The principle of using dowels is the same. First, the mounting location is outlined. Then, using a punch of the required diameter, a hole with the required diameter and depth is made. Next, excess dust is blown out, the dowel is inserted and the fastening element is tightened using a screwdriver or screwdriver.
Dowels are produced for multi-hollow, hollow, layered and massive (solid) walls. They are used when the free end of the screw is inaccessible to the installation tool. Dowels for hollow walls have an anchoring principle; for massive ones, they have an expanding principle.
Varieties
Expandable dowels consist of a metal sleeve with chuck parts that open during the divergence of the rod, or of a nylon deformable sleeve. Anchor dowels are a very technically tricky device. In some cases, the end of a nylon cartridge may expand when screwing the fastening rod, in others, due to transverse notches, it turns into a locking figure resembling a diamond.
There are steel dowels that connect the massive foundation shoes to the supporting parts of the steel parts. When used, holes are made in the very top part of a concrete shoe using a drill and precise markings, into which all-metal dowels are then installed. With this method of use, the total weight of the connecting parts is literally a hundredth of the metal consumption of traditional material.
Works in the house
Regarding repair work in houses, especially modern ones, the walls and ceilings of which are made of reinforced concrete structures, dowels are simply irreplaceable here. All fastening operations with walls and ceilings are carried out with their help. For proper use, you need to choose the right type of dowel. To do this, as a rule, the required load is calculated and the required thickness of the fastening structure is examined.
If the hole is located horizontally, that is, when the screw is screwed in at the cut, dowels with a diameter of 8-10 millimeters are used. They are buried 40-50 millimeters into a brick or concrete wall. Most often, this principle is used when installing kitchen cabinets, bookshelves, and so on. For products that require more durable fastening (for example, wall bars), you can use dowels that allow you to deepen the screw by 90-100 millimeters.
When the fastening is positioned vertically, the load will act downward, so it is better to choose dowels that have spacer wings and transverse notches. It is important that the hole fully matches the diameter of the dowel. This is determined by ease of entry. The dowel must be driven in with a certain force with a hammer.
This principle is used when installing suspended ceilings and other volumetric objects in a suspended state. The recommended drilling depth is 40-50 millimeters. For greater reliability, the hole for the dowel is lubricated with PVA glue. After hammering, wait a day for the glue to set. However, if you choose the right type and thickness of the dowel, such measures will be unnecessary.
A dowel-nail is a type of special fastening element, which is a nail that is narrowed to a point and equipped with a conical thread. The dowel-nail consists of a plastic spacer part equipped with a special cuff, thanks to which the dowel does not fall completely into the hole.
When working with such a nail, it is driven into the spacer part, which, when the nail is deepened into it, expands and is securely fixed in the hole, fixing the nail itself. Some types of dowel nails are equipped with a slotted head, which allows you to screw them in with a screwdriver, but driving them in with a hammer is still more convenient and efficient.
There are several types of dowel nails:
Fungus. The end of its plastic spacer is rounded, giving it a mushroom-like appearance. This product provides significant downforce.
Hidden nail. It is used in cases where it is necessary to drive a nail flush with the wall.
Characteristics of dowel nails
The standard length of products varies in the range of 40-140 mm, with length increments of 20 mm.
The standard cross-section of a nail is within 5-7 millimeters.
The diameter of the mounting hole for the nail is 6-10 mm.
The thickness of the material into which the dowel nail is driven should be in the range of 10-100 mm.
Nails are made of high quality galvanized steel. The plastic part is made of polymers: polyamide, polypropylene and others; there are also spacer parts made of steel and other metals.
Types of dowel-nails
Based on the material of the spacer part, nails are divided into plastic and metal. They are classified much more widely according to their purpose and form.
The main types of such products:
Nails for use with a special mounting gun;
An ordinary, hand-driven nail, which is most often used in construction work;
Nail for working with drywall;
A nail of the “butterfly” variety, which gives the most durable connection due to the fact that the opening end of the plastic part is in the shape of “wings” on the back side of the hole.
Nails can be equipped with either a smooth head or a slot, which allows them to be tightened with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Slotted nails can be reusable and can be simply dismantled.
Application of dowel nails
Such nails find their use wherever it is necessary to create a strong fastening, as well as in cases where it is necessary to quickly create a reliable connection without the need to accurately mark the fastening site. Thermal insulation, cladding, drywall, and metal structures are attached to various types of solid foundations using dowel nails.
Installation features when working with dowel-nails
When working with brickwork, you need to take into account that the brick may be hollow. Therefore, you need to carefully select a place for the dowel, carefully drill a hole at low speed, then insert the dowel into it and drive a nail.
Working with concrete walls is similar, but here you no longer need to maintain a low drilling speed when making a hole. Plasterboard bases require special care due to their low ability to bear loads. First, a hole is made in the plasterboard base, then a plastic spacer is inserted into it and a dowel nail is screwed into it.
In this case, it is not advisable to hammer the fasteners by force using a hammer. No less caution and attentiveness must be observed when connecting ceramic and facing tiles with nails; before drilling, you must first mark the place with a glass cutter, making a hole, and only after that start drilling slowly and carefully.
Installation using dowel-nails VIDEO
06.08.19
The similarity of fastening techniques, materials and principles of fixing fasteners in the base with the virtual absence of a clear formalization of dowels led to confusion not only in terminology, but also in the very concept of anchor (from German Anker - anchor) fastenings with dowels (German Dübel - dowel, tenon).
- Plastic, metal dowel nail, dowel nails for mounting guns and anchors.
Types of dowels
Thus, in our country, GOST 28456-90 “Construction and installation expansion dowels”, GOST 26998-86, as well as GOST 27320-87 and GOST 28457-90, which defined expansion dowels-sleeves and dowels- studs with basic characteristics and installation principles. Although in fact the dowels-studs in the submission of the standard were nothing more than expansion mechanical anchors (see the figure of the dowels of the studs of the standard and expansion mechanical anchors in this material) (link to Anchors), and the dowels are bushings according to the ETAG regulations of the European Organization for Technical Assessment in the field of construction products EOTA (ETAG 020 parts 1 – 5, as well as ETAG 014 and GOST R “Disc anchors..”) are fully consistent with plastic anchors for use in lightweight concrete, solid masonry materials, hollow or perforated masonry, autoclaved aerated concrete, etc. .d.
Rice. Dowel rods according to GOST 28457-90.
Along with this, if we accept that a dowel is a plastic spacer inserted into the base complete with a screw, a self-tapping screw (see more details about screws and self-tapping screws here) (link to self-tapping screws), then dowels do not fit well into the general definition of dowels nails, both sets of sleeves with club or screw nails, and dowel nails with a washer for mounting guns (or driving in by hand).
Rice. Dowels and nails with washer for mounting guns.
The great similarity between anchor and dowel fastenings is determined by the similar principle of fixing the fastening element in the base - spacer, thrust, and also in the latest developments of leading manufacturers and chemical.
Video: Dowels with chemical fixation Fill & Fix from fischer Deutschland Vertriebs GmbH.
Modern international dowel concept.
The first plastic double-spaced nylon dowel was developed by Arthur Fischer, the founder and owner of fischer Deutschland Vertriebs GmbH (parent company Unternehmensgruppe fischer) and the idea itself was to fix the fastening element in the base due to the friction created by the dowel in the form of a plug-in sleeve, which is expanded by a screw-in screw (or self-tapping screw). Over time, polyethylene and polypropylene were added to the nylon (polyamide) dowels, then bushings made of non-ferrous or ferrous, but ductile metals; the spacer inserts themselves began to be made as two-, three-, four-spacer ones, with or without a collar, for self-tapping screws, screws and nails.
At the same time, dowels were developed with persistent fixation at the base by folding or twisting a plastic (or metal) sleeve when screwing in a screw/screw, as well as metal dowel nails with a washer for mounting guns or manually hammering into dense wall materials (concrete, brick).
Today, dowels are classified according to material (plastic, metal), area of application (for concrete, hollow wall materials, cellular concrete, plasterboard, frame, etc.), according to the principle of fastening (expansion, thrust, chemical), according to the design of the dowel (two -, three-, four-spacer, with different locking elements, with a nail, self-tapping screw or metal dowel nail), color, etc.
Expansion and universal dowels.
The bulk of dowels produced today are expansion dowels, regardless of the stated names (dowel 6x40 or dowel nail 6 40 with a “mushroom”, dowel nail 6x80 with a countersunk head, dowel nail 6x60 with a mushroom head, dowel nail 6x40 with a cylindrical head, etc.). d.) this is, by design, an insertable two-, three-, four-spacer sleeve made of polymer and a spacer element - a self-tapping screw or a screw, less often a club or screw nail (or a self-tapping screw with a screw notch for driving in). 
A fairly capacious market segment is formed by dowels with a metal spacer sleeve - brass, steel and an expansion screw with a slotted head from Phillips Screw Company PH (Phillips), PZ (Pozidriv) and TX (Torx), or hexagonal "turnkey". 
Such dowels are aimed at fastening communications of engineering systems, furniture, brackets, etc. in various dense materials, but mainly in cellular and lightweight concrete. Universal dowels include persistent ones, fixed in the base (including in plasterboard, chipboard, OSB, aerated concrete, etc.) by creating an external stop when folding or twisting a plastic or metal sleeve (butterfly dowels, etc.). 
Dowels for special purposes.
Special purpose dowels include:
The most interesting and relevant solutions for dowel fastenings for regions with cold climates, where houses are insulated from the outside with ETICS thermal insulation systems for wet facades (or hinged ones), today can be considered the solutions of fischer Deutschland Vertriebs GmbH Dämmstoffdübel FID and Thermax for remote fastening through the insulation layer (see video below ) 
Rice. Dowel fastening systems Dämmstoffdübel FID and Thermax from fischer Deutschland Vertriebs GmbH.
Video: Dämmstoffdübel FID and Thermax dowels for remote fastening through the thermal insulation layer of ETICS systems.
Dowel nails and deciphering their designations of the main brands and brands on the market.
Table. Material, color, sizes and designations of dowel nails from the main market manufacturers.Manufacturer |
Material |
Color |
Diameters (lengths) in mm |
Explanation of symbols in mm |
Fischer |
Polyamide |
5 (30, 35, 36, 40, 45, 50); 6 (35, 40, 42, 55, 60, 70, 80); 8 (40, 45, 57, 60, 75, 80, 100, 120); 10 (100,135, 160,230) |
N 8x80 Z |
|
Hilti |
Polyamide |
4 (20); 5 (20, 25, 30, 35); 6 (25, 30, 35, 40, 50, 55, 65); 8 (25, 40, 50, 60, 70, 90, 110, 130) |
HRS-1 6/10x35 |
|
MUNGO |
Polyamide |
5 (25, 30, 40, 50); 6 (35, 50, 60, 70); 8 (50, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140); 10 (80, 100, 120, 140, |
MNA-Z 6/70 |
|
SORMAT |
Polyamide |
5 (30, 35, 40, 45, 50); 6 (40, 60, 80); |
LYT UK KP 6/80 |
|
KEW |
Polyamide |
light grey, black |
5 (30, 36, 40, 50); |
ND 6x40 S |
TOX (Germany) |
Polyethylene |
light grey, black |
5 (30, 40); 6 (35, 50, 60, 80); 8 (50, 60, 80, 115, 135); 10 (140, 160) |
LSN-SK 6/70 |
NOBEX |
Polyamide |
5 (25, 30, 40, 50); |
TNSM-SV 6x45 |
When choosing a dowel, as a rule, one proceeds from five main parameters: the magnitude and nature of the load on the dowel, the design and material of the base (wall, floor, ceiling), and the type of fastening itself. When it is difficult to determine the weight of the attached object, it is better to take dowels that are designed for a obviously large load.
If the dowels are not equipped with standard screws, screws or special nails, they are selected in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, which are usually set out on the packaging or in separate instructions. Here you should pay attention not only to the diameter of the screw, but also to choose the correct length, taking into account the thickness of the part being fixed.
Now more about some types of dowels.
The most common standard nylon dowels can solve most home problems. They are suitable for any wall and are used with screws with a diameter of 2 to 16 mm.
A hole is drilled in the wall corresponding to the diameter of the dowel, in which it is held with tendrils directed back, and when wedged with a screw, it is “tightly” pressed into the walls of the hole with its large teeth.
Dowels for aerated concrete are also traditional fastening elements. Under such a dowel, a hole is drilled corresponding to the diameter of its core. It is driven into the hole with hammer blows, and at the base it is held in place by spiral ribs and wedging under the action of a screw.
Frame dowels are produced in lengths from 60 to 360 mm. They come in two main types: for solid solid bases and for soft and hollow (slotted) materials. The elongated spacer part ensures that the dowel engages several jumpers in the base with voids at once. Frame dowels are used when fastening window and door frames, as well as sheathing elements through a layer of plaster and thermal insulation.
The so-called distance (adjustment) dowels allow you to secure the sheathing slats under the sheathing at a certain distance from the wall.
They allow you to adjust the position of the sheathing slats relative to the base in the range from 0 to 30 mm during their installation due to the dowel and screw of a special design that are divided into two parts (one for the base, the other for the slats). It is so easy to compensate for all the unevenness of the base.
Universal dowels are interesting because when attaching objects to a hollow base, they “determine” the presence of a hollow space. In the cavity, the dowel bulges and is thus fixed in it. When attached to a solid base of brick or concrete, it expands and comes into close contact with the walls of the hole.
Dowels with spring-loaded folding strips are designed for attaching objects to hollow partitions and false ceilings, for example, for hanging chandeliers. The dowel strips, having passed through the hole into the cavity behind the casing, open under the action of a spring and rest against the inner surface of the casing. They are sold complete with hooks and threaded rods. There are also similar dowels with an asymmetrical falling bar (without a spring).
Metal dowels for hollow thin-walled structures can withstand fairly heavy loads. When the screw is screwed in, the dowel plates bulge in all directions and are pressed against the inner supporting surface.
Nail dowels are designed for quick fastening of baseboards and sheathing slats under sheathing when you need to install a large number of them. The dowel is equipped with a nail that has a “finish” (knurling in the form of reverse cones). The dowel with a nail is inserted into the hole in the wall through the fixed strip. The nail is then simply driven in with a hammer.
To attach mineral wool or rigid foam insulation, a special dowel has been developed, the so-called insulation holder, which is driven into a hole in a concrete or brick wall without a nail or screw.
Dowels for concrete and solid bricks, designed for large (up to several tons) loads, are made of metal and equipped with threaded rods or bolts. These dowels are suitable for attaching sun awnings, garage doors or lifting hoists. It is advisable, for safety reasons, to use metal dowels when installing suspended ceilings, since in the event of a fire the plastic dowels will melt and the ceiling will collapse.
Plastic and metal dowels for soft materials (plasterboard and porous concrete) allow them to be installed without first drilling a hole. Thanks to the tip in the form of a feather drill and large, screw-like threads on the outer surface of the body, the dowel can be easily screwed into the wall with a regular screwdriver.
Injection dowels stand apart from the rest.
A mesh anchor is inserted into the hole. Using a special syringe, a quick-hardening mixture is injected into the dowel through a protective sleeve. When the mixture is pumped, the mesh expands, forming a kind of ball-shaped anchor. To fasten objects to walls made of slotted bricks or blocks, instead of a mesh anchor, you can use an injection anchor without a mesh.
All of the above dowels can be purchased in specialized stores and markets. However, in order not to “miss” with quality, it is better to purchase this product in construction supermarkets, which sell high-quality dowels produced by well-known companies (such as Upat, Fischer, TOX). Fasteners cost differently - from 10-15 rubles for a set of standard dowels to 100 rubles for one metal dowel.
Nikolay RODIONOV
The material was prepared with the assistance of the company "ASS-2"
Provided by Kolan LLC
It is not possible to renovate a house or screw cabinets to the wall without a special fastener, which every man probably has in his toolbox.
For those who live in a wooden house, it is enough to use only nails and a hammer to get a reliable fastening. Thanks to its structure, wood reliably holds a nail and easily allows it to penetrate under hammer blows. This property of wood was used by builders for many years, installing wooden plugs in brick and concrete walls, and then screwing screws into them.
Now this archaism has been replaced by dowels. A dowel is usually called a special factory product for mounting a blind fastening.
What kind of dowels are there?
Polypropylene expansion dowel. It is made of nylon or polypropylene. The expansion dowel is used together with self-tapping screws for fastening into concrete, stone and brick.
Drywall dowel. The drywall dowel is made of metal or plastic. It is used for fastening structures and elements in gypsum fiber and plasterboard sheets or in porous concrete. Requires the use of universal screws and self-tapping screws. Metal dowels of this type can be mounted without first making holes for them. This is achieved due to the fact that their tip is made in the form of a feather drill.
Dowel nail. The dowel-nail is made of polypropylene and nylon, and the nail is made of steel. It is used for quick fastening of metal profiles, slats, windows, guides, baseboards, sheathing, timber, plywood to brick or concrete, cable ducts.
Nylon dowel made from polypropylene and nylon. It is used for fastening together with self-tapping screws dia. 2-16mm into any wall surface. The dowel is held in this hole using specially directed antennae.
Frame dowel made of metal. It is used for fastening door and window frames, as well as for cladding elements through a layer of thermal insulation and plaster. There are two subtypes of this dowel: the first is suitable for working with soft materials, the second - with solid hard materials.
Nylon universal dowel made of polypropylene and nylon. It is used to fasten door and window frames, metal slats, suspended ceilings, sheathing for cladding slabs, and wooden blocks to a surface with a hollow or empty space inside.
Butterfly dowel made of metal. It is designed for fastening into hollow structures that will withstand heavy loads.
Dowel for thermal insulation. This dowel is made of plastic or a plastic base and a metal nail. Designed for attaching polystyrene or mineral fiber insulation to concrete or brick walls. Requires pre-prepared holes in the wall.
How to choose a dowel?
The dowel should be selected depending on its future location and load:
- For horizontal fastening into a brick or concrete wall, it is worth selecting dowels with a mounting depth of 30-50 mm and an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
- To fasten wall bars and exercise equipment, as well as other heavy outdoor objects, choose dowels with a mounting depth of at least 80 mm.
- If the load will act downwards on the dowel (chandeliers, suspended ceilings...), then pay attention to dowels with transverse notches and spacer whiskers.
- When selecting a dowel for an existing hole, strictly ensure that the diameters match; the dowel should not be smaller than the diameter of the hole in which it will be mounted.
Using dowels for repair work, you can prevent the destruction of weak walls in the place where the fasteners support due to the fact that, with its diameter and material, the dowel will act as a softening gasket, and on hard surfaces the dowel will fit tightly to the fastener and help distribute the load evenly.
Steel dowels for hollow materials MOLLY
Steel dowels for hollow materials and plasterboard walls.
Read more...
Metal dowel nail HD
Metal quick-installation dowel-nail for fastening in dense materials. The material of the dowel is ZnAl, the nail is galvanized steel.
Read more...
Universal metal dowel MUD
Galvanized steel (yellow) expansion dowel for various building materials. It can be installed in low-density aerated concrete without drilling a hole.
Read more...
Mounting for thermal insulation IZ
Polypropylene expansion dowel for fastening mineral wool and foam boards.
Read more...
Dowel nails for quick installation SM
Polyethylene expansion dowel for quick installation.
Read more...
Folding spring dowel SPDK
Folding spring dowel for mounting in suspended ceilings.
Read more...
Expansion dowels TNF/W
Polypropylene expansion dowel.
Read more...
Expansion dowel for mounting in plasterboard TT 22
Polypropylene expansion dowel complete with attachment for fastening in plasterboard walls.
Read more...
Self-tapping dowel for mounting in drywall DRIVA SPA
Self-tapping dowel made of ZnAI alloy for fastening in plasterboard walls.
Read more...
Expansion dowels for standard KRH fastenings
Polyethylene expansion dowel.
Read more...
Facade and frame expansion plugs TSX-S
Polyamide (nylon) expansion dowel for hollow (hollow) materials. Galvanized steel screw with hex head.
Read more...
Expansion dowels for standard TCHAPPAI fastenings
Polyethylene four-spaced dowel with a collar, spikes and whiskers for fixation during installation in dense materials.
Read more...
About dowels
Dowel- a fastening element designed for fastening various building structures, insulation, cladding materials to the surface of walls of various types. Dowels are used when the free end of the rod (screw, anchor) is inaccessible to the installation tool. The dowel is driven into the wall or main part, a screw is screwed into it, and the dowel expands and cannot be removed. Today, the dowel is a universal and popular fastener.
Dowels come in different designs and are made from different materials.
All dowels can be divided into two groups:
1. Dowels for monolithic (without voids) bases - have a spacer operating principle.
2. Dowels for hollow bases - have an anchor principle of operation.
Dowel classification:
Standard Nylon Dowels: The anchors are suitable for any wall and can be used with screws ranging from 2mm to 16mm in diameter.
A hole is drilled in the wall corresponding to the diameter of the dowel, in which it is held with tendrils directed back, and when wedged with a screw, it is “tightly” pressed into the walls of the hole with its large teeth.
Dowels for aerated concrete: A hole is drilled under such a dowel corresponding to the diameter of its core. It is driven into the hole with hammer blows, and at the base it is held in place by spiral ribs and wedging under the action of a screw.
Frame dowels: length from 60 to 360 mm. There are two main types - for solid solid bases and for soft and hollow (slotted) materials. The elongated spacer part ensures that the dowel engages several jumpers in the base with voids at once. They are used for fastening window and door frames, as well as cladding elements through a layer of plaster and thermal insulation.
Distance dowels (adjusting): secure the sheathing slats under the sheathing at some distance from the wall. They allow you to adjust the position of the sheathing slats relative to the base in the range from 0 to 30 mm during their installation due to the dowel and screw of a special design that are divided into two parts (one for the base, the other for the slats).
Universal: when attaching objects to a hollow base, they “determine” the presence of a hollow space. In the cavity, the dowel bulges and is thus fixed in it. When attached to a solid base of brick or concrete, it expands and comes into close contact with the walls of the hole. Dowels with spring-loaded folding strips: designed for attaching objects to hollow partitions and false ceilings, for example, for hanging chandeliers. The dowel strips, having passed through the hole into the cavity behind the casing, open under the action of a spring and rest against the inner surface of the casing.
Metal: for hollow thin-walled structures they can withstand quite heavy loads.
When the screw is screwed in, the dowel plates bulge in all directions and are pressed against the inner supporting surface.
Nail dowels: designed for quick fastening of baseboards and sheathing slats under sheathing when you need to install a large number of them. They are equipped with a nail that has a “jarch” (knurling in the form of reverse cones). The dowel with a nail is inserted into the hole in the wall through the fixed strip. The nail is driven in with a hammer.
Insulation holders: for attaching mineral wool or rigid foam insulation. It is driven into a hole in a concrete or brick wall without a nail or screw.
Dowels for concrete and solid bricks: designed for large (up to several tons) loads, made of metal and equipped with threaded rods or bolts. Suitable for attaching sun awnings, garage doors or lifting hoists. Plastic and metal: for soft materials (plasterboard and porous concrete).
What is a dowel
Allows installation without pre-drilling a hole. Thanks to the tip in the form of a feather drill and large, screw-like threads on the outer surface of the body, the dowel can be easily screwed into the wall with a regular screwdriver.
Injection dowels: a mesh anchor is inserted into the hole. Using a special syringe, a quick-hardening mixture is injected into the dowel through a protective sleeve. When the mixture is pumped, the mesh expands, forming a kind of dowel in the shape of a ball. To fasten objects to walls made of slotted bricks or blocks, instead of a mesh dowel, you can use an injection dowel without mesh.
Home / Educational program / Review of the main types of dowels
Overview of the main types of dowels
A variety of dowels are used today in construction and operation, each of which has its own distinctive properties and scope of application. To learn more about them, you should carefully study the features and modifications, as well as see an overview of the most popular and popular products.
If you want to learn how to use a dowel correctly, watch the video.
dowel nail
It is a fastening element consisting of 2 parts - a plastic spacer shell and a metal screw. Most often used for fastening objects to solid products and materials - stones, bricks, concrete structures. To check the quality, you should carefully inspect the dowel nail for cracks and symmetry, paying special attention to the strength of the plastic shell.
Prices
The minimum price of the product is 174 rubles. for 1 package (100 pcs.), and the maximum is 856 rubles. for 1 package (100 pcs.).
Dowel screw
This fastening material is a product used for reliable fastening of structures and objects in solid and solid concrete and wooden structures - bricks, reinforced concrete, natural stone. The main parameter of its quality is a durable plastic shell made of nylon material, as well as reliable galvanized steel. When purchasing, it is advisable to see the quality certificate for the product.
Prices
In Russia, the price range for dowel screws ranges from 42 rubles. for 100 pcs. up to 460 rub. for 100 pcs. depending on the diameter and length of the product.
Expansion dowel
This product is a fastening system that includes a polypropylene ribbed element and a metal (or plastic) screw with a wide pitch. An expansion dowel is used to securely connect self-tapping screws to a load-bearing base - concrete, stone or wood. This fastener is also used for attaching drywall, plywood or aerated concrete. To check the quality of the fastener, it is tested for bending, which should be minimal.
Prices
In our country you can buy an expansion dowel from 22 rubles. for 100 pcs. up to 100 rub. for 100 pcs.
Dowel clamp
This interesting and very important fastening element is used to securely connect wires to a load-bearing surface - a wall, ceiling or rail. The dowel clamp is a reliable PVC product, which is made in the form of a loop with growths at the end. Having strengthened the bundle of wires, the dowel is driven into the pre-drilled hole with light movements, securely fixing into it.
Prices
The minimum price of the product is 101 rubles. (for 100 pcs), and the maximum is 148 rubles. (per 100 pcs).
Self-tapping dowel
This fastening mechanism consists of a plastic shell and a steel insert in the form of a screw, which is screwed in and pushes the plastic shell inside the product.
Most often it is performed with a flange, which prevents the screw from being buried inside the wall. Used for fastening in brick and block structures, monolithic reinforced concrete walls, wooden products. To check the quality, you should carefully inspect the product visually - there should be no cracks on it, steel self-tapping screws should be without nicks.
Prices
In our country, the minimum cost of dowel screws is 120 rubles. (for 200 pcs.), but the cost can also reach 360 rubles. (for 200 pcs.).
Plastic dowel
It is a PVC or nylon shell that has a hole in the inside and exciting ribbed edges and hooks on the sides. Used as a reliable fastener for connecting structures and attaching additional elements to stone, concrete or brick walls. To check the good quality of plastic dowels, it is best to test them in practice - they should not bend or crack during operation.
Prices
You can buy a plastic dowel for a price starting from 30 rubles. (for 100 pcs.) up to 200 rub. (for 100 pcs.).
Dowel for thermal insulation
This product is widely used for fastening thermal insulation boards - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool panels.
Dowels: varieties, types, application
The thermal insulation dowel is a plastic product with a very wide cap on one side, thanks to which the thermal insulation material is securely attached to the load-bearing surface of the wall. To check the quality of products, you must have a certificate that certifies the technical compliance of the product.
Prices
Today, a dowel for thermal insulation can be purchased at a price of 26 rubles. (for 10 pcs.) up to 240 rub. (for 10 pcs.).
Video
Photo: kss16.ru, ares74.ru, arkada-metiz.ru, eko-krepezh.ru,
stroysvoimirukami.ru, mir-krepega.ru, centr-trade.stroika.biz.ua
Structural glazing of facades
The facade is the outer side of any building, its “face”.
When assessing the appearance of a building, we first of all pay attention to its façade, which is why façade work is given the closest attention these days. The most popular facade work today includes façade glazing. It makes the building look spectacular, modern and attractive, allowing you to realize the most…
Construction of facades using a modular method
Until recently, sparkling facades made entirely of glass were very popular. Today, architects prefer to combine glass with expensive facing materials - steel, ceramics, terracotta - to create durable and stylish facades. In this case, the technology of constructing curtain block external walls is used. This method allows you to assemble glazed elements and large panels directly at the factory, and...
Plaster systems with insulation. Insulation materials and technology for their fastening
Plaster systems with insulation are a layer of insulation fixed to the facade and plastered using special technologies. Insulation plays one of the most important roles in this process - many characteristics of the finished façade depend on the insulation - thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, as well as the location of the dew point and the negative temperature zone. To prepare the wall for installation of insulation,…
Plaster systems with insulation. Technology
Anything can serve as the basis for a plaster system - reinforced concrete slabs, solid or hollow bricks, multi-slot concrete blocks, even wooden beams, but only if the house has already undergone final shrinkage. The plaster system for walls made of “warm” cellular blocks should be designed with particular care. As a rule, they do not need a large layer of insulation, but high...
Plaster systems with insulation. General information
There are two ways to plaster facades - with insulation and without insulation. “Warm” facades are both the insulation of the house required by SNiP and a beautiful finish. Plaster systems are much more effective in terms of saving heat than any other methods of finishing facades, since they do not have rigid connections (fasteners, etc.), which theoretically could...
Which dowels are better
Which dowel to choose is a rather trivial question, which actually has a clear answer: you need to choose the dowel that matches the installation material and type of installation. How many times will a master curse a scrolling self-tapping screw when installing a cornice on a foam concrete partition of a house of the 1-LG-600 series? How many people have wrapped an unfortunate dowel with electrical tape, put a cable casing on it, put on a heat-shrinkable tube - and all to no avail!
Who would guess to put two or three pieces in a row and turn them all the way through so that they don’t turn? And how many people use a special expansion dowel for gas and foam concrete, not to mention the fact that few suspect, and even fewer know for sure, that such a dowel, it turns out, exists in nature! But a unified classification of dowels, reflected in any regulatory documents, does not exist in nature.
So here, in fact, everything is both simple and quite complicated at the same time. Let's try to figure out what kind of dowels there are in principle:
According to the operating principle:
1. Spacers, which are held in a hole of a certain diameter due to expansion when screwing in self-tapping screws - the ribs of the spacer dowel rest against the walls of the hole and wedge in it. They are intended for solid materials (concrete, reinforced concrete, asphalt, even wood and wood-based materials).
2. Anchor ones, which, in addition to wedging in the material, are also capable of deforming so that the back part of such a dowel cannot fit into the hole (anchor principle). Such dowels are intended for hollow and porous materials (masonry made of hollow bricks, aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc.), as well as sheet materials such as gypsum board.
By installation method:
1. Twisting - this long and awkward word speaks for itself and precisely defines the method of installation of this class of dowels. Tightening is done either with a screwdriver of the desired configuration, or with a similarly equipped screwdriver (details below).
2. Driven - similarly, the method of installing such dowels is hammering, usually with a hammer or mallet, but sometimes with the help of other tools: for example, these can be pliers, a wooden block, a fragment of a solid brick or a piece of concrete, a steel angle, etc. .
They also separate through installation, in which part of the dowel is passed through the structure being fixed (has an elongated non-expanding part) and preliminary, in which the dowel is placed in the hole along its entire length (the most common type of installation).
According to the material of manufacture:
1. Plastic - made of polyethylene, polypropylene or polyamide (nylon).
2. Metal - made of aluminum alloys, brass, stainless steel.
By type of front part:
1. With a side (cuff) - when screwed, the side wraps around a screw (screw).
2. Without a side. True, you can get an effect similar to the side if you do not insert the dowel all the way, leaving about 3 mm outside.
By purpose, scope and design features:
1. Standard dowels for solid materials are the most common type of this type of fastener. The classic version is made of nylon (polyamide), and it is most represented on the market by the Finnish company SORMAT (series NAT 5, NAT 6, NAT 8, NAT 10, NAT 12, etc.). In second place is the Swiss manufacturer MUNGO, whose dowels are painted in a characteristic red-orange color and are also made of nylon.
This is a fastener that is suitable in most cases for most materials. However, nylon has one very unpleasant feature - at low temperatures its strength increases sharply, and viscosity decreases. Therefore, when working “at minus” in the open, there are frequent cases of ruptures of nylon dowels (especially when using dowel-nails), as well as cases of inability to screw a self-tapping screw or screw into them completely.
However, practice has shown that it is better to use a brittle nylon dowel than a viscous polyethylene one made at the lowest level of quality. As a last resort, you can use an industrial hair dryer, performing installation in a warm stream of air.
2. The dowel for aerated concrete and foam concrete has the ability to wedge in the hole, held in place by special spiral ribs. A hole for it is drilled according to the diameter of the core, and then the dowel is driven in with a hammer and a screw is screwed into it.
3. Frame dowels are available for both solid materials and soft or hollow ones. They are used when installing window and door frames, as well as for fastening cladding elements through a layer of heat or sound insulation, a plaster layer, etc. Frame dowels can cling to partitions in the material, for which they have an elongated spacer part.
4. The adjusting dowel allows you to secure the structure at a certain (up to 30 mm) distance from the base; consists of two parts, one of which is intended for the base, and the other for the attached structure; also comes with a special screw. Designed for fastening various battens under cladding with sheet and/or panel materials.
5. The universal dowel is convenient for fastening both to cellular, creviced materials such as hollow bricks, and to hollow gypsum plasterboard partitions and suspended ceilings of various types. It is designed as follows: when screwing in a screw, the dowel material seems to “remember” the presence of a hollow space around itself and, accordingly, is deformed in it. There is also a modification of the universal dowel with spring-loaded folding strips: the strips go inside the hole in the sheet material along with the dowel, and then fold back like spacer springs in spotlights, resting against the inner surface of the sheet.
6. The dowel for gypsum plasterboard and porous concrete (“posidriver”, “jet plug”) is used for static fastening of suspended structures, as well as paintings, etc. on walls and ceilings made of gypsum plasterboard, SML, MCL and similar materials. It is screwed into the base using a screwdriver or a screwdriver, since it has a “posidrive” (PZ) type slot in the front part, and in the “back side,” that is, the back part, there is a point along the profile of the first drill, going towards a cone.
“Pozidrivers” (that’s what we called these dowels, from the bourgeois name “pozidrivers” painted on the boxes with “MUNGO” fasteners in which they were delivered to the site) are made of both plastic and silicon-aluminum alloy (silumin). A plastic dowel (“fiber jet”) is used only for fastening to gypsum plasterboard and similar materials, while a silumin dowel is used for gypsum plasterboard, gypsum, chipboard and cellular concrete. Self-tapping screws for them are included, but they are usually of lousy quality.
Plastic posidrivers can be mounted using the so-called. “drill-screwdriver” (this is an attachment for a screwdriver), since some of their modifications do not have their own drill, unlike silumin ones. True, this attachment is not easy to get.
DOUBLES. VARIETIES AND FEATURES OF USE
The soundproofing dowel is placed in a special rubber shell that absorbs extraneous sounds.
8. Collet dowel - a cylindrical sleeve with an internal thread, usually made of brass (this alloy has the necessary flexibility and at the same time is durable). The inner part (which is threaded) has the shape of a cone, and deep notches are applied to the sleeve on the outer part. There are options made of sheet steel, carbon or stainless steel, including without thread, for example, HILTI HKD-S.
The hole for this type of fastener should be drilled along the diameter of its front part. Next, we clean the hole (unlike, say, the process of installing a nylon dowel, cleaning here is strictly required), install the collet into the hole (we hammer it in with a hammer or, better yet, a rubber mallet so as not to damage the thread). We tighten the screw/bolt - the sleeve expands thanks to the notches, preventing rotation, and it is secured in the hole. A collet dowel is used for fastening various types of suspended structures in solid materials (concrete, reinforced concrete, monolithic brick, wood, etc.)
Finally, disc-shaped dowels, used for fastening heat-insulating boards on the facades of buildings and structures, and the so-called dowel-nails, which are combined types of fasteners, stand somewhat apart (unlike the ordinary dowels discussed here, none of the parts of these types can be fully used in separation from the other).
Self-tapping screws for concrete
A turbo screw for concrete (dowel, frame screw) is a regular self-tapping screw. Its only difference is the thread cut unevenly in height. The tip is sharp. A countersunk head with a slot, often made for an asterisk hexagon (TORX T30) or for a cross bit. Most often used for fastening frame window and door structures (concrete, brick, natural stone).
These self-tapping screws can also be used for fastening lightweight hanging structures: cabinets, hangers, cables.
The head has a countersink on the inside for a tight fit of the fastener to the part.
Concrete hardware is made of high-strength steel and coated with yellow zinc. All items have the same diameter: 7.5 mm. Popular length sizes range from 52 to 202 mm in increments of 25-50 mm. Also, dowels can be made with different types of heads: with an external thread (“stud”), with an internal thread (“barrel”), with a hex head with a TORX slot, with a hex head with a wrench, with loops, and convex heads.
Some manufacturers offer self-tapping screws for concrete without drilling, capable of being screwed into concrete without preliminary preparation of the hole: such hardware is more firmly anchored in the base. High-quality concrete screws can be reused. This is convenient when installing temporary structures: ladders, handrails, scaffolding. For quick installation in one operation, it is convenient to use impact wrenches. They allow you to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete with or without preliminary drilling.
How to twist correctly
Screws for light and heavy concrete are no different. Self-tapping screws are used without dowels. The dowel is fastened after preliminary drilling of the hole. Retention at the base occurs according to the principle of an anchor screw. Afterwards, it is screwed through the part into the prepared hole. With notches for countersinking, the self-tapping screw firmly adheres to the part, due to the friction force, it additionally holds it and dampens vibrations.
It is important to use the self-tapping screw correctly, as you can easily break it off.
company's news
It is necessary to tighten a screw with a non-countersunk head with a certain force, since due to high loads when tightening, it can be broken by simply over-tightening. The risk of head breakage is also associated with the high heating temperature of the self-tapping screw body when screwing into concrete.
The order of twisting the dowel:
- Fastening of window and frame structures is carried out by at least two people.
- Align the structure to be strengthened and secure it.
- Transfer the installation dimensions to the hole drilling plane.
- Remove the structure and drill holes.
- Reinstall the structure and screw the screw through the structure into the prepared hole.
Table 1. Standard sizes of pre-drilled concrete screws.
Prices
The price of concrete screws is almost the same everywhere. The product is valuable: a pack of screws for 100 pieces costs from 250 to 550 rubles, the price is affected by the length of the screw. Many suppliers offer to buy self-tapping screws for concrete: the popularity of dowels among window and door workers has not gone away for the last 10 years. Installation organizations (electricians, plumbers) and construction companies also do not disdain this product. Turbo screws for monolithic construction sites are purchased en masse. The main selling sizes are 7.5*112, 7.5*132, 7.5*152.7.5*202.
Due to its popularity, it is produced both in the Russian Federation (according to GOST 9012-59) and imported in large quantities from Europe and China.