Roof ridge log and its purpose. Frame with load-bearing gables. Installing rafters with your own hands, their types and features How to install a roof on a rounded log house

If you have chosen a gable roof for your wooden house, then you will need a log or timber as the main material for its manufacture. The entire process of constructing this structure can be divided into several stages and types. In this article we will tell you what types of rafter systems for log houses there are, as well as what roof schemes exist.

Nailless (male) roof

A nailless roof is a structure in which planks are laid on horizontally installed logs. The ends of the logs need to be cut into the transverse logs that form the pediment.

In this case, the load-bearing structure is the end walls, the “males”, the place where the wall of the log house narrows. Logs, which are called slegs, are fastened in it using the notching method, and a roof is laid on them.

Logs from the longitudinal walls are hidden inside the house; about three of them are needed to work. For the upper part, as a rule, a large ridge log is used.

To make the roof structure more durable, you need to install a rafter leg. It is a triangular structure, and is installed in the middle part of the roof.

There is a more economical arrangement of the roof: the end walls are covered with hewn boards, and rafters are used to cover the roof. Males do not do this in such a situation; a sheathing of thin logs is installed over them.

Types of rafter systems

For the construction of a pitched roof, you can use hanging rafters and layered ones.

This design is the easiest to assemble and its manufacture requires little material. Due to the fact that the layered rafters are supported by the emphasis on the outer part of the walls, they exert pressure on the walls of the building. The pressure on the roof causes a bursting effect on the walls, causing them to move apart.

Layered rafter systems are used when roof spans do not exceed 6 meters. If the span is more than 6 m, another support is installed. If the building has a central load-bearing wall, this will be an additional advantage.

Hanging rafter systems

If roof spans are more than seven meters and additional supports are not provided, hanging rafters are used. This design does not put a load on the walls, the expansion effect is not noticeable. The tie, which is installed in the middle part of the rafter legs, strengthens the rafter.

Roof structure on males

The main supporting system in this type of roof is the end walls. Shallow recesses are made in the gables, and logs (slegs) are installed in them. Therefore, the male roof, in some way, is a continuation of the wall, the logs of which become increasingly shorter towards the top.

The structure of such a roof can be assembled on the ground. You need to start the process with a base removed from the walls onto temporary linings. They cut down the log house not to its full height, but in parts, re-arranging the crowns. The advantage of this technique is that the structure can be adjusted on the ground.

The end wall is formed from male logs, which are fastened together with dowels. This makes it possible to preserve the stability of the pediment. And using dowels, you can achieve additional thermal insulation. Since this design does not have horizontal expansion, it is not entirely reliable.

In order to increase strength, you can connect the poles with male logs:

using the “paw-to-foot” cutting method in a place where the logs around the corner are not marked;
“in the paw with a cut”;
using the cutting method “at the root”.

If the work is done incorrectly and poorly, the house will be leaky. Therefore, if you do not have the relevant experience or knowledge, trust a specialist.

At what angle should the roof slopes be?

This issue can be solved with the help of a plumb line nailed to the board and a cord that is attached in the middle of the board.

Raise the board so that the plumb line points to the center of the pediment. If you plan to build a roof with different slopes, then the board needs to be moved to the corner, and the ends of the cord stretched towards the corners.

The board needs to be attached to the wall, the cords should be fixed in the corners. After this, you can already visualize the angles of the slopes. A similar procedure must be carried out with the second part of the pediment. Use a water level and focus on the horizon mounted on the boards.

Once the edge of the slopes has been marked, continue installing the gable logs.

Cutting a ridge log can be done in two ways: in the first, we cover the pediment with a log, and in the second, we cover the ridge with a male log.

If you choose the first option, then the gaps that form at the top of the gable can be closed with short male logs.

For the second option, experts advise using sheathing made of thick and massive logs. This way you can level and raise the roof a little. The most relevant use of sheathing for roofs made of planks.

When erecting a roof, do not forget that its projection beyond the gables should not exceed 50 cm. In a situation where the projection is greater than this distance, you can strengthen the structure using logs with a large cross-section.

Also, for strengthening, you can cut in 2 or 3 ridge ledges and create a step-shaped protrusion in this way. In this case, the presence of lower logs is not necessary; they can be replaced with short logs.

The sheathing should lie flat. Since logs that have been cut cannot be hewn, when cutting, do not forget to measure their end using a level. In order to check the flatness of the laying, you can run a flat board along the roof. If you find depressions or unevenness, replace them with sawings; eliminate hunchbacks.

Roof structure with hanging rafters

The roof with hanging rafters is a triangular frame, the beams of which run through the entire structure.

The pressure that acts on the system is distributed over the entire area of the frame: vertical pressure on the rafters has a bursting effect, and the legs, which are embedded in the beams, transfer the pressure to the beam, this reduces the stress of the entire structure.

The design of a roof with hanging rafters has a drawback - the beams bend. Since in such a situation there is no support point for the bottom of the leg, experts suggest using a rafter system with a “headstock”. In this system, it is possible to use material with a smaller cross-section.

Methods for joining wooden parts

Various techniques are used to connect and join building materials. Depending on the type of structure, bolts, dowels, dowels, nails, glue, and staples are used.

Not only the reliability of the units, but also the stability of the entire structure depends on the dimensions of the plane at the junction of the elements.

As the contact area between parts increases, the friction force increases. To complicate the nodal connection, instead of straight cuts on the beams, make dovetail or claw locks. In such cuts, a force arises that prevents the separation of wood elements.

The connection of large units can be done independently, using an ax or saw. And it is better to entrust the connection of small, complex joints to professional carpenters.

Installation of rafters on a log house

Log roof rafter system: nailless (male) roof, layered rafters, hanging rafter systems.

Gable roof for a log house: analysis of construction options + technological details

Constructing a roof over a log building is not an easy job, requiring the craftsman to have the skills of a skilled carpenter and knowledge of materials science. The performer will need to first practice making connections. He must take into account the traditional shrinkage of walls made of wood. In order for a gable roof on a log house to be built flawlessly, you need information about the methods of its construction, including ancient roofing technologies. The information we offer will be useful to both independent craftsmen and customers of construction crews for meaningful control.

"Tricks" of wooden housing construction

The popularity of log baths, dachas, and residential buildings is justified by the amazing atmosphere that returns to folk origins. Buildings made from natural wood are distinguished by excellent thermal technology and an attractive price. A significant advantage is the ability to spontaneously allow excess evaporation to pass through. One cannot help but pay tribute to the solid environmental advantages.

However, the popular natural building material has an impressive list of disadvantages. In addition to flammability and sensitivity to waterlogging, carpenters-builders and future owners must be concerned about:

Dimensional instability of wooden structures. Linear movements occurring due to fluctuations in humidity and temperature will accompany the structure until completion of operation. In the first years, the elements of the wooden system move more actively; over time, the “agility” decreases, but does not disappear.
Mandatory shrinkage, taking into account which it is not customary to equip log houses for at least a year, is better than two to three years after the assembly of the crowns. After installation, wood sags on average by 10-20%, which must be taken into account when designing a house. Walls made of laminated veneer lumber will sag the least, but its use will not completely eliminate the change in the height of the box.
The difference is in the vector direction of shrinkage. An intensive change in size occurs across the log, i.e. perpendicular to the fibers. Along the fibers, the size of the scaffolding changes insignificantly: shrinkage along the length of the trunk should not even be taken into account.

Without taking into account the above circumstances, the wooden roof will definitely “move away”. Gaps will appear between the foot of the house and the roofing system, allowing raindrops and melt water to pass through. The wood will then begin to rot, resulting in the complete destruction of not only the upper enclosing structure, but also the house as a whole.

Taking into account the specifics of the material is not enough for the competent construction of a wood roof. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with all possible construction methods in order to choose an option that is rational in terms of cost and effort. You need to understand what forces will act on walls made of logs or timber, and what method can be used to extinguish their effect.

Types of angled roofs for log houses

Roofs with two slopes are ideally combined with chopped feet. Two steep slopes create the impression of a fairy-tale hut. The most suitable tilt angle is 45º-60º, but variations in both directions have every right to exist.

A rival in the field of arranging log houses for a gable structure can be a sloping roof, which has a similar or pentagonal cross-sectional configuration. Gable roofs over log houses can be insulated or cold, attic or non-attic. All types of roofing materials, including shingles and reeds, can be used as a finishing coating.

In wooden construction, ancient technologies for constructing roofs at an angle have been preserved, and new methods have emerged that allow wood to move freely without the threat of destruction of the building. According to the method of installation, gable roofs of wooden buildings are divided into two fundamental categories:

The roofs on the males are on chopped and joined log gables. They complete the walls of the box at the ends, representing their natural continuation. The load-bearing parts of the roof structure, according to the “male” method, rest directly on the gables. A sheathing is laid on top for installation of the finishing coating.
Roofs with rafter system. They are constructed in accordance with the regulations dictated by standard technology for the construction of pitched roofs. Rafter roofs can be suspended or layered, resting on floor beams or on walls through the upper crown. The gables are simply covered with boards, thanks to which the construction budget is reduced along with the effect of a chopped house.

In fact, roof manufacturers rarely follow just one technology. The rafter structure can be combined with the male system. A hanging truss can be installed in the middle of a male roof so that it does not sag under its own weight, coupled with the roof and snow.

There are schemes that are generally difficult to classify into a specific category, because their decisive design features can be classified in different ways.

For example, the ceiling beam of a log house, matrix or transfer, can play the role of a basis for installing layered rafters or serve as a tie that combines elements into a hanging triangle. The tightening of the truss can be moved higher, as was suggested in another article describing the construction of a roof over a semi-attic. There are a lot of options, but to understand the principle of their design, you need to familiarize yourself with the classic schemes.

Rules for making a roof on males

It would be a sin for roof builders using the male scheme not to take advantage of the invaluable advantage of chopped boxes. They can be disassembled and reassembled many times like a children's construction set. Therefore, the upper crowns are simply removed from their proper places and installed on a suitable flat area.

It is much more pleasant to work on solid ground without risk; there is no need to move along shaky scaffolding and walkways. Under the crown, linings made of aspen chocks are installed. They imitate the previous rows of logs, thanks to which there is no slightest difficulty with leveling to the horizon and fitting nodes.

If we conditionally divide a log house into three horizontal parts, then the lower 2/3 will be on the walls, and the upper third will be on the frame of the gable roof. Essentially, this is a wedge-shaped top of a log house. They build it almost the same way, but gradually reduce the width of the end walls so that the edges of the gables resemble stairs with steps. Instead of long logs falling on the walls of the box, the logs are laid in a notch. They are not installed in every row, but after two or three.

Males, after being erected to full height, are filed down to form a clear triangular shape. Then the sheathing is mounted on the base, with roofing material on top.

The tops of the males are connected by a ridge strip, which can be laid in two different ways:

With the installation lay down at the top of the male. In such cases, the log completing the pediment is cut into two edges. The stepped projections of the male are sawed off or hewn into a triangle. There are uncovered areas at the top that will need to be filled with shorties.
Overlapping with logs of the male. According to this technology, the specified ridge beam is covered with male logs, shortened towards the top. The slopes are located below the line of future slopes. The sheathing then has to be constructed from logs of impressive thickness in order to align the plane of the slopes with the boundaries of the gables. Instead of laths, you can install rafters, the thickness of which compensates for the lack of height in the plane formed by the beams.

To make slugs, take the smoothest logs Ø 18-20cm. They are fastened with simple notches “in the paw” or complicated analogues “with a notch” or “spike”. Because the edge of the pediment is trimmed or sawed off, notches with horizontal parts of fastening units of the “in-a-pan” type are not suitable. After all, part of the load-bearing element of the connection will be removed during processing.

The length should form the gable overhang of the roof. Usually it is 0.5 m. If it is decided to increase the width of the overhang, the legs are laid in pairs or three in each “step” of the male to increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure. Upon completion of the construction of the roof frame, its geometry is checked by installing the board on an imaginary slope.

The bulges revealed by the board are trimmed off, the recesses are filled with wooden overlays. However, experienced carpenters advise not to sew on “patches”, but rather to trim more.

The old craftsmen did not use fasteners at all when making roofs on males. Structures of this kind are called nailless roofs. There were no gradually rusting rods in the body of the wood, so the structures lasted for hundreds of years.

Combination with rafters

It happens that the construction of a traditional male roof is not possible. For example, as a result of diligent cutting of excess from the legs and males, the cut-in joints can be significantly damaged. In such situations, the classic version is simply supplemented with layered rafters on top. The need to trim the humps then automatically disappears. The final alignment is done along the upper edges of the rafter legs.

The production of rafters is carried out according to a template with marks of notches and leg lengths. They are simply chopped with bowls. Accuracy in cutting the connections between the rafters and the beams is not necessary; on the contrary, the bowls should be 3-5 cm larger than the outline of the beam. The frame of the house will inevitably settle, losing height. The rafters will remain almost the same size except for a few mm. The settling box will drag the bottom of the rafters with it, causing the angle of connection between the bottom of the rafter and the top crown to decrease. Those. The rafters resting against the upper logs or floor beams will gradually move apart.

A relatively slight displacement of the rafters that is safe for the roof will be ensured by a wide notch. There should be a gap between the tops of the rafter legs resting on the ridge beam. Moving apart at the bottom, the rafters at the top will come closer together during a period of intense shrinkage. After shrinking, the tops are connected with a wooden overlay and/or a tie installed just below. Without waiting for shrinkage, you can connect them with a hinge unit, which allows the wooden parts of the system to move without creating gaps between the frame and the roof.

The lower heels of the rafters in the described scheme rest against the upper crown, which works like a Mauerlat, or against the edges of the mats - ceiling beams. The joints are made with tongue-and-groove notches, and the eaves overhang is extended with fillets. To prevent the gable log roof from being blown off the log house, the rafters are tied through one to the pins hammered into the second crown from the top with wire twists. In areas with high wind loads, you need to tie each rafter leg. After active shrinkage of the wooden structure, loose twists should be tightened.

Two slopes with layered rafters

The scheme is similar to the previous type, only the slugs are not needed at all. Rafter legs get their name from the fact that at the top and bottom they rest on independent supports. The lower heels rest on the upper crown, which serves as a mauerlat, or on the ceiling beams. There are several options for supporting the top of the gable roof rafter system elements over the log house:

A ridge or prince's bridle, laid between males. The tops of the rafters laid lightly are not fastened or connected with a hinge for the reasons stated above.
Internal main wall. There should also be a gap between the top of the rafters, because their edges rest on walls of different heights, therefore, with different shrinkage. There is no particular point in installing males for such a roof; the gables are simply sheathed with boards.
Support structure installed on mats under the ridge beam. Males in this case again do not form. To compensate for shrinkage, the support pillars are installed on screw adjustment devices, which make it possible, following a decrease in the height of the log house, to reduce the length of the support posts. Previously, instead of compensating devices, wooden pads were used, which were removed after shrinkage.

The eaves overhang of a slanted roof over a log house is most often provided by sewn fillies. Although it can be formed by extending the rafter legs, if they are fastened not with notches, but with sliding connecting devices. Sliding fasteners allow you to build roofs over chopped piles without waiting for shrinkage.

Hanging roof structure diagram

Hanging rafter legs got their name because they seem to hang over the box being built. They only have walls as lower supports, and the same part of the rafter located opposite serves as the upper support. The lower heels are connected by a tie, thanks to which the hanging rafters turn into an equilateral triangle, also called a rafter arch or truss. The tightening “takes on the chest” the thrust transmitted in a layered pattern to the walls.

Compensating for the effect of thrust by tightening is a significant plus of the hanging system. It was happily borrowed by builders of layered roofs, trying to minimize the forces that push the walls of the house when the load on the slopes increases. The role of tightening can be successfully played by a ceiling beam. And then it really will not become clear whether the rafter frame of a gable roof will need to be classified as a layered or hanging category.

The invaluable advantage of hanging systems is that for production With The roof sides of the log house do not have to go up. All rafter triangles fit together perfectly according to the template and are adjusted in safe conditions.

The first place on the list of disadvantages is taken by restrictions on overlapped spans. Systems without a central support do not cover large-span buildings. When arranging a house up to 5 m wide, a simple rafter arch is used without additional parts that increase the rigidity of the structure. Tightenings for larger spans may bend from their own weight. To eliminate sagging, a headstock is installed in the center of the rafter triangle.

To understand the essence of constructing a hanging rafter system, let’s consider the technology of installing arches over a small log house. The lower heels of the rafters will rest on the ceiling beams; the connection of the upper edges will be reinforced with a wooden overlay and tie. We will entrust the formation of the eaves overhang to fillets, and we will entrust the responsibility of ensuring the rigidity of the structure to small supports. Males will not breed. The pediments created by the slopes will be covered with a board after installation work.

To mark the lines of the slopes, we find the centers of both ends and mark them on the upper crown. Focusing on the mark, we will vertically install a board, any longitudinal edge of which will repeat the imaginary central axis. We equip both ends with boards and mark the height of the roof on them using a water or laser level. You need to stretch a construction cord between the boards to mark the ridge line of the roof.

The procedure for installing a hanging roof:

We align the beam bypasses that extend beyond the foot. We hammer a nail into the outer beams according to the design dimensions, pull the cord, mark the excess, and saw off with a chainsaw.
On the ceiling beams we mark the location of the nests required for installing the rafter legs. Similarly, we hammer in the nails, tighten the lace and draw the groove lines for the future tooth on the rafter leg.
We make a template for the roof truss. We apply a board of suitable size with its lower edge to the first matrix, the upper edge must be held so that the edge of the board lies under the lace indicating the ridge line. Where the board and cord touch, place a mark and draw a line down from it using a plumb line. We draw a line for the bottom cut along the matrix and mark on the rafter the location of the tooth where the socket is marked on the beam.
We make rafters using the template and assemble them on a level area.
We transfer the rafter triangles to the roof and install them in place. We check the verticality with a plumb line and secure it with temporary jibs.
On the mats inside the log house, using a ruler, two nails and laces, mark the grooves for supports under the rafter legs. It seems to me that it is more convenient to do this procedure together with marking the nests.
We make supports by forming a spike at their base. We note the height of the support after the fact, trying it on the rafter leg.
We install drains, the top of which is secured with two wooden plates.
We select the grooves in the outer matrices for installing the fillies.
We sew on the outer fillets, hammer nails into them, and stretch a cord between them.
We install intermediate fillets along the cord, after installing which we decorate the overhangs with a wind board.

From the inside, the rafter triangles should be connected with diagonal wind ties. From the outside, the rigidity of the structure will be supported by lathing, the type of which is selected according to the type of finishing coating.

Those wishing to install a warm roof will need to install thermal insulation between the rafters. Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters before installing the sheathing, regardless of whether the structure will be insulated.

The examples and diagrams of gable roofs over log boxes we have given will help you decide on the best construction option. Any of the basic versions can be modified and adapted to individual technical conditions. Information about the specifics of the device is useful both for those who are going to equip their property with their own hands, and for those who need to control the work.

In general, a gable roof on a log house is a widely used solution. This is a relatively simple installation and no problems with snow during the cold season. In addition, almost all materials are suitable: metal tiles and slate. The main thing is to accurately calculate and design everything. The most important thing: correct calculation of the roof slope. From 20 to 60 degrees depending on weather conditions in the region.

Logging a gable roof: how to make a gable roof for a log house

In what ways can a gable roof be constructed on a log house? It is advisable to prefer new or old technology for constructing the roof of a log house.

Methods of attaching rafters to a log house

After erecting the walls and waiting six months for the shrinkage to complete, you can move on to the next stage of construction - installing the roofing system. For wooden houses and bathhouses, a standard gable roof with a significant slope is most often chosen, on which snow will not accumulate. The rafters for a log house must be strong and correctly installed; the security of the walls and ceilings and the durability of the entire structure depend on the reliability of the roof. How to install rafters on a log house?

Installation options for the rafter system

Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to install the ceiling beams. It is necessary to make a technological hole in the upper crown of the log house, which is called a notch - a beam will be installed into it. In this case, the hole should not be through so that the end of the ceiling beam does not suffer from atmospheric phenomena.

The distance between the beams depends on what material is supposed to be used for the ceiling, and on the options for using the attic or attic space. The minimum recommended step is half a meter.

Installation of rafters on a log house can be carried out in two main ways:

Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse

The procedure for constructing any building in general is quite simple. First, the foundation is laid, the walls are erected, the roof is installed, and then the interior work is carried out. The topic of this article is installing rafters on a log house with your own hands.

Installing ceiling beams

If you have a building made of logs or timber, then the top 2 crowns when constructing walls do not need to be secured before installing the ceiling beams. Special holes will be made in them, called “notches” for laying beams. The dimensions of the notches are determined by the dimensions of the ceiling beams, which, in turn, are pre-calculated for the expected loads. An option is possible in which no cutting is made into the upper crown, but in this case, if it is necessary to replace the ceiling beam, problems will arise, since you will have to remove the upper crown or saw off the damaged beam.

The notch for the ceiling beam must be “blind”, i.e. non-through. This will help protect the end of the beam from exposure to weather conditions.

The required step for installing ceiling beams is calculated based on the expected loads and the material you use for this, the minimum step is 50 cm.

After installing the ceiling beams, you can think about how to install rafters on the house or bathhouse.

There are few ways to assemble rafters, or rather, only 2:

Assemble roof trusses on the ground and lift them onto the house in finished form.
Assemble directly on the roof and lift elements of roof trusses there.

The first method is good for relatively light structures that can be lifted by several people. The second is used for massive rafters that are difficult to lift manually onto the house. If you have the ability to lift the rafters with a crane, you can also assemble heavy trusses on the ground.

Assembling roof trusses on the ground

In previous articles we talked about the ways in which various elements of roof trusses can be connected. In this article we will look at a specific example of assembling hanging rafters with a crossbar for a 5x4 bathhouse with a gable roof. After assembly, we will install the rafters on the ground - it’s more convenient.

The rafter legs are made of edged boards “fifty” with a width of 10 cm. The crossbar and tie are made of the same material. The length of the rafter legs is 280 cm. The tightening length is 440 cm. We install the crossbar at a height of 50 cm from the ridge. The slope angles are 40°. Assembly instructions are determined by the design of the hanging rafters. The upper ends of the rafter legs rest against each other in the ridge; to do this, we saw off their ends so that the lower ends create an angle of 40° with a tightening (see photo). We also saw off the lower ends at the desired angle. You can fasten it using bolts, plates, nails, etc., having previously calculated the required quantity for each unit.

The crossbar gives additional rigidity to the rafters. To install it, we make a notch in the rafter leg to the width of the crossbar. At the ends of the crossbar we make a tooth with a length equal to the width of the rafter, and a thickness equal to the depth of the notch - on the rafter leg. We fasten with screws, nails or other fastening materials.

Do-it-yourself installation of rafters begins with the outer trusses, so it is better to sheathe them directly on the ground. To do this, after 40 cm we fill the rafters with bars for fastening the sheathing; the material for the bars can be taken in sizes 40x40 or 50x50. The sheathing boards should protrude beyond the tie by a width of 2.5 cm or more, so that water from the gable does not flow onto the sheathing of the bathhouse frame. When the cornice is sheathed, this outlet will be hidden by its sheathing.

You can sheathe the pediment not vertically, but horizontally. Then the sheathing is stuffed vertically, connecting the tie and rafter legs. Here, too, you need to provide 2.5 cm for the outlet on the tightening side, for the same purposes as in the vertical cladding option.

Installing assembled trusses

After all the trusses are assembled, they need to be lifted sequentially to the roof.

The rafter installation technology is as follows:

We raise and secure the outer trusses. To do this, we drill 2-3 holes in the tightening for attaching the rafters to the beams of the upper crown of the log house. We place a plumb line on the crossbar in the center to control the verticality of the truss.
If this is required by calculation, we install additional jibs. Jib booms can also be used to temporarily secure trusses until the entire system is fully installed. Once all the trusses have been lifted and installed, the jib can be removed.
We install the central truss, also checking its verticality and securing it with additional elements if necessary.
We install the remaining trusses in the same way as the central one.
We connect the trusses together using lathing. It can be made from timber, edged or unedged boards, plywood, OSB boards. The choice of material for the sheathing is determined by the choice of roofing material with which you are going to cover the roof.

In order to assemble the rafters on the roof in the same way, 4 people are needed. The rafter legs are connected in a horizontal position, and then lifted and installed in place using ropes. In this option, difficulties may arise when installing intermediate trusses, since those already installed will interfere with their lifting.

As you can see, in the above example, the installation of trusses was carried out in the absence of a ridge girder. If a ridge girder is required for the roof, then it is no longer possible to assemble the rafters on the ground. In this case, they will have to be lifted onto the roof disassembled and assembled at the installation site.

Assembling rafters on the roof

If the design of your house provides for layered rafters, and not hanging ones, as in the previous example, then in order to install them, you need additional support. How to install the rafters correctly in this case? First you need to install the ridge girder.

If the gables of your house are made of brick or blocks, then the purlin can be supported on them, while the ends of the purlin should protrude beyond the gables so that you can create a cornice overhang. Purlins are usually made of logs or timber. The standard length of such material is 6 m. Manually lifting such a log onto the roof of a house is quite problematic; most likely, a crane will be required. The gables must withstand the pressure of the purlin, so they are made using reinforced masonry. By the way, it is possible to install the roof without rafters, only using ridge and side purlins. In this case, the sheathing is packed onto the purlins. This method is applicable for a roof with a cold attic space; if you plan to use the attic for housing, then keep in mind that in the attic the insulation must be able to be ventilated, so you will still have to use layered rafters.

For this type of rafters, the location of all elements in the same plane does not matter and the rafters can be laid on the ridge girder one by one.

Depending on the material and design loads, the rafters may have additional elements in the form of braces, struts, and racks. We described their fastening scheme in previous articles. If, according to the design of your house, the gables are not designed for the installation of a ridge girder, it is mounted on several racks, which are installed on a bench. In this case, the beam is first installed, the racks are installed on it, then the ridge girder and only then the layered rafters.

Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse: technology

Installation of rafters is possible in 2 ways. The first is when the roof truss is assembled on the ground and raised to the roof in finished form. The second is when the rafters are installed directly on the roof.

A wooden frame made of timber or logs is a traditional building for Russia, which is used for both housing and utility premises. The process of assembling such a building takes place according to long-known and constantly improving technologies, so the house turns out to be cozy, warm and comfortable to live in. The design of the rafter frame deserves special attention, because many qualities of the roof and the functioning features of a gable roof depend on its strength and reliability. It is important to know how to install rafters on a log house so that they can withstand all the necessary loads and serve correctly for many years.

A rafter system is usually called a roof frame, a unique set of supporting elements that give it shape, slope and sufficient load-bearing capacity. Such a roof foundation is made of dry and durable wood, treated with antiseptic preparations, or a metal profile. This frame evenly distributes all the loads falling on it between the load-bearing walls. The following types of rafters are used in log houses:

Hanging. Such rafters have only one support point - the mauerlat; they rest against each other with the free end of the rafter leg, forming a kind of triangular arch. This design for a gable roof is used when the log house inside does not have load-bearing walls on which it would be possible to install racks. This rafter system experiences sufficient expansion load, which is why it includes various kinds of tightenings designed to compensate for such tension. Hanging rafters are distinguished by their massiveness and some complexity of installation.
Layered. This type of rafters has two points of support - the same Mauerlat and the ridge girder that supports the vertical posts. This design is used provided that inside the log house there is at least one load-bearing wall or a number of columns onto which the ridge can be unloaded. Layered rafters experience load only in deflection, so they are easier to install.

The log house is made from a well-known natural building material – wood, which has unique properties. Upon completion of the assembly of the structure, the moisture content of the wood begins to equalize, so the rafter system usually shrinks over about 4 years of operation.

Important! The most significant changes in the size of the object occur in the first year, so it is recommended to secure the rafters only after this time.

Mounting methods

Attaching rafters to a wooden frame is a technologically quite complex process, the correct execution of which directly determines the strength, durability and integrity of the roof. When working, it should be taken into account that wood tends to settle during the drying process, so the geometry of the entire building changes. In addition, this material is subject to thermal expansion, so there is no need to attach the rafters to the frame too tightly to avoid deformation. Rafter legs can be attached to the frame using two types of fastenings:

Movable. Such rafter fastenings are called special metal fasteners that allow the structure to be given a certain degree of freedom in movement and change in size. With their help, the rafter legs do not receive a deflection load, and can also react to the slightest temperature fluctuations, adapting to the geometry of the log house. These products allow you to fasten the rafter frame until the building shrinks without the risk of deformation.
Stationary. Fixed type fasteners do not leave a margin of mobility when installing rafters, however, they largely guarantee the strength and rigidity of the structure. Such fastening elements include nails, wooden dowels, self-tapping screws, metal staples, overlays, and so on.

Important! A log house made of wood has one extremely unique ability - it can, as people say, “breathe.” This means that the log house itself can regulate the humidity in the room, which is why its dimensions are not clearly fixed.

Movable fasteners that can adapt to the shrinkage of walls and changes in the size of the material as a result of a reaction to thermal influence are the best option for fastening rafters to the frame.

Assembly methods

After the shrinkage of the wooden frame has finally passed, they begin to establish the rafter system and erect the roof. This process is complex and painstaking, especially if you work alone. There are 2 ways to correctly install the frame on the Mauerlat:

Installation of ready-made roof trusses. This process consists of assembling the necessary trusses simply “on the ground” with their further lifting to the desired installation location in assembled form. To lift such massive and heavy structures, you need special equipment such as a crane, aerial platform, tractor, etc. This is how layered rafters are usually installed, weighing less than other structures.
The assembly of trusses is “top notch”. Given the large weight and size of the rafter system structure, along with the lack of special equipment, the trusses are assembled directly on site. The disadvantage of this technology is the complexity and inconvenience of such work.

It is worth considering that experienced craftsmen rarely use the method of installing ready-made trusses, because these designs do not allow achieving high precision in fitting the elements, although they significantly save time.

The rafter system on a log house may be a fairly common option in Russia, but the issue of installing rafters must always be approached with full responsibility, because the reliability of the gable roof and the entire building as a whole depends on it.

When cutting a log house, a technological sequence must be followed, which is an important process for the quality construction of a log house. Particular attention should be paid to the strong fastening of the rafters to the frame, on which the reliability and service life of the roof will depend.

The main tools for work are:

roulette;
saw;
square;
pencil;
hammer;
screwdriver;
level.

Marking the placement of rafters during their installation

Marking the fastening of boards to the frame must begin from the gables, with the elements being laid tightly to the gables. But first, a supporting element - a tooth - must be cut out in the board. In the upper crown of the log house, repeating the size of the tooth, a groove is cut out. It should also be noted that it is impossible to produce without a tooth and groove. When positioned from above, the ends of the elements must be laid 5 cm lower, taking into account the height of the pediment.

When the design of a log house roof includes a ridge element made of timber or logs, marking the installation, the rafters need to be nailed to them. When all elements (braces, sheathing) are installed, the temporary fastening in the form of nails is removed.

This is required so that all elements do not freeze during the process.

Typically, rafters are installed in increments of 60 cm or more.

The step distance will depend on the building project and its location. The rafters are installed on both sides of the pediment, resulting in a tent shape. In places where the rafters come into contact with the gables, there should be a gap of at least 5 cm, which is subsequently filled with insulating material.

Installation of hanging rafters: features

In this case, only the walls serve as support, which can lead to a horizontal thrust load throughout the entire structure (log house). To alleviate these loads, before installing and connecting the rafters to the wall base (log house), it is important to use a tie, which is made from a bar or board, thanks to which the counter elements are connected while being rigid in the upper part. The result is a non-thrust triangular frame, which is installed on the crowns of the log house.

There is a similar method when floor beams are used. Such elements are installed with the rafters in the same plane and perpendicular to the wall base. A similar method is used when installing attic buildings.

It is recommended to use the connection of the structure with beams, regardless of the weight of the roof, if the walls of the log house are sufficiently strong and stable. This is due to the fact that the pressure on the walls of the log structure itself will be point-like, and not uniform, as when using a Mauerlat.

With this method, beams for the floor structure must be selected with dimensions of 50x150 mm. When arranging a roof overhang, wooden blocks are taken of a size that allows for a protrusion of at least 55 cm. The rafter elements with this method should protrude beyond the base of the wall and be attached to the edge of the block.

Mauerlat attachment technology

The Mauerlat is one of the outermost elements of a log house roof. It bears pressure from the large weight of the entire roof, which should be equally distributed among the load-bearing elements. It is made with rafter elements, which provide this pressure. Mauerlat can be made from solid logs laid around the perimeter, or in meter-long pieces that are placed directly under the rafter elements.

For the manufacture of Mauerlat, only logs, beams and boards with minimum dimensions of 100x100 mm, 100x150 mm and 150x150 mm are used. If logs are used, then one of the sides is cut for maximum contact with the top crown of the log house. The Mauerlat can be secured using several methods.

When the log house is made of logs or timber, the mauerlat is mounted along the top row and installed on the logs. You can pin:

using wooden or steel dowels;
steel staples;
metal corner;
using galvanized wire with a minimum diameter of 4 mm.

How the rafters are attached to the Mauerlat

Fastening the rafters is a crucial moment in the roof installation process. The condition of the roof under the influence of gusts of wind, snow cover, and sudden temperature changes will depend on the method of fastening the rafter elements with the Mauerlat. All wooden elements are capable of absorbing moisture and at the same time expanding, and under the influence of rising temperatures, contracting. Given the characteristics of wooden structures, it is not recommended to arrange all connections with rigid fastening, as this leads to breaks and displacements. The occurrence of expansion forces affecting the walls of the log house due to careless installation of structures can also pose a danger. To prevent this from happening, you need to have an idea of how to install rafters on a log house.

Rafters with a Mauerlat can be secured using the following methods:

hard;
sliding.

The type of interface is used taking into account the shape of the roof and the type of rafters - layered or hanging.

Using a rigid mount

When installing rafters on beams using the rigid fastening method, it is important to adhere to certain requirements and eliminate bending, twisting, turns and shifts between elements.

These requirements can be achieved:

secured with a corner with a hemmed block for support;
making a cut on the rafter element and fastening this connection with nails and staples.

Using a corner with hemmed support bars, the rafters are placed on the mauerlat. The element itself must have a rigid stop along the load line due to a hemmed beam about 1 m long. It is also fixed on the sides with a metal corner to avoid shifting.

The second installation method is most applicable. With this option, fixation with nails is carried out from the side, at an angle, they are crossed inside the Mauerlat, and a third nail must be driven vertically. This results in a rather rigid assembly when fastening.

In both options, the connections are secured by another fastening of the elements to the wall, using wire or anchors.

At the same roof slope angle, the rafters are prepared using a template, that is, the same size.

Application of sliding joint

A sliding connection is created by fastening with the ability to move one element. In this situation, such an element will be the rafters to the mauerlat. You can attach the rafters to the mauerlat with the ability to move using the following methods:

The method of sawing and installing the rafter element and sawing the Mauerlat:

making a connection using 2 nails on the sides diagonally so that they intersect;
making the connection with one nail, which is hammered in the upper part through all the rafters and into the mauerlat;
the nails are replaced with a plate with holes;
using staples, fasten the rafters and the mauerlat;
the rafters protrude beyond the wall and are secured only with plates.

The connection is made using special fasteners - slides.

Each method allows the rafter elements to move relative to each other.

Installation options for the rafter system

The distance between the beams depends on what material is supposed to be used for the ceiling, and on the options for using the attic or attic space. The minimum recommended step is half a meter.

Installation of rafters on a log house can be carried out in two main ways:

The rafters are assembled into trusses on the ground, and the finished structures are then raised to the roof. This option can be used if the roof is light in weight. To lift the trusses onto the roof, you can use special equipment, or you can just do it with the help of several people.
The second option is that the rafters are raised to the roof one at a time and mounted immediately at the top. This is convenient if the rafters themselves are heavy, and lifting the finished structure up will be problematic.

It is important to use the best lumber for rafters. They use timber that should not have knots, cracks or any other defects.

The rafters must be perfectly even and straight; before installation, all elements of the wooden structure must be treated with special anti-rotting compounds. In addition to antiseptics, they need to be treated with fire retardants, this is especially important for the roof of the bathhouse.

Design of a house truss system

The roofing design depends on the area of the building, as well as the expected weight of the roofing material. In addition, it is necessary to take into account wind and snow loads in the region, since it is the roof that will have to protect the house from all elements. The gable rafter system is a right-angled triangle, its upper part is called the ridge of the roof.

The most common version of rafters is made from edged boards, its cross-section is 40/150 mm. There are hanging and layered rafters: in the first case, the beams rest against the walls of the log house and are connected to each other at the ridge; they are fixed by horizontal lintels and supports.

Typically this type of construction is used for houses of great complexity, and it is advisable to first design the truss on paper in order to determine the required number of supports. The calculation must take into account several factors:

Ridge height. If the roof has a large slope, so snow will not linger on it. But this will require more roofing material, so the work will cost more.
It is necessary to calculate the optimal length of the rafters. The overlap under the canopy should be about 30-40 cm, this will allow excess moisture to be removed from the walls.
It is necessary to decide on the type of fastening of the beams in the ridge: they can be connected to each other with a wooden or metal plate, in addition, a notch connection method can be used, in which the fastening element is a bolt.

Additional support structures will help to avoid sagging of the rafters; they must be installed if their length exceeds 4.5 m.

The layered system is also common: in this case, the rafter legs are attached to the ridge girder and exert a minimal bursting load on the walls. This design is more often used for residential buildings, since the ridge girder is installed on the internal load-bearing walls, and it is this that bears the maximum load from the weight of the roof.

Installation technology of layered rafters

How to install rafters on a log house? The rafter system provides for fastening to ceiling beams or a mauerlat, the role of which in the log house is played by the upper crown. It is important to make sure that it is positioned strictly horizontally, since the reliability of the roof installation will depend on this.

Support posts are installed, which must be positioned strictly vertically. A ridge purlin is attached to them, to which the rafters will be mounted.

Attaching the rafters to the frame can be done in several ways, depending on the project:

Since the lower part of the rafters is not rigidly fixed, settlement will not have much effect on the roof structure. However, sometimes an additional spacer system is used, which provides rigid attachment of the upper crown of the frame to the rafters.

The installed rafters are complemented by a wooden perpendicular sheathing made of timber, after which you can proceed to insulation work and laying roofing material. The construction of a rafter system is a complex technological stage, so it is advisable to involve specialists in this work. A particularly important part of the work is design, which allows you to calculate the correct position of the rafters.

The roof of a log house is no less important than the foundation and walls. Modeling and implementing the roof structure of a log house is not an easy task and is beyond the power of home-grown craftsmen, excluding small-sized country houses with a simple lean-to type. Below we describe popular types of rafter systems that make a log object individual. The choice is up to the owner.

There are several types of roofing structures depending on the device, material and purpose:

Straight pitched;
Gable;
Hip;
Half-hip;
Tent;
Forceps and multi-forceps;
Attic;
Combined.

More details about each below.

Straight pitched roof

Frankly speaking, this option is devoid of wisdom. And the appearance leaves much to be desired. It is used mainly in outbuildings and garages. Relies on walls of different heights. Even an amateur can build such an option. Cheap and cheerful.

The most practical option for a log structure. Not too heavy and simple design.

Depending on the size of the object, such roofs of log houses are built using reinforcement along the rafters, mauerlat, ridge girders and gables, assembled on the ground and raised up in finished form. Under such a roof you can arrange a full-fledged attic space for storing items or organize an area for other non-residential purposes.

Typically, the rafter system uses sliding supports - the timber is not tightly attached to the corresponding joints, but using a special device that allows a massive house not to deform the roof during shrinkage. Otherwise, such a system is called a sliding roof of a log house. The measure is invaluable when building a facility from scratch.

By imagining the gables of a simple gable roof at an angle towards its center, the owner receives this option. There are dormer windows. The advantages of this type are wide space inside, absolute resistance to bad weather, strong winds and seismic activity of the soil.

The construction of the roof of a log house of this type is complex and should be left to professionals. As for the appearance, such a roof in combination with beautiful roofing material looks great and gives the impression of a fortress, which it really is.

Half hip roof

An even more labor-intensive option. It is interesting for its appearance - the pediments are made in the form of trapezoids and covered with parts of the hips. In this case, the attic space is vast and the side parts of the roof can become the walls of the room.

Perfect alignment of edges at one point. Strongly recommended for buildings that have regular geometric shapes with equal side lengths.

The advantages of other pitched options are resistance to shrinkage and external climate conditions. This is one of the varieties of hip roofing, which means it will require professional knowledge when installing it.

Gable and multi-gable roofing

In a timber or log house, the roof, as conceived by the designer, can become a work of art. This feature was obtained by gable variants used on objects with complex shapes - polygons, bay windows, projections, turrets.

Covering them with one plane is too problematic and sometimes impossible. The design of the rafters is not amenable to the strength of a home craftsman who does not have basic knowledge of the peculiarities of construction.

Mansard roof

The most practical roof and attic design. Otherwise, such options are called a log house with a sloping roof. Practicality lies in saving material - solid logs - for building a house, with the opportunity to obtain additional living space.

Combined roofs

The different styles used in the construction of a log house must be covered with special roofs that combine all of the above types. So that this does not look dissonant, such a rafter system is determined at the design and computer modeling stage.

In principle, it will not be possible to make such a roof on your own due to damage and excessive consumption of material. People who choose this type of roof anticipate spending or increasing their budget in advance.

How to make a roof on a log house yourself

If for some reason the owners cannot use the services of professionals, and have chosen a simple version of the system, then it is still worth trying to do the work yourself - you cannot leave a log house without a roof for a long time. So, a simple gable system:

For rafters, timber with a cross section of at least 150 mm is used. Accompanying elements can have more modest parameters, but load-bearing ones - never.
The upper crown is removed and a mauerlat is installed in its place - a lower strapping beam.
The finished rafter legs, cut at an angle for connection, are attached to sliding supports and to each other, if a ridge run is not used. They should extend beyond the crowns by 20–25 cm.
The pediments are assembled on the ground and raised into place in the form of shields.
The sheathing for the insulation insert is filled, thermal and waterproofing is installed.
Roofing line. It is offered to private homeowners in numerous versions - soft, ceramic, metal. It all depends on the goal, choice and purchasing power of the client.