This article describes step by step the process of installing and connecting halogen wardrobe lighting, and also provides recommendations for selecting cross section and permissible wire length for connecting 12-volt lamps when using an electronic power supply.
To power halogen furniture lighting, a voltage of 12 volts that is safe for humans is often used, since touching such a bare wire is practically not felt. Despite low power lighting devices (in our case, the total power of the lamps is 60 W), the current in such circuits is much greater than in 220-volt circuits of similar power. Let's calculate the current in the primary circuit of the power supply (220 V). In our case, the current is 60 W/220 V = 0.27 A. The current in the secondary circuit (12 V) is 60 W/12 V = 5 A.
As you can see, the current in the secondary circuit is 18.5 times greater than in the primary circuit. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully select the cable cross-section for this type of lighting. In selecting the cross-section, it is also important which transformer is used to reduce the voltage: electronic or induction. In our case, an electronic power supply is used. For such a unit, the permissible length of wires in the secondary circuit (12 V) should not exceed two meters.
To select the wire cross-section for the secondary circuit, use the instructions in the documentation for the transformer, or use the values given in this table.
Section selection table copper cable up to 2 meters long depending on the total load power:
Preparing for work
To install wardrobe lighting we will need the following materials:
- two-wire copper wire, s = 0.75 mm 2 (we select the section according to the table) - 5 m;
- halogen lamps(P = 20 W) - 3 pcs.;
- electronic transformer alternating current 12 volts (P = 20-60 W) - 1 pc.;
- switch - 1 pc.;
- terminal blocks (I = 3 A, s = 4 mm2) - 9 pcs.;
- self-adhesive cable staples - 10 pcs.
To complete the work you will need the following set of tools:
- flathead screwdriver;
- indicator screwdriver;
- side cutters;
- soldering iron;
- Double-sided tape;
- soldering kit (rosin, solder);
- ladder.
Let's get started
Connection diagram for halogen lamps:
When ordering a wardrobe seats for halogen lamps were prepared in advance.
Connect the wire to the switch. To do this, you need to open its case. We do this by carefully prying it around the perimeter with a screwdriver.
Using side cutters, remove the outer layer of insulation from the cable, strip the wire strands and twist them.
We tin the wire strands and apply solder to them.
Initially, the switch was supplied with a section of wire and a plug for the socket. Since the original wire was not the right length, it was decided to remove it and solder the new wire to the existing terminals. This allowed us to avoid additional connections.
Clean the switch terminals. We tin them and solder the wire strands. It is important that the rosin does not come into contact with the switch contact. If this happens, it can be removed by wiping the contact with alcohol.
Carefully lay the wires inside the switch housing and assemble it.
Now it is important to decide on the location where the switch will be installed. Since it does not have much aesthetic value, it would be logical to install it in an inconspicuous place. In our case, the gap between the right wall of the cabinet and the wall was chosen. We place the switch on the cabinet wall with double-sided tape.
In order to hide the wire behind the cabinet wall, we secure it with self-adhesive staples. To do this, remove the protective layer from the adhesive surface of the bracket and stick it on the cabinet wall. After this we fix the wire. We install the staples at intervals of 0.5 meters.
We install halogen lamps in the holes in the top cover of the cabinet.
Since the gap between the ceiling and the top lid of the cabinet is quite small, it is extremely inconvenient to carry out work there. Therefore, we will collect the parts in a place convenient for us. And then we will transfer everything assembled to the cabinet.
We measure a piece of wire from lamp to lamp and cut it off. There should be two wires in total: from left to center (wire No. 1) and from center to right (wire No. 2).
We strip the ends of wire No. 1 and attach the terminal block to them. This will be the point to attach the leftmost light fixture.
We twist two wires (No. 1 and No. 2) together and connect them with a terminal block. This will be the terminal block for connecting the central lamp.
We connect the ends of wire No. 2 to the 12-volt outputs of the electronic transformer using a terminal block. Which wire goes where doesn't matter. This will be the terminal block for connecting the right lamp.
As a result, we get a wire with terminals connected in parallel.
We fix the terminal block to a 220 V wire that was previously laid in the wall to connect the cabinet lighting. To do this, be sure to remove the power from the wire!
We supply power to the wire. Using an indicator screwdriver, we determine the phase on the input wire. After turning off the power supply, we make the final connections. The phase will go through the switch to electronic transformer to the wire marked L. The neutral wire from the transformer (N) is connected through the terminal block to the neutral wire of the existing 220 V wire. Installation is carried out according to the previously indicated diagram. Having connected all the wires, we secure them to the cabinet lid using brackets. The power supply can be secured with double-sided tape.
We position the terminals so that wires from halogen lamps can be connected to them.
We connect the lamps to the terminals. Which wire goes to which terminal does not matter.
We check the completed work. We serve food. We turn on the lamps using the switch.
Result of work
Lighting works correctly. The wires are hidden behind the top cover of the cabinet, the switch is not visible, but it is convenient to use. During long-term operation, the wire does not overheat, since the cross-section is correctly selected. Thanks to the compact placement of wires on the top lid of the cabinet, it will be easy to clean. Since the wire is secured with staples, there is no risk of disturbing the electrical connections during cleaning.
In this article I will describe in detail the advantages and disadvantages of lighting in a closet. I will list the types of this kind of lighting. I'll tell you how to make lighting yourself. I'll give step by step instructions for lighting installation.
Advantages and disadvantages of wardrobe lighting
The main advantage of using additional lighting in a wardrobe is considered to be not only the creation of a comfortable environment, but also the originality of interior decoration. If you use these small light bulbs wisely, you can realize any design ideas and make your room simply unique.
Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the additional energy consumption. Although this problem can be easily fixed by using LEDs. They are economical and have a low radiation dose.
Types of lighting
LEDs are more economical halogen lamps.
To illuminate furniture cabinets you can use:
- halogen lamps. But they require careful attention. Do not touch the glass bulbs of the lamp with your hands, otherwise they will quickly fail. Such lighting does not tolerate voltage surges, so it is important to install a stabilizer. But most importantly, the lamp can reach temperatures of up to 500 degrees Celsius. Therefore, all fire safety measures must be observed;
- LEDs, which, although they are more expensive, are more economical in operation. Moreover, they are compact and durable. The level of infrared radiation is minimal. This means that the lamps are harmless to human health and will not heat up, reducing the risk of fire. LEDs are made of heavy-duty materials, so they will last for many years.
LED products are divided into:
- mortise, which are installed in a pre-prepared place;
- invoices, which are installed on the surface of furniture using self-tapping screws or double-sided tape.
The LED strip, which is usually used on narrow furniture panels, deserves special attention. With its help you can illuminate drawers and shelves in hard-to-see places.
When choosing lighting for furniture, first of all you need to decide on the color of the lighting. The most commonly used color is white. Although there are options from red to yellow. It all depends on the design idea.
How to make lighting in a closet with your own hands
The most popular lighting option is LED strip. Let's take a closer look at its installation.
The interior lighting of the sliding wardrobe can be additionally equipped with a motion sensor, as well as an ultrasonic sensor. Moreover, in the latter option, the lighting will work only after opening the cabinet door, and not when people are simply near it.
To assemble the LED circuit and connect it to the power supply, it is recommended:
- Cut the required amount of tape at the appropriate location where the dotted line of the scissors indicates.
- Prepare a wire of the required cross-section. For a five-meter tape you need 1.5 mm. If the tape is longer, you will have to calculate it using the formula. And the connection diagram for such an LED will be more complicated. If you connect all the pieces in series with each other, individual segments can heat up.
- Use alcohol to degrease the LED contacts.
- Strip and tin the wires.
- Solder the red wire of the terminal to the “+” and the blue wire to the “-“. If you mix it up, the light won't come on.
- Use heat shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints. Replace heat shrink tube You can use a glue gun.
- Referring to the color code, connect the wires LED strip to the power supply.
Let's start installing the tape:
- Measure the required length of tape. Moreover, this must be done in special places. Be careful.
- Where you need to mount LEDs attach a plastic corner 10*10 mm. It will allow you to hide the tape itself and will not spoil appearance closet
- Connect the wiring to the cabinet. To do this, you need to make a hole in an inconspicuous place. If each shelf is intended to be illuminated, an additional hole must be made in the corner so that the cable can be lowered lower along the cabinet.
- Place the cable ducts on liquid nails and hide the wire in them.
- Stick the LED strip on the corner and turn on the power supply. After all, install the limit switches and the backlight is ready.
Having illuminated your closet, you will no longer need to use a floor lamp or lamp to illuminate the work surface and search for underwear on the shelf. And if you use high-quality devices and do everything according to our instructions, you will be able to enjoy the practicality of opening the door and the functionality of this type of lighting for a long time.
This article describes step-by-step the process of installing and connecting halogen lighting in a wardrobe, and also provides recommendations for selecting the cross-section and permissible wire length for connecting 12-volt lamps when using an electronic power supply.
To power halogen furniture lighting, a voltage of 12 volts that is safe for humans is often used, since touching such a bare wire is practically not felt. Despite the low power of the lighting fixtures (in our case, the total power of the lamps is 60 W), the current in such circuits is much greater than in 220-volt circuits of similar power. Let's calculate the current in the primary circuit of the power supply (220 V). In our case, the current is 60 W/220 V = 0.27 A. The current in the secondary circuit (12 V) is 60 W/12 V = 5 A.
As you can see, the current in the secondary circuit is 18.5 times greater than in the primary circuit. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully select the cable cross-section for this type of lighting. In selecting the cross-section, it is also important which transformer is used to reduce the voltage: electronic or induction. In our case, an electronic power supply is used. For such a unit, the permissible length of wires in the secondary circuit (12 V) should not exceed two meters.
To select the wire cross-section for the secondary circuit, use the instructions in the documentation for the transformer, or use the values given in this table.
Table for selecting the cross-section of a copper cable up to 2 meters long, depending on the total load power:
Preparing for work
To install wardrobe lighting we will need the following materials:
- two-core copper wire, s = 0.75 mm 2 (we select the cross-section according to the table) - 5 m;
- halogen lamps (P = 20 W) - 3 pcs.;
- electronic AC transformer 12 volts (P = 20-60 W) - 1 pc.;
- switch - 1 pc.;
- terminal blocks (I = 3 A, s = 4 mm2) - 9 pcs.;
- self-adhesive cable staples - 10 pcs.
To complete the work you will need the following set of tools:
- flathead screwdriver;
- indicator screwdriver;
- side cutters;
- soldering iron;
- Double-sided tape;
- soldering kit (rosin, solder);
- ladder.
Let's get started
Connection diagram for halogen lamps:
When ordering a wardrobe, the seats for halogen lamps were prepared in advance.
Connect the wire to the switch. To do this, you need to open its case. We do this by carefully prying it around the perimeter with a screwdriver.
Using side cutters, remove the outer layer of insulation from the cable, strip the wire strands and twist them.
We tin the wire strands and apply solder to them.
Initially, the switch was supplied with a section of wire and a plug for the socket. Since the original wire was not the right length, it was decided to remove it and solder the new wire to the existing terminals. This allowed us to avoid additional connections.
Clean the switch terminals. We tin them and solder the wire strands. It is important that the rosin does not come into contact with the switch contact. If this happens, it can be removed by wiping the contact with alcohol.
Carefully lay the wires inside the switch housing and assemble it.
Now it is important to decide on the location where the switch will be installed. Since it does not have much aesthetic value, it would be logical to install it in an inconspicuous place. In our case, the gap between the right wall of the cabinet and the wall was chosen. We place the switch on the cabinet wall with double-sided tape.
In order to hide the wire behind the cabinet wall, we secure it with self-adhesive staples. To do this, remove the protective layer from the adhesive surface of the bracket and stick it on the cabinet wall. After this we fix the wire. We install the staples at intervals of 0.5 meters.
We install halogen lamps in the holes in the top cover of the cabinet.
Since the gap between the ceiling and the top lid of the cabinet is quite small, it is extremely inconvenient to carry out work there. Therefore, we will collect the parts in a place convenient for us. And then we will transfer everything assembled to the cabinet.
We measure a piece of wire from lamp to lamp and cut it off. There should be two wires in total: from left to center (wire No. 1) and from center to right (wire No. 2).
We strip the ends of wire No. 1 and attach the terminal block to them. This will be the point to attach the leftmost light fixture.
We twist two wires (No. 1 and No. 2) together and connect them with a terminal block. This will be the terminal block for connecting the central lamp.
We connect the ends of wire No. 2 to the 12-volt outputs of the electronic transformer using a terminal block. Which wire goes where doesn't matter. This will be the terminal block for connecting the right lamp.
As a result, we get a wire with terminals connected in parallel.
We fix the terminal block to a 220 V wire that was previously laid in the wall to connect the cabinet lighting. To do this, be sure to remove the power from the wire!
We supply power to the wire. Using an indicator screwdriver, we determine the phase on the input wire. After turning off the power supply, we make the final connections. The phase will go through the switch to the electronic transformer to the wire marked L. The neutral wire from the transformer (N) is connected through the terminal block to the neutral wire of the existing 220 V wire. Installation is carried out according to the previously indicated diagram. Having connected all the wires, we secure them to the cabinet lid using brackets. The power supply can be secured with double-sided tape.
We position the terminals so that wires from halogen lamps can be connected to them.
We connect the lamps to the terminals. Which wire goes to which terminal does not matter.
We check the completed work. We serve food. We turn on the lamps using the switch.
Result of work
Lighting works correctly. The wires are hidden behind the top cover of the cabinet, the switch is not visible, but it is convenient to use. During long-term operation, the wire does not overheat, since the cross-section is correctly selected. Thanks to the compact placement of wires on the top lid of the cabinet, it will be easy to clean. Since the wire is secured with staples, there is no risk of disturbing the electrical connections during cleaning.
The lighting can be installed in any type of cabinet: traditional, wardrobe, kitchen furniture, bathroom cabinets and even shoe racks.
Types of cabinet lighting
On modern market furniture presented the most different types lighting for cabinets. This makes it possible to choose the option that seems most acceptable to the owner of the furniture.
There are four main types of cabinet lighting:
- halogen lamps;
- LED lights;
- fluorescent lamps;
- LED Strip Light.
Halogen cabinet lighting
Halogen lamps are the most common way to organize lighting in a closet. They are designs based on halogen lamps.
A halogen lamp is an incandescent lamp filled with a special gas (iodine or bromine vapor). It allows you to extend the service life of the product and significantly increase the heating temperature of the coil - up to 500.
Despite their brightness, halogen lamps have a number of significant disadvantages:
- high heating temperatures can melt the material from which the cabinet is made, as well as cause the evaporation of harmful substances. Therefore, halogen lamps are rarely built-in;
- they should not be touched with hands, otherwise greasy marks may remain on the lamp that cannot be erased;
- The halogen cabinet light is sensitive to even small power surges.
The best option for halogen lighting for a cabinet is several overhead lamps placed on its visor.
LED cabinet lighting
LED lighting combines several advantages: efficiency, durability, safety and high quality lighting.
LEDs are semiconductor devices with an electron-hole junction that generate light by passing electricity through it. This is the safest and most environmentally friendly lighting option.
LED lamps can be made in the form of a set of three or more individual light bulbs, as well as in the form of a line - long lamp with several diodes arranged in a row.
Unlike halogen and fluorescent lamps, LEDs do not tend to get very hot. Therefore, they are ideal for organizing built-in lighting in cabinets made of any material (including chipboard), since they do not cause melting of the material and do not lead to the evaporation of phenol and other harmful substances.
Fluorescent backlight
Fluorescent lighting is used quite rarely. As a rule, it is used to illuminate the space in front of mirrors or as part of a trampoline rod.
Fluorescent lamps are gas-discharge light sources. The principle of their operation is to generate ultraviolet radiation by current discharges in mercury vapor. They are converted into light radiation using a special substance - phosphor. As a rule, it is a mixture of calcium halophosphate with other elements.
The main disadvantage of such lamps is the mercury content, which can cause serious harm to human health if the product breaks.
Mercury is classified as a class 1 toxic substance, so disposal of burnt-out fluorescent lamps in the usual way unacceptable as it is harmful to the environment.
Cabinet lighting with LED strip
An LED strip is a flexible board with contacts on which small diodes are located in a row. It is one of the most convenient lighting options and is often used for decorative purposes.
LED strip is sold in skeins of 5 meters or by meter. It is recommended to take accurate measurements before purchasing a backlight.
Exist different variants LED strips that allow you to implement almost any idea in organizing furniture lighting:
- self-adhesive - it can be independently attached to various surfaces;
- waterproof – perfect option for cabinets installed in rooms with high humidity, for example, in baths;
- multi-colored RGB tape is an interesting option for decoration. In such a tape, you can change the color of the light bulbs using a controller.
Methods for installing lighting devices in a cabinet
The process of installing cabinet lighting requires care. It is advisable to think through its scheme in advance.
If lighting is installed from the mains, the cable can be routed in two ways:
- open - directly on the ceiling and wall;
- closed - using a cable channel.
Depending on the installation method, the following types of cabinet lighting are distinguished:
- mortise - built into pre-cut holes. Most often they are placed in canopies and separate sections of furniture. For a decorative function, lighting can be installed on the facade of the product;
- overhead – attached in those places where it is necessary. They can be of various shapes - square, round, oval, triangular and rectangular.
If bright lighting is required, it is advisable to use overhead lamps - they are more powerful than recessed ones.
Mortise structures are good to use for decorative purposes, but they are much more difficult to install.
Installation locations of lamps in the closet
It is important to decide on the location where the lighting will be located. There are many options for its installation, depending on the purpose of the installation:
- on the doors. Such lighting performs more of a decorative function than a practical one. It can be used not only in a new cabinet - installing lighting on the doors of old furniture can significantly refresh it. As a rule, an LED strip is installed along the contour of the door;
- on the shelves of the closet. Lamps on the shelves illuminate their contents. These can be lamps of any type, except halogen ones - they get very hot and can damage things stored on the shelf;
- on the tramp rod. This solution allows you to illuminate the most spacious and deep compartment of the cabinet. Performed as one long fluorescent lamp or LED line;
- on the cabinet cornice - the protruding upper part of the product. This is a universal option, in which both the space in front of the cabinet and its internal contents are moderately illuminated. Traditionally, cornice lighting is done using several spotlights;
- in the lower base of the cabinet - used to illuminate the lower compartments, such lighting is especially relevant for shoe racks.
Illumination installed along the inner contour of the cabinet is gaining popularity - it allows you to illuminate almost the entire depth of the furniture.
Cabinet lighting controls
When choosing a backlight, pay attention to the control method.
Switches for lighting furniture and wardrobes according to the method of operation can be divided into:
- mechanical
- contactless (touch) switches.
Let's look at specific examples of wardrobe lighting devices, without focusing on the manufacturers, because in general they are similar.
Mechanical switches
Mechanical switches– here a mechanical action is required to turn the wardrobe lighting on and off.
There are options for swing doors and sliding doors.
Touch switches (non-contact)
Sensor switch consists of three parts: a sensitive element, a semiconductor analysis and control circuit, and a switching power section.
When the object of influence approaches the control zone of the sensitive element, a certain signal is generated, which turns into an electrical signal of sufficient power to trigger the switching part. The last part performs closing or opening (or both operations) of a direct or alternating current circuit.
Eg, infrared sensor turns on the lamps connected to it when you enter the sensor’s sensitivity zone (1-1.6 m cm in the figure), and leaves them on until you leave the zone.
The lamps turn off 10-180 seconds after leaving the sensor sensitivity zone. The sensor can be built into a cabinet hood, ceiling, wall, or decorative housing such as a lamp housing. In the latter case, the lamp and sensor will form a single module.
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In general Sensor switch is a semiconductor device that, depending on the position of an observation object remotely removed from it, controls the state of an external electrical circuit connected to it using a built-in switching element. In the case of household touch switches, the object of observation is a person or his hand.
In furniture and wardrobes, touch switches are used, the operation of which is based on three types.
Capacitive switches
Capacitive switches– do not necessarily require pressing a button. This is how this touch switch works. You bring your hand to the so-called active surface of the touch switch (the surface under which the sensitive element is hidden - this is, as a rule, the front side of the switch) at a distance of 40-50 mm, and the device turns on or turns off the light. Some models require you to at least lightly touch the active surface.
Optical switches
Optical switches– work in both conventional and infrared radiation spectrums. The former work as light sensors, the latter as infrared sensors.
The basis of the second version of the optical switch is the sensitive element - a thermal radiation receiver. This is a semiconductor device that responds to infrared radiation. To help the sensitive element detect this radiation, it is surrounded by a collecting plastic lens, which may take the form of a hemispherical cap.
There are two main options infrared sensor for furniture.
The first option is triggered by a wave of the hand; they brought the hand to the sensitive surface at a distance of 2-3 cm from it - the sensor turned on, brought it again, the sensor turned off.
The second option is triggering as a result of the appearance or disappearance of an obstacle, for example, a wardrobe door from the sensor’s field of view. The sensitive area of the sensor itself can be located either on the side or front surface of the sensor body, or on a wire.
High frequency switches
High frequency switches– volume sensors or active type sensors. These sensors are based on modern high-frequency sensor technology.
Sending a signal at 5.8 GHz, the sensors record changes in the reflected signal that occur as a result of the slightest movements of people or objects. With any movement, they are triggered almost instantly and regardless of temperature or direction of movement.
Dimmers for furniture
Dimmers- These are devices for adjusting the brightness of a light source. To adjust the brightness of low-voltage halogen lamps (12 V), that is, those used in furniture, there are special dimmers.
If an induction transformer is used as power supply, then an R type dimmer is used. When using an electronic impulse unit with dimming capabilities, special dimmers are recommended. Control in such dimmers occurs due to the difference in the phases of the current and voltage at the output of the unit. In this case letter designation dimmer and transformer L and C, and the designation of both devices must match.
The lighting is controlled by a button. A short press on the button turns the light on or off; Long press changes brightness.
For the LED strip, special controllers are used that are connected between the power supply and the strip. The brightness changes by changing the duration of the voltage pulses.
The term “controller” is understood as an electronic device designed to issue control signals to controlled objects. Control signals are issued in accordance with the program.