Late blight ranks first among dangerous tomato diseases. To prevent the harmful fungus from destroying the plantings, the immunity of the crop should be increased and attention should be paid to prevention.
Article outline
What is late blight
The causative agent of the disease affects all aboveground part tomatoes. Fungal spores overwinter on tubers and bushes that remain in the soil after last year's harvest. They penetrate plants when favorable conditions. For rapid mycelial growth, high humidity and low temperature are required.
On unripe tomatoes, a dark brown spot forms, which over time spreads over the entire surface of the fruit. Affected areas of the leaf become discolored and wither. Then this part of the leaf turns into a solid dark spot.
Weeping spots form on the stems and quickly increase in size. The side shoots die off completely. The inflorescences turn black and dry out. The danger of the disease is that in the early stages it is asymptomatic. Dry and hot weather can stop its development.
Prevention of tomatoes from late blight
Since the disease is difficult to treat, all attention should be paid to measures to prevent infection. In autumn, dried plants and tubers are removed from the beds, and the soil itself is well loosened.
To improve the soil use: mustard, rapeseed, rapeseed. Their root secretions prevent the development of many diseases. Green manures are suitable for all types of soil and are highly durable. They are planted in September and plowed in October.
In the spring, before planting seedlings, the soil can be disinfected. The summer resident must choose how to treat the soil. These can be special chemicals or a solution of potassium permanganate. You should wait two weeks after the spill and only then start planting.
The disease develops well in soils with high nitrogen content. To prevent late blight, fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus are systematically applied. They are great for boosting immunity.
Early varieties are less susceptible to disease. Hybrid low-growing varieties are also distinguished by their vitality. All of them bear large fruits without additional processing. Famous varietal tomatoes:
- "Tatiana";
- "Oak";
- "Cardinal"
- "De Barao";
- "Orange miracle".
Indoor soil needs sanitary treatment. The soil in the greenhouse is cleared of the remains of last year's crops and weeds, and the structure itself is washed well. To disinfect the premises, use a solution of biological products or.
As soon as the first ovaries appear on the tomatoes, it is necessary to remove lower leaves. From the beginning of August, flowers and brushes are picked off at the top of the plant. To stimulate ripening, in mid-August the bushes are watered with a special composition. Forty drops of iodine and a tablespoon of potassium chloride are diluted in a bucket of water. Iodine saves against late blight, increasing the resistance of tomatoes.
Biological preparations for late blight
Special bacteria-based products have proven themselves in the fight against late blight. The unique composition destroys pathogenic soil infections and fungi and restores infected plant tissue.
The working solution disinfects the soil and envelops vegetable crops with a protective film consisting of positive microorganisms. After applying the preparations, the plants become stronger and produce more yield.
Biological remedies for late blight work best during the growing season. Regular spraying with aqueous solutions prevents the appearance of mobile zoospores with drops of moisture from plant to plant. The interval between preventive sprayings is 14 days. At the initial stage of the disease, this period is reduced to five days.
The most popular biological drugs are.
Fitosporin
The product is available in the form of powder, water-soluble liquid and thick paste. Fitosporin is effective for both prevention and treatment. Treat both sides of the leaf, pouring the bush well on all sides. You can add it to the soil before planting young plants. Two treatments are carried out per season: during the growing season and two weeks after it. 
Alirin-B
You can use tablets or powder. The drug can reduce soil toxicity. You can spray the tomatoes or apply the working solution at the root. It is advisable to add adhesive to the sprayer. 
Gamair
The biological fungicide has a wide range of applications and is suitable for vegetable crops, indoor flowers. For preventive purposes, the consumption rate is halved. The product combines well with stimulants and insecticides. The working solution of biological products is used on the day of preparation and cannot be stored. 
Chemicals for processing tomatoes
Treatment of tomatoes against late blight with systemic fungicides is necessary in advanced forms of the disease. Inorganic preparations contain nickel, iron, copper, potassium and other metals. Spores of pathogenic fungi adsorb these elements and die as a result.
Copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture
The most famous inorganic fungicide is copper sulfate. To prepare the working solution, you need to take 20 g of powder and 500 ml of water. The mother liquor is poured into a ten-liter non-metallic bucket. In order for the product to stick better to the leaves, an adhesive is added to the working liquid: soap or shampoo.
The first treatment is carried out a week after planting tomatoes in the ground. A second spraying is required if an open disease was detected on the bushes.
It has a gentle effect on plants. You need to take 300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of slaked lime. These substances are carefully dissolved in a bucket of water. You need to let the working fluid sit for several hours.
Both drugs begin to act actively 2 hours after spraying. The protective effect lasts for two weeks. Rain washes the product off the foliage, but re-treatment cannot be carried out, since excess copper accumulates in the ground.
Fungicide Hom
Copper-containing has a contact and systemic-local effect. The drug is not phytotoxic and completely safe for environment. The wettable powder is diluted in water based on the consumption rates indicated on the pack. “Hom” destroys late blight at all stages of development.
The first spraying is carried out during the growing season. If it rains after this, spraying can be repeated two weeks later. The last treatment is carried out no later than 20 days before harvest. The fungicide is used three times per season, the protective effects last for a month.
Fungicide Ordan
The contact-systemic drug “Ordan” has proven itself well in the fight against various diseases. The greatest effect is achieved with preventive treatment. The active substance disrupts mineralization processes, stopping the development of fungi. The fungicide does not pose a threat to cultivated plants. Does not cause infection resistance.
- When working with any chemical, precautions should be taken. The treatment is carried out in protective clothing. After spraying, wash hands thoroughly with soap. Remaining working fluid must not be poured into bodies of water.
- Crops cannot be processed while bees are in flight. If the liquid is swallowed, induce vomiting and drink activated charcoal. If symptoms persist, seek medical attention.
Traditional methods of treating late blight on tomatoes
Folk remedies are cheap and accessible. Every summer resident knows a unique recipe that can destroy pathogenic fungi.
200 grams of garlic, crushed into pulp, add a tablespoon mustard powder and fill with two liters of water. The mixture is allowed to brew for 24 hours. After this, it is filtered and poured into a bucket of water. Treatment is carried out two weeks after planting the bushes in the ground. Spraying can be done once every 10 days.
Ash treatments have proven themselves to be excellent. Three sprayings are carried out during the season: as soon as the seedlings take root, before flowering, immediately after the formation of ovaries. Half a bucket of ash is dissolved in ten liters of water. The substance is allowed to brew for 3 days. Then it is brought to a volume of 30 liters and the adhesive is added.
An antimicrobial drug called Metronidazole is included in the list of vital necessary medications. Except medicinal properties, it is capable of destroying late blight. One tablet is dissolved in a liter of water. Spraying is done once every two weeks. Metronidazole has an analogue, Trichopolum. This medicine is much cheaper, it is more profitable for them to carry out the work.
Having discovered signs of late blight on his site, every gardener begins to sound the alarm. In the article we will talk about everything related to the disease and how to combat late blight on tomatoes in the greenhouse and in open ground.
What is late blight: causes and signs of the disease
If you have not encountered late blight and do not know what it is, then most likely you have not tried growing tomatoes in your garden. Late blight is the most dangerous disease of this plant, which is caused by the fungus late blight, translated from English as “plant eater”. With its rapid development, it can destroy a tomato crop in just a few days.
Causes of late blight
This infection first affects potatoes and then spreads to tomatoes. Therefore, one of the reasons for their infection is their close proximity to potatoes. Infection also occurs due to high humidity, low or sudden temperature changes, lack of sunlight, thickened planting tomato bushes and due to excess nitrogen.
You can notice the appearance of late blight on plants in August and July. At this time, the day is still hot, the night is already cold, and in the morning there is a lot of dew, the evaporation of which occurs slowly, especially from densely planted bushes. This moment is the best for the development of late blight.
Signs of late blight on tomatoes
At the first signs of late blight on tomatoes, black spots first form on the leaves, then the fruits suffer, and then the stem is affected. Black spots on the leaves in the rain become covered with a light oil coating - this is a fungus. Tomato inflorescences turn yellow very quickly, then turn black and fall off. The fruits become covered with black-brown marks, which soften over time. The stem is covered with uneven black spots. The disease quickly suppresses the bush, which subsequently leads to the death of the plant. 
Phytophthora: how to properly process tomatoes in open ground
Tomatoes grown in open ground are most susceptible to this disease. And therefore, in order not to encounter this problem, it is necessary to carry out mandatory prevention.
Disease Prevention
Let's figure out how to protect tomatoes from late blight. To avoid running into her in your garden, the following rules must be adhered to:
- The infection affects young bushes due to untreated soil, so be sure to remove weeds from the garden bed and do not plant tomatoes after potatoes and other crops that are also susceptible to late blight.
- Do not place bushes very close to each other, as in a wet year this will provoke the development of late blight.
- Tomatoes should only be watered at the roots, as water on the leaves can cause disease.
- A place for growing tomatoes should be well lit.
- Do not overdo the amount of nitrogen fertilizer applied.
Treatment of tomatoes
If you couldn’t prevent the disease, you need to know how to deal with late blight on tomatoes. It is completely impossible to get rid of it, since the disease spreads from bush to bush and appears on several plants at once. 
The first thing to do in this situation is to isolate the affected bushes from healthy ones. The correct thing to do would be to pull them out by the roots and burn them immediately to prevent spread. If late blight has affected a large number of bushes, then chemical active substances will be needed.
For late blight of tomatoes, treatment is carried out with drugs in powder form, which are diluted with water and sprayed on the plants. The most effective of them are considered boric acid, "Gamair", "Fitosporin".
How to protect tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse
Stagnant air and moisture evaporation are extreme conditions for growing tomatoes in a greenhouse. In this room, although plants are less often affected by diseases (since there is no direct source of infection), if this happens, then their spread is more intense. To prevent tomatoes from being affected by late blight, greenhouses should be regularly ventilated and the bushes should be watered rarely, but a lot.
Did you know? To prevent tomatoes from getting sick, preventive measures must be carried out even before sowing, treating the seeds with a warm solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes.
Spraying for prevention
A very important question is how to spray tomatoes against late blight, since an abundance of chemicals can make the fruits poisonous and unsuitable for consumption. In addition, during treatments, the bushes themselves can be destroyed, causing rot on them. In order not to harm the plant, you need to know how to spray tomatoes against diseases.
As a preventative measure, it is necessary to water the tomatoes with a solution of copper sulfate a week after planting. Then, after another five days, it is necessary to treat the bushes with horsetail decoction, after which the leaves are sprayed with potassium iodide diluted with water. And after another five days, the plants are treated with Epin.
For preventive treatment, a solution of 2 liters of acid whey, a glass of ash and one spoon of honey per bucket of water is also suitable. The bushes are sprayed with this solution every week. Most favorable time For all procedures, the first half of the day is considered.
In order to avoid the development of late blight in greenhouses, it is necessary to remove dust and cobwebs and monitor the cleanliness of the premises.
Treatment of late blight on tomatoes
If late blight appears on tomatoes, then for many gardeners the pressing question becomes how to deal with this scourge. Late blight can be treated in two ways:
- using chemical active substances;
- using folk remedies.
Important! When treating late blight on tomatoes, they are used together with plant food that strengthens their immune system.
Late blight on tomatoes is treated with such chemicals as “Alirin-B”, “Gamair”, “Baikal EM-1”. Another effective remedy is Bordeaux mixture.
How to deal with late blight using traditional methods
Let's list the most common ones folk remedies for late blight on tomatoes:
- Tincture of garlic with potassium permanganate. You will need 100 g of garlic minced in a meat grinder, which is poured with a glass of water and left for 24 hours. After a day, filter and dilute with 10 liters of water and 1 g of potassium permanganate. You need to spray the bushes once every two weeks.
- Milk serum. In a 1:1 ratio, the whey is diluted with water and the tomatoes are treated daily from July.
- Ash. Seven days after planting and when fruit sets, ash is sprayed between the rows before watering.
- Tincture made from rotten straw or hay. You need to fill 1 kg of hay with 10 liters of water, add a handful of urea and leave for 3-4 days. After a while, strain and process the bushes after 1.5-2 weeks.
- Iodine with milk. Take 10 liters of water, 1 liter of low-fat milk, 15 drops of iodine, mix everything and treat the bushes with the resulting solution once every two weeks.
- Salt. For one glass of salt, take a bucket of water and process large green fruits once a month.
- Copper sulfate solution. Add 2 tbsp to a ten-liter bucket of water. l. copper sulfate and water the plant with the resulting solution.
- Yeast. For 10 liters of water you will need 100 g of yeast. The plant is treated when late blight appears.
- Wrapping the roots of seedlings with copper wire before planting or piercing the stems of tomatoes. It is necessary to calcinate the copper wire and cut it into pieces of 4 cm and then pierce the stem at a distance of 10 cm from the surface of the ground, insert the wire and bend its ends down.
Did you know? Copper sulfate can help get rid of late blight, but it is very dangerous for the leaves. Drops of the solution may burn the plant, after which it may die.
Tomato varieties resistant to late blight
Unfortunately, there are no tomato varieties that are completely resistant to late blight. Despite their wide variety, there are less and more resistant to this disease tomatoes.
For growing in greenhouse conditions Determinate varieties are more suitable. They are short, early ripening and produce a good harvest.
Determinate varieties tomatoes:
Indeterminate varieties are characterized by tall growth and large fruits. They can be grown both in greenhouses and in open ground. A prerequisite for their normal development is stepsoning. Important! When growing indeterminate varieties in your garden, you should tie them to high stands, since the large weight of the tomatoes can cause the main stem to break.
More resistant varieties of indeterminate species are:
Prevention of late blight
Helps protect tomatoes from late blight proper care after them. Care is carried out depending on the type of development, which, in turn, is divided into generative and vegetative.
At vegetative way When grown, plants develop quickly, but fruits form slowly. And due to the late fruit formation, especially in rainy summers, late blight will not keep you waiting. And to prevent this, you need to carry out stepsoning. This will ensure improved air circulation and accelerate fruit growth.
With the generative method, active fruiting occurs. A large number of tomatoes on a bush leads to a stressed state of the plant, which reduces its resistance. 
To prevent the appearance of late blight, it is necessary to regulate the number of tomatoes on the bush. In unfavorable times, it is better to reduce the number of fruits and remove peripheral buds. This will ensure rapid ripening and increase the plant’s resistance to disease. To prevent late blight from appearing in rainy weather, you can harvest even unripe crops, this will help the plant fight the disease.
How to preserve and eat affected tomatoes
Tomatoes that have already been overtaken by late blight can be preserved by heat treatment. To do this, you need to pour water at a temperature of 60 °C into a basin and place the affected fruits in it. Be careful: the tomatoes should be warmed through, not cooked. When the water cools, you need to add new water until the tomatoes are completely warmed up. After the water procedure, the tomatoes are dried and placed in a dark place or on a windowsill to ripen. During heating, the late blight spores die, and then the tomatoes can be eaten. They can also be canned. If the fruits are damaged until they are completely blackened, heat exposure will not help, and they will have to be disposed of.
None of the methods can guarantee 100% elimination of late blight. However, it is within your power to prevent the occurrence of the disease and fight tomato late blight. To do this, you need to follow all the above recommendations, carry out preventive measures, and then you will get a large harvest of healthy tomatoes.
Was this article helpful?
Thank you for your opinion!
Write in the comments what questions you have not received an answer to, we will definitely respond!
661
once already
helped
Late blight on tomatoes is one of the most common and dangerous diseases. The disease spreads instantly throughout the plant and, if you do not know how to combat late blight with folk remedies or chemicals, the entire harvest may be lost.
Late blight is a fungal spore that reproduces well when high humidity, in cloudy and rainy weather. Spots appear along the lower part of the plant, leaves and branches. Gradually, spots form on the tomatoes themselves. Even tomatoes that look healthy, but were picked from a diseased bush, change after a couple of days and become brown with spots.
Late blight can be recognized by several signs:
- the formation of small inclusions throughout the plant;
- noticeable wilting of plants, decreased growth;
- leaves dry out and look limp;
- the appearance of a fluffy coating on the back of the leaves.
The disease is especially evident in late spring and until mid-summer. There can be many reasons for the occurrence of late blight:
- Joint planting of tomatoes with an infected crop in the neighborhood.
- Neglecting spring preventative treatment of soil and plants with fungicide.
- There is an excess of nitrogen in the soil.
- Lack of minerals (calcium, magnesium, potassium) in the soil.
Attention! The disease is aggravated by low ambient temperature and lack of sun.
Traditional methods of combating late blight on tomatoes
Traditional methods have still not lost their relevance. Most gardeners continue to use them to treat late blight. Unlike drugs with chemical composition, poisons and toxic compounds are not used to make folk remedies. All additives have a natural composition, and are not inferior in effectiveness to powders. Below are the most effective remedies for getting rid of late blight.
Ash solution
The ash contains a large amount of organic matter (metals and their derivative compounds), so the substance not only fights fungal spores, but is also of great value for the tomatoes themselves. In addition to nutrition, ash has a drying effect and prevents the spread of fungus over the surface of plants. Fertilizer should be diluted as follows:
- a bucket of cool water;
- 2 cups of ash.
Mix the powder with water and leave for 2 days, then pour the solution into a spray bottle and irrigate the plants in the first half of the day. Ash treatment is carried out for 3-4 weeks with an interval of 1 time every 5-7 days.
Garlic tincture
A well-known vegetable that kills any infection as in human body, and on the plant – it’s garlic. It prevents the proliferation of pathogenic microflora and displaces it from tomatoes. You need to use garlic tincture. Grind one head and infuse it in 10 liters of water. The mixture is sprayed on affected and healthy leaves and shoots of the vegetable. Treatment is carried out once a week for 3-4 weeks.
Important! For greater effectiveness, add 4-5 crystals of potassium permanganate to the garlic tincture.
Iodine
An iodine solution helps effectively fight fungus. It is applied to the leaves, stem and other areas for several weeks. Treatment frequency: 1 time every 5-7 days. In order to properly dilute the solution, you will need:
- 10 drops of iodine;
- 10 liters of water.
Stir the iodine until the solution is homogeneous and begin processing immediately. Spraying is carried out from top to bottom so that the tincture also gets on the lower leaves.
Saline solution
Once on the leaves, the saline solution instantly forms a protective film on them. It protects the plant from late blight. This remedy is suitable for preventing the disease. Prepare a mixture consisting of:
- 1/2 cup salt;
- 10 liters of water.
Irrigate the plants with a hose and repeat irrigation after 10 days. Two treatments will be enough to protect the crop from fungus.
Yeast
- 1 packet of yeast;
- tbsp Sahara;
- 3-liter jar filled with warm water.
The fertilizer is allowed to brew for 2 hours, and then it is watered under the bush with a consumption rate per bush of at least 1 liter. For better results, the solution can be used to irrigate seedlings.
Important! During the entire growing period, the number of feedings should not exceed 3 times.
Horsetail
Horsetail helps get rid of fungal infections and improves the immune qualities of tomato seedlings. Mostly a decoction or infusion of horsetail is used. To prepare it, you need to take 100 grams of the dried plant and boil it in a liter of water for half an hour. The resulting concentrate is diluted with water in a fivefold volume and sprayed from a hose or spray bottle over the entire height of the plants at intervals of 1 time every 7 days for 2 weeks.
Tinder fungus
Many experienced gardeners speak positively about the medicinal infusion of the mushroom. It helps prevent infection of healthy plants and prevents late blight from progressing. Prepare the product:
- 100 grams of chopped mushroom;
- 1 liter of water.
Bring the water to a boil and brew the mushroom in it. Then the solution is allowed to cool, and then the plants are pollinated with it for 3-4 days in a row. The treatment is repeated after a week.
Copper
Copper wire has long been a reliable protection against fungus and other viral diseases. This method has been used for decades and gives visible results. The stem of the plant is pierced with wire and left. When interacting with plant juice, copper oxide is formed - a substance that prevents fungal diseases and leads to their death.
It is necessary to keep the wire in the stem for no more than a day, then it is removed and thrown away. Repeat the procedure only after 10-14 days. In this case, choose a different place on the stem so as not to injure the plant.
Straw
Another folk way for the treatment of late blight - spraying seedlings with an infusion of hay. Mix in 10 liters of water:
- 20 g urea;
- 1 kg of hay.
Let the solution brew for 4-5 days, and then spray it on the shoots, leaves and stem. You can treat hay with infusion once every 10 days.
Agrotechnical techniques
In addition to treatment with folk remedies, you can try the correct agricultural technology when treating the disease. It consists of:
- In compliance with crop rotation: you need to replant tomatoes to a new place at least once every 3-4 years.
- In compliance with watering. Do not increase the rate and water in rainy or cloudy weather.
- Maintaining landing distance. When planting seedlings on one square meter No more than 4 plants should be located in the soil.
- In normalizing soil pH. In case of excessive acidification of the soil, peat or humus is used to dilute the soil.
- To prevent excessive moisture from getting on the leaves. It is not recommended to irrigate tomatoes with a hose in the evening, as the water does not have time to dry.
Late blight cannot be cured from infected shoots, but you can make sure that the disease stops progressing and does not spread to healthy bushes; for this, any of the above treatments are used. All products can also be used for preventive measures; they will protect the seedlings, so you won’t have to deal with the fungus.
Subscribe to the channel in Yandex.Zen! Click "Subscribe to channel" to read the site in the Yandex feed
- a serious disease that can affect a tomato crop at any stage of its development, the name of the disease is translated as “destroying plants,” and it fully justifies itself.
On early stage When the disease appears, it is not immediately noticeable; in the future, its rapid development is difficult to stop, so for summer residents and gardeners the pressing question remains: what effective means apply against late blight on tomatoes so that the crop does not die completely.
Reasons that allow late blight to develop
The first of the garden plants to get sick is if tomatoes grow nearby, in neighboring beds, they will inevitably get sick next, as soon as favorable conditions are created:
- low temperature;
- high air humidity;
- large differences in night and day temperatures;
- lack of sunlight and heating;
- thickened plantings;
- high doses of nitrogen in the soil;
- the fall of heavy dew, which does not dry out on the plants for a long time, aggravates the situation, the disease develops faster.
Fungal spores, transmitted through infected potatoes, persist in the soil, on garden tools, on, fall on tomatoes and infect the plants.
What means to protect tomatoes from this scourge and when to start the fight so that help is provided to the plants in a timely manner?
Processing tomatoes in seedlings
It is simply necessary to carry out preventive treatment of tomatoes from seedling age to strengthen the immune system. This allows plants to grow strong and healthy, they have more strength to resist diseases in the future, in particular late blight.
It is not possible to find one effective remedy for late blight on tomatoes; a complex effect on the fungal spores is necessary.
Experienced gardeners propose a scheme for carrying out protective measures:
The last treatment is carried out 20 days before harvest, during which time the preparations have time to decompose and have no harmful effects on the human body.
The drugs penetrate the plants through the stomata on the underside of the leaves, protection is carried out from the inside for 15-20 days: they kill fungal spores and suppress the development of the disease.
Folk effective methods of combating late blight
They are famous for the fact that their treatment is not dangerous for humans, since no chemical products are used, they can be used for medicinal purposes for plants unlimited amount once.
Garlic infusion
– prepared from 200 g of crushed manganese on the tip of a knife, 10 l warm water. Combine all ingredients, cover with a lid, and let steep for a day. Now you can treat plants at intervals of 10 days.
Iodine solution - at initial signs diseases, dissolve a teaspoon of iodine (5 ml) in 10 liters of water, and spray the plants with the resulting solution. The remaining liquid can be stored in dark place until the next treatment in 2 weeks.
Infusion of rotting hay – 1 kg of rotten hay is poured into a bucket of water, 15-20 g of urea is added, stirred until dissolved and allowed to brew for 3-4 days. Then the infusion is filtered and used every 1.5-2 weeks.
Milk serum – when sprayed onto the leaves, it covers them with a film through which it is difficult for fungal spores to penetrate into the plant. You can get a solution by mixing a liter of whey with a liter of water. An excellent addition to the solution would be phytosporin, which is an antifungal drug. Treatment of tomatoes with serum can be carried out after each rain to renew the protective film on the leaves and trunks of plants.
Use of biological and medicinal insecticides against photoblight
Biological products contain a whole complex of microorganisms that provide effective prevention and medicinal effects on plants. “Fitophtorin”, “Baktofit”, “Fitosporin M”, “Planzir”
“have long proven their ability to reduce the development of the disease, but the best results from their use are achieved precisely in their preventive effect.
Medicine " Trichopolum" , sold in any pharmacy, is safe for plants with antibacterial and antimicrobial effects. Metranidazole, which is part of the drug, copes well with late blight on tomatoes.
Chemicals against late blight
There are many such drugs; the most effective remedy for late blight on tomatoes is difficult to determine, since their principle of action is identical:
- Ridomil Gold;
- Acrobat MC;
- Profit Gold;
- Metalaxyl, others.
These are effective means, but they must be alternated so as not to cause addiction in the pathogens, after which they will simply be useless.
Folk remedies to combat late blight
An experienced gardener tells how to prepare various solutions to combat late blight on tomatoes: