Strawberries - plant structure. Wild strawberry. Useful properties, photo of the plant Structure of a strawberry bush

Treating your family and friends with sweet strawberries is such a pleasure! Of course, garden strawberries are not simple crops, but there are rules that can make your work easier, and the harvest fragrant berries will more than pay off all your efforts!

How to choose a good place for strawberries

Garden strawberries need full light throughout the growing day. Even a moving shadow (for example, from a tree) significantly reduces the yield and quality of berries.

The landing site should be flat or with a slight (up to 5 °C) slope to the south. It is undesirable to plant strawberries in depressions, where cold air accumulates in the spring and the flowers suffer from frost. The place should be protected from the wind (so that snow does not blow away in winter). The root system of strawberries begins to freeze at temperatures of -10...-12 °C; long, snowless frosts are dangerous for it.

Garden strawberries should not be planted in flooded areas, and the groundwater level should be no closer than 0.8 m to the soil surface. If the groundwater is higher, with intensive care you can cultivate strawberries on raised beds, but then you will have to take more care of them (mainly - frequent watering).

The soil is preferably sandy loam, light or medium loamy, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction (pH 5.5-6.5). Acceptable predecessors of strawberries: beets, lettuce, endive salad. The best predecessors: green manure, peas, beans, beans, onions, garlic, radishes, parsley, dill, carrots, celery, corn.

Bad predecessors: tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, zucchini, potatoes, raspberries, cabbage.

Landing technology

Before planting, the soil is dug up using a spade, peat and humus (5-8 kg/m2) > complete mineral fertilizer that does not contain chlorine (40-50 g/m2) are added. Particular attention should be paid to clearing the soil of the roots and rhizomes of weeds: strawberries are grown in one place without replanting for 3-4 years, perennial weeds will make care very difficult.

Strawberry planting scheme. Seedlings of low-growing varieties are planted at intervals of 15-20 cm, and of vigorous-growing varieties - 25-30 cm.

Strawberry roots function actively in well-warmed soil. Therefore, in the Non-Black Earth Region, where the weather is often cold in spring and early summer, a common method of planting is using dark film or non-woven material. Spread agrotextiles promote heat accumulation in the soil.
Planting on agrotextiles. On the prepared bed, spread a sheet of dark (mulching) film, black non-woven material or special spreading agrotextile.

Mark the position of future rows with twine (1) . Secure the corners of the canvas so that the shelter does not blow off the wind.

According to the planting diagram, use a sharp knife to cut cross-shaped holes slightly larger than the size of an earthen ball of seedlings. (2) .

Fold the corners of the fabric at the cut inward. There should be a square hole measuring about 12x12 or 15x15 cm (3) .

Make holes in the slits of the agrotextile and plant the seedlings (4) .

Please note that the growing point in the center of the bush (“heart”) should be located exactly at soil level. If planted too high, the plant may freeze, and if buried, it will rot.

About a month after planting, be sure to check each plant. While the soil is loose and the seedlings have not had time to take root, they are often drawn into the soil with rain and watering. If the heart is below the soil level, slowly pull it out of the ground by the leaf petioles or pry it with a shovel, lifting it to the desired level. Press the soil around the bushes and water. Before watering, remove soil from the center of the bush with a soft brush.

How to water garden strawberries

Garden strawberries need watering throughout the season. Until September, watering should be regular. In September, in case of dry weather, 1-2 waterings are required during the month. In October, after the end of leaf fall on fruit trees, it is advisable to do abundant moisture-recharging watering of garden strawberries if the autumn has been a little rainy. There are two methods of watering - you can follow either of them depending on the circumstances.

Rarely abundant watering. The most reliable and low-maintenance single-fruiting varieties can be grown with infrequent, abundant watering. This method is justified if you can care for the plantings no more than once a week, and also in areas with low snow cover. This is what most gardeners adhere to. With rare, abundant watering, strawberries form a deeper root system, extract moisture well from the lower layers of the soil, and overwinter more successfully. Watering is carried out in dry weather, once a week, in the morning. Before flowering, plants can be sprinkled; after flowers bloom, only water at the root.

At the beginning of the season, water consumption per watering is 10-12 l/m2; after setting the berries, the rate is doubled. After rains, you need to check whether the soil is well moistened. If it remains dry at a depth of 5 cm, watering is not canceled.

Frequent watering. To obtain high yields of remontant garden strawberries and the most productive, but capricious single-fruiting varieties, frequent uniform watering is used, usually using a drip irrigation system. This method is only suitable if the planting site is chosen well (protected from the wind, warms up well) and you can care for the plants all season as needed.

In this case, the plants will accumulate a lot of nutrients in the horns (with uniform watering, they absorb nutrition more intensively), but their roots will be located close to the soil surface and suffer more in the event of little snow frosts and drought. With frequent watering, the soil in the root zone is constantly kept moderately moist; mulching is necessary.

Peduncle
Perennial rhizome
Lateral roots
Adventitious roots
annual horn
First order socket
Second order socket
Apical bud

How to feed garden strawberries

Before picking berries. You can feed 1-2 times with any complete fertilizer that does not contain chlorine, according to the instructions. After picking berries. For the formation of flower buds and root growth, garden strawberries primarily need phosphorus. Therefore, the most inexpensive, but quite effective type of feeding is superphosphate (40 g/m2).

You can feed the plants with any chlorine-free complex fertilizer according to the instructions. This option is more expensive, but better: ammonia nitrogen enhances the absorption of phosphorus by the roots. If fertilizers contain microelements, the effect of fertilizing will be even greater: magnesium and boron stimulate the formation of flower buds and increase their frost resistance. Flowers from stronger buds retain the ability to pollinate longer and set berries better; they are more resistant to frost.

Check that the packaging indicates the presence of nitrogen in ammonia form (NH4). Typically, complex fertilizers contain nitrogen in both forms - ammonia and nitrate, which reputable manufacturers write about in the “composition” column.

If the exact composition is not deciphered, it is better not to buy such fertilizer.

Choose dry fertilizer, apply it to a depth of 7-10 cm, do not leave it on the surface: with surface scattering and liquid application, ammonia nitrogen evaporates
or is retained in a thin surface layer of soil, where it turns into nitrate form. Nitrate nitrogen does not contribute to the absorption of phosphorus.

Reproduction

Most often, strawberries are propagated vegetatively - by daughter rosettes, in June-July, immediately after fruiting. This method is usually called propagation by mustaches, although the strawberry mustaches themselves (the shoots on which the daughter rosettes are located) are not used for propagation. IN Lately Seed propagation has become popular. Strawberries from seeds can be grown in the garden in the summer or sown in February at home.

Why do you need to update your plantings on time?

Starting from the third year after planting, the strawberry bush disintegrates: the rhizome in its center and the roots located on it die, the ratio of the mass of the roots and the number of fruit buds becomes insufficient for full fruiting. This can be seen from the weaker growth of horns and leaves on the old bush. The horns grow larger, begin to protrude greatly above the soil surface, and are more damaged by frost. Such bushes need to be uprooted and new plantings planted to replace them.

The ideal option is to plant a new bed every year and remove it after five years. Thus, five plots of different ages will appear in your garden:

1 year - newborn;
2 years - strawberries in the first year of fruiting (with a small harvest);
3 years - productive plot;
4 years - second productive plot;
5 years - an aging plot, which after harvesting is uprooted and prepared for vegetables.

Varieties

There are varieties of strawberries: single-fruiting, remontant and day-neutral.

Single fruiting varieties- the most unpretentious. If you do not have the opportunity to care for strawberries more than once a week, it is better to use them as the basis for planting. To extend the harvest by a month, select strawberry varieties of different ripening periods.

Remontant varieties of strawberries- bear fruit in waves. In regions with short summers (Moscow region, the Urals, Siberia), such varieties usually manage to produce two waves of harvest. At the same time, so that the second wave has time to ripen, it is better to grow remontant strawberries with shelter in early spring and late summer. Cover the strawberries in arcs with film or non-woven covering material with a density of 40 g/m2. Remontant varieties require intensive care, frequent watering and fertilizing.

Day neutral varieties They also bear fruit all summer, but not in waves, but constantly. Caring for them is the most labor-intensive. Frequent fertilizing, mulching with agro-fabric or dark film are required, drip watering is desirable.

Buying strawberry seedlings

The seedlings should have three to four healthy green leaves. There is no need to be afraid of stains - they may well form due to the leaf drying out during replanting. The main thing is that the “heart” (the central bud, the leaf that has not yet blossomed) is intact.

6 rules for a good strawberry harvest

Maintain crop rotation. Strawberry bushes age and lose productivity; do not keep them in one place for more than 4-5 years. Change both the plants and the place where they are planted - this will reduce the spread of pests and diseases and help restore soil fertility.
Try new varieties. There are so many people, so many opinions about what an ideal strawberry should be. Don't rely on descriptions alone. Try new varieties yourself. And multiply the most delicious, productive, sustainable ones on your site.
Don't let it go wild. By self-sowing or by accidental purchase, aggressive weed “varieties” that do not bloom, produce barren flowers or small crooked berries with good care may enter the plantings. They oppress neighboring varietal plants. Identify and destroy such specimens.
Propagate correctly. During harvest, evaluate the bushes and mark the best ones: those with a large number of healthy and fairly even-sized berries are the most productive. It is worth taking planting material from them to start a new plot.
Attract pollinators. Garden strawberries are a bee-pollinated plant. Avoid using insecticides during flowering. Try spraying blooming strawberries warm water with the addition of a few drops of coriander or anise oil to attract bees and bumblebees.
Don't forget about care at the end of summer. Garden strawberries are formed from flower buds and nutrients deposited in the previous season. Watering, fertilizing, preventing diseases and pests from July to September are the basis of next year’s harvest.

Perennial herbaceous plant 5-20 cm in height, with numerous thin roots. Stems are solitary or few in number, covered with hairs. The leaves are trifoliate, on long petioles (4-13 cm), the middle leaf is rhombic-oval on a short petiole, the lateral leaves are oblique-ovate, almost sessile.

Generative organs.

The flowers are white, 1.7-2 cm in diameter, usually bisexual. The fruits are red false berries, fragrant. Propagated vegetatively and by seeds.

Spreading.

Distributed in Europe, Western and Eastern Siberia, the Caucasus and Central Asia. It grows in sparse coniferous forests, on the edges, clearings and old burnt areas, less often among bushes.

Part used.

The medicinal raw materials are the fruits and leaves of strawberries. They are collected when they are quite mature, without stalks. Dry in well-ventilated rooms or dryers at a temperature of 45-65 C, pre-dry (in air or in dryers at a temperature of 25-30 C). The leaves are also harvested manually, and the remainder of the petiole should not exceed 1 cm. They are dried in well-ventilated rooms or dryers, the heating temperature of the raw material is 45 C.

Chemical composition.

Strawberry fruits contain up to 15% carbohydrates (glucose, fructose, arabinose, pectins), citric, acetic, malic, formic, quinic, salicylic, folic and ascorbic (up to 80 mg%) acids, vitamins B1, B2, B6, E. P, catechins, anthocyanins, leukoanthocyanidins, tannins, phenolcarboxylic acids, essential oils, traces of alkaloids, salts of iron, phosphorus, calcium, cobalt and manganese. A lot of iron is contained in the seeds.

Essential oils, vitamin C, carotene, alkaloids, aromatic and phenolic compounds, flavonoids and tannins were found in wild strawberry leaves. The roots contain a lot of tannins and iron salts.

Pharmacological properties of wild strawberries.

An infusion of strawberry leaves has a pronounced diuretic effect, which is associated with the presence of organic acids and high potassium content in the plant. The ability of strawberry leaves to slow down the rhythm and increase the amplitude of heart contractions, dilate blood vessels, and also increase the tone and strengthen contractions of the uterus has been experimentally confirmed. The leaves, due to the presence of vitamins, micro- and macroelements in them, can improve metabolism.

Strawberries have both a diuretic and diaphoretic effect on the body. In addition, they have phytoncidal and antimicrobial properties, improve digestion and have an antithyroid effect.

Application.

Strawberry berries and leaves are a good remedy for various disorders in the body. Preparations of this plant are especially effective for blood diseases and metabolic disorders in the body. For diseases (gastritis, peptic ulcer, atonic constipation, digestive disorders), hypertension and atherosclerotic changes in the blood vessels of the heart, fresh strawberries have the best effect. Strawberry fruits and leaves have a good therapeutic effect for gout, arthrosis, arthritis, joint diseases, anemia, and kidney stones.

There is evidence of the positive effect of strawberry preparations on jaundice, dysentery, colitis, bronchial asthma, tuberculosis, enuresis, rheumatism, leukemia, scrofula, chills, uterine bleeding, chlorosis, C-vitaminosis, eczema, skin rashes. Decoction, infusion and fresh juice of strawberry leaves and fruits are also recommended as a tonic, wound healing, anti-inflammatory and astringent. There is experience in their use for the rejection of necrotic masses in disintegrating tumors.

Due to the antimicrobial properties of strawberry juice, it is used as a gargle for various inflammatory diseases of the oropharynx and bad breath.

Application. Relatively often, some patients experience increased sensitivity to strawberries, accompanied by allergic manifestations.

Dosage forms.

20 g of crushed leaves are poured into 200 ml of hot boiled water and left for 2 hours. Take 1 tablespoon 3-4 times a day.
Pour a tablespoon of strawberry leaves into a glass of boiling water, boil for 10 minutes, leave for 2 hours, filter. Take 1 tablespoon 3-4 times a day.
Tea made from strawberry leaves. To prepare the tea leaves, they are dried in the shade, rolled between the palms until the juice appears, poured in a 5 cm layer into a box or on a baking sheet, covered with a wet cloth and fermented at a temperature of 26 C for 6-10 hours, after which they are dried very quickly. Brew and drink like tea, 2-3 glasses a day.

Strawberry is a perennial herbaceous plant. The bush is small in size - 20 cm in height and 40 cm in width.

The strawberry root system consists of rhizomes and small fibrous roots. Two-year and three-year-old plants have the largest number of living overgrowing roots. Moreover, in bushes aged two years and older, the root system consists of two tiers: the lower one consists of roots extending from the rhizome, the upper one consists of adventitious roots extending from the branches of the stem - horns. The lower part of the rhizome gradually becomes woody and aging, and the suction root system located on it dies. After this, the plants mainly feed on adventitious roots. Large roots are covered with a cork layer; reserve plastic substances are deposited in them.

The main mass of roots on podzolized soils lies at a depth of up to 25 cm, and only a few of them penetrate 50 cm. Therefore, in the summer, when the upper layers of the soil dry out, strawberries suffer from a lack of moisture and develop poorly. To prevent this danger, the soil must be kept loose and moist and systematically fertilized. Strawberries especially need moisture and nutrients in early spring and after fruiting, when increased growth of new roots occurs.

Rice. Annual strawberry plant:

1 - horn (short shoot), 2 - lashes (stolons), 3 - rooted rosettes

The strawberry stem is shortened, up to only 12 cm high. Very short lateral branches are formed on it - horns. The development and growth of them and the bush as a whole proceeds from the center to the periphery (the youngest horns are closer to the periphery). The number of horns in a bush increases every year, reaching 40 pieces (for some varieties). Their tops usually end with a fruit bud, which forms a peduncle.

The horns grow very quickly in the spring - in May. In August, their growth slows down and then stops completely. From this time, the formation of flower buds of the future harvest begins. At the base of the newly formed horns, new roots appear, which are located above the rhizome. This explains the apparent bulging of roots from the soil observed in strawberries. In connection with this feature, it is necessary to use a special agrotechnical technique - planting plants after harvesting. If this is not done, then the plant will age more quickly, since the formation of new roots becomes limited, and old ones continue to die.

Strawberry leaves are trifoliate, grow on relatively long petioles, and they live up to 70 days. Strawberries do not fall leaves like other fruit and berry plants; they go into winter with green leaves. In winter, some of them die off. Those leaves that have not finished growing in the fall continue to grow in the spring, their blades increase in size, and the petiole lengthens. But they quickly die off.

Enhanced growth of strawberries begins in early spring and continues until the berries begin to ripen. During this period, leaves and flower stalks grow rapidly, roots branch strongly, becoming overgrown with suction roots. The number of leaves at this time reaches 60 per bush. During the first three to four weeks they increase in size. During the fruiting period, their growth slows down, and in some varieties it stops completely, since nutrients in large quantities are spent on the formation of berries. Towards the end of fruiting, the leaves dry out. After harvesting, new leaves begin to grow. Thus, strawberries have two periods of active leaf growth: at the beginning of spring and immediately after fruiting. In spring, regrowth occurs due to the reserves of plastic substances accumulated in the stems and roots since the fall of last year. After the formation of new leaves and roots, the plant develops due to the nutrients created in the current year.

Leaf formation in spring coincides with the development of fruiting organs. Strong growth of leaves inhibits the growth of peduncles and flowers, reduces the yield and quality of berries, especially in cases where dry weather sets in after flowering. Strong leaf development is facilitated by excessive soil moisture in the spring and the application of large amounts of nitrogen fertilizers. But very often inexperienced gardeners rejoice: “What lush bushes grow!”, and then they become upset and wonder why so few berries have grown.

Strawberries bloom 35 days after the start of the growing season. Flowering lasts 20 days, depending on meteorological conditions. The number of flower stalks in a bush varies: from 3 to 25, or even more, and depends on the variety, age of the bush and agricultural technology. There are from 1 to 30 flowers in a peduncle, depending on the variety and agricultural technology.

Flowers for the most part bisexual, self-pollinating, but there are varieties with unisexual female flowers. These are Komsomolka, Obilnaya, Miracle of Keten, Pozdnyaya from Leopoldsgall, etc. When starting a plantation, pollinator varieties should be planted with these varieties: Mysovka, Roshchinskaya, Saxonka. Plants of these varieties have bisexual flowers and bloom at the same time as strawberries of unisexual varieties.

Peduncles are low, flowers are located at a height of up to 20 cm from the soil surface. Therefore, they sometimes die from frosts in the spring - more often in those areas where the temperature drops more than in the right-bank areas. At 2 degrees of frost - in the area where the flowers are located - the latter die, and at 4 degrees the buds also die.

The berries begin to ripen a month after flowering. Ripening lasts 30 days, depending on the variety, age of the plantation and meteorological conditions. The berries are removed after 1-2 days, as they ripen. In total, up to 12 training camps are held per season.

During the fruiting period, the strawberry plant uses more water than in any other period. After fruiting, strawberries enter a very important phase of development, which precedes the formation of flower buds (for next year's harvest). At this time, the leaves grow vigorously, the stem branches, forming new rosettes, from the base of which roots grow; The mustache grows very quickly. In order for the bushes to grow better, the soil must be loosened and well fertilized.

Strawberry flower buds begin to form approximately 30 days after fruiting, in our conditions - from mid-August.

The number of flower buds depends on the strength of branching of the stem and on the general condition of the bush. The better the bush is developed, the more buds are laid.

Differentiation of fruit buds in strawberries of early varieties is completed by mid-September, and of late varieties by the end of September.

As the age and branching of the stems increases, a disproportion is created between the above-ground and underground parts of the strawberry. More leaves are formed than roots, which weakens the plant. Therefore, the older the bush, the more demanding it is to care for. With good care, the bush normally bears fruit for 5 years, and with poor care - no more than 3 years.

Strawberries reproduce by tendrils. The tendrils are cord-like shoots arising from the lateral buds of the stem. From spring they grow weakly, but after fruiting their growth intensifies. The tendrils have nodes from which young plants with rosettes of leaves and rudiments of roots develop. By touching the soil, new plants take root, especially well in wet weather. Rooted bushes are separated from the mother bush and planted on the plantation.

The formation of mustaches greatly weakens the mother plant, since a lot of nutrients are spent on their formation (the weight of the mustaches with rosettes from one bush averages about 80 g). As a result, fewer flower buds are formed.

The number of runners in a bush varies and depends on the variety, age of the plantation and agricultural technology. Plants of the varieties Mysovka, Roshchinskaya, Krasavitsa Zagorya have a lot of them, while Komsomolka and Chuda Keten have much less. Strawberries of weed varieties - Bakhmutki, Zhmurki and others - form a lot of mustaches - up to 50 per bush.

On plants younger than three years old, more tendrils are formed and the rosettes are well developed.

The number of whiskers increases significantly with strong soil moisture and the application of large doses of nitrogen fertilizers.

The conditions for the development of strawberries in the period after harvesting affect the winter hardiness of the bushes. The plant accumulates carbohydrates (starch, sugar), fats and proteins in the stems and roots, which contribute to better overwintering. How more leaves at this time, the more nutrients accumulate and the easier the bush will overwinter. In addition, winter hardiness is affected by hardening the plant, when before the onset of severe frosts it is exposed to temperatures of minus 8 °C. At the same time, starch in the plant turns into sugar, the concentration of cell sap increases, and winter hardiness increases.

Inhibition of plants during the post-harvest period (lack of moisture and nutrients) is the main reason for low yields and poor frost resistance of strawberries.

Strawberries are not a frost-resistant plant, but they overwinter well under snow cover. Since its roots are shallow, it is demanding on the fertility and moisture of the top layer of soil. With appropriate agricultural technology, it develops well on a wide variety of soils and produces high yields within 5 years. However, with age, the berries become much smaller. Therefore, you should limit yourself to getting 4 harvests.

For practical purposes, strawberries are propagated by mustaches, and when developing new varieties, by seeds.

Strawberry is a perennial herbaceous (or woody semi-shrub) evergreen plant (with constant renewal of leaves) with a rhizome and a strongly shortened aboveground branched, semi-lignified stem part located near the surface of the earth.

Perennial strawberry stems are characterized by dwarfism (sedimentous growth), caused by their extremely slow progressive growth in height. The annual growth of the strawberry stem does not exceed 1–2 cm, as a result of which very short internodes and a dense arrangement of leaves in the form of rosettes are formed on it.

The number of branches in a bush varies significantly, depending on the varietal characteristics and growing conditions. The strength of flowering and yield greatly depend on the branching of the bushes.

Strawberry stems tend to be located in the ground layer, in an inclined or semi-recumbent position, and therefore in 5-6 year old plants the stems usually do not rise higher than 10-15 cm from the soil surface.

Unlike other fruit and berry plants, strawberries do not have a pronounced dormant period. Its leaves do not fall in the fall, but mostly go into winter green and die off gradually throughout the entire period of the plant’s life.

The above-ground part of strawberries has three types of shoots, which differ sharply in their biological functions (horns, pedicels, tendrils), and leaves.

Horns

The first type of shoots, called horns, include shortened annual shoots 1–1.5 cm long. In the year of growth, each formed horn has an apical flower bud, a rosette of 3–7 leaves, lateral or aerial (in the leaf axils) buds, which under favorable conditions, pedicels are formed, and adventitious roots are formed at the base of the horn. Pedicels are formed from the apical and axillary buds of the upper leaves the following year. After fruiting, the pedicels die off, and this ends the growth of this horn. The axillary buds of the lower leaves of the horn are vegetative. Further growth of the aerial part occurs due to the axillary buds, from which both horns and whiskers are formed.

A rosette of strawberries at the time of rooting has only one horn. By autumn, a young plant can have 2–3 horns, a two-year-old plant can have 5–9, a three-year-old plant can have 8–16, and a 5–6-year-old plant can have 25–40 horns. Subsequently, the growth of new horns occurs more slowly due to the aging of the plant. The degree of branching with the bush growing method is greater. Based on the number of horns formed, weakly, medium and strongly branching varieties are distinguished.

After the horn bears fruit and tendrils develop from the axillary buds of the lower leaves, and new horns develop from the lateral buds of the middle leaves, the old horn, having lost all its leaves, turns into part of the rhizome. The number of horns is progressively increasing. The highest degree of horn formation, as well as general shoot-forming ability, is observed in the first 1–3 years. The presence of a terminal (apical) bud determines the sympodial nature of the growth of the horns, when each subsequent year the growths are formed below and to the side of the terminal bud, located not vertically, but at a certain angle.

The growth of shortened shoots - strawberry horns leads to the fact that each subsequent year the growths appear below and to the side of the apical bud, and the rhizome and the shoots - horns located on it - are not located vertically, but at an angle, which facilitates its hilling with soil.

Pedicels

In strawberries and strawberries, generative organs are formed on pedicels, which are a modified shoot. Pedicels develop in early spring from flower buds - terminal (apical) buds and periapical ones, located in the axils of the upper leaves.

Pedicels have 1–2 stem leaves and an inflorescence. They differ in the degree of branching, height and number of flowers, which depends on the variety and nutritional conditions of the plants. The number of flowers in a peduncle ranges from 3 to 30.

The pedicels are thick and thinner, rounded and fasciated (fused). It has been noticed that larger fruits develop on thicker and fasciated peduncles.

Peduncles are placed differently in relation to the leaves of strawberries. In some varieties they are raised and located slightly above the level of the leaves of the bush, in others they are located at the level of the leaves, in others - below the level of the leaves. The latter are less able to keep the fruits raised above the ground, which does not ensure their high commercial quality.

Inflorescence formation occurs when the day length is reduced to 10–12 hours, and the temperature at night drops to 5–8°C. Planting additional inflorescences is also possible in early spring when growing strawberries under film cover. After the snow melts and the average temperature reaches above 5°C, strawberry growth resumes and after about 2–2.5 weeks, flower stalks appear.

Mustache

The third type of shoots is mustaches, or ground stolons. These creeping long cord-like shoots are organs of vegetative propagation. They are formed from vegetative buds. The mustache mainly appears after strawberries bear fruit. On young plants they form earlier than on fruiting ones. They develop from buds located in the axils of the lower leaves of the horn. Removing peduncles (on mother bushes) stimulates early plantation.

The mustache has long internodes and nodes. Along the length of the creeping shoot, nodes are formed every 10–20 cm (depending on the variety). Rosettes of leaves and roots (new young plants) develop from some nodes, and branching shoots from others. At each even node (second, fourth, etc.), rosettes of leaves appear on its upper side, and roots appear on the lower side, which, under favorable conditions (moist and loose soil), immediately take root. Thus, rosettes are always formed on an even node, and branches are formed from the first internodes.

As a result, young plants develop, which are used as planting material. From odd nodes (first, third, etc.) shoots (whiskers) of the second order develop, in which, just like shoots of the first order, rosettes develop from even nodes, and branching shoots from odd nodes.

From the axils of the first lower leaf of the rosette (subject to good nutrition), a tendril in turn develops, on which rosettes and branches appear, in the same order as on the main lash. This creates carpeting.

In branching and hanging varieties of strawberries, the rosettes do not come into contact with the soil.

The number of formed mustaches and rosettes differs sharply depending on the variety, as well as agricultural technology. Rosettes consist of leaves, buds and adventitious roots. 3–5 rosettes develop on one mustache, and 5–30 mustaches grow from one bush (their number depends on the variety; there are also “mustless” varieties). On ordinary bushes, if the stalks are not cut off, from 4–5 to 10 lashes grow.

A rooted rosette has a shortened stem part, on which from 3 to 7 leaves are arranged in a spiral. Fibrous roots extend from its lower part.

You can increase the number of rosettes from a bush by pinning the mustache in front of the future rosette, i.e. you can help it take root. In this case, you get not only a larger number, but also better rooted rosettes.

The high adaptability of plants is not always a positive property of a variety, since as a result, the mother bushes are severely depleted and their yield the next year is sharply reduced. As studies have shown, the removal of nutrients by tendrils per unit area significantly exceeds their removal by the crop.

The first whiskers appear at the end of flowering (usually in mid-June), and mass regrowth begins after the end of fruiting and continues until the end of the growing season.

On a young plantation they appear earlier and there are more of them. In plants of early-ripening varieties, whiskers appear earlier, in late-ripening varieties - later. Removing peduncles stimulates early and more active formation of whiskers, which is important for queen plants.

In hybrid plants, the formation of whiskers occurs much earlier, even before flowering (in plants 1.5–2 months old). This feature of young hybrid plants to produce whiskers at a young (before fruiting) age is essential for their use in vegetative hybridization.

Strawberry varieties also differ in the thickness of the mustache. Thick mustache is a sign of cultivated varieties. In many cases, it is an indicator of the size of the berries. They also ensure good development of the rosettes formed from the mustache, which is very important for obtaining high-quality planting material.

On fruit-bearing plantations in hot, dry weather (without irrigation), the rosettes take root weakly and live off the mother plants, depleting them, reducing winter hardiness and productivity.

Leaves

All three types of shoots bear a certain number of leaves. Strawberry leaves are trifoliate. They have a complex lobed structure, the petioles are usually long, and the leaves form a rosette on the horns and tendrils. On peduncles they are less developed and are located singly. They develop in annual increments of 7–15 pieces. on each stem.

Each leaf has a long (10–20 cm) petiole. Buds form in the axils of the leaves. In spring, new leaves first appear, then inflorescences form, and overwintered leaves gradually die off (before flowering begins). The size of the leaves varies depending on the variety, the time of their development on the shoot and the living conditions of the plants.

The formation of new leaves and the death of old leaves occurs throughout the season. However, there are two waves of active vegetative growth - in spring and autumn. The first wave of leaf growth occurs before flowering, the second after harvest. During the fruiting period, leaf growth slows down, but does not stop.

After fruiting ends, in September–October, the summer leaves partially die off and are replaced by autumn leaves. Their growth stops at temperatures below 5°.

Under favorable conditions, they overwinter under the snow and then continue to grow until mid-spring. Leaves produced in early spring are usually larger and last 115–135 days. The leaves formed in summer are smaller and live for about 80–90 days. Massive death of summer leaves occurs in autumn. Some of them go into winter green and die off in winter. The longest lifespan of leaves is 200–250 days.

Leaves that form late in autumn and do not have time to fully develop before the onset of sub-zero temperatures overwinter in an underdeveloped state and continue their development with the onset of positive temperatures in spring. further development. Such leaves are usually small in size and live until fruiting begins. The leaves, which overwinter in their infancy in the apical bud, also develop in the spring, but they are larger and their lifespan reaches 120–130 days.

In addition to the usual trifoliate leaves, strawberries have leaves that form in the flower bud. They grow on a peduncle, have a greatly altered shape and die off when fruiting is completed.

The leaves of different varieties of strawberries are of different sizes, varying degrees of pubescence, serration and color. Larger leaves usually indicate larger berries. The color of the leaf blade varies from light green to dark green. The length of the leaf petiole is essential. At the base of the leaf petiole there are stipules, which are also varied in size, shape and color.

If we exclude all kinds of external causes (disease, etc.), then we can conclude that the lifespan of strawberry leaves is different and, depending on the time of their formation, varietal characteristics, ranges from 80 to 250 days. Under the influence of high temperatures and insufficient water supply, the vital activity of leaves sharply decreases. Strawberry leaves do not fall off, but die off, drying up on the bush.

The leaves formed on the horns, peduncles and tendrils overwinter, protecting (together with dead and fallen summer leaves, which are removed only in the spring) the roots and buds of plants from freezing and carrying out initial assimilation in the spring. The lifespan of these leaves can be 220–240 days.

In favorable conditions, the age of plants can reach 20 years or more.

Root system

The underground part of strawberry plants consists of a short and branched rhizome and roots. The root system of strawberries is branched and fibrous.

The massive formation of adventitious roots at the base of annual growths (horns) in the upper part of the rhizome determines the growth of roots from top to bottom and the location of their bulk at any age in the upper layers of the soil. About 90% of the roots are located in a layer 20–25 cm deep. Only a small part of the roots penetrates to a depth of 40–60 cm. In some varieties ( Festival, Talisman, Zenga-Zengana etc.) the roots penetrate to a depth of 70–80 cm, so they suffer less from drought. To the sides, 10–15 cm beyond the projection of the bush, only a small part of the roots extends. By the end of July, some of the roots die off and new roots begin to form.

The growth of the rhizome is due to the development of above-ground stems. Usually, from the third year of plant life, the rhizome in its lower part begins to gradually die off, and part of the main root system also dies off with it. This negatively affects plant nutrition and, consequently, their productivity.

Strawberries are characterized by the longest - about 1 mm - root hairs. Their lifespan is from 18 to 320 days, depending on the period of their appearance.

The strawberry rhizome, which is a modified stem, also serves as a container for reserve nutrients. It is covered with non-falling stipule scales; horns and adventitious roots are formed on the side of the rhizome. The rhizome forms annual increments (in the upper part), gradually burrowing into the soil. From 2–3 years after planting, the lower part of the rhizome begins to die. The length of the living (not yet dead) part of the rhizomes at 4 years of age is approximately 8–10 cm (for perennials it reaches 13–15 cm) with a diameter of about 11.5 cm; the total length of the root system is 30–35 cm.

Strawberry roots, like leaves, actively grow in waves. In spring, strawberry root growth begins at a temperature of the root layer of 7–8°C. The first wave is from spring to flowering. The second wave occurs after fruiting and stops in late autumn. The greatest growth of the root system is observed in the 2nd year after planting.

The root system is sensitive to excess moisture; in places where water is retained for a long time in the spring, the roots can rot and the plants die.

The rhizome, as is known, has resting (dormant) buds formed in the axils of the leaves of the stem and, under certain conditions, giving rise to new above-ground organs, at the base of which a new root system is formed.

Strawberries have very good regenerative ability. When plants lose their above-ground organs (mechanical damage or freezing of stems, etc.), dormant buds of the rhizome, in the presence of moisture and above-zero temperatures in the soil, awaken and restore the lost above-ground organs.

In addition to dormant axillary buds, strawberries on their rhizomes form adventitious buds, from which, if the above-ground part of the plant is damaged or completely lost, new stems with a young root system can also develop. Thus, when cutting stems of 3–5 years of age at the soil level, strawberries form new stems from the buds of the rhizome, and some plants develop ordinary, trifoliate leaves, characteristic of old plants in stages, while others develop the same type as in seed plants at the first stage of development, at first the leaves are single, undissected, and only later - the leaves are trifoliate.

As a result of the growth of the stem, annual increments rise above the soil surface, at the base of which young adventitious roots develop; a significant part of them becomes “aerial” as they move away from the soil surface. A lack of moisture in the surface layer of soil in the summer usually leads to the drying out and death of a significant part of the newly formed roots, and in plants 3–4 years old, some of the main roots begin to die. Such plants lack water and nutrients, which leads to weakened plant growth, shredding of leaves and berries, and even their death.

After 3–4 years, the old parts of the rhizome begin to die off, and the plant breaks up into separate parts - particulates. This phenomenon (particulation) is a natural way of vegetative propagation of strawberries.

Kidneys

Strawberry buds begin to grow and develop from meristematic tissue in the leaf axils. At an early stage of their development, all buds are qualitatively equivalent, but subsequently, depending on the growing conditions of plants and the time of leaf formation, the buds are qualitatively differentiated. From some, flower buds develop, from others - stems, from others - creeping shoots (whiskers). A significant portion of the buds do not differentiate and remain in a state of dormant (dormant) buds.

The nature of differentiation of axillary buds depends on the time of their formation and the living conditions of plants during the growing season. In most cases, whiskers are formed from the buds that develop in the spring. Buds that appear in summer are differentiated into flower and growth (stem and tendril) buds. The buds that developed in the autumn remain dormant. By the end of the growing season, the stem, as a rule, finishes its growth and continues to develop in the spring of next year, forming new growths. Flower buds develop from the lateral buds at the top of the stem. This is how bud development usually occurs in strawberries under normal living conditions, that is, dormant buds usually do not develop and remain dormant.

And when the normal functioning of plants is disrupted as a result of the loss of individual organs (candrils, stems), the development and differentiation of dormant buds occurs in the direction of restoring the lost organs.

So, if you begin to systematically remove tendrils (creeping shoots) from a 2-3 year old plant from the very beginning of their growth, then the plants form them continuously until the end of the growing season, and several times more creeping shoots are formed than is typical for the variety under normal conditions. growth conditions.

Only a specific lost plant organ can develop from dormant stem buds. From the dormant bud of the rhizome, not individual organs and parts of the plant develop, but its entire above-ground mass, all vegetative and generative organs, and, in addition, a new powerful root system is also formed. This can be observed in strawberry plants, the above-ground mass of which has been mowed down to rejuvenate them.

Of great interest is the study of the development and differentiation of flower buds in strawberries, since this is related to plant productivity. Fertilizer application, watering and removal of tendrils do not have a significant effect on changing the timing of the formation of flower buds, but greatly affect their number.

Therefore, in the fall, during the differentiation (laying) of flower buds, plant nutrition and providing them with moisture are of decisive importance. With a lack of moisture and poor plant care, very few flower buds are formed and the plant yield decreases next year.

The development of flower buds in strawberries occurs in July–August. In the autumn period, only the laying of the organs of the fruit bud occurs, ending at a number of buds in early spring, with the onset of above-zero temperatures.

The most important condition for the development of buds in the direction of flower buds during this period of time is sufficient provision of plants with nutrients and moisture, with moisture being the leading factor.

Therefore, good agrotechnical maintenance of strawberry plantings during the harvest period and especially after harvesting is the most important condition, ensuring the development of flower buds and a good harvest next year.

In remontant strawberry varieties, as is known, flower buds develop throughout the entire growing season, and they bear fruit from spring to late autumn.

Inflorescences and flowers

The inflorescence of strawberries is a two- or three-membered semi-umbrella. The primary flower (the one that blooms first) is the most developed. The higher the next flowers are located on the branches of the inflorescence, and the later they bloom, the smaller the berries they produce. The inflorescence is very variable within the variety in terms of the degree of compactness, the number of pedicels and their length.

Due to this structure of the inflorescence, as well as the non-simultaneous development of pedicels in the bush, the flowering of strawberries is extended over time. The flowering period, depending on the variety, ranges from 20 to 30 days. About 15 days after the appearance of the pedicels, flowering begins. The duration of flowering of one flower is from one to four days. Strawberry flowering is favored by weather with a temperature of 15–20°C. From the moment of pollination to the ripening of the berries, about 30 days pass.

Strawberry flowers have five petals and sepals. The petals are white or light pink, depending on the variety. Flowers vary in size, color and shape of petals, development of stamens, pollen sacs and pollen activity. Varieties with larger petals and flowers, as a rule, develop larger berries.

Most strawberry varieties have bisexual flowers, they have normally developed pistils, stamens with pollen sacs and pollen (almost all industrial varieties). Only some varieties ( Mitze Schindler, Komsomolskaya Pravda, Abundant, Miracle of Keten, Late Kuban, Late Leopoldovskaya etc.) have female flowers (with underdeveloped stamens). To pollinate them, it is necessary to plant a pollinating variety (which coincides with the same-sex variety in terms of flowering time) - Saxonka, Mysovka and etc.

The upper buds of each horn, especially the terminal (apical) one, are flowering under favorable conditions and produce a harvest the following year. In unfavorable conditions, they remain vegetative, for example, after a dry summer or during late planting. The formation of flower buds begins in August, early varieties finish it on average by the beginning of September, varieties of medium ripening - by mid-September, late varieties - by the end of September or even in spring. In autumn, when the temperature at night is below 5–8°, the formation of flower buds stops. Depending on the development of individual horns, the difference in the time of laying and the degree of development of flower buds within one bush reaches two weeks.

During the period of flower stalk formation, plants are very sensitive to lack of moisture.

For normal flowering, strawberries must go through a dormant period of 20–30 days at 0–5°C. Vegetative growth and flower formation resumes in the spring, when the temperature rises above 5°. On average, flower stalks appear 2 weeks from the beginning of the growing season. Their number varies greatly and depends on the variety. In high-yielding varieties, as a rule, there are more of them on the bush. There may also be more or fewer flowers on the peduncle. There are significantly fewer of them in varieties Mysovka, Koralka and etc.

Flowering appears approximately 4 weeks after the start of the growing season and 2 weeks after the appearance of peduncles (usually in May, and in remontant and day-neutral strawberries, also in waves from July to November), and can last 2–4 weeks. The flowering time of one flower is usually 1–4 days.

Flowering begins at a sum of positive temperatures (above 5°): for early varieties - 180–235°, for mid-ripening varieties - 223–276°, for late varieties - 255–353° (Yu. Katinskaya).

There is also a relationship between the time of flowering and the time of ripening of berries. In this regard, when developing new, larger-fruited and early-ripening varieties, it is possible to carry out primary selection even before they ripen.

Flowering and ripening of berries on one bush do not occur simultaneously. The timing of flowering and ripening is influenced by a certain sequence of flower blooming. First, a flower of the 1st order appears, then 2 flowers of the 2nd order appear from the axils of the bracts of the flower of the 1st order, then 4 flowers of the 3rd order appear from the axils of the bracts of the flowers of the 2nd order. Flowers of higher orders in some varieties are sterile.

From the moment of pollination to the ripening of the berries, 20–30 days pass.

Fruit and achenes

The fruit (berry) of strawberries is false. It is formed from an overgrown receptacle in the form of a juicy and fleshy berry. On the surface of the berry there are achenes (seeds), immersed to a greater or lesser depth. The number of achenes (seeds) in one fruit, depending on its variety and size, ranges from 20 to 350 pieces.

The largest berry in the cluster is the 1st order berry, which is also sterile and important from the point of view of pomology (the science of describing varieties) - that is, it carries varietal characteristics. The size of the berries decreases in accordance with the order of branching of the inflorescence (tassel). When a flower of the 1st order dies, the berries of the 2nd order never reach the size characteristic of the berries of the 1st order. From the point of view of yield, berries of the 2nd, 3rd and 1st orders (1–3 pickings) are important. In some varieties ( Saxony, Coralka, Abundant, Northern harvest, Late from Pavlovsk etc.) a sharp decrease in the size of berries (in the variety Koralka- from 6–10 g to 2.5 g) is a very negative property. Varieties such as Festivalnaya, Late Zagorye, New, Mysovka etc., are characterized by better uniformity of berries in all varieties.

Strawberry varieties differ greatly from each other in the size of their berries. Some varieties have very large berries (their weight reaches 50 g), for example, Cardinal, Dubrovsky spring, Zenit, Culver, Desna, Prisvyata, Yuzhanka, Nastenka, Vesnyanka; others have large ones (30–40 g) - Epic, Early dense; others have average (15–20 g) - Marieva Maheraukh) and, finally, the berries are small (3–5 g) - Russian.

The size of the berries varies greatly within the variety and depending on the growing conditions. With poor agricultural technology and especially with a lack of moisture in the soil during the period of growth and development of fruits, the most large-fruited varieties Strawberry berries become smaller and the yield decreases sharply. With good care, when the plants are sufficiently provided with nutrients and water, the average size of the berries increases and even the smallest varieties produce a high yield.

The size of the berries is also significantly influenced by the branching pattern of the peduncles. Depending on where on the peduncle branching and formation of the inflorescence begins, the size of the first and subsequent berries in the inflorescence may be larger or smaller. In cases where the branching of the inflorescence begins at its base, there is usually no sharp difference in size between the first and the next 2-3 berries. These varieties develop significantly more large berries. But if the branching of the inflorescence begins in the upper part of the peduncle, at a height of 7–10 cm, then the first fruits are, as a rule, larger in size, and the subsequent ones sharply decrease in size.

Strawberries come in a wide variety of shapes, with a neck ( Early dense, Cardinal) and without a neck ( Southerner, Exhibition, Alice). A variety is usually characterized by a certain shape of berries, but there are varieties in which the shape of the first berries in the inflorescence differs significantly from the subsequent ones. Therefore, it is customary to use the first berries of the inflorescence when describing or identifying a variety. This also applies to their size.

The pulp of the berry varies in color, consistency, taste and aroma among different varieties, and this is a very important feature for identifying the variety. The dark red color of the pulp and juice, as well as the high density of the berry pulp, are highly valued among varieties intended for technological processing. For varieties whose berries are intended for fresh consumption, the color of the pulp and juice is not significant. For technical varieties, it is also important that the berries contain a relatively higher amount of acid. For dessert varieties, it is important that their berries contain more sugar and their taste is sweet and sour. Aroma, high vitamin content and relatively high transportability of berries are mandatory characteristics of strawberries of all varieties.

As the berries ripen, the achenes also ripen. Achenes can be located on the surface of the berries ( Cardinal, Lvovskaya early, Desna, Arnica, Nastenka), slightly submerged ( Southerner, Exhibition, Alice, Little Red Riding Hood), deeply depressed ( Mitze Schindler).

The superficial location of the achenes increases the transportability of the berries. The relationship between the density of the pulp and the placement of the achenes was also noted: when the pulp is tender and loose, they deepen under the pressure of their mass. The superficial location of the achenes protects the skin of the berry from mechanical damage.

Without the development of achenes, the berry does not develop. If pollination is poor, the berries become deformed in their development. The strawberry achenes themselves are of no economic value, since the plant reproduces vegetatively. But they are important for the development of new varieties.

The berries of strawberry plants within a variety do not ripen at the same time. Typically, their ripening lasts, depending on the variety and weather conditions, from 10–15 to 20–30 days. The non-simultaneous ripening of berries mainly depends on the structure of the inflorescences and the different development of peduncles on the bush.

Creating large-fruited varieties with very smooth ripening of berries in the inflorescence (which makes it possible to significantly reduce the number of harvests and dramatically increase labor productivity during harvesting) is one of the tasks of breeders. Currently, varieties have been created in which the first two harvests account for over 80% of the ripened berries ( Prisvyata, Marieva Maheraukh, Alaya).

The duration of fruiting depends on the variety (ripening period) and weather. In warm weather in June, fruiting lasts two weeks; in cool weather, it lasts for a month. For example, varieties have a short fruiting period (20–22 days) Mysovka, New, long period (25–30 days) - Beauty of Zagorje, Abundant.

Light requirements

Strawberry is a light-loving plant. In shady conditions, strawberries grow well and produce many tendrils and rosettes, but bear fruit somewhat weaker, which is explained by the later and less intense formation of flower buds. The highest strawberry yields can be obtained in well-lit areas warmed by the sun. However, experiments have established that when illumination decreases by 15–20%, which is observed in the vicinity of shading plants, the yield does not decrease. Thus, a weak degree of shading of strawberries in row-spacings young garden 10–15 years of age almost does not reduce its productivity.

Moderate shading when grown in the southern regions, where it suffers greatly from heat, winds and lack of moisture in the soil and air, on the contrary, promotes normal growth and fruiting of plants.

Towards daylight hours Garden strawberry varieties are divided into short- and long-day varieties. Most varieties of large-fruited strawberries are short-day varieties. Their generative organs are actively formed under conditions of a short day (10–12 hours) and low (not higher than 15–17°) temperatures.

Moisture requirements

The superficial location of the bulk of the root system makes the growth of strawberry plants highly dependent on the presence of moisture in the upper soil horizon. This often has a negative impact on plant growth and productivity, especially in southern regions where it can be difficult to provide plants with moisture.

Even in the Moscow region, in hot years, with irregular watering, it was observed in strawberries that immediately after harvest, almost all the leaves withered and drooped. Instead of the rapid development of mustaches in July-August, there was a complete stop in their growth.

In strawberry plants, due to their age, the lower part of the rhizome, and with it part of the roots going into deeper layers, dies. Root formation is transferred with the age of plants to the upper layers of the soil due to the development of roots from the base of annual growths and the upper part of the rhizome. Therefore, the water supply to such plants deteriorates, which leads to a decrease in yield and their premature aging.

Reacting sharply to a lack of moisture, strawberry plants do not tolerate excessive moisture at all.

Frost resistance

Of all the berry crops, strawberries are the least winter-hardy. The root system and leaves are especially sensitive to low temperatures. A short-term decrease in temperature in the root layer to minus 8° leads to severe damage to the roots and rhizomes. Overwintering leaves are severely damaged at minus 10° and die at minus 15–20°; only the horns can survive.

Plants transplanted late in the fall and not sufficiently rooted before the onset of winter are not stable and freeze out in snowless winters and significant frosts.

Flowers and buds are very sensitive to frost. If a bud or flower is damaged by frost, the pistil turns black and dries out. If the ovary is slightly damaged by frost, the berry develops, but in an ugly shape.

In harsh and snowless winters, not only the leaves of strawberry plants freeze. Very often, their flower buds and stems are partially frozen or completely frozen. Such plants, if they have preserved rhizomes, develop stems and leaves from dormant buds in the spring, but do not bear fruit this year.

Strawberry plants, provided with sufficient moisture and nutrients throughout the growing season and especially in the autumn, become more frost-resistant.

The ground-level nature of the growth of strawberry plants and the short growing season contribute to its advancement far to the north, where there is sufficient snow cover to protect the plants from freezing. The limiting factor in these conditions may be insufficient heat in the summer.

Wild strawberries: all about your favorite berry

Overwintering strawberry leaves form the fourth group of leaves and are formed in the fall. Horns are subsequently formed from their axillary buds. Strawberry leaves that fall during the growing season, as well as other plant remains, should be removed from the site and burned so as not to accumulate possible diseases and pests on the plantings.

With the help of mustaches, strawberries reproduce. There can be up to 30 of them on one bush. In turn, on each tendril, from 3 to 5 rosettes of leaves are formed, which are formed at the apical points of growth of the stem - hearts. Over time, adventitious aerial roots form on the rosettes, which soon take root. Unrooted rosettes feed on the mother plant, while rooted rosettes feed on their own roots. Rosettes preserve the varietal characteristics of strawberries and are used for their propagation. The best for propagation are the first two rosettes located closer to the mother plant. It is not difficult to calculate that up to 60 rosettes can form from one strawberry bush in a season.

Strawberries begin to bloom in mid-to-late May. Strawberries form a corymbose inflorescence of five to ten five-petaled white or slightly yellowish flowers. Most strawberry varieties have bisexual flowers with multiple stamens and pistils. They are pollinated by their own pollen with the help of insects. Only a few varieties of strawberries, in which the stamens are underdeveloped, require a partner for pollination - a variety with unisexual flowers. The lower flowers in the strawberry inflorescence bloom first. Of these, the first, most large berries weighing up to 40 g. The upper flowers bloom later. The berries formed from them are smaller, their weight is up to 15 g. Often on a strawberry branch you can simultaneously see flowers, ripening berries and ripe berries.

It takes about a month from the beginning of flowering to the harvesting of strawberries. After flowering, the juicy receptacle of the strawberry grows very strongly and forms a false fruit, which we call a berry. The berry can be red, pink or white in color with reddish or white flesh. The real botanical fruits of strawberries are located on the surface of the overgrown receptacle (that is, on the surface of the berry) and represent numerous brownish seeds - nuts. Some varieties of strawberries are propagated with such seeds. More often they are used for breeding purposes.

Read more about garden strawberries:

Garden strawberries. Strawberry. / Beneficial features. / Care. /How to water and feed strawberries. / Diseases and pests. /Strawberry propagation. /Where and how to plant strawberries. /Planting strawberries. / Strawberry varieties. / Recipes for strawberries (or wild strawberries) in winter.

Wild strawberry - Fragaria vesca L.

Family Rosaceae

Popular name: strawberry.

Wild strawberry- a perennial herbaceous plant up to 25 cm high. The stem is thin, pubescent. The leaves are trifoliate. Blooms in May - June. The flowers are yellow-white. Medicinal plant.

Found throughout Russia.

Medicinal raw materials- leaves and fruits. Fruit harvested after full ripening. You can also use the rhizomes of the plant.

Chemical composition

In strawberry fruits contains ascorbic acid, carotene, vitamins, sugars, organic acids, tannins, pectin, dyes, traces of alkaloids and other compounds.

Application

Wild strawberries used as a diaphoretic, diuretic and antifebrile agent. Infusion of strawberry leaves(1:10) - for uterine bleeding, gout, kidney stones and urolithiasis, diseases of the liver and spleen. Decoction of leaves and berrieswild strawberries(1:10) is used internally for diarrhea, externally - in the form of compresses for bleeding wounds.

Short description. An infusion of wild strawberry leaves is used for uterine bleeding, kidney stones and urolithiasis, gout, diseases of the liver and spleen.

Veterinary clinics

Compound feeds and premixes for cattle. Application of wild strawberries in veterinary medicine. Dry food for animals: cats, dogs, cows, goats. Grooming cosmetics for dogs. Flea and tick remedies, toys for dogs.

Construction of cowsheds.

Construction of houses in rural areas

Construction of wooden houses. Construction of tent hangars for Agriculture. Construction of houses from laminated veneer lumber.

Descriptions of medicinal plants for animals

Cumin common Calamus common Moss club Althaea officinalis Meadow clover Anabasis leafless Diaphoretic teas Aralia Manchurian Veronica officinalis Mountain arnica Flat eryngium Chokeberry chokeberry Turnip Astragalus Diuretics Marsh rosemary Eleutherococcus senticosus Barberry common Gorse Lesser periwinkle Coltsfoot common henbane spotted orchis silver birch cabbage white cabbage Immortelle sandy Common bean Hawthorn Softeners Common lingonberry Adonis spring Elderberry black Common hops Drop cap officinalis Marsh knotweed Snake knotweed Snake knotweed Peppery knotweed St. John's wort Severe knotweed Burdock big knotweed Avian comfrey tall Elecampane yarrow Common sweet clover medicinal Lily of the valley Common oak Broad beans Oregano Wheat Angelica officinalis Sorghum Ginseng Astringent stomach teas Zhoster laxative Diuretic teas Zamanikha high Carminative St. John's wort Expectorants Capsicum Capsicum small Centaury dill Viburnum common Garlic cranberry Swamp cranberry Adonis spring Mullein Thistle is multi-leaved Nettle Stinging thistle y Agony flatifolia Gravilat urban Burnet officinalis Angelica officinalis Alder buckthorn Centaury small Yellow egg capsule Long-spurted Kokushnik Corn Alfalfa crescent Common meadowsweet Mytnik swamp Lily of the valley May common tansy Cinquefoil erect Meadowsweet Leuzea safflower-shaped Tripartite succession Schisandra chinensis Linden Onion (ramson) Common raspberry Spring primrose Coltsfoot Buckwheat Juniper Corn Sea buckthorn Cucumber Dandelion medicinal Rye sativum Oleander common Pumpkin Alder Barley Sedge parva Diuretic teas Male fern Vitamin teas Shepherd's purse Gastric laxative teas Tansy Soothing teas Moss club club Insecticidal Plantain Enveloping Wormwood Wound-healing Motherwort cordial Asparagus officinalis Roma pharmacy box Real tobacco Chamomile Thyme common rowan common fennel common currant black horseradish common pine common sorrel common sorrel marsh grass calamus common Thermopsis lanceolate marshmallow officinalis common caraway common saxifrage common bearberry watch three-leaved water trefoil golden capsicum Pumpkin meadow geranium Thousand foliage Peppermint knotweed Violet Sweet clover Horsetail Oregano Common thyme Creeping thyme Levywort Chaga Golden rod (goldenrod) Hellebore Lobel Katran red Tripartite burnet Burnet officinalis Bird cherry Common cinquefoil Erect blueberry Common bilberry Lyuba bifolia Great celandine Great mallow Wood rose Cinnamon Soapwort officinalis Horse sorrel Dandelion officinalis Eleutherococcus senticosus Sedum acrid Sedum white Sundew rotundifolia An is common Marsh dry grass Aralia high Creeping thyme Arnica mountain hellebore Lobel's Peanut (groundnut) Horse sorrel Valerian officinalis Common heather Yellow gentian Kupena officinalis Mustard of Sarepta Bear's onion Elecampane British Eyebright Elecampane tall Male fern Common ginseng Bearberry common hyssop officinalis Peas Calendula Common melon Iqua pale Kart ofel Kendyr hemp Tomato Cat's paw dioecious Oats Stinging nettle Radish oleracea Gardening rhombifolia Rice sativum Coriander sativum Common beet Lavender soybean Leuzea safflower China sativa Schisandra chinensis Spinach oleracea Vegetable onion Vitamin tea Lovage officinalis Hemostatic teas Melissa officinalis Expectorant teas Carrot sativum Carminative teas Peppermint Breast teas Parsnips Stomach astringent teas Curly parsley Gastric regulating teas Plantain diaphoretic teas Snowdrop Voronova Antihelmintic Motherwort pentaloba Astringents Rhubarb Tangut Hemostatic Chamomile Milds Blue cyanosis Painkillers and sedatives Prickly milkweed Diaphoretics Smelly celery Laxatives

Strawberries (garden strawberries) - agricultural technology, structure,
crop rotation, planting, varieties, seedlings

Agrobiological characteristics of strawberries (garden strawberries)

Strawberry (garden strawberry) is a perennial herbaceous evergreen plant with regular leaf renewal. Two waves of active leaf growth are observed - in the spring at the beginning of the growing season and in the summer after harvest. The greatest loss of leaves occurs from late autumn to spring when air temperatures are low and there is no snow cover. Under unfavorable conditions, only the horns remain alive by spring.

The above-ground part of the strawberry bush consists of annual horns with apical and axillary buds, leaves, peduncles, and tendrils with rosettes. Root system Strawberries are fibrous, branched. Consists of perennial rhizomes, adventitious roots of the horn and lateral fibrous roots. The bulk of the roots (more than 80%) are located in the upper layers of the soil (up to 20-25 cm).

Structure of a strawberry bush (four years old):
1 - annual horn; 2 - perennial rhizome; 3 - peduncle; 4 - sheet; 5 - mustache;
6 - socket; 7 - apical bud; 8 - axillary bud;
9 - lateral roots; 10 - adventitious roots of the horn.

Varieties of strawberries (garden strawberries)

Varieties of strawberries (garden strawberries): Krasavitsa Zagorya, Zarya

Varieties of strawberries (garden strawberries): Rubinovaya, Festivalnaya

Varieties of strawberries (garden strawberries): Zenga zengana, Talisman

The most popular variety of strawberries (garden strawberries): Ruby pendant

Strawberry (garden strawberry) crop rotations

To intensively use the area and obtain high yields, it is necessary to use crop rotation with the following rotation of crops:
1. Early greens (radish, lettuce, dill), green manure+ planting strawberries (July 20 - August 1);
2. Strawberries in the first year of fruiting;
3. Strawberries of the second year of fruiting;
4. Strawberries in their third year of fruiting + green, green manure.

Development of strawberry crop rotation by year of use.
The following crops can be used as predecessors:
greens (radish, lettuce, spinach, dill), peas, beans, mustard, radish, turnips,
carrots, onions, garlic, celery, as well as corn, clover, tulips, daffodils.

In such a crop rotation, an area of 5-6 m2 is required for planting annually, with a requirement for strawberries of 15-18 kg (with an average yield of 1 kg/m2).

Fragaria vesca L. - Wild strawberry

Crop rotation area after two rotations (8 years) change places. The plots are arranged so that the rows of strawberries are directed from south to north.

Site and soil preparation

Well-protected light areas with deeply cultivated, loose and breathable soil are suitable for strawberries. The site should be as flat as possible or with a slight slope (no more than 5°). In wetlands, diversion ditches are made and soil is added.

Strawberries are grown on all soils, but the best soils for them are medium loamy soils. Clay and sandy soils should be fertilized with manure and compost. It grows relatively well in soils where the pH is not lower than 5.0, but better on slightly acidic soils with pH 5.5-6.0.

Acidic soils (pH 5.0 and below) are limed, gradually increasing the depth of the arable horizon with the obligatory application of organic fertilizers (in the form of composts) or green fertilizers (incorporation of green manure crops). On soils where the pH is above 6.0, peat, gypsum, mineral fertilizers, and a weak solution of hydrochloric acid are applied.

Pre-landing preparation soil includes: digging with a full shovel, selecting and removing the rhizomes of perennial weeds, applying fertilizers evenly over the area, thoroughly leveling the soil surface, marking the area.

No additional fertilizer should be added to soil that has been well cultivated and fertilized in previous years. On poor soils, the best predecessors of strawberries are green manure crops (mustard, phacelia, etc.), which are incorporated into the soil during the flowering period; the same effect is achieved by introducing plant residues from young weeds, etc. All soil preparation work must be completed 7-10 days before planting the strawberries.

Pre-planting soil mulching

Mulching soil increases the yield of strawberries by 30-35%, accelerates the ripening of berries by 3-5 days, reduces damage to berries by gray rot, and retains soil moisture. You can mulch the soil with various light-proof materials: dark film, special germ-protective paper, roofing felt, etc.

Mulch material 60-120 cm wide is spread on a carefully prepared, leveled and well-moistened soil surface (possibly on low ridges). The edges of the mulch strip (10-15 cm) are secured with soil or pinned with metal staples. Then holes with a diameter of 5-7 cm or cross-shaped cuts of the same length are made in the mulch in accordance with the accepted plant placement pattern.

Between the strips of mulch with plants, you can spread strips of roofing material 30-40 cm wide for the period from spring until the end of fruiting of strawberries (garden strawberries). This prevents the growth of weeds between the rows and reduces the evaporation of moisture from the soil surface. Mulch material can also be spread under already planted plants.

Dates and schemes for planting strawberries (garden strawberries)

Exists general rule: the earlier the plants are planted, the better development and larger harvest should be expected from them next year. Autumn planting of strawberries must be completed before September 5, otherwise there may be poor survival of seedlings, death in winter and greater thinning in the first year.

Single- and multi-line planting schemes are suitable for strawberries. To obtain seedlings, mother plants are planted according to one- and two-line schemes. Such schemes are also used when planting a site without mulching the soil, when seedlings take root in the rows.

WITH uterine area receive planting material only for one year. In the next two years, berries can be grown in this area.

In the area intended for producing berries, plants are planted in a three- or five-line pattern. With this placement, the next year after the first harvest, the plants in the middle rows can be removed (cut) in order to provide better conditions for fruiting in subsequent years. In the vacant spaces, annual vegetable or flower crops can be grown as a compactor: radishes, head lettuce, turnips, cabbage, onions, garlic, tulips, etc.

Strawberry planting schemes (garden strawberries)

For multi-line plantings, weakly leafy varieties are better suited: Krasavitsa Zagorya, Early Maheraukha, Redcoat, Redgauntlet.

Densely leafy varieties prone to severe damage to berries gray rot(Zenga Zengana), should be placed with large distances between plants.

The quality of planting affects the survival rate and subsequent growth of plants. When planting in a hole (hole), the roots of the seedlings are lowered and straightened so that they do not bunch up and bend their ends up. Then the roots are evenly distributed and the hole is filled, compacting with soil in two or three steps, avoiding any voids near the roots. In this case, you need to ensure the correct planting depth: the apical bud (heart) should be at the level of the soil surface.

Potted seedlings It’s easier to plant: insert a pot into the hole, compact it with soil, observing the correct planting depth.

Planting strawberry seedlings (garden strawberries)

When using not fully developed (weak) seedlings, as well as to quickly obtain multi-horned bushes, it is possible to plant two or three plants in one nest.

It is best to plant strawberries in cool weather, in cloudy or even rainy weather. When planting in hot, sunny weather, some of the leaves of the seedlings can be removed. Within 5-7 days after planting, it is advisable to shade the plants with various materials (burlap, newspapers, damp grass, etc.), water or spray them with water more often. Immediately after planting, you should water, using a bucket of water for 10-15 bushes.

Read the continuation of the article "Strawberries (garden strawberries) - a vertical method of growing in a greenhouse, reproduction, pests, diseases" ↩

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What surprises does nature have in store for people! However, fairy tales do not come out of nowhere, but they also cannot be called naked truth. But strawberries really have healing properties, helping to restore a person’s memory.
Strawberries are often confused with wild strawberries. The difference between these plants is small, but still there. Strawberries are more productive and their berries are much smaller in size than strawberries. But strawberries have a more delicate and softer taste and aroma of the fruit.

Strawberries are classified as dioecious plants due to the presence of “different-sex” bushes: the formation of female and male flowers occurs separately from each other. For good strawberry fruiting, which this plant can please its owner, it is enough to select 1-2 male bushes in addition to 4-6 female bushes.
Strawberry leaves are much larger than strawberry leaves: highly corrugated (wrinkled, pulled together), coarsely toothed, sawtooth, always above which are peduncles. The plant itself is quite tall and large in structure, but its flowers are smaller than those of strawberries.
Strawberry, like its “cousin,” differs from other berry plants in the early ripening of fruits and their taste and aromatic qualities.

Morphological features of strawberries

In addition, it bears fruit quickly and reproduces easily. The root system, by its natural formation, belongs to the fibrous type and is a kind of “monopoly” in relation to the total mass of the entire plant - it occupies more than 70%.
The most favorable places for strawberries to grow are level soils not deprived of sunlight. This plant does not like very windy and dry weather. Therefore, before planting strawberries, they take them to garden plot a certain place, either protected by some buildings from the direction of the prevailing winds, or deepened by a spade bayonet and leveled. The soil for this must be prepared in advance and constantly monitored so that over time a dry soil crust does not form on it and there is no stagnation of water - this will have a detrimental effect on the life of the plant, since the process of natural gas exchange will be difficult, and strawberries like to “breathe”.
Strawberries reproduce using so-called “whiskers”, shoots that appear from the axillary lower lateral buds of the plant. After leafy rosettes with small adventitious roots have formed on the “whiskers,” these shoots from the female plant are carefully separated with a sharp knife (or spatula) and used to form a new strawberry plantation.

It is not recommended to take shoots from old plantings - the harvest will be poor in quantity and quality. The best seedlings will be the offspring of healthy “two-year-olds”, which produced more harvest, unlike all the others, and have fibrous roots on not too elongated “mustaches”, located closer to the bush.
When transporting prepared seedlings to another site, it is necessary to place them in plastic or cellophane bags with moist soil and be sure to carry out additional “superficial” moistening by spraying with drinking water.
Strawberries are planted at a certain time, and within a year the plant is able to produce its first harvest. As you know, it is not recommended to constantly “keep” strawberries in the same place personal plot: some bushes of this plant affected by various diseases, thanks to their roots, leave a kind of epicenter of the disease in the soil, which negatively affects the development and fruiting of the first planted crop, and various kinds of pests over time begin to “get used” to the permanent location of the plant and often settle there.
Therefore, for favorable growth of strawberries, planting sites are changed every 3-4 years (or as the yield decreases). In the place where peas or early vegetables were last planted, which do not leave behind a large amount of “garbage” in the soil, unlike onions or cucumbers, you can freely move strawberries, and plant some other garden crop in its original place. With this changing method of places, you can “deceive” pests that adore certain crops, and over time affecting plants diseases.
In general, strawberries are unpretentious in choosing their place of residence - they grow “anywhere,” but if the soil in the garden plot is dominated by sandstones and clay, then it would be good to fertilize it with peat. And yet, of all types of soils, she prefers medium loamy ones. Strawberries do not thrive in acidic soils, but if it so happens that the majority of a plot of land is endowed with just this type of soil, then it needs to be “improved” for strawberry crops.
The acidity of the soil is reduced in advance (a year before planting) by adding ground limestone to it: 450 g per 1 sq.m. landing area. Additionally, over time, mineral fertilizers and fertilizers are added to the soil for strawberries: fresh manure, potassium chloride and superphosphate, which must be used when preparing sites for new plantations, regardless of the type of soil.
After preparing the most favorable place for proper growth and a good harvest, strawberries are planted in two ways: in dry places (in open sun) it is necessary to plant them in deep grooves, and in areas that do not dry out well in the spring - in low beds. The approximate distance between bushes in a row is a quarter of a meter, and between rows - at least 50 cm.
The seedlings are carefully placed in pre-dug holes, pressing against one edge so that you can take advantage of the free space and straighten the roots. Then it is leveled and covered with earth. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the growing point of an individual branch of the strawberry stem peeks out a little. After this, regardless of the soil moisture, the seedlings are watered abundantly, allowing the roots to press tightly against it as the water penetrates deeper. And all that remains is to fertilize the deepened area around the plant with a small layer of peat or manure.
It is best to plant strawberries by the middle - end of August in cloudy weather, when there is a light drizzle - there is a greater likelihood that there will be a good harvest next summer.
Tasty and juicy strawberries contain a rich diet of all kinds of health benefits. human body nutrients. The quantitative content of citric, salicylic, malic and other acids depends mainly on environment and weather conditions, as well as from careful handling of the plant during its development, but it is never deprived of them.
The huge content of iron, manganese, iodine, fluorine, copper, zinc, carotene, vitamins B, C, PP and P-active substances in strawberry fruits has a positive effect on the human body with a general loss of strength. By constantly eating strawberries, you can get rid of the appearance of kidney stones and stabilize the functioning of the urethra. For hypertension and vascular sclerosis, it is good to use the juice of the fruits of this unique plant. And if a patient with a stomach ulcer is constantly tormented by unbearable pain, fresh berries will undoubtedly help.
In folk medicine, it is recommended to use strawberry infusion against periodontal disease and other diseases of the oral cavity. And if the body’s illness is associated with the appearance of various types of eczema and skin rashes, then strawberry juice is simply necessary.
It often happens in a family that Small child begins to be seriously capricious, refusing the next portion of cottage cheese. What to do in this case? Punish? It would be much easier to add a couple of strawberries to the “hated” dish, and all problems would be solved within a few seconds. In addition, it is good to add crushed strawberries to freshly prepared tea - both pleasant and healthy.
Since ancient times, strawberries have been considered a love spell, in most cases working flawlessly: an unfortunate girl, rejected by a kind young man, collected the fragrant berry in a wicker basket and, with the help of an old grandmother-healer, made fresh air"love elixir" The charmed drink was served to the table, and at the moment when the unsuspecting young man raised the glass to his lips, the girl read out a memorized prayer “about the secrets of her heart and the torments of her soul.” As a result, after some time the young man’s family sent matchmakers.
But one very wealthy woman, with the help of strawberries, was able to identify the thieves who broke into her house late at night, who, oddly enough, turned out to be the sons of her husband’s best friends.
Being the wife of the president of one of the well-known cosmetics companies, she, at her personal request, repeatedly subjected her pretty face to all sorts of tests associated with the new release of a cream or lotion, the composition of which she sometimes had to “make” herself from various natural ingredients. And then one fine evening, when at a friendly meeting of secular society this lady unexpectedly quarreled with her beloved and went home without waiting for the festive fireworks, two young people were admitted to a local clinic with a diagnosis of speech loss one and broken both legs of the other.
And this happened because the woman, offended by her husband’s words about the aging of her skin due to the experiments being carried out, decided to prove him wrong. Returning home, she prepared a rough version of another cream-mask for the face and locked herself in the bathroom. After some time, for some reason, the lights were turned off, but the purposeful woman went to the kitchen for a candle and continued her work, without even paying any attention to the flashlight beam flickering on the second floor of her own house.
Finally, having decorated the white “work” on her face with ripe and juicy slices of strawberries, the lady decided to read a little in order to enjoy the time the mask was applied. But suddenly strange sounds came to her ears from the floor above. Assuming that her husband had returned from the party “good” and went straight into the bedroom, she went upstairs.
Hearing the creaking of the floorboards, the thieves hid near the secretary: they knew for sure that no one should be at home - everyone was at the party. But seeing a light flickering in the darkness, they rushed to the open window, overturning a small table with a crash along the way. The woman screamed and grabbed the ax hanging on the carpet at the entrance. The fallen candle rolled to the side, and the tail of its flame lightly touched the bear skin lying on the floor. That, in turn, instantly flared up, illuminating the figure of a woman dressed in a white shirt with a red and white face and a formidable weapon in her hands.
Out of surprise, one thief, who managed to climb through the window, fell down unsuccessfully, and the other simply froze in place, awaiting his death. After the woman recognized a man she knew in the guy standing by the window, she did not call the police and immediately called an ambulance to help his friend. But, as it turned out later, medical assistance was useful to the two of them - after all, these strawberries are a terrible thing!
As a cosmetic product, strawberries relieve fatigue and tension, giving facial skin a fresh and healthy look. Many girls, who have been embarrassed by the appearance of freckles at certain times of the year since childhood, used strawberries to “destroy” “sunbeams” on their faces. And this method quickly spread among the “fighters” for a clean and pleasant face.
But in order to use strawberries in food, cosmetic or medicinal applications, you need to know the methods of properly growing, harvesting, storing them and constantly monitor the emerging changes associated with characteristic diseases of the crop during the development of the plant, and also learn how to deal with various types pests.
The most common pests of strawberries are insects such as flower beetles, strawberry mites and slugs.
The flower beetle (or, as it is otherwise called, the strawberry-raspberry weevil) infests strawberries during their flowering and hides on the weeds growing nearby. If you notice that strawberry buds that have withered or fallen at the moment of color are gnawed near the stalks, then you can immediately draw the conclusion: a flower beetle has been at work here.
You can fight it only by natural collection, shaking the beetles onto a damp piece of sheet and destroying the weeds at the same time. By the way, the appearance of a beetle can be avoided by “maintaining” a decent planting distance between strawberries and raspberries.
Slugs, which breed in a humid environment, eat away the pulp of strawberries in small pits and thereby spoil the ripened fruits.
It is very easy to catch such pests. To do this, it is enough to create favorable living conditions for them: lay out ordinary handkerchiefs, generously moistened with water, or wet bunches of grass among the strawberry bushes, and then check the “traps” from time to time. The slugs caught on the “hook” are destroyed naturally, and the remaining pests among the plantation strawberry thickets are found by looking at the earthen lumps in sunny or hot weather - they hide in the shade or burrow into the surface of the slug and soil.
It will be more difficult with strawberry (or strawberry) mites. There is no point in “catching” him - he is too small and inconspicuous. It feeds on the sap of the plant's leaves, after which they become wrinkled and spotted brown. This immediately affects the natural growth of strawberries and the quality of the berries. In addition, the fruits become significantly smaller in size.
The home of the strawberry mite is the base of the leaf petioles (in winter) and the leaves themselves on the back side (in spring). But you can fight him - he’s not so elusive!
To do this, it is necessary to thoroughly treat the strawberry plantation with an infusion of garlic and onions or a colloidal solution of sulfur powder with water: 5 liters warm water- 30 g of powder. If the mite's visits are repeated, then after harvesting it is necessary to resort to rejuvenation of the strawberries and completely cut off the entire surface part of the plant, then burn the leaves and stems.
The strawberry diseases that most often affect the plant are gray rot and leaf spot.
The first of them appears due to improper handling of the plant and improper care for it. The presence of a large amount of moisture and an oversaturation of nitrogen and organic fertilizers, which must be limited, leads to the appearance of a gray fluffy coating on the surface of the leaves.
Leaf spot is a multi-species fungal disease that causes plant leaves to die. To avoid this, it is necessary to carry out the last operations, as when detecting a strawberry mite, only after “cutting” the plantation, spray all the cuttings remaining from the plant with a liquid consisting of a mixture: 150 g of quicklime, the same amount of copper sulfate and 5 liters of water.
But to ensure that these troubles never happen, you need to keep an eye on the strawberries. So follow the advice of experts before you invent your own strawberry production methods.