Construction company " Family House» specializes in the construction of extensions to wooden houses. Over the course of many years, we have accumulated experience in implementing a wide variety of projects, attracted competent and reliable employees, communicated with customers, solved current problems and come a long way. Now we can confidently say that we know our clients, we are familiar with your requirements and experiences. We are ready to increase the usable area of your home and make an extension to a wooden house with a guarantee of a successful result: to build a reliable structure that will organically fit into the architecture of the existing house and will be completely ready for many years of use.
Cooperation with us will save you from unnecessary expenditure of your own time, because... the process of organizing construction and all stages of construction fall entirely on our shoulders. You will also save money due to our successful pricing policy, which became possible due to the unique construction management system that has developed in practice and strong relationships with our partners that have been developed over the years. When ordering the construction of an extension from us, you can be sure that you will receive a well-done job, taking into account your wishes.
You need to call us by phone or leave a request from the website, and we will contact you to discuss the details of the construction of your future extension. The sooner you start moving in this direction, the sooner you will feel the comfort of expanding the usable area of your home.
Prices for extensions to a wooden house
To roughly calculate the cost of your extension to a wooden house, you can rely on the table below. The prices in the table include the cost of labor and materials. This is a standard package that includes everything necessary to operate the extension after completion of construction.
Photos of extensions to wooden houses
We try to promptly update the section on our website, where beautiful extensions to wooden houses that we have built are presented. You can see more photos of extensions on the page “photos of extensions to houses”; each construction project is presented in the form of a small photo report.
To avoid the appearance of deformations (cracks) of structural elements, the building must be cut with vertical, so-called expansion joints. Expansion joints There are temperature, sedimentary and seismic.
A settlement seam is a seam that cuts a building from top to bottom, including foundations, and allows individual parts of the building to settle independently in the vertical direction. The need for sedimentary joints appears when the geological structure of the soil under the foundations of individual parts of the building is different, or when there is a significant difference in the weight of individual adjacent parts of the same building. It is important to protect the house from uneven settlement of the old part and the new part attached to it.
The reason for foundation subsidence is soil compaction under the influence of the weight of the structure. This process occurs most intensively during the first year after the construction of the house. The soil under the foundation “gets used” to the changed conditions. New foundations usually settle faster than old ones, the soil beneath which has long hardened.
Moreover, excavation work during the construction of a new part of the house can change the properties of the soil. Excavations can disturb or weaken the soil under old foundations, especially if they have been open for a long time and exposed to rain or frost. The soil in newly filled pits is usually loose, which can cause changes in water flow paths during rainfall. Often such changes are revealed only after construction is completed. As a result of uneven settlement of foundations, deformation always occurs. At the junction of the new and old parts of the building, cracks form. When preparing a project for the construction of an extension, this circumstance must be taken into account.
Expansion joints
The problems described above do not arise if the extension to the house is separated by sedimentary seams. Sedimentary joints are 1-2 cm gaps running from the foundations of a building to its roof between all parts of the building: floors, beams, walls, pillars, floors, windows, etc. The gap fillers are most often polystyrene foam, elastic tapes, etc. plastic bitumen, acrylic or silicone masses. If the architects had not provided for settlement joints, the floors and plaster would have started to crack within a few months after the completion of construction. It happens that window glass cannot withstand the stress caused by subsidence. The doors of the house, located at the junction of its two parts, stop opening. When cracks appear, water appears and floods basements, rooms under the bathroom, and others.
Expansion joints can be designed to be visible where they divide the facade, or they can be hidden by being hidden by a drainpipe. Usually, on the front side, the expansion joint is covered with a flashing or sealed with a low-strength material that does not prevent the mutual displacement of the outer walls during uneven settlement of the building. At the roof level, the seams are also covered with a compensation device.
Protecting the old structure
A major challenge when expanding a house laterally is also protecting the older, often structurally weaker, part of the building. The easiest way is to design a new part of the house in such a way that its load-bearing walls, together with the foundations, are located perpendicular to the previously built part of the house. External fences then become the internal walls of new premises, expansion joints are created at the junctions of walls and floors with ceilings and walls of the extension.
Attaching new premises to a residential building is the best way to increase living space, which we help implement on a summer cottage. You can attach living quarters to either a wooden house or a building made of brick, aerated concrete blocks or foam blocks. A competently designed and constructed extension can radically change both the appearance of the main building and the interior, and will help create an almost new architectural image on the site.
We build any extensions, first completing individual project and calculating all the details. At the same time, at the preliminary design stage it is possible to see the view of the cottage with the built extension in the project with a three-dimensional image.
The price of an extension without finishing work in Moscow and the Moscow region is from 300 thousand rubles.
Photos of the built extensions and developed three-dimensional projects can be found by clicking on the links below:
We will present a photo and description of the implementation process of one of ours on this page. This is an object near the city of Lobnya, Moscow region - construction of a frame extension to a house(brick cottage). The attached room is insulated, with wide windows, designed for relaxation in a large, bright space.
The foundation of the extension on the dacha plot is made in the form of a monolithic reinforced concrete strip on piles. The walls were built using frame technology - a single cheap version of the frame with load-bearing elements made of boards and timber, sheathed on both sides with OSB panels.
The space between the posts and lintels of the frame is insulated with polystyrene foam - an effective insulation material that is quite economical and easy to install. For the construction of small, inexpensive extensions to a house, the use of polystyrene foam under certain conditions is quite justified, although if necessary, you can opt for other materials, such as mineral wool insulation.
The base of the extension to a brick house is also lined with brick to form a more harmonious combination with brick facades of the cottage, to which the premises are attached. To build a truly warm extension, in the process of insulating frame walls, small voids between the timber and the foam are filled with polyurethane foam. With significant expansion, the foam even gets into hidden cavities, and also additionally glues the components of the frame walls.
The roof of the extension to the house is pitched, with a slight slope from the cottage. The load-bearing part of the roof is made of simple wooden beams installed at calculated intervals to accommodate snow loads. Finishing of facades - plastering on the second outer layer of OSB and expanded polystyrene ("wet facade" system, with a ventilated gap). When the construction of the extension was completed, the exterior walls were painted in a color scheme that matched the color scheme of the cottage.
The project provides for the installation of large plastic windows, allowing the constructed premises to be provided with the maximum amount of natural light. The appearance of the extension is completed by elements of the drainage system - metal gutters and pipes designed to drain rainwater from the roof.
Building an extension to a house and finishing it on the outside is quite a complex undertaking, requiring detailed design design and masterful execution. However, for full comfortable use of the attached premises, it is necessary to competently carry out interior finishing work, as well as installation of engineering systems.
Engineering networks of the extension at the dacha - that is, electrical wiring with the installation of final devices - sockets, switches, lighting devices, as well as - water system heating with heating devices (radiators). The interior decoration of the walls and ceiling is made of plasterboard.
Note that the construction of a small extension will not require large financial and time expenditures, its price will be low. But from a constructive and technological point of view, there are many nuances, ignorance of which can lead to unpleasant consequences. The most common mistake in the construction of extensions is the incorrect construction of the foundation, external finishing of the facades, ill-conceived joints of the extension structures to the load-bearing wall of the main building.
Such deficiencies in design and construction cause deformation of structures as a result of soil settlement under the extension to the house.
We offer technological solutions to avoid such problems. At the same time, the extension visually and functionally becomes one with the house. This is achieved through careful selection of finishing materials at the design and creation stage. 3D models in various design options. In addition to building an extension or superstructure, we can carry out a complete reconstruction of your home, including strengthening the foundations, replacing load-bearing structures, installing a new roof and finishing the facade.
It is believed that a modern private house is much more spacious than a standard city apartment. But what if it was built a long time ago or the limited budget did not allow you to get exactly the kind of housing you dreamed of? Years pass, funds are saved, and the question of how to build an extension to a wooden house appears on the family “agenda.” Or brick, or frame...
An extension is a relatively small structure that is adjacent to the end or side walls of a house. It can stand on the same foundation as the main building (if you knew that sooner or later you would gather your strength and finish building the house). Otherwise, you will have to first make the foundation, and then deal with the construction of walls and roofing. Speaking specifically about wooden houses, then the first option is much preferable, because otherwise you will have to raise the lower rims. This means that until you complete the foundation for the extension, the house will “hang” on special stilts.
There are several classifications of extensions. First of all, they are divided into subtypes depending on the material used:
– brick. Such a structure is insulated, very durable and heavy, and therefore requires good foundation, reliable connection with the house and interior decoration. As a result, the building also turns out to be expensive, moreover, it goes very poorly with a wooden house;
– frame-panel. Compared to previous options, this is an inexpensive extension that can be done quickly and independently. The construction is easy, and therefore a columnar or strip foundation, if the soil allows. After pouring the foundation, it is necessary to install a frame of beams onto which internal and external slabs of OSB or chipboard are sewn. Between them, first a layer of waterproofing is laid, then thermal insulation (sawdust, expanded polystyrene, basalt wool);
- foam block. They are also cheaper and faster than a brick extension, while foam block walls can be erected on a light foundation, and adhesive rather than cement is used for fastening. The blocks are large, and therefore construction is completed much faster.
Depending on the number of floors, one- and two-story extensions can be found. A larger number of floors is not typical for this type of structure near a private house.
Almost any room can be built into extensions. There are insulated and seasonal structures. If this part of the house is insulated (major), then there may even be bedrooms or a bathroom.
Main options:
- pantry or utility room;
- bath or sauna;
- bathroom;
- winter Garden;
- veranda or terrace;
- regular covered porch;
- full room.
Article on the topic: design and photography.
How to make an extension to a wooden house:
- Select the location where the building will be located. Decide on its functional purpose, area and your financial capabilities.
- Select the material for the walls and roof, the type of foundation. It is better if the base is the same, but you should not overpay and do monolithic foundation for simple and easy summer veranda. Most often, a strip foundation is chosen for an extension, but sometimes you can get by with a columnar one.
- Create a preliminary construction project and calculate the approximate cost of the work.
- Choose the joining method and the place where the door from the house to the extension will be located. Most often, the opening is made from a former window.
- Fill the foundation of the selected type.
- Attach the frame posts to the walls of the house. Usually bolts or screws are used.
- Make pillars for a regular pitched roof in 1.5 m increments.
- Perform the strapping and lay the roofing covering, ensure a sealed joint between the roof and the extension. It is best to re-lay the roof so that it is a single sheet.
- If the building may sag slightly, then do not rush to install windows and doors.
Now you can imagine how to make an extension to a wooden house. Choose the appropriate foundation and wall material and start expanding your living space!
Hello! We have a brick house on a subdivision; we want to add another room on one side measuring approximately 3 m wide by 6 m long, made of foam blocks and also insulate it. HOW IS IT BETTER TO DO THIS AND HOW MUCH WILL IT COST?
Zhulin Evgeniy, NIZHNY NOVGOROD REGION.
Hello, Evgeny from Nizhny Novgorod province!
I don’t quite understand what you mean by the concept of “on the farm”. I think it's just in the area next to the house. And close to him.
And so you are not the only one who is adding additional premises to the existing structure. A lot of people do this.
Let me first tell you how to do it building regulations and the canons, and then about possible options.
In the most optimal cases, an extension to the house is planned at the stage of construction of the main house. That is, they immediately make the entire homogeneous foundation for the main house and for those extensions (verandas, porches, etc.), which for a number of reasons cannot be done at once (no time, no money, etc.).
And when an urgent need arises, the mothballed part of the foundation is opened, cleaned, and what they wanted is built over it.
But this option is extremely rare. Most often, construction requires the construction of a new foundation. Ideally, this new foundation should be exactly the same as the main one under the existing house.
If it differs, then all sorts of movements of the new foundation and, as a rule, deformation of the attached part of the house are possible. You have probably encountered cases yourself when you walk past an old house, and there is, say, a veranda attached to the side and it is all lopsided, and along the junction of its walls and roof with the old main building there are cracks and displacements.
The physical meaning of this phenomenon is that the new foundation is either buried to a shallower depth, or its parameters differ significantly from the main foundation (in width, in material, in the presence of a sand cushion under it and many other things). I will not describe all the features; for this, many pages of neat text need to be written.
Therefore, you should inspect how the foundation under the main house is made. For this purpose, it is best to drill into the soil in several places directly next to the foundation. Then it will be possible to see what and how it is made of, what its depth is, whether there is a sand cushion under it, what material it is made of - rubble stone, boulders, reinforced concrete, brick or something else.
Then they dig a trench under the foundation of the extension, in your case for a room. In your latitudes, the depth of soil freezing varies around 1.6 - 1.8 meters. That is, you must dig the soil to such a depth. And even 15 centimeters deeper. Cover the reserve of these 15 centimeters with the same layer of sand. This layer is called compensation or something else. It serves so that soil moisture that gets here (or can get there) can be absorbed.
Such a sand cushion absorbs and releases moisture without changing its geometric parameters. And if instead of sand you just have earth or a layer of clay, then when this layer gets wet and further possible freezing, the resulting ice will push the foundation located above it up and raise the house.
Difficult? What to do is a theory and far from complete.
The width of the foundation is the same as the thickness of your future wall. If, for example, you have a foam concrete block measuring 20/20/40 centimeters, then it is better to lay the blocks so that the wall thickness is 40 centimeters. With additional insulation, this is quite enough for our harshest winters. Provided that the room inside is heated.
It is possible to lay a wall half a block thick, but it is not advisable; even an additional layer of insulation of 100 millimeters will not be sufficient. /I don’t provide tables and calculations, it would take too long to describe/.
I would not recommend using other types of foundations for your case. It would be possible to use a pile or point foundation instead of the strip foundation described above, but there you will have to use a grillage, and you will have to tinker with it.
The following types are often used as insulation: mineral wool, ursa, isover, basalt fiber and some others. I do not recommend using polystyrene foam or high-density polystyrene foam insulation for living rooms. Their ineradicable smell of chemicals is unpleasant in itself, but in addition it can also cause allergies.
Insulation in your case can be located both on the outside and on the outside of the foam concrete walls. Locate from the inside, less usable volume of living space. If outside, then increase the external parameters of the building.
Let's say you place the insulation from the inside (this is done more often).
The procedure for installing insulation is as follows: Beacons are attached flat to the wall, that is, with the wide side (antiseptic wooden planks with a cross-section of about 20/50 millimeters).
When the height of the room is about 2.3 - 3 meters and the further arrangement of the internal wall cladding is vertical (lining, panels, plasterboard sheets), the bars are sewn parallel to the ground surface in four rows. The bottom row is directly above the surface of the future floor, the top row is under the ceiling, and the other two are at regular intervals from the first and last rows.
In the case of plasterboard sheathing, vertical strips are sometimes added along the joints of its sheets. If there are window openings, they are also decorated with strips around the perimeter.
Why do they drill holes for dowel-nails through the bars in the foam concrete blocks with a carbide drill and a hammer drill (or just an electric drill, this will work fine for foam concrete). The diameter of the drill is equal to the diameter of the plastic dowel.
Then glassine or thermal film is attached to these beacons. Otherwise vapor barrier film. Be skeptical about names; there are now dozens of them. In any hardware store you can choose one to suit your taste. Look at the accompanying label, everything is described there as well as what.
Position the film so that its smooth, waterproof side faces the foam concrete, and its rough side faces the inside of the house. Roll out the film around the perimeter of the room. Start from the ceiling, then the second row of film will overlap the top one and if there is condensation between the film and the foam concrete wall, the moisture will drain without getting on the insulation.
Fastening is carried out with stapler staples. If you don't have any, just use small nails.
Glassine (PS-200 - PS-250) can be used and not be afraid of its slight odor in the room in the future for the reason that it will still be covered with other materials.
Then, on the lighthouses, directly over them, wooden blocks with a cross-section of 50/50 millimeters are installed (and if the insulation is not 50, but 100 millimeters thick, then with a cross-section of 50/100 millimeters so that this insulation fits) or a metal profile made of galvanized iron with a shelf width equal to the thickness of the future insulation layer.
This second row of bars (or profiles) is secured with black screws and a screwdriver. You'll have a hard time turning it with a screwdriver. I won’t describe the intricacies of the fasteners, you can guess for yourself what’s best. The main thing is that the structure does not dangle or shake.
Then, between these beacons, the insulation, which was discussed above, is laid. For better fixation, use self-tapping screws of the required length and with galvanized iron plates. You can cut them yourself from a galvanized sheet (there are also ready-made purchased ones). It looks like a fungus. Use a screwdriver to screw it into foam concrete to a shallow depth. The cap presses the insulation, and the screw itself prevents the insulation from sliding down.
Then roll out the second layer of film (here glassine is no longer desirable due to the smell). They fasten it. For wooden beacons this is not a problem. But for metal profiles it’s more difficult; this is done either with glue or self-tapping screws (the smallest ones in existence).
It turns out to be a wall of blocks, then an air gap, insulation with films on both sides. Sheathing.
Some customers don't make an air gap, it's easier that way. It’s not fatal, but construction theorists still recommend doing it without fail. Bringing its necessity under the principles of thermodynamics.
Then they cover the walls with the material you chose. Wooden lining, block house, OSB boards, panels from the material of your choice, plasterboard, plywood, hardboard. Depending on taste and availability of the required amount of money. All of the materials listed have both advantages and disadvantages.
The worst option is hardboard. It always jars after a while. All materials containing chemical components (various resins, formaldehydes and plasticizers), no matter what manufacturers and sellers say, are environmentally unsafe. Even plywood.
So what remains is plasterboard (which is what is most often used), or lining - a block house. As natural materials, they are an excellent thing from an environmental point of view.
Their only drawback is that over time they can become dirty in some places. Then they need to be cleaned with sandpaper. Or coat with compounds with minimal content harmful additives such as cover, aquatex, etc.
As for your question, how much will it cost, that’s a dead question. I always answer the question, usually from female clients who want to build something and who want to know the price of the question: “How much do perfumes cost?”
They immediately say: “Well, tell me, it depends on what kind - Russian, French, what company, the size of the bottle, the place of sale - in a fancy store or in a gateway.” Etc.
But in construction these are much more serious calculations. The price range can be an order of magnitude different. That is, your extension can be built for one hundred thousand rubles or three hundred thousand. (This means everything from the foundation to the roof and finishing).
Why is that? Just. In one place you can buy materials at one price, and in another place - at a different price. Let’s say you can line the interior walls with “prima” class lining (the same as “extra”), or you can line the “C” class lining, their price per square meter differs by one and a half times.
In the Nizhny Novgorod province, a foam concrete block can cost half as much as near St. Petersburg, and so on.
Therefore, they first draw up a construction estimate. It includes the cost of all materials required for construction without exception. The list in your case will be about fifty items. Don't believe me? Let's roughly describe it. Foam concrete blocks, cement, sand, crushed stone, reinforcement, edged boards, knitting wire, nails, dowels, self-tapping screws, angles, fastening brackets and staplers, metal plates, all in stock.
Plywood, roofing felt, glassine, films, substrates, floorboards (as an option - hardboard, laminate, linoleum, parquet, etc.).
Lighthouses (made of a wooden block or metal profile), roofing material(slate or profile, shinglas or ondulin, metal or clay tiles, etc.) Galvanized iron (for roof aprons).
Floor joists (edged boards, or timber, or logs of various sections).
Window blocks (with glass, glazing beads, hinges, corners, handles, latches, window latches).
Paints, all kinds of coatings and antiseptics.
And some other materials and components.
Impressive? But in order not to create confusion in your head, you should take several sheets of blank paper and write a general list. Why do they first write down everything necessary for the foundation, then for the walls, for the floor, for the roof and for the cladding and coatings-paints of all these components extension.
And you will still forget to write something. Therefore, this is not a matter of one day and hour, but perhaps a week or even more.
After compiling a list of what is needed, they calculate how much is needed in meters, square meters, cubic meters, cars, kilograms, liters, bags, rolls, and so on.
Then they write how much each unit of material costs and multiply this price by its quantity.
And the price is determined not only at one place of purchase, but across all nearby stores, markets, and wholesale warehouses. Sometimes it is cheaper to bring material from afar than to pay those traders who are nearby.
And at the same time, you need to look at the quality of the material; as a rule, good material is more expensive, although this is not always the case. And by the amount of material in the packaging or container. Sometimes there are actually so many meters of film in a roll, but in 90 cases it is written on the label, which is two to three meters more. You think that there will be enough of it for your project, you bring it, roll it out, but from five rolls there is a shortage of about ten meters.
So there are a lot of nuances.
The material must be delivered to the construction site. Therefore, the price of transport services is added to the estimate.
The material must be loaded onto and unloaded from the machine. It’s one thing when you throw a couple of boxes of nails or other small items into your Zhiguli. But it’s completely different when you need to bring several cubic meters of lumber. It is, of course, possible (if young and healthy) to load and unload everything alone, but it will take a lot of time, the truck is standing still, and the driver demands to throw a table or two on top for a simple task.
Therefore, movers and neighbors have to be involved in these matters. Not everyone will do this for free.
The next thing that is included in the estimate is wages for hired workers. I don’t rule out the possibility that you can do everything yourself without outside help, but your time is also worth something.
If during this time you can earn elsewhere several times more than what hired craftsmen charge for such work, then it is better to entrust it to them.
The best thing is to find a good foreman (or foreman, if you like) who will organize everything and do everything. All you have to do is occasionally monitor the progress and quality of work. But even here there is a danger of running into an unprofessional.
During my many years of practice in coven work, I have seen all sorts of miracles more than once. But this is a long conversation.
Everything that has been said may be superfluous or insufficient in some places, but you can see in detail how to draw up an estimate on my website in the sections on building a house and building a bathhouse. Those materials are outdated only in terms of prices; they have changed over several years and not less.
If I sum up our conversation, I will say the following. If you decide to build and you really need it, then start. Count, weigh, decide what and how. Despite all the difficulties, people build and everything works out. It is not the gods who burn the pots.
Money is candy wrappers, today it is there, but tomorrow it is gone. And they can be spent on trifles, or they can build something that will be useful to both children and grandchildren.
If you were able to read everything he said, it wouldn’t hurt.
Other questions on the topic of extensions to premises:
- How to fill the gap between slag and timber walls
Good afternoon, master! There is a 7x8 log house, it is necessary to increase the living space. The house is about 50-60 years old. We can't choose between:
1. Make a frame 2nd floor or 2. Make an extension (and which is better? I’m leaning towards timber without connection to the house, but close). Doubts consist of the following. The foundation under the house is simply 4 layers of brick, which are clearly no longer fresh (although in the basement there is 1.2 m high brick masonry laid around the entire perimeter at a distance of 0.5 m from the foundation - I don’t know what it’s called correctly so that the soil doesn’t squeezed out).
The lower crown on at least one of the most unprotected sides (the others have not yet been opened) must be replaced, and the other parts must also be changed. The roof is now hipped. Need advice on whether to think about the second floor with such initial data? Although, in theory, we will still repair the lower crown. Or financially, all this will be much more expensive than an extension - this is also one of the main questions, which will be cheaper. The lower crown lies practically on the ground, so they just wanted to cut it out and raise the foundation (well, so as not to lift the house or move it).
The question is whether to raise the foundation with masonry or to fill the brick with concrete upwards and wider. Which one is better? Actually, all the other logs in the log house are good.
If you make an extension, is it better if there is no common wall? not to get attached? Or you can. And please write which one is better to make the foundation in both cases. Thank you!
Oleg, Berezniki, Perm region.
Hello, Oleg from Berezniki!
If you do not go into details and speculate pointlessly without seeing with your own eyes the state of your foundation, then it is hardly possible to significantly strengthen the foundation of the described house. At a stretch, 4 layers of brick can be considered a foundation.
Therefore, replacing one lower crown is unlikely to radically change the situation.
Therefore, the load from a built-on second floor, even a frame one, may not have the best effect on your home. Building an extension is most likely a better idea.
For joint “body movements” of the old house and the new extension, ideally, completely equal characteristics are needed. Which is achieved only through full compliance of their foundations. Since this is hardly achievable due to the nature of some of their data, it is better to make the extension autonomous, without a strict connection to the old house.
It's not that difficult to do. Since most often the problem is only in designing the door opening from the extension to the main house in such a way that with possible vertical movements of the house and the extension, there will not be excessive gaps at the joints.
You must have seen how two separate bodies of a long passenger bus are connected to each other through a kind of corrugated vestibule. And the space is united and relative movements can take place without destruction.
The same thing should happen in your building. This is usually achieved by using mineral soft insulation at the joints. With all kinds of linings and decorative elements covering this insulation from the effects of primarily atmospheric precipitation. Each time and in each individual case this is decided strictly individually. With a certain amount of imagination of the builders.
In this case, great importance is attached to the connection of the roof of the extension with the roof (or the wall of the main house, if the extension is lower than the roof of the main house). Otherwise, there will be water leaks at the joint.
If the roofs of these individual parts are in the same plane, then the roofing sheets of the extension are structurally placed under the roof of the main house without their rigid connection and with the possibility of vertical displacement of the roof of the extension relative to the roof of the house itself. Typically down.
If the roof of the extension rests its end on the vertical wall of the main house, that is, it is lower than the main roof, then a metal apron made from a strip of roofing iron is attached to the wall at the desired angle (obtuse).
In this case, the apron may not be attached to the roof of the extension. And to eliminate the gap between it and the roof of the extension, foaming it with macroflex foam is usually sufficient.
See for yourself on the issue of foundation repair. Both the options you are talking about will not strengthen it much. Financial costs will be approximately equal. But in this case there is a simpler solution; there is no need to deal with the installation and dismantling of formwork for pouring and other not very convenient manipulations.
I don’t know how much my free thoughts on the topic of the question you asked will help in reality, but reading them won’t make you worse.
So start with the foundation and the outbuilding, and experience and understanding in solving problems will come with time.
Other questions on the topic of extensions to premises:
- How to fill the gap between slag and timber walls
One of the significant advantages of a private house is the ability to expand the living space. You can build an extension near the house or add a second floor. In the article we will focus on the key points of planning and construction of an additional floor on a finished building. When starting to build a new house, the second floor can be immediately included in the construction project.
Full second floor or attic
The upper part of a residential building can be designed in different ways - it can be a full floor or an attic. The choice in favor of one or another option must be made based on the following parameters.
Second floor extension: risk assessment
A final decision on the construction of the second floor of the house should be made only after a technical inspection of the building. You can order an examination from a specialized organization that has the appropriate license and certificates to conduct activities.
An engineering survey will determine:
- technical condition of the foundation, walls and attic floors;
- availability of the necessary reserve of rigidity and strength;
- way to strengthen the structure.
As a result of the examination, the company will provide the customer with the following documents:
- inspection reports and technical conclusion;
- technical condition passport;
- design verification calculations;
- recommendations for the operation of the building and elimination of defects;
- recommendations for reconstruction.
An experienced expert will calculate the economic feasibility of the superstructure and give practical recommendations on how to build the second floor of the house
Second floor construction technologies
To build the second floor of a private house, several technologies are used:
- masonry;
- usage reinforced concrete structures(polystyrene concrete);
- wood laying;
- frame-panel technology;
- prefabricated structures.
The use of brick and reinforced concrete is usually possible after strengthening the walls and foundation or on separate “piles” that are located around the perimeter of the entire house. In wooden houses, the second floor is made of timber, but the final finishing can be done no earlier than in a year.
Strengthening a structure is quite labor-intensive and costly work. If there are no financial opportunities and time, then the superstructure can be made from lightweight frame panels or a prefabricated structure.
Advantages of frame technology:
- light weight;
- low cost of materials;
- fire safety;
- ability to carry out work in any weather conditions.
On construction market ready-made prefabricated structures have appeared, which consist of individual elements and are assembled into a single structure already at the construction site. They are made from various materials, the most common are wooden trusses and frames; the joining of elements occurs through a keyed connection.
The most practical and easy-to-assemble glued structures of bent type, fastened in a hinged way. However, due to their high cost, they are rarely used in domestic construction.
Frame and truss structures made of metal have proven themselves well in mass construction. They are reliable and affordable, their only drawback is the difficulty of lifting the parts to the top. Often it is necessary to use heavy construction equipment.
Ways to strengthen the foundation and walls of a house
In order for a new building to be safe, strong and durable, it may be necessary to strengthen the foundation and walls. Let's consider the main ways to strengthen the structure.
At strengthening the foundation of a wooden house Usually one side of the support is replaced, and if necessary, a complete replacement is carried out. Two strong men can strengthen a worn-out foundation. The house is completely cleared of furniture, household appliances and belongings, the doors are removed and the floor is dismantled. The building is then raised with hydraulic jacks and a new pile or strip foundation is laid under the foundation.
Strengthening the foundation with an armored belt- a protective, monolithic belt is erected on the outside. Reinforced belt is a closed reinforced concrete strip that follows the contours of the walls. A trench is dug along the perimeter of the entire house along the old foundation (width - 0.5 m, depth - 0.8 m more than the level of the old foundation). A “cushion” of sand, crushed stone and gravel is laid at the bottom of the trench, and the sheathing is made of boards and plywood.
Clean the old foundation, treat it with a deep penetration primer, drive several rows of horizontal pins into the foundation (distance - 25 cm) and weld them to the reinforcement. Lay a metal mesh over the reinforcement and fill it with concrete.
Repair and strengthening of the walls of a house after reinforcement with an armored belt is carried out no earlier than a year later, since the new foundation may shrink
Sometimes, to build an attic or a “light” second floor it is enough strengthen the corners of the house. The corners are dug to a diameter of about 1 meter and to a depth of more than 0.5 m from the old base. A grid of reinforcement (cell size - 20*20 cm) is welded to the metal rods of the old foundation, and the space is filled with concrete solution.
The walls and foundation of the house can be unloaded. For this, an external or internal frame is erected.
External frame. Along the contour of the house, columns and single-span beam-walls are installed on an independent foundation - they act as load-bearing structures and partitions. Between the wall of the house and the beams you can place a balcony or arrange a loggia.
Structurally, the second floor is in no way connected with the first floor of the house and rests on its “own” piles. In fact, it is a separate building on long stilts; two houses are connected by common communications.
Inner frame - bearing structures are built inside the house. The load from the second floor superstructure is distributed between the old load-bearing walls and the reinforcing frame.
Do-it-yourself second floor of a house: step-by-step progress of work
Let's consider the construction of a second floor from frame panels, which can be purchased ready-made or made independently.
To create building panels use:
- wooden beams (hold volume and shape);
- chipboard sheets for external cladding of panels;
- thermal insulation material - mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, etc. (insulation thickness is about 16 mm).
A frame is constructed from the beams, an external panel is screwed to it, filled with insulation and covered with a second sheet of chipboard.
Sequence of construction of an additional floor:
You need to think in advance about the placement of the stairs to the second floor of the house. When arranging a full-fledged residential floor, the staircase opening is made from the hallway or living room. You can access the attic from the terrace, veranda or corridor.
Opening and staircase to the second floor of the house: photo
To create interior walls, it is better to use plasterboard sheets - they are lightweight and will not create additional load on the walls and foundation of the house
Features of the construction of an attic floor
Second floor design: photo
To the second floor mansard type You can take out the living room. A small room seems quite spacious thanks to large windows and good lighting.
The bedroom is on the full second floor. White furniture refreshes the room and makes the room brighter. This technique is especially relevant for rooms decorated with wood and lining.
In the attic you can arrange a cozy home cinema. The interior used natural materials - wood, and artificial ones - plastic panels. Colorful bean bags and cushions add comfort and warmth.
The curved shapes of the ceiling appear softer thanks to the light colors and textile frame of the window.
Staircase to the attic floor, decorated with artistic forging.
A relaxation terrace on the roof of a house is a fashionable and practical option for arranging a flat roof.
Design of the second floor hall. The use of mirrors made it possible to visually expand the narrow corridor.
Adding a second floor with your own hands is a responsible task. Without taking into account the strength of the foundation and walls or incorrectly calculating the load on the interfloor floors, instead of constructing a second floor, a major overhaul of the entire house may be required!
What you need to know when building a second floor with your own hands
Erecting new house, where the second floor is already included in the project, you don’t have to worry about the foundation and walls - they are designed for the given loads. If you need to increase the living space of a habitable house, it is better not to save money and order an examination. From its results you can find out:
- technical condition of the foundation and walls;
- recommended measures to strengthen load-bearing structures;
- the most appropriate methods of superstructure in a particular situation;
- calculations of the future superstructure.
If it is not possible to order an examination, it is better to build the second floor using load-bearing supports on your own foundation.
What to choose – a full floor or an attic?
Most often, the choice is based on financial capabilities. The attic floor turns out to be cheaper - there is no need to build walls, and all costs go towards insulating the roofing pie. The load on the building is also less, which makes it possible to make the walls and foundation less strong, and, as a result, cheaper.
But in rooms with sloping walls you will have to think carefully about the interior design - wardrobes, shower cabins or bunk beds It will most likely not be possible to deliver. For these purposes, it is better to build a full floor with an unheated attic. Construction costs will increase significantly, but in the long run such a house is much more convenient for a large family.
Where to put the ladder?
When thinking about adding a floor to a residential building, they rarely think about how they will have to get up there every day. But you will have to install a ladder, and the convenience and safety of use depends on its shape and size.
If the house is small, then a straight flight of stairs is absolutely not suitable. So, with a step size of 30x15 cm and a staircase inclination of 35 degrees, the length of its span will be 5 m, and the length of the base will be 4 m. Of course, if it is possible to sacrifice part of the first floor, then you can conveniently organize a wardrobe under such a staircase. In its highest part there will be hangers for outerwear, and in the low part there will be drawers for shoes.
Marching rotary stairs allow you to reduce the length of the platform by half, but increase its width. It will no longer be possible to use the space under it with maximum benefit - depending on the design, you can install a sofa, a couple of armchairs or a rack with plants under it.
Spiral staircases are the most compact and most inconvenient. Just imagine how you will have to lift or lower furniture or other bulky objects along it. But if there is no alternative, it is better to choose the maximum possible spiral diameter.
Features of the construction of the second floor in a house under construction
Making the second floor is no more difficult than building the first - the construction of the walls is the same, and the interfloor ceilings are made according to the same scheme as the floors of the first floor. Wooden floors are most often used in both wooden and brick houses - they are beautiful, environmentally friendly and very easy to install with your own hands.
Installation of interfloor ceilings
It is not recommended to make spans larger than 6 m, and the average load for a residential second floor is 350-400 kg/m2. If you plan to install massive and heavy furniture, a cast-iron bathtub or a heating boiler, you will have to make a special calculation.
When laying floor beams, you need to consider several points:
If the temperature differences between floors are significant, then the floor pie should consist of:
- filings from the 1st floor side;
- vapor barriers;
- sound insulation (more dense material);
- insulation;
- vapor-permeable membrane;
- finished floor of the 2nd floor.
Under no circumstances should you use vapor-tight materials on the side of the colder upper floor - condensation and rotting of the floor beams are guaranteed.
Construction of the walls of the second floor
You can raise the walls immediately after laying the beams and subfloor. Very often you can find houses where the first floor is brick, and the second floor is wooden or frame. In this case, it is important not to forget about laying waterproofing between the wood and the brick. The principle of constructing the second floor is similar to building a house on a foundation - the bottom frame is made and the beams are laid.
The disadvantage of this solution is the different heat capacity of the walls, and, as a result, the heat load on the heating system. This must be taken into account when planning before purchasing a boiler - its power may not be enough for the whole house.
The principle of adding another floor to an already finished building is almost the same, with the exception of dismantling work - the roof and attic floor are completely removed. Using columns on your own foundation, installed along the outer perimeter of the house, you can not only increase bearing capacity buildings, but also significantly expand the living space.
Columns can be made of screw or bored piles, or made of brick. In the first case, the piles are buried to the load-bearing layer of soil - for sandy and sandy loam soils this is to a depth of 1 m. For brick columns, it is necessary to tie the corners for structural strength.
The roofing pie should be designed so that condensation does not form on the insulation, and air circulates freely under the roofing. And how to design and plan an attic is described in detail in the video: