In most apartments and private houses, metal entrance doors are installed. Often this is done by a master, but you can do it yourself, saving some of the money on repairs. The choice of this type of structure is due to a number of reasons: positive qualities. Let's look at what they are and how to carry out the installation yourself.
Installation of metal products has its own specifics
Design Features
Iron doors are used almost everywhere today. Over the years, it is constantly being improved and new models appear. The rough and inconspicuous material is replaced by an elegant decorative appearance, but this does not damage the technical properties of the product.
Metal doors are popular due to the following characteristics:
- Wear resistance. Excellent resistance external factors during operation. With proper care it does not rust.
- Strength. Metal is difficult to damage. Of all the entry door materials available, this is the most durable option. But it is important to consider that cheap models use thin metal, so the canvas is easily deformed and cracked with a simple can opener.
- Reliability. It perfectly performs the function of a barrier, protecting the house from penetration.
- Soundproofing. The thicker the iron, the better, but a lot depends on the sealing of the box.
- Thermal insulation. Closely related to the previous indicator. High-quality models have an inner layer of insulation; without it, the metal itself easily conducts the cold.
- Durability. Due to the fact that the material is not easily damaged, and it is practically not subject to destruction, the full service life of such a product is decades.
Modern entrance doors have increased reliability and attractive appearance
In the range of products in this category you can find the simplest welded structures made of thick steel and more pleasant-looking modifications. External finishing can also be different: from paint to PVC film and natural veneer on an MDF base.
Required Tools
For the highest quality and fastest installation work front door you will need:
- roulette;
- level;
- plumb line;
- large hammer or mallet;
- drill or hammer drill;
- polyurethane foam;
- screwdriver
Required set of tools
Before you begin installation, carefully study the door design and look at what is included in the kit. First of all, pay attention to the canvas. The thickness of the metal must be at least 2 mm. Additionally, the door is reinforced with stiffeners. There is insulation between them, and decorative cladding is often placed on top of the rough base. Also note whether fittings need to be installed. The hinges are attached in advance, but it is better to wait a little while inserting the lock, as problems may arise when combining its parts during the installation process.
The frame usually comes in one piece with a threshold. For fixing to the wall, the manufacturer provides holes for bolts, otherwise you will need to drill them yourself. Also in the box there should be anti-removal holes for the bolts and recesses for the lock.
Additionally, the kit must include:
- anchor bolts;
- mounting plates;
- nuts;
- seal.
When installing an external door in double structures, it is important to take into account that the direction of swinging should be inside the entrance. In other cases, this point is not so important.
Preparation
Before starting work, the opening is cleared of the old door structure. For this, a crowbar and a hammer drill are used. If the wall is severely damaged, it is necessary to repair the cracks and level the surface before continuing work.
Particular attention must be paid to the preparation process in wooden houses. There is a risk of shrinkage here, especially in the first years after the construction of the building.
To eliminate this drawback, it is performed. Wooden beams are fixed according to the box principle; they compensate for the subsidence of the building by moving the fastening beam along the protrusions.
Removing the old door block
Box installation
The frame is the supporting basis of the entire structure. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the question of how to properly install the front door from the installation of the frame. This is the main stage; the stability and reliability of the structure depends on how well the work is done.
There are two main ways to install an iron door frame:
- In the first case, the emphasis is on the relationship between the frame and the outer plane of the wall. To secure the structure, anchor plates and bolts are used. The chute is installed flush.
- The second option involves deepening the box into the opening. In this case, the anchor bolts hold the frame in the opening by passing through the frame parts directly into the wall.
The main stages of installation with fastening through special holes on the frame
To achieve the greatest stability effect, it is recommended to install the box by combining these two approaches. In this case, the anchor plates are bent until they fit against the wall.
When installing the beam, it is important to maintain the level for each element separately and for the entire structure as a whole. To create the necessary gaps and fix the parts, wooden wedges are used as a substrate.
Since it is not easy to cope with a heavy box and list of work alone, find yourself an assistant.
Installation of the canvas
Hinges are used to secure the door to the frame. Their number directly depends on, but less than 3 is not allowed. Standard models consist of two parts. The lower part is attached to the loot, and the upper part is attached to the canvas. Later they are hung on each other.
The hinges are connected using bolts or welding. Additionally, the door is equipped with a burglar-resistant design. It assumes the presence of anti-removal bolts that block the canvas in the closed position. Thanks to this protection, it cannot be opened even if the hinges are cut off.
How to install the entrance leaf metal door:
- Place the sash into the opening and place a support under it.
- Lift the product so that the upper parts of the loops are above the lower ones and put them on the protruding pins.
- After this, check the movement of the blade, the alignment of the anti-removal bolts with the grooves in the box, and the lock with the counter plate.
- Finally, level the door position.
- Fill the gaps with foam.
After installing the frame, the door leaf is hung and the outer seam is foamed
Finishing
The final stage is the design of the slopes. It is possible here using MDF panels, plastic, laminate and other materials. Or limit yourself to creating a smooth surface using drywall or.
The last step is to glue a rubber seal around the perimeter of the hole and lubricate the fittings. This completes the installation of the iron door.
Doors can be different, interior or entrance,
wooden or metal, simple and equipped with various additional
automatic systems. And in each case, the doors must be installed
appropriate complexity.
Door manufacturers usually install
doors yourself, providing a guarantee for the work performed, and, of course
However, they charge a certain fee for this.
Naturally, installing doors requires the involvement of a team of professionals, but at the same time, the work can be done independently. Knowing the installation rules interior doors, and the nuances of installing a metal door, the entire procedure can be completed by two people in 3-4 hours.
For those who choose the latter option, let's look at how
install a metal entrance door with your own hands.
Nuance. As a rule, the manufacturer does not provide
warranty on a door that is installed by third parties and also does not fulfill it
adjustment.
DIY metal door installation
1. Preparatory stage
Door Installation Tool
The set of tools required for the job is shown in the photo.
Tool for installing metal doors
As we see, the need for particularly highly specialized
does not arise in a professional instrument.
Preparing doors for installation
Preparing the purchased door will also not take much
time. It needs to be unpacked and checked for completeness. Check how it works
lock and make sure the hinges can be adjusted. To date
only hinged welded hinges of handicraft are unregulated
production.
Advice. If the door does not have a protective film, it is recommended
protect it with plastic film and stick it on the door frame
masking tape.
Preparing the site for installing doors
Preparing the installation site involves removing furniture from
work sites, removing or protecting floor coverings, removing skirting boards,
design elements dust protection. In addition, it is worth immediately deciding
which side the door should open and take into account the required gap size.
So that in the future the floor covering does not interfere with the operation of the door.
2. Dismantling the old front door
For a new building this stage is not relevant, but when replacing
input iron doors in an apartment or private house it should be treated with
with all responsibility.
Dismantling a metal door takes no more than an hour and
is divided into two components:
- dismantling the door leaf. If the door is installed on
non-removable hinges, you can remove it by opening it and lifting it up. The door is easy
will slip off the hinges. Given the weight of the metal door, it may be necessary
crowbar If the hinges are collapsible, then they need to be disassembled using a screwdriver;
- dismantling the door frame (metal or wood).
It happens that the door frame for a metal door is wooden, then
you need to unscrew all the anchors and remove individual parts from the doorway.
You may have to cut the wood into pieces and remove them using a crowbar.
Most often, the front door is installed in a metal frame. Then you need
cut off the fastening rods and remove the box. And then eliminate all the irregularities
surfaces, remove unnecessary plaster and remove dust.
3. Preparing the doorway for the front door
This stage also differs from the installation of interior doors.
And it has several features:
- The metal entrance door cannot be cut. Usually door
The canvas is sold in standard sizes in increments of 100 mm. Naturally, he
cannot be cut without violating the integrity and appearance. Therefore, to
To install a door, you need to change the parameters of the opening. Standard door width
entrance door opening (metal) 86-96 cm (according to fire safety standards
security). Through such an opening it is convenient to bring furniture, household appliances and
etc. As a rule, most manufactured entrance doors have this width,
so you can just pick up the door.
To reduce the opening, you can install a metal frame
from a channel or square. Scheme for installing a metal entrance door in a wide
the opening is shown in the figure.
The disadvantage of this method is the appearance of cold bridges.
They can be eliminated by arranging and insulating the slopes.
To widen the opening you need to cut down part of the wall. For this
use a grinder. In a house cast from concrete, it is much easier to do such work.
more difficult. Therefore, it is better to calculate the required amount even before purchasing a door leaf.
width.
Advice. Do not use impact methods to expand the opening,
this may cause cracking load-bearing structure building.
- The entrance metal door is heavier. Optimal
The thickness of the metal for the front door is considered to be 2-3 mm. A thinner sheet can be
cut with improvised means. This means that it cannot be installed in any opening.
So, for example, the wall of a brick house or a house built from hollow
blocks, does not have sufficient strength to withstand the weight of metal
doors. In this case, a monolithic concrete portal is cast for the entrance door,
which is connected with reinforcement to the wall. And the door frame is already installed in it.
- The thickness of the door frame exceeds the thickness of the wall. According to
GOST 31173-2003 “Steel door blocks”, the frame cannot be installed in the wall,
whose thickness is less than 150 mm. In this case, you need to think about thickening
walls.
- The load on the floor increases. To do this in the doorway
The strength of the floor covering is checked. If you previously used it during installation
It is better to remove wooden beams or bricks, and clean the place and fill it with concrete.
For a lighter door, you can lay a new brick or one treated with an antiseptic
timber made of durable wood.
At the same stage, communications are arranged. For example, lighting
doorbell, etc.
4. Installation of the door block in the opening
There are several ways to install your own door block
hands.
Door block installation technology - diagrams are presented on
drawing.
The choice of a specific option depends on the features and weight
front door. For understanding, we will briefly describe each method.
Method 1 - installing a door block using mounting plates (eyelets)
Schemes 1-3 in the figure. The most popular installation method
because many manufacturers and shrubs make door frames with
protruding lugs. There are usually three of them on each side post. Box
installed so that the plates are adjacent to the outer part of the wall. A
the technological gap between the door frame and the wall was 10-20 mm.
A hole is drilled in the wall. Its depth depends on
wall thickness and should be 2/3, but not less than 100 mm. Next, through
the hole in the eye is inserted with anchor or plumbing bolts, which
tightened with keys. Quite often, fittings are inserted into the eyes. Sufficient
The thickness of the rod is 12-15 mm.
Advice. For hollow walls, anchor bolts are not used,
and the length of the pin needs to be increased to 500 mm.
For secure fastening, the pin spills out (so that
a cap has formed) or is welded to the eye.
Advice. To make it easier to install a reinforcing pin, you can
sharpen one end of it.
The installation diagram through the eyes is shown in the photo.
Advice. When installing the door, it is better to orient the lugs
inside the room. This will protect you from cutting the door.
Method 2 - installing the door block through the door frame (frame)
Scheme 4 in the figure above or drawing in the figure below.
Used if the door is installed in
opening with internal and external slopes. In this case, the wall thickness
must be at least 150 mm to avoid internal damage.
To install the door block in this way through the mounting
holes in the metal of the door frame are drilled with holes 100-150 deep
mm. An anchor bolt is inserted into them and tightened with a wrench, or it is started
fittings If holes are not provided in the door, they are drilled with a drill.
The size of the technological gap between the wall and the door frame is 5-10 mm.
Advice. When installing the door in this way, take care of
protection of the door covering. Powder coating can be painted over, but polymer coating cannot
recoverable.
Scheme of installing a door block through a frame (door frame)
shown in the photo.
Method 3 - installing a door block by concreting the door frame
The newest one in existence, but already found its own
supporters. Involves concreting the door frame, as shown in
scheme.
The essence of the method is that a hollow door frame is used,
into which the concrete solution is placed.
The installed box is leveled using a level,
anchored (fixed) in the wall using anchors and left until
complete hardening of the solution.
This installation method can be considered super-rigid and
reliable. In addition, its advantages include the absence
the need for grooves and drilling of walls, as well as the possibility of installation in
wall with a high curvature.
Installation of a metal entrance door - rules
Choosing one method or another does not mean that
the metal entrance door will be installed correctly. When performing installation
you must adhere to the following sequence of work with mandatory
using a building level or plumb line.
- measure the width of the door in three places (top, bottom, middle);
- install the door frame strictly level. This will allow
avoid distortions in the future. Initially fix the door against the wall with
using wedges. This will help you correct it simply and in a timely manner.
position. In this case, it is recommended to place the wedges as close to the corners as possible,
so as not to damage the coating of the box;
Advice. The vertical must be checked from the outside and from the inside
sides of the box.
- drill holes in the wall. The hole sizes should be
match the dimensions of fasteners;
- insert pins or bolts into the holes and securely fasten them;
- ensure that the threshold is tightly connected to the floor. After all, on him
will bear the greatest load;
- install door hinges, lubricate them, remove unnecessary
(excess) lubricant.
5. Hanging the entrance metal door
The door must be installed with the required clearances.
The size of the door gaps in the door frame is constant along the entire perimeter. This
to ensure the normal functioning of all locking mechanisms and
loops
After the door is installed, its ease is checked
opening and adjustable hinges. We'll tell you how to do it right.
How to adjust the hinges on the front door
To adjust the door hinges you need to release everything
fasteners on the middle loop, and on the bottom and top, one at a time, leave tightened.
If the gap exceeds the norm from above, then it is necessary
loosen the fasteners on the bottom hinge. Once the door leaf is installed
correctly, you need to fix the loose screw on the top hinge, and then
the remaining screws are on the bottom hinge. After this, the screws are secured to the top
loop and lastly on the middle one.
Advice. You can check the quality of installation of the front door
in the following way. Place a sheet of paper on the threshold or counter and close the door.
Pull the sheet. It should pull out with some effort.
6. Filling technological gaps with foam
Before you start filling the gaps between the door with foam
frame and wall, many professionals advise removing the door leaf so as not to
do not allow foam to get on it. However, experts advise covering it with film.
and blow out the openings with the door closed. This will prevent you from overdoing it with foam,
which can inflate even a metal box.
Advice. If there are significant gaps between the wall and
It is better to seal them with foam plastic in a box, and only then foam them.
Within 24 hours the foam will harden completely and it will be possible to
cutting down. If wooden wedges protrude, it is recommended to cut them off and not
under no circumstances score. This may lead to deformation of the door frame,
which can only be eliminated by performing the work again.
Advice. The threshold should not be blown with foam. She will collapse from
constant loads. It is better to seal the base and cracks with concrete.
Installation of metal entrance doors - video instructions
7. Decorative design of the entrance metal door and opening
Includes design (finishing) of slopes, fastening
platbands, installing a door closer, etc.
8. Caring for the metal entrance door
A properly installed metal door does not need
care, lubrication. Therefore, all care comes down to careful use and care.
door leaf from the inside:
- When powder painting you can use aggressive detergents
facilities;
- when finishing with vinyl leather and MDF panels, it is better
use a damp cloth without chemicals;
- When decorating with laminate, you can use any type
care, the main thing is to wipe the door dry;
- when using veneer in door decoration, it is better to use it for
cleaning special polishes for wood;
- Use a soft cloth to clean the handle and locks, and
The moving part of the lock is periodically lubricated with technical petroleum jelly.
Conclusion
This manual contains all the details for installing the input
metal door. By adhering to the recommendations outlined, everyone will benefit from
force to fulfill correct installation DIY iron door.
Tags: Doors Entrance doors Steel door
Metal steel entrance doors are very popular among both new residents and owners of old homes. Wooden entrance doors, which have served well for many years, are gradually disappearing from our staircases.
The advantages of steel entrance doors over wooden ones are obvious, and companies producing them work tirelessly. Typically, these companies take on the work of measuring and installing their products, sometimes for free, but more often charging a certain amount for it.
However, installing an entrance door is within the capabilities of a skilled owner. But, even without thinking about installing it yourself, it is better to know some rules in order to competently supervise the work of the installers.
How to install a door correctly: technology
Before starting installation, you need to sensibly assess your strengths and prepare necessary tool.
You should also keep in mind that installing iron doors yourself will void the warranty on these same doors.
So, we need the following tool:
- building level;
- a medium-sized nail puller or a small crowbar (popularly called a “crowbar”);
- electric impact drill or hammer drill.
All work can be divided into three stages: dismantling the old door, preparing the opening and actually installing the metal door with your own hands.
- We remove the door leaf from its hinges and remove it away from the work site.
- Next we proceed to dismantling the door frame. It is advisable to immediately remove all nails so that the box can easily leave its place. If you can’t get the nails out, you need to saw the side posts approximately in the middle and tear them off with a crowbar.
- After this, the top and bottom parts of the box are easily removed.
- We beat off all the old plaster and the remaining mortar, remove protruding nails and pieces of thermal insulation.
If the measurements of the new door were taken correctly, then the doorway should be slightly wider than the size of the door. This is necessary so that there is room for alignment horizontally and vertically. If a mistake was made during the measurements, you will have to work hard.
- We expand the narrowed doorway using a hammer drill or grinder with a special stone circle.
- We narrow the wide opening with durable mortar based on high-grade cement.
- After this, you need to thoroughly clean the area for the next stage of work.
DIY metal door installation
- We start by installing the door frame. We first secure the box in the opening with wooden wedges.
- Using a building level, we install the box stand with hinges strictly vertically. We eliminate possible deviations using wedges.
- Through the mounting holes in the rack, we drill the wall with a 10–15 mm drill to a depth of at least 150–200 mm. We insert anchor bolts into the resulting sockets and once again check the position of the rack with a level.
- If everything is in order, tighten the anchors and cover their heads with decorative plugs to match the color of the box.
- We hang the metal door leaf, having previously lubricated the hinges.
- We secure all the fittings: door locks, handles, etc. We close the door and check the gaps between the door leaf and the pillar (they should not exceed 2 - 4 mm).
- We check the operation of locks and latches. We eliminate inaccuracies with the same wooden wedges.
- We drill holes through the rack for the anchor bolts and fasten the second rack in the same way as the first.
- Once again we check the smoothness of opening and closing the door, the softness of the locks.
- We fill all the voids between the box and the wall with polyurethane foam. After the foam has completely hardened (this is about 24 hours), cut off the excess foam with a mounting knife.
- We plaster and putty the opening.
Now you can start
A correctly installed entrance door not only ensures the safety of property, but also reduces heat loss (due to insulation of the frame) and reduces the audibility of what is happening outside the house or apartment. First of all, you should know that installing the front door yourself is possible. Moreover, you can do everything alone, but if the canvas is heavy, it’s easier to work together. There is nothing complicated in the technology itself, but there are several features that you need to know before starting installation yourself.
Preparation for installation
Before installation begins, the old door must be removed. This must be done carefully, trying not to damage the opening too much. Then the installation of the front door will go quickly.
Removing the old door
First, remove the door leaf. If the model has removable hinges, the doors are opened, a crowbar is placed under the lower edge of the leaf, and the doors are lifted from the hinges. If the hinges are not removable, you will have to unscrew them. It's better to start from the bottom.
Afterwards, the slopes are dismantled, the wallpaper is removed, and the plaster or putty is beaten off. The task is to determine how the box was attached, to find the attachment points. If the door frame is metal, usually these are anchors or pieces of reinforcement. At the junctions they are cut with a grinder. When all the fasteners are cut off, the old box is squeezed out or knocked out. But with this procedure there is no need to make excessive efforts: you can destroy the box so much that it will need to be repaired.
If the frame of the old front door is wooden, everything is simpler. The side posts can be cut approximately in the middle, and then, prying them with a crowbar, they can be broken out of the opening. Once the side panels are removed, the lintel can be easily removed. The threshold can also be removed without any problems.
Preparing the opening
After the old door is removed, the doorway is prepared for installation. First, remove all pieces of putty, brick fragments, etc. Get rid of anything that might fall off. Then the resulting opening is evaluated. If there are large voids, they are filled with bricks set in cement mortar. Small potholes can be ignored. If there are cracks, it is better to cover them with a solution too.
Any significant protrusions that may interfere with installation must be removed. You can use a hammer and chisel or a grinder with a cutting disc.
Carefully inspect the condition of the floor under the door frame. In old buildings, a wooden beam is installed in this place. Often it is already rotten and crumbled. If so, delete it.
If the block still looks intact, check the condition of the wood with an awl. With considerable effort, you stick several into the wood, shake them a few times, and take them out. So you check in different parts of the timber. If it enters with difficulty, to a shallow depth, the hole remains small, then everything is fine. If not, it fits in easily, the swaying causes it to crumple and/or crumble, and the wood has become unusable. It also needs to be removed.
The vacated space is filled with the same timber (treated with impregnation against rotting) and laid with bricks. The gaps are filled with solution.
As a result of all these actions, the doorway should be more or less even. So that you can install a new front door without interference.
Installation of metal doors
Steel (metal) doors are most often used as entrance doors. The door frame, door frame and outer surface of the door leaf are made of metal. To ensure the required degree of heat and sound insulation, the canvas is laid with soundproofing material. On the side of the room, the entrance doors can also be covered with metal, or with sheet material (a budget option).
Rubber insulation is laid on the frame along the perimeter of the vestibule (sometimes on the door leaf). It performs two functions: it serves to seal and reduces the strength of the sound that occurs when the door slams. The result is a reliable, warm and “quiet” entrance door.
Preparing the door
Since it is problematic to embed a lock into a metal door, doors are ordered immediately with a lock. You receive a kit that includes a pre-installed lock. Handles come separately. Here they need to be installed in place, screwed with self-tapping screws. Before installation, you need to check the operation of locks and latches. Everything should work smoothly, without effort or problems. If everything is fine, you can begin installing the metal entrance door.
If the doors are installed with access directly to the street (in a private house, for example), the outside of the door frame is lined with insulation. You can use rock wool cut into strips. It is inserted into the frame and held in place by elastic force. It has a significant disadvantage: it is hygroscopic, which is why the doors can rust from the inside (if they stand as an exit to the street and are not tightly sealed). In multi-storey buildings this is not critical: here there is no precipitation in the entrance. Another solution is to install polystyrene foam or fill the frame with foam. They are not afraid of moisture, and the thermal insulation is normal.
To ensure that the paintwork of the box is not damaged during installation and subsequent finishing work, it is covered with masking tape around its perimeter. It is removed after it is made. If there are any wires coming through the door frame, it’s time to install mortgages - a piece plastic pipe or a corrugated sleeve through which these wires will enter inside.
Installation in brick and concrete walls
It is more convenient to install doors in which the panel can be removed. Before installation, it is removed from its hinges. The door frame is inserted into the prepared opening. At the bottom it is placed on mounting pads 20 mm high. She should stand in the opening freely.
By changing the thickness of the pads, we ensure that the lower frame is strictly level. This is checked using a building level. Having set it horizontally, we set it vertically: so that the racks do not deviate either forward or backward, but stand strictly vertically. This is also checked using a level, only the device with a bubble is located on the short part of the tool. Another option is to check with a plumb line.
After the box is level, it is wedged using prepared wedges. They can be cut from wood, or you can buy plastic ones. The wedges are inserted on long posts, three in number, two at the top. They should be placed close to the fastening points, but without blocking them.
After installing the wedges, check once again whether it is positioned correctly: in the horizontal and vertical planes. There should be no deviations.
Next, the installation of the metal door frame in the opening begins. There are two types of mounting holes: steel eyes welded to the box and a through mounting hole (there are actually two of them: in the outer plate with a slightly larger diameter and in the inner plate with a smaller diameter).
There is no difference in the installation method. Simply frames with holes in the body of the box can be installed on thinner walls. This may be important if the entrance door is installed in a panel house: it is not always possible to install doors with lugs in them.
Through-hole mounting
Iron entrance doors are secured to anchors or to pieces of steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The diameter of the fastener is selected to match the existing holes. If anchors are used, their head should fit into the outer hole and “get stuck” in the inner one. The diameter of the fittings must match the diameter of the holes. In any case, holes are pre-drilled for them.
We take a hammer drill, a drill and an anchor. The drill is of the same diameter as the fastener. Its length should be at least 30 cm. To more accurately determine the depth to which you need to drill, masking tape is attached to the drill. It marks a distance that is slightly greater than the required depth.
The installation of fasteners begins on the hinge side. When drilling, it is important not to move installed box. First they drill from the top.
Install the anchor, finishing it off with a hammer. To recess it to the inner edge of the box, insert a screwdriver into the slots and tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer. Then, when the anchor is driven in, it is tightened a few more turns with a screwdriver. We check whether the box has been moved during work - take a level and check everything.
We install the fasteners below in the same way. We also check verticals and horizontals. If the door leaf is not heavy, you can already check at this stage how correctly the frame is positioned. To do this, hang the doors and check how smoothly they “sit”, whether there are any distortions, cracks and other troubles, how well the locks and latches match and work properly.
If the canvas is made of thick sheet steel, weighs about a hundred kilograms, two fastenings are clearly not enough. Then install all the fasteners on the hinge side, as well as one on the lock side. After installing each fastener, the verticality and horizontality of the box is checked. Then they carefully hang the canvas and check how it “moves”. If everything is fine, continue installing the fasteners. No - you'll have to take it off already installed mounts and set the frame anew.
We place the anchor in the door frame of the front door from below, checking the verticality of the post
After checking, the canvas is removed again, and the already installed anchors are finally tightened. Then they put everything that is needed on the hinge side, then on the lock side. When everything is finally installed, the door leaf is hung in place again.
Now you need to fill the installation gaps with foam. To install an entrance door with your own hands, it is better to take one with a low expansion coefficient: it is easier to work with. In order for the polymerization of the foam to proceed normally, the cavities that will be filled are moistened with water from a spray bottle (ordinary household). Then everything is slowly filled with foam.
You need to blow it across the entire width of the door frame: then there will be no blowing and the sound insulation will be better. When installing a door with iron, you don’t have to worry about the frame breaking apart: the rigidity of the metal is such that the expansion force of the foam is far from insufficient. Therefore, you can foam generously.
Only if foam gets on the canvas should it be removed immediately with a damp cloth. After 5 minutes, you just won’t be able to wipe it off. While wet, it can be removed without leaving a trace. Then you will have to scrape, but this is not painless: traces will remain. Polymerization of the foam will end after 24 hours. Then we can consider that installing the front door with our own hands is completed. Left .
Installation of a box with lugs
If there are welded plates on the box - lugs - the box is placed in the same way: on pads. Then it is leveled and wedged. Then there are two options:
When installing using this method, you need to control the position of the box even more carefully: it is easy to move it from its place. If not corrected, the doors will not work well.
Installing an entrance door in a wooden house
IN wooden house any windows and doors are not mounted directly to the wall, but through a casing or frame. A pigtail is a wooden beam that is movably attached to a log house (made of logs or timber, it doesn’t matter). It is connected by a tongue/groove connection and is held in place by elastic force. The door frame is already attached to this beam.
This is a necessary measure. After all, a wooden house constantly changes height. For the first five years it shrinks due to shrinkage and compaction of the planting seams. The first year, doors and windows are not installed at all: too big changes. In the second year, changes become less pronounced, but are always present. Therefore, it is impossible to firmly fasten the doors: they can jam or bend, or they will interfere with the normal shrinkage of the log house.
To do this, a groove is cut out in the doorway. They make a casing from timber in the shape of the letter “T”. The width of the groove should be slightly less than the thickness of the tenon: so that they hold well. They insert it into the spike, driving it in with a sledgehammer. That's all. No other fasteners.
Please note: the height of the racks is much less than the height of the opening: after installing the lintel there should be at least 3 cm left for the compensation gap. It is covered with mineral wool. This is also necessary to ensure that the doors do not warp when shrinking.
Installation of an entrance door in a wooden house, sectional view
After installing the casing, a box is attached to it. There is no need to use anchors here. You need powerful self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. It is also necessary to drill holes for them, but take a drill slightly smaller in diameter. Please note: the length of the fasteners should not reach the wall (you can see this in the photo above).
This video shows how to casing, forming a groove in the opening.
This video shows another type of making a socket: a spike is formed in the opening. With a chainsaw, everything is done quickly, but this level of proficiency is accessible to few.
Installing an entrance door in aerated concrete
Another construction material with special features - aerated concrete. It doesn’t hold up well against impact loads, so you won’t be able to mount the entrance doors like they were in a brick wall: they will simply fall out. The solution is this: make a frame from a metal corner that will be held on the wall by a stop.
In this case, jumpers that tighten two corners are made in those places where the fasteners will be located - eyes or mounting holes. And it is on these jumpers that the door will be held.
Features of installation and design of metal doors are in the video.
The second installation method is less common. It requires less time and materials. But how securely an entrance door installed using this technology will stand is unknown. No data yet.
Depending on the thickness of the wall, there are two ways to attach the front door:
- On mounting plates;
- Inside the walls.
Mounting on mounting plates
3-4 plates protrude from the sides of the door frame. They have holes for driving steel rods. The box must be aligned with the outer plane of the walls. There should be a gap of 1-2 cm on each side for alignment, which is done with wedges. Steel rods are driven into the holes using a sledgehammer, then the ends of the rods are either welded to the box or riveted. Instead of steel rods, reinforcement or anchor bolts are suitable. As a rule, this method is used in apartments.
Mounting inside walls
Please note that This method is only suitable for walls with a thickness of at least 20 cm. Otherwise, the door frame structure will be very vulnerable in the wall (the probability of tearing out is very high). Therefore, this method is used mainly in private homes. The door frame is secured through holes inside it. If the holes are provided by the manufacturer, then the rods are driven into them and closed with plugs. If there are no holes, they are drilled independently, and after driving in the rods, they are assigned from the inside through the side holes in the box. Do not forget about the technological gap of 1 cm on each side. The cross-section of the pins or bolts must be at least 1.5 cm (preferably 2 cm), and the length must be at least 10 cm (preferably 15 cm).
Metal entrance door installation technology
Installation of the box
First of all, it needs to be fixed using wooden wedges, which should be slightly thicker than the technological gaps. They need to be driven between the opening and the frame and the level checked. You need to start installing the box from the top corner of the hinge side. If everything is good, we drill holes in the wall through the mounting plates (depth about 10 cm, diameter about 1.5 cm), into which we then hammer steel pins or bolts. Next, the pins are welded to the mounting plates. It is advisable to check the level of the box again.
Inserting the door into the hinges
First you need to lubricate the hinges and put bearings in them (balls should be included in the kit). Then we put the door on the hinges and check the smoothness of movement (by obviously tightening the fittings). You also need to maintain a uniform gap of 2-4 mm across the entire height between the door on the lock side and the frame. Check the tight fit of the door to the frame when closed (there should be no blowing from under the rubber seals). If everything is good, then we finally tighten the bolts or carefully finish off the rods in the plates of the box and weld them.
Foaming gaps
If you are concerned about the box becoming dirty, you can apply masking tape around the perimeter of the box. Then be sure (!) to moisten the gap with water so that the foam adheres as firmly as possible to the box and the opening. For better and even application of foam, we recommend using a mounting gun. After foaming, leave the opening to dry for a day or at least overnight (the door should be closed). Then cut off the excess foam with a utility knife, remove the tape, and plaster the uneven walls.
How to adjust a metal entrance door
You just need to experiment with turning the screws. If the door jams at the bottom, then the lower fasteners are adjusted, and vice versa. Different articles recommend different ways to adjust the screws. But, since manufacturers fix door hinges differently, you can only determine the correct screw for adjustment on site.
Here is one option: if the hinge is fastened with 3 screws, then first loosen the outer ones, and then adjust the middle one.