What are adhesive fabric and interlining materials used for, and how to use them?
Adhesive and cushioning materials such as adhesive dublerin, adhesive fabric and adhesive interlining are widely used in sewing clothes, especially shoulder products. They give additional rigidity and shape to parts or areas of clothing, for example, a collar, flap, cuff, etc. Adhesive materials must be used when sewing a jacket, coat, etc. The front, sleeves, and collar of such clothing must “keep their shape” and therefore the fabric it is required to “strengthen” it, to give it additional rigidity.
Such materials (usually fabric-based) have an adhesive coating on one side and are therefore called adhesive fabrics. Not only fabrics, but also materials, such as non-woven fabric, can be adhesive.
This video shows how to duplicate three different types of fabric with fabric adhesive. Each type of fabric (suit, cotton, knitwear) requires a special type of adhesive fabric.
You will no longer need to hem the bottom of your trousers or skirt by hand or using a special machine if you use adhesive double-sided “gossamer” tape.
Often, to give additional rigidity to individual areas of clothing or parts, all kinds of non-adhesive cushioning materials of varying thickness and density are used.
1. Adhesive fabric, purpose and use
The adhesive fabric or duplicating interlining is selected depending on the density and properties of the fabric of the product used for sewing clothing, a section or a part.
The density (stiffness) of adhesive fabric, dublerin, non-woven fabric is selected depending on the type of fabric of the product (suit fabric, dress fabric, shirt fabric).
Adhesive fabrics are installed not only on fabrics, but also on non-woven materials such as leather, fur, drape, etc.
The thickness and density of the gasket must correspond to the base material of the product.
Heavy, dense fabrics require thicker interfacing, such as dublerin.
For thin fabrics you need to use soft types of non-woven fabric.
For stretchable and elastic fabrics, adhesive pads on a knitted basis are suitable; they will not tear when stretched, etc.
In some cases, adhesive fabrics and cushioning materials are used simultaneously. For example, the collar of a men's shirt is not only glued with adhesive fabric, but sometimes non-adhesive rigid pads are installed in the corners of the collar, which allows the corners of the collar to have a rigid truss for many years.
Those who often sew clothes for themselves should definitely have several types of adhesive fabric and non-adhesive cushioning materials in their sewing supplies kit. Two or three types of non-woven fabric, one type of double linen and always transparent web tape.
2. Adhesive interlining materials are available in woven and non-woven types.
Often adhesive fabrics and non-woven materials such as non-woven fabrics are simply called “adhesive”. But this is too general a concept, and in a hardware store, sellers will ask you to clarify what you need, non-woven or double-lined.
Adhesive fabric pads, just like regular fabrics, have a fractional thread direction, and to be precise, they are called fabric-based dublerin. Non-woven adhesive materials are called interlining. It's easy to distinguish them. Dublerin stretches when torn, and non-woven fabric tears like paper.
Dublerin has the direction of the grain thread, so when cutting you need to take this circumstance into account and be sure to pay attention to the recommendations in magazines for ready-made patterns. And if you use your own patterns, then you need to take into account the properties of the gasket for each section of the product separately.
Non-woven pads are a pressed mixture of fibers, so that the sections do not fray. However, even in such gaskets there is a fiber direction. Along the longitudinal web, the gasket stretches slightly less than in the transverse direction.
There are also knitted adhesive fabrics of varying thickness and stiffness. They are elastic and are used for duplicating knitted materials.
Adhesive fabric and non-woven materials come in different densities. From thin and almost transparent to very dense. They can even be painted in different colors.
3. How to select an adhesive pad for fabric
To choose the most suitable adhesive pad, you need to check how the fabric and pad will look. To do this, you first need to glue a test piece of adhesive onto a piece of fabric. Make several samples with different gaskets. The recommended sizes of fabric samples are a square with a side of 15 cm, spacers - with a side of 10 cm.
All adhesive pads become harder after hot processing, but the degree of this hardness may vary, and you will see this in the samples.
The color of the gasket may also change. Some colored gaskets darken after gluing.
In addition, a test piece of glued padding will clearly show how the fabric itself will change. Sometimes the interlining can form noticeable protrusions on the front surface of the fabric or even damage the structure of the fabric, and can change the color of the main fabric.
See how the fabric drapes with and without interlining. Fold all samples in half and place them on the table surface without pressing them. You will see, comparing with a sample without a gasket: on one sample the gasket is very soft, almost imperceptible, on the other - moderate elasticity, on the third - too hard. Now you can choose the adhesive pad that you need for a specific fabric and a specific model.
4. The adhesive pad must adhere firmly to the fabric
It is usually difficult to separate the fabric and the adhesive pad after treatment with a hot iron (fabric-based pads), and in some cases it is completely impossible without leaving a mark on the fabric (mostly non-woven). Make sure that the iron does not touch the adhesive base; it is quite difficult to clean the soleplate of the iron from traces of glue.
There should be no thread scraps, air bubbles or un-glued areas under the gasket.
If you glued the gasket incorrectly, “go” over it with the iron again. If air bubbles still remain, steam the gasket so that it can be separated and glue a new gasket in this place.
If you are using fabric non-adhesive interlining, then before cutting out parts from it, the interfacing material should be decoated. As cushioning material you can use: calico, muslin, lining fabrics.
Knitted interlining materials are usually soft and silky. They can be used to give shape to an entire product or a single part of it, without at the same time increasing the volume, weight or rigidity of the product.
If you want to create an elegant, sophisticated product, never use adhesive pads. The adhesive pad is more suitable for shoulder products such as jackets and coats.
If you are sewing a product from fabrics such as plisse, velvet, corduroy, crepe, gauze, silk or transparent fabric, it is also better not to use an adhesive pad.
5. Fabric duplication should be done according to instructions
The adhesive pad should be applied according to the manufacturer's instructions so that it does not bubble after washing the product. But if you don’t have such instructions, use the following tips:
a) place the product part on the ironing board with the wrong side up;
b) place the gasket part on the product part with the adhesive downwards;
c) cover the gasket with an ironing iron (dry or wet, depending on the properties of the adhesive layer);
d) treat each area of the part with an iron for 10 seconds (without moving it from its place), move the iron to an adjacent area so that the areas being processed overlap; continue these steps until the entire surface of the pad is glued to the fabric (the iron should not slide on the pad while working);
e) turn the product part over, cover with an ironing iron and repeat the gluing process;
f) let the fabric cool and check the adhesion of the gasket to the fabric; if necessary, repeat the entire gluing process again.
6. An oblique strip is sewn into the seam of the part connection
Experienced tailors often use 2.5cm bias strips cut from cotton flannel as interfacing on silk or wool garments to create a soft neckline or armhole.
The oblique strip is sewn into the seam connecting the product part with the facing. To do this, place the product part between the bias strip and the facing. Next, you need to cut the bias strip so that it is even and flat when stitching with the product.
If you use Burda Fashion magazines, you know that the sewing instructions contain the types of adhesive fabric and non-adhesive materials that it is advisable to use for the models presented there. But, so that you can navigate your fabric, familiarize yourself with the properties of German gaskets, which you can purchase in specialized stores.
Non-woven fabric H180 is a thin, soft interlining for soft flowing fabrics (silk, viscose).
Interlining H200, H250 - a denser but soft interlining for dense thin fabrics (taffeta, twill, etc.).
Interlining G405 - for dense fabrics, for example, wool, flannel, velor.
Non-woven fabric H31G - denim, fabric for trousers, jackets and coats.
Non-woven fabric F220 - for dense, boil-resistant fabrics.
7. Gossamer adhesive tape
You now know what adhesive fabric is used for, how to select it for different types of fabrics and how to install it. You also know that interlining is an adhesive cushioning material, and dublerin is an adhesive fabric. It remains to find out what adhesive tape is, with such an elegant name - cobweb.
There are special edge gaskets in the form of tapes of different widths - to strengthen belts, cuffs and trims. In addition, there is a special adhesive material - gossamer. This is a translucent tape with an adhesive coating on both sides. It is convenient to use the adhesive web to secure the hem of the bottom of the product; it can be used to attach a higher-density adhesive pad, applique or patch. It is recommended to stitch the applique after gluing it with a web.
The web is glued in the same way as adhesive fabric with a hot iron. The web is placed between the hem of the skirt and the main fabric and the hem is ironed along the wrong side of the skirt. Make sure that the iron does not touch the web, otherwise it will immediately melt and leave a trace of glue on the sole of the iron.
In order for the button or block to hold on thin fabric more firmly, you can duplicate this area with adhesive fabric from the underside of the fabric (where they will stand). Read about how to install blocks, buttons and other accessories with your own hands in this article.
Sewing stores offer many different tools and sewing supplies. You can do without some of them, but you should definitely have several types of adhesive fabric on hand.
When replacing a zipper, you need to use an adhesive gasket. You need to cut a narrow strip no more than 2 cm wide and duplicate the edge where the zipper will be installed. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the skin with the iron. Duplicating the edge will prevent the leather from stretching when sewing on a zipper on a sewing machine. In order not to use adhesive fabric, a special reinforcing adhesive tape is produced for these purposes.
Fur skins cannot be glued with adhesive cloth using an iron. Leather tissue may be damaged by hot soles. However, as with any other sewing product, reinforcing fabric pads are used for sewing fur clothing. They are sewn to the skin with long oblique stitches.
When working with leather, an adhesive cloth is used. Details such as cuffs, belts, and collars must be backed with pads. Be careful when installing the adhesive cloth onto the leather. The leather can be damaged by using an iron that is too hot.
Non-woven fabric is a popular synthetic fabric, most often used as a cushioning base in finished textile products. Historically, there is an opinion that the technology for its production was created by a certain company from Germany in the century before last. Taking advantage of the idea of paper production, German specialists developed similar processes for processing cellulose fibers, additionally strengthening them with a polymer layer. The result is a dense non-woven fabric with excellent performance characteristics, including high wear resistance, strength and hygroscopicity, and good abrasion resistance.
Application
The scope of application of non-woven fabric also turned out to be very wide - construction, medicine. But it still received the greatest recognition and distribution in the textile industry. As a cushioning material, non-woven fabric is used to create many types of outerwear. It is also found in hats, shoes, and curtain designs.
Types of non-woven fabric
Scientific and technological progress that does not stand still has also affected non-woven fabrics. Many years have passed since the first release. Over such a period of time, many of its types were invented, which are usually divided into two typical varieties:
- adhesive
- non-adhesive.
Each of them has its own personal characteristics and advantages, which further determines their choice. However, the degree of their involvement and preference when sewing is approximately the same, and the choice of one or another option depends on the ideas of the technologists.
Our online store "World of Manufacture" offers the widest range of this sewing accessory. Here you can buy any type of non-woven fabric completely inexpensively at affordable, adequately low prices. The order delivery method is selected individually.
Interlining is a thin non-woven material used to add density to clothing parts. With its help, it is possible to eliminate the deformation of parts, increase the service life and wear resistance of the product. This fabric can also be used in handicrafts, construction, and medicine.
Non-woven fabric has a certain number of properties:
- can be painted white, gray, brown, black;
- has good strength;
- does not deform when wet, the type of non-woven material being removed dissolves in water;
- not subject to creasing;
- easily interacts with chemicals such as varnish, paint, primer;
- refractory;
- moisture resistant;
- eco-friendly.
Non-woven fabric is quite durable and not subject to deformation under different temperature conditions. The properties endowed with adhesive fabric determine its wide scope of application. Non-woven fabric is used in the construction field, using it as a basis for wallpaper and other materials for finishing repair work. The non-adhesive type of non-woven fabric is used for embroidery. Thread-stitched interlining is reinforced with thin threads, which makes it resistant to deformation and adds elasticity, thus allowing it to be used to seal textured fabrics.
There is a classification of non-woven fabric, according to which the material is divided into:
- a thin and soft gasket, which is used for gluing light flowing fabrics (silk, viscose);
- denser, but at the same time soft padding for dense fabrics;
- for dense fabrics such as wool, flannel, velor;
- dense, boil-resistant fabrics.
The adhesive fabric must be selected taking into account the main fabric to which it will be glued. To choose the right interlining, you need to take several pieces of different types of this fabric and glue them to the main one, then evaluate the result. The adhesive that will stick best to the fabric and is less noticeable should be left for work. Various non-woven markings contain information about tolerance to washing and aggressive dry cleaning.
Adhesive fabric has an important role in tailoring. This is another layer of fabric that is attached from the inside out and retains the shape of the collar, belt, sides, strengthens pockets, loops, and clasps.
Gaskets are used even in the simplest models to strengthen the neckline, facings and hem.
Gaskets can be woven or non-woven.
Woven interlinings have a grain thread, so they must be cut in the same direction as the main material. Non-woven interlining can be cut in any direction.
There are also adhesive and non-adhesive gaskets.
Non-adhesive ones are not easy to sew; they must first be pinned together with the fabric, then stitched. Therefore, we will not work with this species.
Adhesive fabric has a special rough coating on one side that melts under the iron.
When working, it is necessary to place an ironing pad - a thin cotton cloth - between the iron and the gasket, so as not to damage the coating of the iron.
How to choose adhesive fabric?
Today, stores have a large selection of adhesive non-woven fabric And .
I prefer to use it. It is more durable, it has a pronounced grain thread, although it is a little more expensive, but its advantages justify it.
And you can determine the best option for yourself experimentally))
How to glue with doublerin?
The only way to see what fabric with interfacing will look like is to buy it and test it by gluing a small piece of interfacing onto a small piece of fabric.
How glue dublerin onto fabric? Place the rough side on the wrong side of the fabric , make sure that the shared threads match.
Iron the piece through the cotton fabric. Let cool for 20 minutes. The glue from the pad must transfer firmly to the fabric so that the edges cannot be separated.
The main rule: the adhesive pad should not be denser than the fabric; it can be stiffer, but not denser.
Watch a very good video on how to correctly cut and glue dubbing and interlining parts onto fabric:
Dublerin or non-woven fabric - what's the difference!?
And so, interlining and dublerin are cushioning materials on which glue is applied on one side. The glue is applied in powder form in small dots strictly at a specific distance from each other. What's the difference then? - is that dublerin is a woven material, and interlining is non-woven.
Woven is a technological term that means that our material is a real fabric with threads. Non-woven - a technological term - is a fabric and material - achievements of scientific and technological progress, in particular, the chemical industry where you will not see threads in the fabric.
Doublerin
But despite the fact that non-woven fabric is a cheaper material, professionals are convinced that double fabric is more convenient to use! The advantages of dublerin are elasticity, high stretchability and excellent drapability. The name itself suggests that the material is used for duplication. They use duplerin when you need to strengthen the fabric, add volume, make clothes more wearable and resistant to wrinkles, prevent deformation after washing and ironing, so that the edges do not stretch and always have a beautiful appearance.
Where is dublerin used:
- - In most cases - in outerwear, where there is a huge number of different pads, edges, the presence of which buyers do not even know);
- - in light clothing, where the bare minimum is compacted - collars, cuffs, sides;
- - in toys In toys - anywhere, anything and as much as you want;
- - in patchwork and quilting - special materials, immediately with convenient markings for lines;
- - in fabric and leather bags, and in leather bags there are also special adhesives for leather;
- - in scrapbooking and almost all types of needlework;
- - and even in soap making they use water-soluble materials (not adhesives).
Today they produce multi-colored sheepskin, but the standard option remains white, gray and black. You can buy dublerin wholesale in these standard colors in our store.
Some secret tips for you on using doublerin.
Professionals and tailors recommend decating not only basic fabrics, but also dubbing fabrics. What kind of procedure is this - decatification? A fairly simple process - the material is soaked in warm water for 1-2 hours, after which it needs to be dried without squeezing, so that the water flows freely from the material. As a result, the dublerin will dry and the glue will not be damaged. And most importantly, decatification should be carried out with all types of natural fabrics that can shrink after washing. This process is not a mandatory procedure, but a desirable condition before use, since after decating you can be sure that the material will not shrink, tighten or create wrinkles on the main fabric after gluing.
Another tip - before gluing, you need to slightly wet the surface of the fabric - gluing will be more accurate! To duplicate dublerin, you will need a fairly high temperature!
Before you buy dublerin, think about what fabric, what density, what purpose you want to achieve from the cushioning material. Touch and think, buy a piece, do a test drive and only then buy a double.
Nonwoven
As Wikipedia “says”, it is a paper-like non-woven cushioning material based on cellulose fibers with the possible addition of polyester fibers. It comes in a variety of densities and thicknesses with dotted, continuous adhesive or no adhesive. The most important advantage of non-woven fabric is its low price compared to double linen.
Non-woven fabrics without glue are used mainly for embroidery, to reinforce fabric, and also when creating appliqués.
Non-woven fabric quilted on a machine for strength was called thread-stitched. This non-woven fabric is more similar in parameters to dublerin - it drapes well, does not break at the folds, and is cheaper in price.
Adviсe:
- - it is better to cut interlining “along the lobar”, since in the transverse direction it still stretches slightly.
- - if you don’t have doublerin on hand, then non-woven fabric can replace it, and vice versa. In most cases, these materials are interchangeable.
About 30 types of non-woven fabric and about 20 types of dublerin, as well as adhesive tapes, spider webs - in total, about 80 types of adhesive materials in the assortment of our store.