). And in no case allow excess nitrogen fertilizers; the feathers will be good, but the heads will suffer. Of the potash fertilizers, potassium sulfate is best suited, since onions are demanding of sulfur. And the preservation of onions depends on potassium. It's still in the ashes. The seventh secret. Under no circumstances use fresh manure and potassium chloride in fertilizing (if you add it, do so only in the fall) - you will immediately reduce your yields. Do not neglect phosphorus - the size of the bulbs largely depends on it. Drying onions correctly! Secret eight. Very important because we all want onions to last as long as possible. So, for this to happen, it is necessary to remove onions in central Russia and Belarus in a timely manner, namely before the first August rains. The best time is at the end of July. If you are late, you will spoil not only your onions, but also the reputation of a good gardener - nothing will help preserve the onions for a really long time. The ninth secret. Of course, you need to dry the onions as best as possible in the attic, where the wind blows. Then remove all the dried dirt, cut off the dried feather, leaving 8-10 cm. Secret tenth. I also recommend sorting out the onions from time to time. If at least one suddenly goes bad, others will start to go bad as well.
Comments 4
Classes 114
13 comments
Classes 546
IF GARLIC TURNS YELLOWING Causes of yellowing Yellowing of the tips of the leaves of both winter and spring garlic is observed almost every year. The reasons may be a lack of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, both in cold rainy weather and lack of moisture on hot days. Control measures As soon as the garlic begins to turn yellow, it is necessary to loosen the soil - to give the roots an influx of oxygen. It is very important to destroy the soil crust covered with soil blue-green and other types of algae (especially on sticky soils). This activates the supply of essential nutrients from the soil and helps clear it of weeds. Immediately after loosening, you should feed the garlic with organic matter - an infusion of slurry (1:5), mullein (1:6) or bird droppings (1:10-15). It is advisable to add 100 g of sifted wood ash per 10 liters of solution. Consumption: 10 l per 3-5 sq.m.
Comments 3
Classes 91
An interesting idea for growing greens!
Comments 5
Classes 283
CORRECT CARE OF CURRANTS Save so as not to lose! Here's the problem: aphids and caterpillars have occupied the young plants. And powdery mildew decided to finish what the pests had started. What to do here? We need to start with prevention. In the fall, remove all fallen leaves and burn them. Pull out all the grass next to the bushes and loosen the soil, just be careful not to damage the roots. Fertilizers have also not been canceled yet: after loosening, add 0.5 liters of ash under each bush and dig in the potato peelings. Mulch the surrounding soil with dried grass clippings or rice husks. Throughout the winter, do not throw away onion peels and potato peelings - they will all go to a good cause. From time to time, take them to the site: rake away the snow, scatter them under a bush and sprinkle them again. In early spring, when the buds are just beginning to bloom, add 2-3 tbsp to each bush. spoons of urea, and spray the bushes themselves with Bordeaux mixture. After a week, spray again with onion peel infusion. Just before flowering, spray again with onion peel infusion (1-1.5 liters per bush). Please note: well-groomed currants will bloom very profusely. When the berries are set, pour a superphosphate solution well under the roots (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) and treat again with onion peel infusion. Currants do not tolerate dry soil, so make sure the soil is always moist. By the beginning of July, your currant bushes will be bright green, beautiful, strewn with ripening large berries and absolutely healthy. Thanks to intensive care, you will learn that common bushes can produce very large berries - 15-22 mm in diameter. In the fall, dig up the soil under the bushes again (don’t forget about potato peelings and peels), fertilize with superphosphate (2-3 tablespoons per bush) and ash. Mulch. Believe me, all your friends and family will be pleasantly surprised by how large and tasty your berries are.
Comments 15
Classes 1.1K
HOW TO PLANT GLADIOLUS CORRECTLY. In the spring, a month before planting, I clean the gladioli corms and arrange them in boxes in one layer. Before planting, I soak the corms and the cleaned baby for 10 hours in a solution of 0.5% succinic acid (growth stimulant), then for 20 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. I add 3 g of foundationazole per 1 liter to both solutions. I plant gladioli corms in late April - early May, as soon as the soil thaws to the depth of a spade bayonet. Many people ask me, at what depth to plant gladioli? When planted deeply, the flowers form few children; when planted shallow, they produce a large corm and many children. I plant large corms, depending on the soil, to a depth of 12-20 cm according to a 20x25 cm pattern. Shoots will appear when the threat of frost has passed, during which time the gladioli will form a powerful root system. And, conversely, when planted late in hot weather, the plant develops green mass without creating a good root system. After the emergence of seedlings, you can mulch the plantings with overripe litter from sawdust from chickens or chaff. I pour sand in a layer of 3-5 cm into the planting furrows or put sphagnum moss. Planting in fresh horse manure gives excellent results. Two weeks before planting in the ground, I place the cleaned babies in 5-6 pieces in film cups. After the shoots emerge, I plant the cups in the ground at intervals of 25 cm. How to care for gladioli. Over the summer I fertilize several times, starting when the third or fourth leaf appears: first with mullein infusion, then with chicken infusion or a weak infusion of pigeon droppings. After watering and rain, the plants receive another portion. Gladioli can be fed with chlorophyll extract - fill a 10-bucket barrel with grass, weeds, fill with water and add 100 g of caustic soda. After a week, the fertilizer is ready, I throw out the rough stems with a pitchfork, and you can feed all flower and garden crops by diluting 1 liter of infusion in 1 bucket of water. After the appearance of the fourth leaf, I systematically spray the gladioli against pests with chlorophos or karbofos (0.3% solution) at intervals of 10 days, or with an infusion of garlic or tomato stepsons. Against diseases, I spray the plants with 0.3% foundation 3 times a season. In the fall, after digging up gladioli, I burn corms with obvious signs of disease, and cut the stems of healthy ones short, wash them in water, soak them for 20 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and dry them during the day in the wind and sun. Then I dry it for 2-3 weeks near heating devices (you can hang it in gauze bags). By the end of drying, the old mother corm is easily removed (if with difficulty, then it is either not completely dry or sick). A diseased corm must be destroyed to avoid infecting healthy ones. I separate the corms and baby bulbs and store them by variety in paper bags or bags in the coolest place in the apartment or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. For better preservation, I powder them with naphthalene and foundation. Of course, powdered material cannot be stored in the refrigerator. Depending on the variety and size of the corm, gladioli bloom in July-September. Gladioli in the budding phase require more phosphorus and potassium. With a sufficient amount of these elements, flowering will be good and the corm will gain the necessary supply of nutrients. For feeding, superphosphate (phosphorus) and potassium chloride or potassium sulfate (potassium) are best suited. Fertilizers should be applied to the furrows between the rows in liquid form at the rate of: 25 g/m² superphosphate and 15 g/m² potassium chloride or potassium sulfate. Since superphosphate does not dissolve in water, it must be filled with water for a day, and the infusion should be shaken thoroughly before adding it to the soil. Before and after fertilizing, water the plants thoroughly. Gladioli are cut at the moment of full opening of the lower flower in the inflorescence. The remaining flowers will open gradually in a vase of water over two weeks or more. To make the cut smooth and neat, you need to use a sharp knife or pruning shears. On the plant remaining in the garden bed, it is recommended to leave as many leaves as possible (at least four), which will “work” for the corm. To avoid damaging the leaves remaining on the plant when cutting, you can perform the operation in this way: using a narrow knife sharpened on both sides, pierce the stem in the place where the fourth and fifth leaves diverge, and then, holding the plants with one hand below the puncture, simply pull them out with the other peduncle Good luck at the dacha!
Comments 15
Classes 623
WHAT AND WHEN TO FEED BLACKCURRANTS In early spring, it is best to feed with nitrogen fertilizers. For young bushes this will be approximately 40-50 g of urea for each plant; then, starting from the 4th year, it is recommended to reduce the amount of urea to 25-40 grams (and even divide it into 2 feedings). In the fall, under each bush, it is advisable to add from 4 to 6 kg of organic matter (bird droppings, compost, manure), from 10 to 20 g of potassium sulfate and about 50 g of superphosphate. This set is considered the main fertilizer, as it includes all the necessary components of “currant nutrition.” Liquid fertilizing Experienced gardeners recommend liquid fertilizing of blackcurrant bushes four times a year - according to the growing season of the plant: the first time - when the buds open, growth and flowering begin ; The second feeding is carried out immediately after flowering. At this time, there is increased growth, and the plant “must be supported.” The amount of growth, and therefore the size of the harvest, depends on this; It is good to carry out the third feeding during the berry-filling period (June - early July). At this time, the need of the fruiting bush for phosphorus and potassium increases. Any complex fertilizers are suitable for feeding; After harvesting, before laying flower buds (late July - August), it is very important to carry out another feeding - this will be the key to successful fruiting next year. But during this period, it is recommended to exclude nitrogen fertilizers (they delay the ripening of shoots). Depending on the composition of the soil on your site, the frequency of application and amount of fertilizer will, of course, vary. The poorer the soil, the more it is necessary to enrich it. Norms and volumes For liquid organic fertilizers, use an infusion of bird droppings (at a concentration of 1:10), slurry or mullein (1:4). It’s great if you have the opportunity to make an infusion of green weeds (green fertilizer) - its concentration for feeding is 1:10. For liquid mineral fertilizing, 20 grams of phosphorus and 10 grams of potassium and nitrogen fertilizers are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The norms for liquid fertilizers are approximately 10 liters per bush. Foliar feeding Experienced gardeners recommend foliar feeding of currants with microelements in June-July. To do this, 5 grams of potassium permanganate, 3 grams of boric acid and 30-40 grams of copper sulfate are diluted separately in different containers, and then mixed in 10 liters of water. Currant bushes are sprayed with this solution. If you don’t have enough time, there is, as always, an alternative way to supply currants with nutrients. It is enough to sow lupine, peas, and vetch (green manure crops) between the rows in the spring, and in the fall simply dig up the soil along with the mowed greens around the bushes. Special opinion For more than ten years, we have been mulching the soil under currant bushes on our site with manure at the rate of 10-12 kg per bush (you can do this with other organic matter) - and do not apply mineral fertilizers at all. But yes, we use liquid green fertilizers (I read on the Internet the advice to add leftover bread to the green mass, and now our country crops eat like humans - mash with bread, and even salt))
Thirty-seven tricks for gardeners and gardeners, that will help make your dacha the best in the area:
1. Beets love watering by sprinkling and frequent but careful loosening.
2. After the second thinning, the beets are fed with mineral fertilizers.
3. Beets grow best in narrow beds, maximum 3 rows wide, with distances between plants of 15-17 cm.
4. Until the carrots sprout, they are watered regularly. When the shoots appear, it is better not to water them for 12-15 days, with the exception of dry days. This allows the roots to go as deep into the soil as possible.
5. If mustard is sown next to peas, its yield will be 2 times higher.
6. It is better to sow dill in the sun, as the aroma of the leaves decreases in the shade. Do not add ash or lime to the dill.
7. Clematis are watered with lime milk in the spring - 100-150 grams per 10 liters of water.
8. In mid-July, carefully remove the soil from the celery fruits and wipe with a cloth. After 15-50 minutes they spud again. Watering is carried out only after 2-3 days.
9. To stimulate the fruiting of the pumpkin, its vines are pinned to the ground and rooted.
10. Seedlings of pumpkin crops, such as cucumber, squash, and zucchini, can be grown in this way: cut the sod into 10*12 cm cubes, turn them upside down, make a hole and plant a seed in it.
11. To ensure that rhubarb petioles grow thick, the soil under the plants is fertilized every year.
12. Do not feed beans, peas, onions, garlic, and beans with nettle infusion.
13. Apple and pear trees require more potassium, and cherries require more nitrogen.
14. If you stroke the tops of the seedlings for 1-2 minutes every day, they will not stretch. When touched, ethylene is released, which inhibits this process.
15. Nettle increases the resistance of nearby plants to diseases. That is why it is useful to mulch the rows with chopped nettles.
16. Green manure from mustard enriches the soil with phosphorus and sulfur, and also cleanses it of mole crickets and wireworms.
17. Onions will grow better if mustard grew in this place.
18. Repellent plants: lupine, celandine, nastrutia, calendula, marigold, onion, kanufer, tansy, wormwood.
19. It is useful to mulch strawberries with pine litter. This will improve the taste of the berries and also help cope with gray rot, weevils, mites, and wireworms. And mulching with fern will help strawberries cope with nematodes and gray rot.
20. After a sharp cold snap, the plants are sprayed with immunocytophyte or zircon. Or you can use an infusion of onion peels. Pour 10 liters of water into a 0.5 liter jar of husks, boil, leave for 12 hours, strain. When spraying, dilute with water in a ratio of 2/10.
21. When it gets cold, buckets of hot water are brought into the greenhouse, and heated bricks are laid on metal sheets.
22. To increase productivity, pollinating insects must be attracted to the site. To do this, pink and white clover, fescue, and bluegrass are sown. Insects are also attracted to white mustard and carrot flowers.
23. To ensure more abundant fruiting in remontant strawberry varieties in the second half of summer, flower stalks are broken off in the spring.
24. Dill is a good companion for cucumber.
25. Beetroot sown along potatoes and tomatoes helps them cope with late blight.
26. If you stick a nettle stalk next to each planted cabbage plant, the cabbage will take root better.
27. To prevent cabbage moths and aphids, dill, coriander, celery, marigolds, calendula are sown in the cabbage rows, and wormwood branches are also laid out.
28. When planting potatoes, pour a handful of ash into the hole - it is a fertilizer and helps against wireworms.
29. To increase yield and improve taste, in the first half of June, garlic is first watered with salted water - 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water, and then regular.
30. If carrot growth is poor, the beds with this crop are watered with a salt solution - 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.
31. Cucumber is demanding of moisture, especially during flowering and fruiting. However, at the beginning of flowering, it is better to reduce watering and then increase it again. This promotes faster fruit formation.
32. In hot weather, cucumbers combine frequent spraying with abundant watering.
33. Cucumber pollen dies at t>30ºC. Therefore, at this time, containers with water should be placed in the greenhouse.
34. Low temperatures and sharp changes in day and night temperatures are the reasons for the deterioration of the taste of cucumber. Also, cucumbers do not tolerate drafts at all.
35. Increased carbon dioxide content in the air accelerates the ripening of fruits and increases yield. Therefore, it is useful to place a container with mullein in greenhouses and stir from time to time.
36. If at the beginning of summer several fruits have formed on the pepper plants, but flowering has stopped, then these fruits must be plucked out. The plants will then begin to bloom with renewed energy and by the end of the season will produce a high yield.
37. To provide fresh air to the pepper roots, loosen the soil more often and prevent the formation of a soil crust.