How to attach insulation to a wall - a list of basic methods. Technology of wall insulation with mineral wool Laying mineral wool on walls

Insulation of the walls of a house is carried out when the house is intended for living and the walls do not retain heat sufficiently.

All devices for heating a house (steam, stove, gas heating) consume maximum energy, but the heat is not retained.

By carrying out thermal insulation, you can ensure a comfortable environment in the house by insulating the walls, because a wall is a vulnerable place in a house that experiences high wind loads.

If the walls are not insulated sufficiently, the cold easily penetrates into the house.

Insulating walls from the inside or outside is an individual decision. A less popular method of insulation is from the inside. With this method, the area of the room is significantly reduced.

This disadvantage of the method plays an important role in deciding the method of thermal insulation in favor of external insulation work. In addition, there is a high probability of moisture occurring inside the wall, this is especially true in regions with high humidity.

Insulation of walls from the outside is carried out significantlymore often. This method requires more costs, but the internal living space in the house is preserved, which is important especially in houses whose area is already small.

Methods of wall insulation

Types of thermal insulation, their advantages and disadvantages

Among the many insulation materials, those that are most suitable in terms of their physical characteristics and heat-insulating properties predominate.

What is the best way to perform external insulation? The main types of wall insulation intended for external thermal insulation are:

(good thermal insulator, resistant to deformation, waterproof, but poor vapor permeability, risk of damage by rodents, toxic when burned);
(low water resistance, durability, resistance to temperature changes, but is vapor-tight, susceptible to rodents);
(durable, low thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to temperature changes, no seams during application, however, it can create pressure in the cracks of the building, susceptible to ultraviolet radiation, low fire safety during application);
(excellent heat insulator, sound insulator, non-flammable, durable, but during installation it releases harmful formaldehydes);
(waterproofing, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, durability, no seams, not affected by mold, rodents, however, it shrinks during application, which can provoke peeling, recommended for combined insulation);
glass wool(thermal insulation, sound insulation, not affected by mold, rodents, fire safety, moisture resistance, non-toxic, but due to the fragility of the fibers requires additional protection);
fiberboard(thermal insulation, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, durability, but despite all the positive properties it is short-lived, not recommended for rooms with high humidity: baths, saunas);
cork material(lightweight, durable, non-flammable, environmentally friendly, heat insulator, sound insulator, but quite expensive). In addition, there are other materials, but they are less popular.

Choice of insulation

Differences in insulation of aerated concrete, wooden, brick houses

The method of insulation depends on what material the walls of the house are made of. If we compare houses made of wood, brick and aerated concrete, we can highlight the following points that deserve attention:

Unlike brick walls and aerated concrete houses, a prerequisite for installation is the installation of sheathing to ensure ventilation. Installation of sheathing of block walls is carried out only under or other suspended cladding;
the most suitable insulation materials for aerated concrete and brick walls are materials with a high moisture resistance (penoplex, expanded polystyrene), while for wooden houses, the ideal insulation is breathable mineral wool slabs;
the thermal conductivity of a brick wall is higher than that of an aerated concrete wall, so the wall must either be insulated with a thicker layer of insulation, or the thickness of the brickwork must be increased;
when externally insulating a wooden house, you should carefully prepare the surface by treating it with antiseptics;
Most often, attaching the layers of a wooden wall requires the installation of chipboard or OSB sheathing.

In addition, you should keep in mind all the indicators of the materials from which the walls are built, such as moisture resistance, thermal conductivity and heat resistance.

How to calculate the thickness of insulation for walls

Before purchasing insulation, you must correctly calculate thickness of the purchased material.

An indicator of the thickness of a material is the result of thermal resistance. The value for each region is different and is determined in accordance with the readings of SNiP.

For the region of the central part of the Eurasian continent it is approximately equal to three.

The thickness of the insulation layer is equal to the difference between this indicator according to SNiP and the total amount of thermal conductivity of each material that is present in the wall.

To determine the thermal conductivity coefficient for each material, use the formula:

P=R/K ,

where R is the thickness of the material, K is an indicator of its thermal conductivity (the manufacturer indicates on the packaging).

After adding all the coefficients, the value is subtracted from three. This results in the thickness of the material required for insulation.

Wall pie device

A wall pie is a collection of layers of materials that are laid vertically in a certain order.

Each layer of the wall pie has its own laying characteristics. If the sequence of layers is disrupted, there is a risk of destruction of the entire structure.

The construction of a wall pie for external insulation must correspond to the order of laying materials, starting from the inside of the walls:

interior decoration;
internal load-bearing layer (plasterboard, sheathing);
vapor barrier (required in frame houses);
load-bearing wall;
insulation;
waterproofing (depending on insulation);
sheathing;
ventilation gap (depending on the heat insulator);
finishing.

Wooden wall pie

This scheme for laying materials should be followed if the house is timber, frame or log.

If the wall is brick or aerated concrete, then the wall pie is slightly different:

interior decoration;
Brick wall;
insulation;
ventilation gap (if mineral wool is used);
load-bearing layer on the outside or sheathing (if it is necessary to install façade materials);
finishing (plaster, siding, porcelain stoneware).

"Wet" wall cake

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing for external insulation is necessary when attaching siding as an external wall finish. With vertical siding, the sheathing is attached horizontally, and vice versa: with horizontal siding - vertically.

The sheathing can be made from wooden beams or their metal profile.

Lathing made of beams

Before you start lathing, you need to prepare the beams: treat them with an antifungal agent.

saw off the beam of the required size;
secure the brackets around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws according to preliminary markings;
secure the timber as guides along the right and left sides of the wall;
If there is no thermal insulation, then the beam must be attached to the wall by drilling holes for dowels and securing it with self-tapping screws.

Perform lathing along the entire wall; if necessary, level the surface, use special mounting wedges.

Lathing made of beams

Profile lathing

The metal profile should be secured using hangers and brackets.

Installation of metal sheathing:

fix the profile on the right side of the wall and on the left so that there is at least 100 mm from the corner to the guide;
According to the markings, drill holes for dowels and attach brackets along the entire wall;
if thermal insulation is installed, then the insulation boards are pinned onto the brackets;
lay a vapor barrier in the same way as insulation;
install metal profiles along the edges of the wall;
Use a thread to set the height of the profile and secure the profile along the entire wall;
between the elements, fasten stiffening ribs from the remains of the profile.

NOTE!

It is better to choose metal profiles for siding with curved edges.

It is best to use a good quality aluminum profile.

Profile lathing

Why do you need a counter-lattice?

Lathing and counter-lattice are concepts that are often confused. The lathing is necessary for attaching covering elements to it.

The counter-lattice is attached perpendicular to the sheathing and performs the function of ventilation and at the same time secures the water barrier.

Counter battens must be installed in the walls on the sheathing or on the rafters.

The walls of houses equipped with counter-lattice are called ventilated.

With a ventilated facade, the properties of the cake materials are preserved and the formation of moisture and mold is prevented.

Installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier

When installing waterproofing outside the wall of a wooden house, it can be done:

by applying a special solution to the walls;
using additional materials (waterproofing polyurethane foam).

If the wall is brick, then you can use special solutions or resort to an adhesive form of waterproofing: roofing felt. Glue it vertically, overlapping, removing any air bubbles that have formed and gluing the joints with mastic.

When using decorative facing materials, special plaster waterproofing is used.

Waterproofing mineral wool

When installing a vapor barrier from the outside, films should be used that protect the wall surface from the outside and allow moisture to pass through from the walls.

Installation of vapor barrier films comes down to the following rules:

they should be laid between the insulation layer and the wall;
provide a gap for ventilation between layers;
Lay the film overlapping, glue the joints, secure the film with staples.

If the vapor barrier is installed on a round beam, then there is no need to install a ventilation gap. In the case of square boards, this is a must.

External wall insulation with mineral wool for siding

For effective wall insulation with mineral wool the surface should be prepared for subsequent installation work: clear debris, seal cracks, remove gutters and other decorative elements, apply markings, attach hangers.

laying mineral wool slabs from bottom to top between the guide posts end-to-end, placing the material on hangers and attaching with dowel nails;
seal the cracks with pieces of insulation;
cover the vapor barrier membrane in the same way as insulation;
attach racks to hangers;
then proceed to cladding.

Metal sheathing

This method is suitable for metal profiles.

If wooden beams are used, then insulation with mineral wool is somewhat different:

Attach the beams to the prepared wall with corners at a distance of the width of the mineral wool slab;
the insulation is laid end-to-end between the studs, secured with a pair of dowels, and the cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam;
if a second layer of insulation is needed, then counter-battens are attached to the racks and mineral wool slabs are laid between them;
a diffusion membrane is attached to the frame with staples;
install a counter-lattice, which serves as the basis for fastening the siding panels and creates an air gap in the wall pie.

Wall cake for siding

Fastening mineral wool to the wall with dowels

External insulation technology using foam plastic

To insulate the walls of a private house from the outside, you can use polystyrene foam. The procedure for foam insulation involves the sequence of work performed:

preparation of walls (cleaning of debris, sealing cracks, priming);
applying the necessary markings;
attach a profile at the bottom of the wall, which will serve as the basis for the even laying of the first row of slabs;
attach the foam by applying the adhesive solution, starting from the bottom corner. The second row of sheets is fastened in a cross pattern;
after the glue has completely dried, secure the foam with umbrellas;
The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam, if large, with pieces of polystyrene foam. After hardening, excess foam is cut off;
To finish slopes and corners, you should use special corners that are glued to the reinforcing mesh tape.

Laying sheets in a checkerboard pattern

Fastening sheets

CAREFULLY!

It is better not to insulate wooden houses with polystyrene foam., since with breathable wood it is better to use porous insulation that can allow moisture and air vapor to pass through.

In this case, mineral wool is ideal.

Basic insulation mistakes

External insulation of the walls of a country house must be carried out in accordance with the requirements and rules for installing materials. Errors that most often occur during insulation contribute to improper circulation of air flow and the formation of moisture inside the cake, which leads to a weakening of the thermal insulation qualities:

incorrect calculation of thermal resistance;
if there is no base strip at the bottom of the wall, the insulation may come into contact with the ground;
Expanded polystyrene should not be left in the sun for a long time during installation;
cracks between insulation boards lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
Expansion dowels should be installed at the corners of the building and around doors and windows to securely fasten the material.

In addition, you should not skimp on materials, since in addition to their correct installation, the low quality of the material should not cause poor-quality insulation.

Thus, when insulating walls, the living space is preserved; careful consideration of details is required to calculate the amount of materials and determine the order of installation work.

Useful video

Mineral wool insulation technology in video instructions:

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Wall insulation is an important stage in the construction of any building, be it your home or, for example, a bathhouse. Good thermal insulation is the key not only to warmth in the house, but also to saving money. But it’s not enough to just buy insulation and stick it under the cladding; you need to properly attach the insulation to the wall. So that it stays securely in place throughout its entire lifespan.

And this period is quite long, from 70 years, subject to proper installation in compliance with all technological rules. Today I will talk about these rules, with an emphasis on methods of attaching thermal insulation to the wall surface.

Insulation installation options

At the moment, there are two options for attaching any type of insulation and several additional ones, which I will also mention. By the way, these fastening methods can be used to install both loose insulation and denser slabs.

The main methods of attaching insulation to the wall:

Using glue;
Mechanically, thanks to special dowels.

Let's consider each mounting option separately.

On glue

There are two types of adhesives for installing insulation. Cement-based, a more popular and affordable composition, and adhesives in the form of polyurethane foam, such compositions have better characteristics, but their cost is much higher.

Dense thermal insulation boards, such as expanded polystyrene (popularly polystyrene foam), penoplex, and other insulation materials with similar properties are usually placed on the glue.

Cement-based adhesives must be mixed in a container with cold water before use. Stir the dry composition in water until a thick, homogeneous mass is obtained, reminiscent of the consistency of rich sour cream. It is important to ensure that no lumps form when diluting the adhesive powder, as this may reduce the quality of the composition.

The glue, of course, is not mixed by hand; for this you need to use a special mixer attachment, which, put on a drill or hammer drill, mixes the dry mixture with the liquid at low speeds.

You need to apply glue to the inside of the insulation board, and in order for the glue to bond the insulation to the wall as well as possible, the outside of the insulation needs to be made rough. To achieve this, I recommend using a special roller or brush for working with foam.

In addition, it is necessary to increase the adhesion of the walls. No, you don’t need to make it rough, it’s usually like that from the very beginning. It is enough to coat the surface with a high-quality primer and let it dry. After this, you can install the insulation on the walls.

For dowels

The second most common method of fixing insulation to walls. Sometimes installing thermal insulation on dowels acts as the main method, but more often, it is an addition to installation with glue for more reliable fastening.

All types of insulation, from polystyrene foam to mineral wool, are attached to special dowels that look like mushrooms with a cap. For example, a foam board is first attached to the wall with glue, and then fixed with several umbrellas.

Mineral wool is usually simply applied to the surface and five holes are made through it in the wall, one in the center and four in the corners of the slab. Holes are made in foam plastic in the same way.

After this, a dowel with a cap is driven into the holes until the cap presses the slab against the wall, then an expanding plastic nail is inserted into the dowel, which, using a hammer, firmly secures the dowel in the wall, and as a result, the insulation is securely held in place .

Other technologies

If insulation is carried out with chipboard or OSB panels, then the slabs of this material are attached to the surface with special brackets. Some roll insulation, for example foil, is sometimes produced with an adhesive composition already applied to the inside of the insulation.

Sometimes, fasteners, as such, are not needed at all. This occurs when insulation, usually loose insulation such as mineral wool, is laid flat against a special wooden frame.

Some insulation materials are glued to the wall, just like wallpaper; for example, cork insulation. There is also heat-insulating paint, which is applied to the surface using an ordinary brush or roller.

Styrofoam fastening

Insulating walls with foam plastic is a fairly popular method. As we have already found out, its fastening is usually done with glue, but dowels are often used for additional fixation. Let's look at two installation options.

Fastening foam with glue

The first thing you need to do is find out how smooth the wall you are going to insulate is; a lot depends on this, for example, the method of applying the glue. If the surface is flat, then glue is applied to the insulation, but if the surface has differences, then the adhesive mixture is applied to the wall itself using a spatula. If the load-bearing surface is heavily littered, it must be leveled by plastering.

If doing this is beyond your means or simply too lazy, then I recommend replacing the insulation with mineral wool; in this case, the evenness of the surface does not matter.

So, let’s say the wall of our hypothetical house is more or less even, we can begin installation. We clean the wall from dust and debris, repair cracks and chips, and prime it thoroughly.

While the primer dries, you need to secure a support strip at the bottom of the wall, with a thickness equal to the size of the slab. This is necessary to ensure that the slabs do not slide under their own weight. After the primer has dried, mix the glue as described above, following the instructions written on the package.

Using a needle roller, go over the inside of the insulation and apply glue. It should be left at five points, in the center and in the corners, do not skimp on the glue, the points should be quite massive. After this, proceed to install the foam plastic, from bottom to top, holding each slab for about a minute so that the glue sets.

Additional fastening with dowels

If the insulation is attached to the wall outside the house and it is planned to later make the wall cladding from heavy materials, then the foam plastic, in addition, needs to be pressed to the wall with dowel umbrellas.

There is nothing complicated here, just after the foam has set a little, drill 5 holes in the wall in the same place where you applied the glue. That is, in the center and in the corners. Next, drive the “umbrellas” into them and hammer into them with plastic nails that secure them.

Fastening mineral wool

As mentioned earlier, mineral wool is fixed using umbrella dowels, but this is not enough, since this type of insulation has less rigidity compared to the same foam. In order for the mineral wool to stick well to the wall, you need to build a sheathing.

This is a fairly lengthy process that requires accuracy in calculations. Since it is necessary to correctly calculate the distance between the bars from which the frame will be created. This distance depends on the form in which the mineral wool is planned to be used. In the form of more or less dense slabs, in rolls, or loose insulation will be used.

If the frame is assembled correctly, mineral wool can be laid, even without additional fixation, it will be held apart between the beams. If the cells in the frame exceed the size of the insulation, it may fall out. To prevent this, the mineral wool needs to be additionally secured to the wall with dowels using umbrellas.

The fastening process is the same as in the example with foam. Press the mineral wool against the wall in the right place, take a hammer drill with a drill of the required diameter and length, and drill five holes in the center and corners of the insulation. Hammer in the dowels and secure them to the wall with plastic nails.

Penoplex installation

It is used to insulate walls both inside and outside the house. In terms of its properties, it is the same foam plastic, only foamed, and completely airtight. Its mounting is absolutely no different from the installation of its older brother (foam plastic).

Penoplex can be attached with both glue and umbrellas, and you can also combine these two methods. What is worth paying attention to is that usually slabs made of this material are large in size, so they need to be fastened conscientiously, sparing neither glue nor dowels.

Installation of plaster

Special “warm” plaster mixtures can also be used as insulation. It must be said that this material has no thermal insulation advantages over other insulation materials. But still, insulation with plaster has its place.

To increase the thermal insulation properties of a wall using plaster, it must be applied to the surface in three layers. To do this, the wall must be cleaned of old cladding, if any, and all damage such as cracks and chips must be repaired. Set the plane level using beacons, a plumb line and a horizontal level.

Next, you need to apply a layer of primer to the wall and wait until it dries. Afterwards, you need to mix the first portion of the solution, which will go to the first layer. The composition of the solution for the first layer should contain no more than 30% water.

Apply the solution to a tool called a rule along its entire length, and apply the plaster to the wall using upward movements. In this case, you need to follow the beacons to create a flat surface of the wall.

After the first layer, you need to apply the remaining two, apply the second, in the same way, only the solution will be more liquid, up to 65% water. The third layer is final, contains little moisture and is applied in a thin layer to give the wall an ideal plane. Naturally, it will be perfect if everything is done correctly. You can read more about applying plaster to the wall in other articles on our website.

So, with the help of plaster, you can “kill two birds with one stone”, and level the walls and add more thermal insulation to them. It is also important to remember that to apply the next layer of plaster you need to wait until the previous one dries. Also, each layer, for reliability, must be additionally treated with a primer mixture.

Video “Applying foam adhesive to polystyrene foam”

Video on how to properly apply glue to a foam board. This is the same foam glue that I talked about at the beginning of the article.

The wall of any building must meet several requirements; in addition to being sufficiently strong, it must also retain heat well in the room. Otherwise, heating bills will increase several times.

Traditional building materials such as concrete and brick have good thermal conductivity. Things are somewhat better with wood, but the thickness of wooden walls, as a rule, is not sufficient to effectively retain heat.

Types of thermal insulation materials

To give the walls the required thermal insulation characteristics, various types of heat insulators are used. Most often, either polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) or mineral wool is used. Although quite often ordinary warm plaster is used as a heat-insulating material, its thermal conductivity is almost twice as high as that of foam plastic, and the installation of warm plaster requires much more time and effort.

Foam plastic is popular due to its low thermal conductivity and ease of installation. Not the least role when choosing this material is played by its low weight. The thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is 0.39 W/m2. Depending on the type of wall, the insulation is attached either using an adhesive mixture or using dowels.

Mineral wool. To insulate walls, hard mineral wool is usually used, which is available in the form of mats. Its disadvantages include the need to construct a sheathing made of wooden bars or metal profiles. But the additional installation effort is compensated by excellent heat and sound insulation.

Mineral wool is also available in roll form.

Penoplex differs from polystyrene foam by being completely airtight; it is extruded polystyrene foam (foamed). The method of attaching this insulation to the wall is no different from foam plastic.

Traditional plaster should also be noted as one of the ways to reduce the thermal conductivity of a wall. Warm plaster is performed in 3 layers. The main disadvantage of plaster is its increased thermal conductivity compared to other thermal insulation materials. In addition, drying the plaster will take a long time.

Among the new thermal insulation materials, polyurethane can be noted. After installing the sheathing, it is applied to the wall and adheres to it. After hardening, the excess is cut off. Apart from the high cost, it is practically free of disadvantages.

Methods for attaching insulation to the wall

The technology for attaching insulation strongly depends on the type of base. Also, the choice of fastening depends on the type of thermal insulation material.

Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic). If the wall of the house is concrete or brick, then the slabs can simply be glued. To do this, at the preparatory stage it is enough to just clean the wall from dust and dirt; possible wall defects should be corrected using a plaster mixture.

There are several methods for applying adhesive to foam board. The mixture can be spread using a notched trowel over the entire surface of the slab.

It is allowed to coat the perimeter of the slab with glue and apply the mixture pointwise to the surface of the insulation. In order to attach the insulation to the wall, you just need to press the slab tightly.

Attaching foam boards to the base using dowels is considered a little more difficult. The mount for the insulation has the shape of an umbrella - with a wide cap (it prevents damage to the insulating material). Also, due to the wide cap, the foam plates are tightly pressed to the wall.

As for the placement of dowels, you will need at least 5 of them per slab (4 are placed in the corners and one more in the center). To be on the safe side, many builders place the dowels at a distance of 25 cm from each other. Insulation is attached to wooden walls exclusively using dowels.

When attaching foam boards, you need to pay special attention to the joints. The slabs must fit tightly against one another without gaps or cracks.

To prevent aging of polystyrene foam, a metal mesh is placed on top of it and a layer of plaster is applied, which, in addition to its protective function, also performs a decorative function.

Mineral wool. The main inconveniences when thermally insulating a wall using mineral wool are related to the installation of the sheathing. Wooden blocks are often used for it. The distance between the bars should be slightly smaller than the size of the mineral wool slab itself, in which case the fastening of the insulation will be more reliable. When using hard mineral wool (in the form of slabs), wooden sheathing bars are packed in horizontal and vertical directions, and insulation is inserted into the resulting cells.

Rigid mineral wool boards can be glued to the wall or used as a fastening for insulation with dowels. But it is not recommended to attach them to the wall without lathing; the rigidity of mineral wool is much less than that of foam plastic.

If roll insulation is used, the sheathing bars are placed in a horizontal or vertical direction.

The main problem associated with attaching mineral wool is that the mats can fall out of the sheathing cells. This can happen if the distance between the bars exceeds the dimensions of the insulation board. In this case, you can either redo the sheathing or secure the insulation with threads. To do this, nails are driven from bottom to top into the bars so that the head protrudes 3-5 mm. Then, after placing the insulation, thin wire or strong thread is wound around the protruding nails. This provides a fairly reliable fastening of the insulation.

After this, all that remains is to complete the final finishing of the wall.

Sometimes timber is specially used for lathing, the width of which exceeds the thickness of the insulation. Due to this, an air gap is formed between the mineral wool and, for example, siding. This increases the thermal insulation of the wall.

Plaster, despite the labor-intensive nature of the work, remains a popular thermal insulation material. Performed in 3 layers:

First, a spray is applied to the prepared, cleaned base (thickness 5 - 7 mm). Its purpose is to hide visible defects in the base;

then the main layer of plaster is applied up to 15 cm thick. It is applied in layers of 2 - 2.5 cm. Before applying the next layer, you must wait until the previous one dries;

The finishing layer is a mixture of sand and cement, it creates a smooth plaster surface.

In order not to make a mistake with the composition of the mixture, you can use ready-made “insulating” plaster.

Before plastering, it is necessary to wet the wall so that the concrete or brick does not “suck” the moisture from the plaster mixture. It is possible to make small notches on an excessively smooth wall to provide additional adhesion of the mixture to the base; for this you can also use a regular metal mesh.

Before plastering a wooden wall, it is necessary to fill it with shingles or cover the wall with shingles.

It is possible to create a metal frame from wire. To do this, nails are driven into the wall ½ thickness in a checkerboard pattern. Then their protruding parts are wrapped with wire.

The effectiveness of thermal insulation of the room depends on the correct fastening of the insulation to the wall. Even with a small gap between individual slabs of thermal insulation material, the resulting “cold bridges” will significantly reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Compliance with the technology guarantees the preservation of heat in the room and ensures a long service life of the heat insulator.

All photos from the article

Construction projects built using lumber are becoming increasingly popular. But lumber used in construction is characterized by low thickness and high thermal conductivity. Therefore, sooner or later, the owners of such houses are looking for an answer to a survey on how to fix insulation on a wooden wall and thus reduce heat loss.

In this article we will look at the main points related to the thermal insulation of wooden buildings. We will also list the main difficulties that you may encounter when finishing log houses and log houses and tell you about ways to solve them.

Features of thermal insulation of wooden buildings

When carrying out thermal insulation cladding work on walls made of timber or round timber with your own hands, you may notice that these surfaces are uneven. This is a significant problem, since finishing work in this case requires a special approach. Moreover, the curvature of walls in different directions makes some adjustments in terms of the selection of thermal insulation materials.

There is one more difficulty that must be taken into account before finishing work begins - wooden walls are unstable. Lumber may be slightly deformed, both during shrinkage processes and during operation of the finished building.

In connection with the previously listed points, to insulate walls made of round timber, it is advisable to use heat-insulating materials with a density of no more than 40 kg/m3. If the density of the material is greater, it will not be possible to ensure its tight fit to the surface without the formation of voids.

But unfortunately, low-density materials can only be used on horizontally located surfaces, while the walls are located vertically. The solution to this problem is the use of special facade thermal insulation with a slab configuration.

These plates are installed close to each other during installation. In addition, the installed thermal insulation is covered with windproof and vapor barrier film. As a result of this approach, the space between the insulating material and the surface of the wood does not pose a danger.

Returning to the instability and mobility of walls, we note that this problem is solved by laying thermal insulation into a specially installed wooden frame.

Selection of thermal insulation materials

Today, there are two main types of thermal insulation materials suitable for outdoor use on the market: expanded polystyrene (sheet foam) and mineral wool.

As already mentioned, the use of materials with increased density, which is what polystyrene foam actually is, is not recommended for cladding log buildings, since this thermal insulation is not able to provide a good fit to the largest area of the insulated wall.

Important: External or internal insulation of wooden walls does not allow the use of foam and similar polymeric materials.
This is explained by the inability of such materials to transmit steam.
If wooden surfaces are insulated with polystyrene foam, there is a high probability of rotting and subsequent destruction of the wood.

That is why we will focus on the choice of mineral wool slabs.

This category of insulation is represented by a wide range of products from domestic and foreign manufacturers. The material can have a slab configuration or, with a small thickness, can be supplied in the form of rolls.

As materials for assembling the frame, you can use wooden beams, which are easier to install than metal profiles. To install the slab material, you will need special dowels. Again, you will have to purchase wind and waterproof material.

Calculation of materials

The standard thickness of mineral wool is 50 mm. If the temperature in the region does not drop below -20°C, then it will be enough to lay it in one layer. If frosts are more noticeable in winter, then two layers will be required as insulation with a total thickness of up to 100 mm.

Accordingly, the timber for mounting the frame, when laying one layer of slabs, must have a height of 50 mm, and when laying two layers - at least 100 mm.

Now, in order to calculate the materials, it is necessary to measure the area of the facade, for which we multiply the height of the wall by the length. Based on the obtained figure, we purchase insulation, which is also sold per square meter. We purchase windproof material based on the area of the façade.

In addition to the peculiarities of fixing the insulation, there are also differences in the base material - concrete, brick or wood. Advice from experts will help ensure high-quality work and a warm and quiet home.

4 ways to attach insulation to the wall - aspects of choice

The walls of the building are built according to GOST standards, according to the rules. They must meet the requirements, among which strength occupies the most important place. In addition, they must also be warm. For this, thermal insulation materials are additionally installed. How to attach insulation to a wall is discussed in this article.

Attaching insulation to the wall: features

Installation of insulation indoors and outdoors is almost the same. But, there are some differences:

The lathing method is used indoors. This is a frame created from wooden slats. The material is fixed into it.
This method is rarely used outside due to the nature of the wood. Basically, thermal insulation is attached to foam adhesive or dowels are used.

To choose a fastening method, take into account temperature indicators, load on the wall, constant humidity and other factors that influence the type of fasteners and thermal insulation.

How to firmly attach insulation to any wall

There are 3 main methods for attaching to the walls of a building.

I – sheathing. They create a frame base for ventilated cladding. To do this, choose galvanized metal profiles that are resistant to corrosion and temperature changes.

II – glue. Bonding thermal insulation material has subtleties. First, you need to choose a suitable composition that meets all the requirements. The second is moisture resistance. Further, insulation is rarely simply “set” on glue. Additionally, umbrella dowels are used.

There are 2 types of glue:

dry mixture;
glue-foam.

The first type is released in bags. It is diluted according to the instructions on the package. Adhesive foam is produced in cylinders. It does not need to be diluted with water or stirred. Application is carried out using a construction gun.

To fix the thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. The surface must be cleaned of dust and leveled by applying a layer of plaster.

III – use of dowels. This is the main method for firmly fixing thermal insulation. Dowels are used for both additional and primary fixation.

Each method has its own nuances and features. Before choosing a fixation method, you need to assess the wall surface, as well as compare the factors affecting the materials (temperature, humidity, frost resistance).

Mineral or stone wool

To lay mineral wool, create a sheathing of wooden beams.

The distance between the slats should be less than the size of the wool. In this case, the cotton wool will adhere to the base and hold on.

If the thermal insulation is purchased in slabs (it is stiffer), then the slats are filled in a cellular manner.

The wool in the slabs can be glued or dowels can be used. But, the lathing is mandatory.

When using roll insulation, the slats are filled horizontally or vertically.

For lathing, slats are used in height greater than the thickness of the wool. This creates an air gap between the insulation and the finishing coating. This will increase the thermal insulation of the wall.

Penoplex

Penoplex is often used for insulating private houses and apartments at height. To fix it, glue and dowels are used.

To glue polystyrene foam, a flat surface coated with a primer is required. A support strip is stuffed at the bottom, and glue is applied to the foam sheets. After applying the sheet, you need to hold the material for a while so that the adhesive composition sets.

After the glue has set, holes are made in the sheet for dowels. They will create strength.

This is a porous gas-filled polymer based on polyurethane components. It has a number of distinctive properties, low thermal conductivity. Therefore, it began to be often used in cold regions.

Water and sudden changes in temperature do not affect it. Polyurethane foam is produced as foam. Apply to the surface in 2 ways:

spraying using equipment;
pouring - special equipment is used for this and voids must be equipped.

The insulation warranty period is up to 50 years.

Mounting methods

The choice of fixation method depends on several factors. One of them is the base of the surface: concrete, brick, wood or aerated block.

The glue is used in a dry composition, which requires preliminary preparation: a mixing container, a construction mixer, spatulas. For outdoor use, certain brands are used that meet all the requirements: frost resistance, moisture, temperature changes, maximum heating.
Liquid glue in cans is applied using a construction gun. It must also have features: percentage of adhesion, attitude to moisture, service life.
Dowel umbrellas. There are 3 types: plastic, with a metal pin, with a metal nail and a thermal head. Mostly polymer products or those with a thermal head are used.
Lathing. They are created extremely rarely due to the properties of the tree. Attitude to moisture, temperature changes. Sometimes the sheathing is made from metal profiles. They are galvanized - this is an advantage, since water does not affect them, as does the temperature.
Insulating plasters are also used. They are applied in 3 layers on a reinforced mesh (facade).

Dowels to a concrete wall

Dowels are used to glue thermal insulation to concrete. There are 2 parameters by which you need to choose dowels:

The base is hollow and porous. Based on the concrete base, the load-bearing capacity of the fasteners is calculated.
Fastening type. Plastic fasteners are not designed for heavy loads.

The dowel is firmly attached to the concrete thanks to the antennae located along the rod. They straighten out in the concrete cavity after screwing in the nail (core). There are also dowels, the core of which is not screwed in, but driven in.

To fix the insulation on a concrete base, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

Clean the surface from old coating - lime, chalk, paint. If there is plaster, it needs to be examined.
If there are protrusions on the surface, remove them with a power tool. The cracks are filled, reinforced, and plastered.

If the cracks are not repaired, the wall may crumble. There is no point in insulation.

The surface with mold is dried, cleaned and treated with special products.
After the work is done, the surface is coated with a primer.

The preparatory process is over.

Now, at the bottom you need to fix a wooden auxiliary strip or a galvanized profile. It will hold the insulation and prevent it from “sliding” down.

The profile must be selected based on the dimensions and weight of the thermal insulation being installed.

Fungi to a brick wall

Installing tile insulation on a brick surface is similar to working on a concrete base. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Surface preparation. Checking it for evenness.
Surface treatment with primer.
Insulation boards - polystyrene foam, penoplex, expanded polystyrene - are coated with an adhesive solution. Either use a notched trowel and apply glue evenly over the entire surface, or dot application - place dots of solution in the corners and in the center.
A holder bar is fixed at the bottom of the wall. Install insulation boards.
After the glue has set, each slab is additionally secured with dowels in the corners and in the center.
All joints of the slabs are covered with the same solution.
The last step is covering the surface. Decorative plaster or finishing materials.

Other mounting methods

Roll insulation – mineral wool, a often used material in insulating wooden buildings. A frame is needed to attach it. Warming is carried out as follows:

Fix the vapor barrier film.
Install a control strip at the bottom of the wall.
Along the width (slightly smaller) of the insulation, fill horizontal or vertical wooden slats, which will be higher than the thickness of the insulation.
Cotton wool is placed in the resulting niches.
A windproof membrane layer is created on top.

The denser the cotton wool is laid, the fewer cold bridges there will be.

Another option for fixing the insulation is gluing the material without the use of adhesives - these are self-adhesives. Let's say penofol. A rolled material with a sticky inner side for gluing to a surface. To do this, the surface must be treated.

What does the result depend on?

In order for the house to be quiet and warm, insulation must be carried out not only outside, but also inside. Many types of insulation have the characteristics of a soundproofing material.

If it is not possible to carry out insulation from the outside, then the optimal material is chosen for the internal cladding - mineral wool, foil insulation. For external walls - penoplex, foamed polyurethane foam (polyurethane foam).

Useful tips from the experts:

Before applying foam adhesive to a slab of penoplex or polystyrene foam, the surface must be moistened with water. This will create good adhesion between the glue and the board.
If there is a blockage at the bottom of the wall, then the control strip does not need to be attached. In this place, carry out waterproofing and begin installing insulation.
If the slabs of material are fastened in a checkerboard pattern, then the seams will not match, and therefore there will be no cold bridges.
Thermal insulation material must not be left outdoors after installation. It is necessary to cover it with putty or cover it with a windbreak.

The insulation process must be approached responsibly. To select the correct material, you need to study its characteristics, features and weak points. And also choose the right method of fastening to the surface. The result of the work done depends on this. Some thermal insulation materials are fixed only under ventilation siding, while others can be covered with 3 layers of plaster on top.