Particularly resistant and durable, indestructible steel doors are steadily displacing their wooden and wood-shaving counterparts from all areas of the modern construction industry. Massive and strong metal doors reliably protect homes from unauthorized intrusions, and therefore our compatriots willingly install them in their city apartments and private country houses, and often, in order to save money, they prefer to do it themselves. In fact, self-installation of a steel entrance door is not a problem for a person who sufficiently possesses the necessary construction skills, but inexperienced beginners will be helped to cope with this work correctly by the step-by-step instructions in our article; performing particularly complex actions can be mastered with the help of a video.
How to install a steel entrance door: instructions
All work on installing a steel entrance door is divided into 3 standard basic stages:
- preparatory operations, including selecting tools, dismantling the old door and preparing the doorway;
- installation work - installation and fastening of the door frame, hanging the door;
- finishing procedures, which include checking and debugging the operation of locks, adjusting the movement of the door leaf, and sealing technological gaps.
Advice! A metal door block is a bulky and very heavy structure, so to install it you will certainly need a dexterous, muscular assistant.
Stage 1 - preparation
Step 1. Selection of materials and tools.
To work you will need:
- a hammer drill or a powerful impact drill equipped with “drill” and “chisel” attachments;
- angle grinder (grinder);
- plumb line and building level;
- sledgehammer and hammer;
- tape measure and marking pencil;
- medium-sized crowbar or large nail puller;
- an axe, a wood saw and a piece of board;
- several cylinders of polyurethane foam or a high-grade cement solution.
Step 2. Dismantling the old door.
1. Remove the old door leaf from the hinges. If this is not possible for some reason, unscrew the screws securing the hinges to the hinges and remove the door along with the awnings.
2. In several places, cut the beams of the old door frame with a grinder or a hacksaw, pry up the side posts with a crowbar and, carefully, so as not to damage the partition, tear them off the brick or concrete base.
3. Remove the top beam and threshold in the same way.
Step 3. Preparing the opening.
1. After the box is removed from the doorway, use a nail puller or pliers to pull out the remaining nails from the walls.
2. Remove pieces of thermal insulation material (if it was laid between the core and the wall).
3. Carefully beat the plaster down to the base of the walls (if you find wooden chips in them, pull them out and seal the holes with mortar).
4. Try on the door block to the prepared opening.
Important! In the case where the initial measurements were made correctly, the door frame made in accordance with them should freely fit into the opening so that there are technological gaps of 20-25 mm on each side between its beams and the walls.
If the block fits into the opening properly, you will not need to follow the next step of the instructions.
5. When an employee of the manufacturer made a mistake with the calculations, and the box turned out to be too large or small for your doorway, you will have to work harder and expand or reduce it accordingly.
6. To increase the size of the opening, beat the excess wall with a hammer drill; to reduce it, increase the missing volume with high-quality concrete mortar.
Stage 2 - installation work
Step 1. Installation of the box.
1. Together with an assistant, insert a new metal frame (without the door leaf) into the prepared opening. To prevent the block from falling out of the hole in the wall, first secure it with wooden wedges. Cut the wedges in advance and insert them with little force at 20-centimeter intervals along the entire perimeter of the box.
2. Using a level and plumb line, in all accessible planes, as carefully as possible, check the vertical installation of the tray. If a discrepancy is detected, loosen or drive the wedges deeper, thereby moving the box in the desired direction.
3. When the desired result is achieved, fix all the wedges as firmly as possible so that the tray does not move during the process of drilling mounting holes in the walls, and once again make sure that it is vertical.
Important! If, in order to save money, the manufacturer did not make holes for bolts in the frame of your new door, drill them yourself before installing the frame. The standard number of holes is 3 pcs. on vertical posts and 2 on horizontal posts.
4. Drill holes in the walls for anchor bolts through the mounting holes in the hinge jamb. Start drilling from the top point of the jamb; for drilling, use a Pobedit drill bit of suitable length and diameter.
If your inexpensive door does not include fastening hardware, purchase 150 mm anchor bolts with a diameter of 12-15 mm yourself.
Insert anchors into the finished sockets and tighten them.
Step 2. Hanging the door.
5. After lubricating the hinges, temporarily hang the door on the jamb. Check the movement of the door - it should not squint or close spontaneously. If the door moves smoothly and turns in its hinges without applying significant force, it means that the frame is positioned correctly and can be further secured.
6. To do this, remove the door from the awnings, drill holes in the opposite wall in the same way and secure a stand with a locking strip in it, then secure the threshold and, at the end, the lintel.
7. Close the anchor heads with decorative caps and finally hang the door leaf.
Stage 3 - finishing
Step 1. Adjusting the locks, checking and adjusting the door travel.
1. Install all the accessories supplied with it on the door.
2. Open the door 45 and then 90 * - in such positions it should not move spontaneously.
3. Close the door with the latch and check if it has any play in this state.
4. Check the gaps between the posts and the door leaf - according to the rules, they should not exceed 4 mm.
5. Check the soft operation of the locking mechanisms; correct any problems by moving the counter plates located on the locking post of the box.
Step 2. Sealing technological gaps.
1. Cover the door frame with masking tape and cover the door leaf with protective film.
After installing the door, the threshold and walls are covered with decorative trims
Installing an entrance door to an apartment is a task that many people face when planning to replace it. There are two solutions: pay for the installation of doors in the same store or company where you purchase them, or install new doors yourself.
This article is a specific example of installing an entrance door with your own hands, showing that if you have a couple of hours of free time, desire, and a minimum of tools, this task is within the capabilities of many..
During the renovation of the corridor, they decided to install a new entrance door. We decided to buy it not ready-made in the store, but to order it according to the dimensions of the opening. After reading advertisements and reviews, we chose the company. A representative arrived, took measurements, and two weeks later a new insulated metal door was delivered. To save money, we decided to install the front door ourselves.
Tools
Before starting work, you need to prepare a tool that will be useful in the future.
We will need:
- mount;
- perforator;
- drill with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 150 mm;
- hammer;
- level;
- grinder with a metal disc;
- polyurethane foam;
- spray bottle with water;
- dowel-nails (in our case, 120 mm long and 10 mm in diameter);
- hacksaw for metal;
- masking tape (if there is no protective film);
- screwdriver;
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers;
- spacer wedges.
Don't neglect your protective equipment. Be sure to wear gloves, and wear goggles when working with an angle grinder and a hammer drill.
Removing the old door
Using a pry bar, we dismantle the cash, if there is one. Having opened the door leaf approximately 90°, we slide the pry bar under it, closer to the side with the hinges and, lifting it, remove it. If the hinges are skewed or they are rusty and do not come off, you can try to unscrew them with a screwdriver or using a screwdriver. You can also simply cut the loops with a grinder.
We use a hacksaw to saw through one of the frame posts and dismantle it using a pry bar. We have the upper cross member of the box behind the top of the side pillar, and the threshold behind the bottom. Finally, we dismantle the remaining rack.
It is advisable to unscrew or pull out all fasteners. If this is not possible, cut them with a grinder or a hacksaw, and hammer the protruding parts back into the wall. Remove loose plaster from the walls around the perimeter of the opening and clean the floor surface of debris.
Installing a new entrance door in an apartment
We insert the box into the opening, ours is monolithic, after first removing the door leaf from it. We set it according to level. First, apply a level to the side post on which the hinges are located, along the front and inside. We used a magnetic level. It is convenient for them to work with metal structures, since both hands remain free. The length should be from 400 to 800 mm. A level with a shorter length may cause an error, and a longer length may not be convenient to work with. In addition, with a level longer than 800 mm, it will be difficult to set the horizontal, because Usually the width of the door leaf at the doors in the apartment is 900 mm.
Installing the box level.
If necessary, to achieve the level, we hammer wedges between the wall and the frame, or the floor and the frame. Since our old door frame was made of wood, we did not prepare the wedges in advance, but made them out of it.
We use wooden wedges of the required size.
Having achieved the desired verticality and horizontality, we fix the box onto the mounting plate located at the top hinge. To do this, use a hammer drill to make a hole in the wall and drive a dowel-nail into it.
Hanging the door
It is advisable to immediately lubricate the hinges with machine oil. We check the level again. If necessary, add additional wedges.
After making sure that everything is in order, we fix the stand with hinges to the remaining mounting plates.
We close the door. Align the side post on the lock side. We make sure that the gap between the door leaf and the pillar is uniform over the entire height. To do this, we move the stand until we get the desired result. We check that the locks close and open freely. We attach the rack to the mounting plates by making holes in the wall with a hammer drill and driving in dowel nails.
Use a spray bottle to moisten the gap between the wall and the frame around the entire perimeter. Let the water absorb.
Fill the gap with foam. If you have no experience working with foam and the frame of the front door is not protected by film, then it is better to paste it around the perimeter with masking tape so as not to stain it with foam.
Close the door and let the foam dry for 24 hours. At this point, the installation of the entrance door to the apartment can be considered complete. In the future, we finish the entrance door slopes with plaster, plasterboard or panels.
Reading time ≈ 3 minutes
It is no secret that installing entrance doors with your own hands is not only a complex, but also a labor-intensive process that requires not only personal participation, but also the presence of a physically strong assistant, since it will not be easy to install a multi-kilogram steel door alone.
Removing an old iron door
Having found an assistant and having studied how to install the front door with your own hands, at least theoretically, you can proceed to the first stage, which consists of either dismantling the old iron door if you are going to replace it, or maximizing the size of the opening to the dimensions of the purchased door, if equipped entrance to a new apartment or house. In the first case, first the door is separated from the frame, as in the video below (for detachable hinges, this is done using a crowbar, first opening it 90 degrees; for permanent hinges, use a screwdriver), and then the frame itself is dismantled. If it is metal, then you may have to use a grinder to cut it. In the second case, using bricks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete, the opening is reduced to the size of the frame along with the doors, leaving technological gaps for their alignment.
Step-by-step instructions for installing an entrance door
Then they move on to the actual installation of the metal entrance door. It is inserted into the opening, and while one of the workers holds it, using a level, in the desired position, the second marks the places for the anchor screws - they perform the function of guaranteeing the reliability and strength of the door.
The photo of the installation of entrance doors shows how anchors are inserted into the drilled holes (sometimes prepared by the manufacturer), and they are secured first on the hinge side, and then on the opposite side. It is no coincidence that this part of the process is considered the most difficult and time-consuming. Using a level, you once again check the correct orientation of the product in geometric planes.
With the help of the video attached to the article, installation of entrance doors is undoubtedly easier. So, it is worth paying attention to how in the photo the space between the opening and the door frame is qualitatively sealed using polyurethane sealant (spray foam). To avoid deformation of the door frame when the foam hardens, sealing is carried out with the door closed. It is better to cover the space below not with foam, but with cement mortar, since, due to the constant loads from the incoming feet, it will completely collapse in a couple of months. After sealing, it is worth leaving the door closed for 5-6 hours without touching it.
After this, you can proceed to a very important stage - adjustment. When installing steel entrance doors with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for this important procedure, since the presence of distortions in the leaf, even minor ones, in relation to the door frame will negatively affect the operation of all locking mechanisms, and therefore leads to premature failure of the product. Adjustment is made using screws located in a triangle on each of the door hinges. By loosening the screws and tightening them, the gaps are achieved within normal limits. First, adjust the gap on the hinge side.
A correctly installed and adjusted door will save its owner from the premature hassle of repairing or even replacing it and the associated costs.
The reliability of entrance doors depends not only on the quality of the design itself, but also on adherence to technology during installation. To perform the installation correctly and avoid serious mistakes, you should study the instructions in advance and carefully read each stage of the work. With this approach, making your own front door will not cause any difficulties, and the end result will delight you for many years.
Installation procedure
Replacing a door frame or installing doors in a new building includes several stages:
- taking measurements;
- preparation of the opening;
- installation of door structure;
- sealing cracks;
- finishing.
Each process should be performed with the highest possible quality, without haste, using reliable and proven materials. The door frame is fastened in various ways, so before installation you need to choose the most optimal one in order to save materials and time.
You should know that the manufacturer's warranty is not issued in case of self-installation, so if damage occurs during the installation process, you will have to repair it at your own expense.
To avoid buying a low-quality product, you need to carefully remove the protective film in the store, carefully check the door leaf and frame, and then re-glue the polyethylene with tape. You can finally remove the film only after completing installation and finishing - this way the surface will remain clean and undamaged.
You should also prepare in advance everything you need for work:
Measurements and preparation of the opening
To take measurements, the boundaries of the door opening must be very clearly visible. Often the box is covered with a large layer of plaster around the entire perimeter, which makes measurements difficult. Therefore, first, the platbands are removed from the tray, the excess solution is cleaned off, and if necessary, the threshold is dismantled. If the new box is wider than the previous one, you need to measure the length of the support beam above the opening. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the width of the door frame, otherwise the reliability of the fastening will be too low. When all measurements have been completed, you can begin preparing the opening.
Prices for entrance doors
Entrance doors
Step 1. Dismantling the trap
In an old brick building, dismantling work should be carried out carefully so as not to severely damage the masonry; the same applies to walls made of foam concrete. The door leaf is removed from the hinges, and then the loot is cut in two or three places with a grinder or hacksaw. Then the box is pryed with a crowbar and removed from the opening.
Step 2. Cleaning the opening
After removing the mortar, pieces of mortar remain along the perimeter of the opening, cracks and voids open in the masonry of the walls. Below the threshold, destruction is especially severe: brickwork crumbles, old beams rot. All this should be removed, the solution should be cleaned with a hammer drill, and the opening should be leveled over the entire area.
Step 3. Seal cracks and voids
Mix the cement mortar and rub over all small cracks. Deep cracks are filled with pieces of brick and covered with mortar. If you need to raise the floor, lay out a new brick base or make a screed. There is no need to level the walls of the opening at this stage, since minor damage to the surface is possible during installation. The main thing is that there are no voids left inside that allow cold to penetrate into the home.
Installation of entrance doors
When installing doors, you will need an assistant, because it is very difficult to lift and insert a heavy structure on your own, even though the frame and leaf are mounted separately. The presence of mounting ears on the frame and ready-made holes for wiring, which are made in the factory, will simplify the work.
Step 1. Installation of the box
The door leaf is removed from the hinges and set aside. The box is lifted and placed in the opening so that the door opens outward. It is very important to level the structure, otherwise it will close loosely or with difficulty, which is also undesirable.
It is necessary to check the vertical and horizontal of the box on each plane; If the protrusions in the opening interfere with alignment, they can be knocked down with a hammer or hammer drill.
To prevent the structure from moving during installation, its position is fixed with wooden pegs. It is advisable to have pegs of an even shape and in the form of wedges, then it is much easier to adjust the level. But it is not recommended to use nails for this - the box may move slightly, and you will have to level it again.
Step 2. Fastening the structure
The door frame can be secured in the opening in different ways, depending on the type of door and the material from which it is made. There must be at least 10 fixation points around the perimeter of the frame - 2 in the lower and upper parts, and 3 on both sides.
Option 1: fixation with anchors by the eyes.
This method is suitable for almost all designs; the lugs are not made together with the body, and are screwed to doors made of wood and plastic with self-tapping screws. The hammer drill is threaded through the eye and a hole is made in the wall to a depth of 15 cm. An anchor is inserted there and tightened with a socket wrench. The anchor can be replaced with a steel pin made of reinforcement with a cross-section of 10 mm, sharpening one edge and flattening the second with a hammer. The pin is driven into the hole until it stops and welded to the eye.
Option 2: installing fasteners through the canvas. With this method, holes are made in the end of the loot; pins or bolts are dug into the wall in the same way and fixed directly to the box. In a wooden structure, it is recommended to drill small recesses where the bolt heads will be hidden.
Fastening a metal door with anchor bolts 
Option 3: fixation with metal clamps. This method is used for installation in buildings with monolithic walls; The main convenience is that there is no need to drill or drill holes. The door frame is held in place from the outside by a special edging, and from the inside by metal hooks welded to the inside of the door frame.
The side on which the loops are located is secured first; it is necessary to fasten from the top point to the bottom. After tightening the first bolt, you should check the position of the box with a level to avoid distortion. The vertical is controlled in the same way after the second and third bolts. When this side is fixed, hang the door leaf and check the tension of the frame.
If the door opens easily, there are no deformations or gaps, you can attach the second side. The canvas is removed again and the vertical post of the loot, as well as the threshold and lintel, are fixed with bolts, not forgetting to control the position of the frame with a level. Again, hang the canvas, check the ease of movement and tension. If the tension is too strong, loosen the fasteners a little.
Video - Installing the front door yourself
Step 3: Completing installation
Remove the cloth again so as not to stain the surface. The heads of the anchor bolts are covered with special plugs that match the color of the door leaf. The surface of the box is sealed with masking tape, then the technological gaps and indentations are blown with foam.
Very often, instead of foam, cement mortar mixed with alabaster is used - this increases the reliability of the structure many times over. The solution is mixed until loose and the gap between the wall and the frame is tightly packed around the entire perimeter.
After the solution has hardened, the opening is puttied and plastered, the tape is removed from the box, and the canvas is hung. Carefully check the operation of locks, handles, and ease of movement. To make the doorway look neat, it is necessary to install platbands on the outside. They are screwed onto a wooden base with self-tapping screws, the caps are sunk into the wood and covered with putty. If the structure is metal, the platbands are fastened with bolts or rivets. They are made from the inside of the opening, giving the doors a decorative and aesthetic appearance.
Video - Do-it-yourself front door installation
Video - Installation of plasterboard slope on entrance doors
There are a huge number of proposals for entrance doors on the market - there are not only metal structures, but also wooden ones. And as practice shows, reliability is determined not only by the quality of the product itself and the materials from which it is made, but also by competent installation. Installing entrance doors is a responsible undertaking, therefore, to ensure that the final result does not disappoint, it is recommended to study the installation instructions.
Measurements and preparation of the opening
So, the old front door no longer fits its purpose both in functionality and reliability. It is necessary to purchase and bring to your house (apartment) a new model, which is selected based on appearance, functionality, and size.
But before you go to the store, you need to take the dimensions of the doorway. You need to get to its ends, which are hidden under the platbands with a layer of leveling mortar and polyurethane foam:
- The platbands are dismantled, there is no need to stand on ceremony with them, they will no longer be useful in the future.
- The plaster layer is removed.
- If foam was used during installation, it will also have to be removed.
- The threshold is dismantled.
The front door stands in front of you, and the edges of the door frame (that’s what a door frame is called in professional language) and the ends of the opening are clearly visible. There is always a gap between them. Now you need to measure the distances between the opposite ends of the opening. This must be done in at least three places with an equal distance between measurements. The same is true with the horizontal direction. From these, the smallest values are selected, which are taken as the basis for the dimensions of the door frame with a deviation of 1-2 cm in the smaller direction.
For example, if the height of the opening turns out to be 2.12 m, then to select the height of the hole, the size of 2.1 m is taken.
The principle of correctly taking dimensions from a doorway
It should be noted that different manufacturers have their own model line, in which each door has its own dimensional parameters. Therefore, the actual dimensions of the opening will have to be adjusted to fit standard door designs from a specific model range.
The difficulty of dismantling the door hatch will depend on what material the walls of the house are built from. If it is gas, foam or expanded clay concrete, then all dismantling work must be carried out with great care - it is important not to spoil the fragile masonry, which is prone to chipping.
Removing the old box from the opening In general, the procedure is as follows:
- the door leaf is removed from the hinges;
- the box is cut with a grinder or hacksaw into several parts.
- The cut pieces are dismantled using a crowbar or crowbar.
Cleaning the doorway
Cleaning consists of removing old fasteners, flimsy plaster mixture and, if any, polyurethane foam from the ends and adjacent areas.
Old metal fasteners are removed with a grinder But if the house is old and the front door has been in use for decades, then it is necessary to check the floor beam that is installed above the doorway. If its quality leaves much to be desired, then you should think about how to replace it. It is better not to carry out this repair operation with your own hands.
Pay attention to the area below the threshold. Typically, in brick houses that have been in use for a long time, wide openings are formed filled with loose brick material, so this debris must be gotten rid of.
Sealing cracks and voids
When all defects in the doorway are discovered, they must be repaired with ordinary cement-sand mortar, which is diluted in a ratio of 1:3 (1 part cement to 3 parts sand). Large voids are filled with broken or solid bricks and mortar. Small ones - only with a cement mixture, the same applies to cracks. Before sealing the latter, it is recommended to use a deep penetration primer. It will not only hold together the grains of wall material, but will also go deeper into the thickness of the concrete, making it more durable.
If you need to level a large area, you can install guides from boards, securing them with a clamp There is no need to level the surfaces of the ends of the doorway. You can raise the floor by pouring screed, or level the area under the threshold.
Installation instructions for entrance doors
Some useful tips before starting installation work:
Installation of the box
First of all, the door must be disassembled into two parts: the leaf and the frame. The latter is installed in the doorway and leveled both vertically and horizontally. In this case, the installation is done on stands made of wood or plastic. It is best if these are cone-shaped inserts, which can be easily knocked out after installation work is completed. Although sometimes craftsmen do not touch them, leaving them in the opening as additional support.
Brief instructions for installing the door Please note that the entrance door is installed flush with the outer surface of the wall. And it should open outward. After alignment, the diagonals of the frame are checked; they must be the same in length.
Methods of fastening the structure
There are several ways, so each should be considered separately. The door frame must be secured to at least 10 points: 2 from the bottom and top and 3 from each vertical end.
Through the eyes
Manufacturers of metal door models offer designs that already include so-called lugs - metal strips welded to the frame, in which holes are made for fasteners. Therefore, the fastening process itself is as follows:
- the planks are bent to the wall surface so that they are pressed as tightly as possible;
- Through the holes, holes are made using a puncher to suit the length of the anchor;
- the latter is inserted through the eye into the hole in the wall and tightened with a wrench.
Instead of anchors, you can use pins made of steel reinforcement. They are driven into the hole, and the ends are welded to the eyes using electric welding. To increase the strength of the fastening, you can pour cement mortar into the hole and then hammer in the pins. If reinforcing bars are used as fasteners, then the depth of the hole should be within 15 cm.
Through a through hole
Some manufacturers of metal entrance doors at the production stage provide through holes in the ends of the frame. If there are none, then you can drill them yourself using a drill or hammer drill.
Through the holes, a puncher makes recesses at the ends of the opening, into which either anchors or pins are inserted. If the front door is made of wood, then only anchors are used for fastening using this method, the nuts of which must be recessed into the body of the frame. Therefore, a hole is widened for them to match the diameter of the nut, and the seating depth should be equal to the thickness of the fastener. Pins are not used in this case, because there is nothing to weld them to.
Through metal grips
This option for fastening the front door is only possible if a metal edging from a profile steel corner is additionally installed on the outer edge of the opening.
It is necessary to weld metal strips with a width of 3-4 cm, a length equal to the width of the end of the opening, and a thickness of 2-3 mm, at the attachment points to the door sash from the inside. They are welded either perpendicular to the parts of the box, or obliquely. There are no particularly strict requirements here in GOST.
Fastening to the frame is important for walls made of blocks, read more about this later in the article Thus, the box is held on the outside by edging, and on the inside by metal hooks.
And some more useful tips regarding the sequence and correctness of fastening:
- you need to start attaching the box from the side where the hinges are installed;
- the process itself is carried out from top to bottom;
- after each fastening, the box is checked for vertical installation: fasten one side, hang the canvas, check whether it opens well - you can move to the other side of the box; same with the top and bottom.
It is important! The verticality of all sides of the frame is checked using a level at ALL stages of installation: before fastening to anchors, during fastening and after hanging the canvas Completion of the installation process
The check showed that the door is positioned correctly, it opens and closes freely. The door leaf must be removed again, and the surfaces of the door must be covered with masking tape, because it is time to seal the gaps and carry out the finishing touches.
Foaming must be done on both sides - Polyurethane foam fills the gap between the ends of the opening and the frame. It will not only serve as a filler, but also as insulation. By the way, you may find information about how to be useful.
- The same can be done with a cement-sand mortar, to which building gypsum is added. The latter sets quickly, so the solution dries quickly.
- The surface of the gap is puttied to maximum evenness. To do this, you may need to apply the mixture in several layers.
- They make slopes that are painted or covered with decorative material.
- If necessary, add-ons are installed.
- The masking tape is removed.
- From the outside. If the door is wooden, then they are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed into the wood by 0.5 mm. After which the caps themselves are closed with decorative caps. If the box is metal, then the platbands are attached to it with rivets, screws or bolts.
- Handles are installed on the door, hinges are lubricated.
- The door leaf is hung.
This is a step-by-step technology for installing a door in a brick or panel house.
Installation in openings made of gas, foam and expanded clay concrete
Expanded clay block private house or buildings made of gas or foam blocks belong to the category of buildings with fragile load-bearing structures. Therefore, in order to install an entrance door in them, it is necessary to take into account two important requirements specified in SNiP and GOST:
- Increase the number of fasteners on the vertical sides of the box within 4-6 on each side. At the same time, their depth should not be less than 20 cm. To fasten metal doors in a foam concrete wall, you cannot use standard metal anchors, which in soft blocks will quickly become loose due to intensive opening and closing of the door. In such houses, according to the standard, it is better to use chemical anchors, for example Hilti.
- Install a crimping structure consisting of two frames made of steel angles with a flange width of 40 or 50 mm. In fact, it’s the same edging, only on both sides of the wall. Both structures are fastened together by crossbars made of metal plates 3-4 mm thick.
Installation in a wooden house
Installation of the door structure is carried out according to the following scheme:
- A casing is made along the opening - this is a powerful wooden box made of beams.
- The door frame is inserted into it.
- The box is fastened to the casing using long self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. It is important here that the fasteners do not pass through the casing.
More details about this process can be found in the article.
Accuracy in taking dimensions, a strictly step-by-step order of operations, correct alignment of the door in all planes and reliable fastening of the door are the basic rules for its installation and a guarantee of the quality of the final result.