Swedish brick stove. Swedish stove (Swedish) - purpose, structure, drawings, how to put together different types. main reasons to choose Swedish oven

The Swedish stove is a unique design in its characteristics, which is suitable both for heating residential premises and for preparing a variety of food. The design features and relatively small size of the unit allow it to be placed in adjacent rooms. Usually the front side of the Swede goes into the kitchen, and the back wall into the living room to heat it.

The Swede is characterized by a very high efficiency, especially for its modest size. The power of one standard stove of this type is enough to heat a room of up to 25-30 m2.

At its core, the Swedish stove is an ordinary heating and cooking stove, additionally equipped with a three- or five-channel panel. If desired, the design of the Swede can be supplemented with a couch or a convenient drying rack.

Among the main advantages of the Swede, one should note the simplicity of its independent masonry - you just need to prepare the required materials, understand the order and do everything according to the instructions.

The order of the furnace should be understood as a drawing indicating the order in which each row of the structure is laid out.

What is needed to lay a Swede?

A standard Swedish oven has dimensions of 1020x880x2170 mm. If you wish, you can change the proposed dimensions at your discretion, but the stated values are the most optimal and universal.

Set for laying a Swedish stove

Red brick. Construction materials must be of exceptionally high quality.
Fire brick.
Door for the combustion chamber.

Doors for cleaning compartments.
Damper.
Oven.

Grate.
Steel corners.
Sheet steel.
Clay solution.
Metal pre-furnace sheet.
Hammer-pick.
Trowel. Using this device, you will throw masonry mortar onto the building material.
Mallet. This tool is designed for tamping the building material used.
Joinings. They will help you give masonry joints a beautiful shape.
Building level.
Scoop shovel for preparing masonry mortar.
Square.
Roulette.
Rule.
Mooring cord.
Plumb.
Refractory mixture for masonry (an alternative to ready-made mixtures - a composition of refractory clay, sand and water).

Furnace construction procedure

The layout of the stove in question is carried out in accordance with the order. This, as already noted, is a special diagram on which the order of laying out each row of the structure is indicated. There are standard procedures. If you do not have the skills to lay out ovens, it is strongly recommended to use one of the standard schemes.

A well-designed order will allow you to significantly reduce the time and money spent on stove construction. The work will be carried out in a precise and easy to understand manner to ensure maximum efficiency.

Having figured out the order of the Swedish stove before the start of construction, you will be able to lay out the unit yourself, without involving third-party craftsmen in the work and without spending money on paying for their labor.

The detailed order additionally indicates which materials should be used and at what stage of the work.

Study the proposed order and additionally pay attention to the following points:

The design of the Swedish stove includes a blower. This point must be remembered in the process of independently arranging the stove;
The first row of bricks should be laid perfectly evenly. Any displacements will lead to various violations that will negatively affect the quality and reliability of the finished furnace unit. To check the evenness of the masonry, use a building level;
The correctness of the angles must be checked - they must be strictly 90 degrees. Check the angles using a suitable tool called a square.

The reliability, efficiency and durability of a Swedish oven largely depends on the correct layout of the first row; remember this.

Before you start laying the stove yourself, complete a few simple preparatory steps.

First of all soak the brick. To do this, the bricks need to be dipped in clean water and left there for about a day. Water will fill the pores in the brick structure. Thanks to this, the building material will not absorb water from the clay solution in the future.

Prepare a clay solution. It will consist of ground clay, some sand and clean water. The specific ratio of components is selected in accordance with the characteristics of the clay.

It is important that the finished solution has normal plasticity and a uniform structure. On average, laying hundreds of bricks takes about 20 liters of mortar.

1 row. It was previously noted that this row should be laid out exclusively at the building level with additional checking using a square. Lay out this row in continuous masonry. Inside, it is allowed to use halves of bricks.

2nd row. Lay out in the same pattern as the 1st row. Be careful and do everything in strict accordance with technology, because... the first two rows serve as the base of the furnace, which should be as reliable as possible.

3-4 rows. Continue laying, gradually forming an ash chamber. At the same stage of masonry, the door of the mentioned chamber is installed. Additionally, 3 doors for cleaning hatches and a door for the blower are installed. Place smoke vents on the reverse side of the swede. They are placed in a vertical position and communicate with the combustion chamber through a hole created during the laying out of the furnace.

5 row. Install the finished oven and place a grate of suitable size in it. Form a cover for the cleaning hatches and the blower door.

6-10 row. Lay out the walls of the firebox and oven chamber. A partition made of fire-resistant brick is laid between the combustion compartment and the oven. The brick must be laid on edge. The partition should be a row lower than the chamber itself. After the tenth row is ready, lay a standard steel corner and an additional cast iron slab on the front of the structure. To secure the corner, use steel wire and a 2-centimeter layer of clay mortar.

11 row. Completely complete the closure of the channel through which the cast iron plate and the right wall of the furnace are separated.

12-16 row. Lay out the cooking compartment and 3 vertical flues. Lay out chimney openings from fire-resistant bricks.

17-18 row. Form an overlap over the cooking compartment. To form the ceiling, use the sheet steel laid in the previous stages and a corner made of the same material.

Row 19-20. Attach 2 hatches to the front of the door structure for cleaning the gas exhaust channels.

Rows 21-28. Lay out the chimney ducts. Don't forget to re-tie your stitches. In the process of laying out the 27th row, install a convenient latch. Above the installed smoke damper, leave a technological hole through which the gas ducts will interface with the air ducts.

Row 29-30. Lay out the overlap of the chimney ducts. At this stage, the width of the masonry around the perimeter must be increased by 50 mm. Thanks to this expansion, a cornice will be formed.

31 row. Adjust the dimensions of the overlap to the structural dimensions of the 27th row.

32 row. Start laying out the chimney. The standard chimney design has dimensions of 130x250 mm.

At this point, the laying out of the oven can be considered complete. At the end, all that remains is to complete the installation of the chimney, and also, if desired, to decorate the stove, for example, with paint or ceramic tiles. Additionally, you can buy a variety of accessories, for example, for storing fuel.

Shvedka stove (rear view)

Thus, there is nothing complicated about laying a Swedish stove yourself. A detailed order will help you quickly understand the specifics of the work and lay out the stove with your own hands. Follow the instructions, remember to check the evenness of the rows, and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself Swedish oven, ordering

Foundation. Must be located below floor level. These are two rows of bricks with slightly widened seams (but not more than 13mm). Hydro- and thermal insulation. Basalt cardboard (3 layers) works well.

Fire safety. The distance from the smoke duct to walls made of flammable materials is at least 37 cm. And this wall should not contain:

communications;
electrical wiring;
gas pipeline;
water supply

To avoid making such an indentation, you can make a brick wall between the stove and the wall. The laying of Swedish stoves should end 35 cm before reaching the ceiling. The side on which the combustion doors are located must be at least 120 cm from the nearest wall.

Swedish stove with wall installation

Firebox. Its walls must be made of fireclay bricks.

Floors. It is better to leave a small gap between the pipe and the ceilings. So that there is no pressure on the stove laying if the house suddenly shrinks. The resulting gap is closed with insulation.

Many summer residents do not dare to decorate their country house with a stove, citing the fact that no one lives there in winter. However, during the off-season, problems often arise with heating the house. A brick stove for a summer cottage with your own hands is a very real option to save money and get complete comfort.

For information on how to assemble a long-burning stove with your own hands, see here. Drawings and technical nuances during construction.

The compact Buleryan stove is quite suitable for heating a country house. In this article http://microklimat.pro/otopitelnoe-oborudovanie/pechi/buleryan-svoimi-rukami.html you will find step-by-step assembly instructions, and also learn about the types of its execution.

Furnace construction procedure

The detailed order additionally indicates which materials should be used and at what stage of the work.

Study the proposed order and additionally pay attention to the following points:

The design of the Swedish stove includes a blower. This point must be remembered in the process of independently arranging the stove;
The first row of bricks should be laid perfectly evenly. Any displacements will lead to various violations that will negatively affect the quality and reliability of the finished furnace unit. To check the evenness of the masonry, use a building level;
The correctness of the angles must be checked - they must be strictly 90 degrees. Check the angles using a suitable tool called a square.

The reliability, efficiency and durability of a Swedish oven largely depends on the correct layout of the first row; remember this.

Where to install the stove

A Swedish stove with a stove will fit well between two adjacent rooms, for example, as a separation between the kitchen and the living room. The part where the stove and oven will be located goes into the kitchen, and the back part, where you can equip a seating area and even a fireplace, goes into the living room. Thus, you will get a Swedish stove with a stove bench.

In principle, the Swedish stove can be installed anywhere in the room where heating, cooking, and also the addition of a decorative element are required. In cases where the cooking function is not required, you can consider the stove option as a decorative element and build a structure, for example, together with a fireplace and decorate it with finishing material, for example, natural stone.

Thus, this design is a fairly practical option, since when using a stove for cooking, the generated heat will not be wasted, but will be spent on heating the room.

Semicircular Dutch oven

Swedish stove made of concrete in a country house

Swede cap

In furnace manuals (not many, however), the furnace hood is sometimes defined as the part of it into which flue gases enter from below and exit from below. True, but this is just the tip of the iceberg. The role of the hood in the furnace is twofold.

Firstly, under the arch of the bell, gaseous fuel particles are retained and burn out, increasing the efficiency and heat transfer of the furnace. To perform this function properly, the roof arch must be arched, i.e. rounded. Under a flat roof, 100% afterburning cannot be achieved.

Secondly, the exit of the firebox into the bell is made in the form of a tapering nozzle - a heil. The mouth of the hail (its upper cut) is located HORIZONTALLY, although the channel of the hail can also be inclined. This gives rise to the so-called gas view: heavy cold air cannot pass under the hood, like water cannot pass into the hatch of a diving bell-caisson. If you don’t close the standard view after heating (which 100% saves you from burning out), then the stove will slowly cool down as if nothing had happened.

If the mouth of the hill is inclined, local convection immediately develops, as if cold were drawn from the crack under the door. The tilted caisson floods with water, causing it to capsize and sink - submariners have many scary stories about this - and the furnace with the inclined mouth of the hail quickly cools down when the view is open.

Now let's get back to the Swede. From the diagram at the beginning it is clear that the hood, as such, is simply nowhere to be installed - there is a stove with a drying niche. Afterburning of the fuel is ensured in a different way, and the combustion part is connected to the smoke circulation by a conventional vent with a vertical cut. It may be possible to reconfigure everything and get a bell-type stove with a hob, but its thermo- and gas dynamics will be completely different. Perhaps such a hypothetical stove will turn out better than the Swedish one, but it will no longer be Swedish.

"Two-bell Swede"

For an example, see fig. “Hilo” is highlighted with a red gradient. Two seemingly caps are also visible, but where is the mouth with a horizontal cut? The caps here are simply expansion chambers without any possibility of arranging a gas view. If such a “two-cap Swede” retains heat with the view open, then the cannon can fire from around the corner. Because a gun shell in flight describes a curved trajectory, artillerymen know.

Swedish heating and cooking stove project

Before you start work, here are some tips from a stove maker on laying Swedish stoves with your own hands:

Before starting work, print out the order on a printer and, in order not to get confused, when laying out the next row, circle or cross it out on the plan.
When laying the foundation, it is very important to check its level for horizontalness. However, you need to periodically check all further rows with the level.
Each brick is dipped in water for 15 seconds before being laid. But you can’t soak the bricks!
Starting a new row, lay all its bricks in place without mortar, check the dimensions, adjust, and only then lay out the row.
The grinder cuts the bricks of the desired shape very smoothly, but this creates a lot of dust, so it is better to prepare all the halves and quarters in advance in the open air.

Arrangement diagram for a Swedish heating and cooking stove with an oven

Let's consider the order of a brick Swedish stove with an oven with your own hands.

1 row. Solid (28 red bricks).
2nd row. Duplicate (if in the previous row all the bricks were whole, then here there are many halves and ¾).
3rd row. They are marked with bricks: on the left is the ash chamber, on the right is the space under the oven (a quarter of a refractory brick is laid here) and in the background are vertical channels. Doors are installed: ash pan (25 x 14 cm), three for cleaning (14 x 14). Several bricks are installed on an edge. Red brick - 19 pcs.
4 row. Vertical channels are still combined. The ash chamber is being expanded. Half a refractory brick is placed in the space under the oven. 14.5 red bricks in a row.
5 row. The doors of all channels and chambers are closed. The ash chamber is lined with refractory bricks (this will be the bottom of the firebox). An opening is left for the grate (a corner is cut around the perimeter of the hole, into which the grate is placed). 16 red + 8 fireclay bricks.
6th row. The firebox door is installed and the vertical channels are separated. Between the firebox and the oven there is a wall the size of a quarter of a refractory brick. The oven is being installed. 13 red + 3.5 fireproof.
7th row. Duplicate.
8 row. The fireproof seals off the entrance to the channel behind the oven. 13 red + 5 fireproof.
9 row. Two bricks are laid above the firebox door, one of which is cut obliquely from below, and the other from above. 13.5 red + 5 fireproof.
10 row. The oven door is closed in a similar manner to the previous row. The wall between the firebox and the oven is not laid out. A corner is selected in the bricks for installing the slab. A corner (1 m 20 cm long) is installed on the front part of the stove. 15 red, 4.5 fireproof.
11 row. A cooking chamber is formed. 16.5 red.
12 - 15 row. Duplicate.
16th row. Preparing to cover the cooking chamber. A 70 cm is placed in the front part. corner, and above the camera there are three corners of 90.5 cm each. 14.5 red.
17th row. The cooking chamber is tightly closed, leaving only an exhaust hole the size of half a brick. 25.5 red.
18th row. Duplicate. Another corner is being installed. 25 red.
19 row. Expandable: exhaust duct, drying chambers, vertical channels. 16 red.
20, 21 row. Duplicate.
22 row. The smaller drying chamber is covered with a steel plate 19 x 34 cm. 16 red.
23 row. A place for the valve is cut out above the ventilation hole. valve 13 x 13 cm. 17 red.
24 row. Two vertical channels behind the oven are combined. 15.5 red.
25 row. The steam exhaust channel is combined with a vertical channel behind it. 15.5 red.
26 row. All cameras and channels are being expanded. 90.5 cm is installed in the front part. corner. Two strips of 65 cm each are laid above the drying chamber. An angle is cut out in a large steel sheet (80 x 90.5) to the size of the corner vertical channel. A sheet is laid, covering the entire surface of the stove, including the two channels behind the oven. A distance of half a brick is left uncovered on all sides.
27 row. Solid, covering the entire area except the vertical channel. On all sides, the brick now “overhangs” the previous rows by 2.5 cm. 32 red.
28 row. Another continuous row, the bricks “overhang” even more on all sides (by another 2.5 cm). 37 red.
29 row. Continuous row, original oven size. 26.5 red. The furnace body is complete.
Row 30 The base of the pipe is formed. A corner is cut out of the bricks to the size of the smoke valve. The valve is installed. 5 red.
Row 31 and beyond. Pipe extension.

Used oil is an excellent type of fuel; besides, waste oil can save a lot of money when heating a room. Do it yourself oven using waste oil. manufacturing of stoves, operating rules, as well as the pros and cons of use.

Read this article about using an induction furnace to heat a room.

What is needed to build a heating device

The oven, which is offered for production, has a width of 1020 mm, a height of 2170 mm and a depth of 880 mm. The choice of these parameters is determined by the size of standard bricks - when laying the unit, you will not have to look for a half or three-quarter piece again, which significantly reduces construction time. It is recommended to use the principle of multiplying the dimensions of the furnace to the dimensions of the red brick when changing its proportions to suit your own needs.

During the laying process you will need both simple red and fire-resistant fireclay bricks

By the way, in Scandinavian countries entire kits are produced for the construction of stoves of any size. This “constructor” includes everything you need, including the mixture for preparing the solution. We will be able to save a little, since from the list of necessary materials given below, a thrifty and thrifty owner will always have something on hand. So, here is a list of what you will need:

500–700 pcs. high-quality red brick of grade M-150 and higher, which must undergo good firing and not have foreign inclusions greater than those required by GOST;
refractory fireclay brick brand ША-8 (its dimensions correspond to red brick, which will facilitate installation);
combustion and blower doors - 1 pc. each;
cleaning doors - 4 pcs.;
pre-furnace sheet with a thickness of 0.5 to 2 mm;
oven;
grate;
cast iron two-burner stove;
metal corner with a shelf of at least 40 mm;
exhaust valve;
sheet steel;
cement;
sand;
construction mesh for reinforcement;
tamping;
boards for formwork;
rule at least 1 m long;
fire-resistant masonry mixture (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with a mixture of clay and sand);
asbestos or basalt sealant.

Furnace casting has a decisive influence on the appearance of the furnace, so why not use the original developments of foundry designers when choosing it?

Tools that will be needed to prepare the solution and actually construct the Swedish stove:

construction hammer-pick;
trowel;
wooden or rubber mallet;
jointing;
construction level;
square;
cord and plumb line;
roulette;
shovel;
containers for solution.

You can’t do without a convenient trowel during the construction process.

A classic Swedish stove, unlike a Dutch stove, is not covered with tiles or tiles. However, nothing prevents you from decorating the stove at your own discretion if the brickwork does not fit into the interior design.

Materials

Over the course of geological history, Sweden has developed rich deposits of excellent fireclay clay based on aluminosilicates, so the Swedish stove was designed taking into account the availability of high-quality fireclay bricks. It is this that makes it possible to develop such a high temperature in the firebox that is necessary for complete afterburning of the fuel under conditions of active heat extraction by the oven.

Fireclay brick

It would be most correct to line the entire firebox with fireclay bricks, starting with the 3rd row and ending with the one laid on top of the slab. But in this case, the stove will turn out to be too expensive - due to the high cost of this material. Therefore, fireclay is usually used only for lining the walls of the firebox from the inside.

Other elements of the chamber part should be laid out of stove bricks (red ceramic solid) grade M200

It is important that the edges of all ½ or ¾ brick blocks are smooth, so they cannot be prepared using a pick-hammer. You need to either cut it with a grinder or purchase it ready-made

Kiln solid brick

A channel convector can be built from ordinary brick: since the afterburning of gases occurs in the chamber part, they enter here at a temperature below 800 degrees.

The solution is mixed using a special type of clay - ordinary clay is not suitable. As a rule, marl is used.

You will also need fireclay clay - the mortar for fireclay bricks will be mixed from it.

Fireclay clay

Mountain sand should be used, which is characterized by a minimum of organic impurities and an angular granule shape. A solution prepared on smooth river sand will quickly crack.

For the construction of a channel convector, a conventional cement-sand mortar is used.

High thermal loads place special demands on the combustion door. An inexpensive model made of sheet steel using the stamping method will quickly become loose. It is better to install a cast iron door with fasteners that are clamped between the bricks.

Stove door: cast iron

If you nevertheless decide to use a stamped door, you need to equip it with such fasteners yourself: two pieces of steel wire (annealed) with a diameter of 3–4 mm and a length of 50–70 mm are welded to each corner of the frame. During installation, these “antennae” are spread apart so that their ends are 40–50 mm apart from each other, and placed in the seams. On top of the stamped door you need to arrange an overlap of a steel angle or strip.

Door installation

Products and materials should be purchased according to the following specifications:

Kiln brick M200: 717 pcs. (excluding chimney).
Fireclay brick, grade Ш8: 154 pcs.
Asbestos cord.
Pieces of equal-flange steel angle 50x5 mm, length 1020–1030 mm: 2 pcs.
Pieces of steel strip 50x5 mm: 3 pcs. 920 mm long, 2 pcs. 54 mm long, 2 pcs. 48 mm long.
Grate with dimensions 200x300 mm.
Door for the firebox, size - 250x210 mm.
Blower door, size - 140x140 mm.
Cleaning doors size 140x140 mm: 8 pcs.
Oven with dimensions 450x360x300 mm.
Chimney dampers size 250x130 mm: 3 pcs.
Cooking plate dimensions 710x410 mm.
Fireplace grate 690–700 mm long. In the absence of a purchased one, you can weld it from a steel rod.
Material for installing a fireproof coating in front of the furnace: steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm or ceramic tiles.

The floor must be protected within a radius of 1.2 m from the center of the fire door.

Swede heating and cooking stoves

Heating and cooking stoves of this type have a fairly simple, and at the same time, well-thought-out design. Such stoves are usually designed for two rooms at the same time. In this case, the front part with the combustion and hob surface faces the kitchen or dining room, and the back side is intended to heat the adjacent room. This could be a bedroom, a living room, and so on. The Swedish stove works according to a simple principle, which becomes clear after examining its structure. A standard Swedish stove consists primarily of a combustion chamber. A hob, made primarily of cast iron, is installed on the side above the combustion chamber. The stove has special burners with an adjustable diameter for installing containers used for heating water or cooking. After passing under the hob, incompletely burned gases enter a special chimney system. The chimney in a Swedish stove is designed in such a way that hot air lingers in it for as long as possible before escaping into the atmosphere. Due to this, effective heating of all the walls of the furnace is achieved, which then gradually releases the accumulated heat into the room.

Design Features

The classic Swedish stove, shown in the cross-sectional diagram, consists of the following elements:

a firebox and an ash chamber located underneath it;
cast iron hob;
oven installed on the same level with the grate;
above the stove there is a niche for drying things; if desired, it can be divided into several small compartments - stoves;
a system of vertical channels (smoke circulation) occupies the entire rear part of the heater.

There are 2 indispensable attributes by which the Swede can be unmistakably distinguished from other designs found on the Internet and technical literature. Firstly, this stove does not exist without an oven, and secondly, it always has a network of 3 smoke circuits in the rear.

Reference. Thanks to its successful design, the Swedish stove became the basis for the development of more complex and efficient heat sources. An example is a two-bell heater without an oven by A. Batsulin or a stove with a fireplace in the back by A. Ryazankin, shown in the photo.

A traditional Swedish stove works like this: when wood burns in the firebox, infrared heat from the flame is transferred to the hob, and from it to the air in the room. The other part of the heat, together with the combustion products, passes through the vertical partition, washes the oven body, and then rushes through the passage in the lower part into the channel system. There, the flue gases make 3 revolutions, heating the solid brickwork of the rear wall, and are thrown out through the chimney.

The front niche, located at the top, receives heat from 2 sides - below from the stove and behind from the smoke circulation. Thanks to this distribution and the developed system of heat removal from flue gases, the efficiency of the heating unit reaches 60%. See the video for the design and construction procedure of the classic Swede:

masonry of the stove Swedish Buslaeva masonry order

At the time of writing this article in the spring of 2013, Shvedka type stoves are No. 1 in the ranking of Russian stove makers, although objectively this is of course fundamentally wrong, I will write about this in more detail at the end of this article. Moreover, from the huge variety of their varieties, you can really find tested working diagram You can either from familiar stove makers, or on a trusted website. I’ll say right away that the “Swedish” model presented in the article was put together by me quite recently and showed itself only on the positive side, firstly, it turned out to be quite effective in terms of design, and secondly, with consistently good traction, it stored heat in a country cottage with an area of 40 meters up to 2 days after combustion. In addition, the onset of heat radiation also occurred within the first 15 minutes of the firebox, while the temperature of the oven and hob were beyond praise.

osnovaremonta.ru

Many stove makers of the old school, like me, were always taught the Swedish order of laying bricks on the edge (as if it was beautiful this way and the customers liked it to warm up quickly), time has shown the opposite - laying a stove in the brick floor is much easier to do, more durable and safer to use. For this reason, I posted the drawings of just such a thick-walled “Swedish” and not the old versions of quick heating in 1/4 bricks.

Order drawings of the Shvedka furnace of the K.Ya. Buslaev system

I know of more than 12 different designs for Swedish stoves, of which I personally put together 7. Of these seven, the best for me is the “Swedish”, developed by K.Ya. Buslaev. Laying any Swede is not an easy task with a complex smoke circulation system and increased requirements for proportions and seam dressing. And there can be no mistake here, otherwise there is either a problem with traction or a crazy consumption of bricks for battle 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4, this is not for you simple brick kitchen stove-stove with which you can replay all 3 times in a day. For this reason, I highly recommend using the proven scheme of this particular Buslaev furnace.

osnovaremonta.ru

The furnace is laid mainly with bricks on edge; all the bricks are first soaked in water to achieve a minimum thickness of the seams. Uneven bricks must be pressed together. The size of Shvedka Buslaev is 1160x900 mm, height without pipe is 2100 mm, heat output is 5 kW. The oven is also equipped with a cast iron stove 560x965 mm, a samovar and an oven 600x400x350 mm. A separate foundation is required for the furnace. It has been accurately verified despite the complex five-channel smoke circulation due to careful calculation of the furnace layout, as when firing with gas, condensation does not form at the outlet of the pipe. The mode of self-cleaning and simple repair of the stove has also been thought out.

osnovaremonta.ru

Swedish stove laying requires: about 300 kg of clay-sand mortar and 550 bricks of standard size 250x120x65 A solid foundation is required for the swedish, the brick must be soaked. The furnace is laid in the brick floor (120 mm) up to the 11th row inclusive, then brick on edge (65 mm)

Materials for masonry “Swedish” K.Ya. Buslaeva.

1. - fire door, 21x25 cm - 1 piece;
2. - blower door, 14x25 cm - 1 piece;
3. -cleaning door, 12x12 cm - 3 pcs;
4. - red brick - 550 pcs;
5. - oven 45x25x29 cm - 1 piece;
6. - grate 20x30 cm - 1 piece;
7. - valve 25x13 cm - 1 piece;
8. - cast iron stove with 2 burners, 41x71 cm - 1 piece;
9. - hood damper 13x13 cm - 1 piece;
10. - fireclay brick SHA-8-30 pcs;
11. - steel corner 45 x 45 x 700 – 1 piece;
12. - steel corner 45 x 45 x 905 – 5 pcs;
13. - steel strip 50 x 5 x 650 – 2 pcs;
14. - drying shelf 190 x 340 – 1 piece;
15. - drying chamber covering sheet 800 x 905 – 1 pc.
16. - pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm – 1 pc.

Just in case, I’ll write that the glory of the Swedes is somewhat exaggerated; they are inferior to modern bell-type furnaces in efficiency and heat capacity, besides Tavo there are designs that are similar but more improved, for example Moskvichka stove You can also look for a selection in the section ready-made diagrams of 20 furnaces .

Swede stove turnkey price in Moscow and the Moscow region

turnkey Swedish oven price

Be sure to read my articles:

Popular barbecue with cauldron
Overview of BBQ areas
Construction of the BBQ area

Dear friends. Separately, I would like to dwell on the service and turnkey Swedish oven price. Often the customer asks if we carry out turnkey masonry work. The term “turnkey” itself means that you pay money and get results. This should include work on the foundation, the purchase of materials and the construction work itself.
But this is only the first moment. The cost of materials will definitely be inflated - I often communicate with construction crews and foremen at construction sites where we work

laying barbecue complexes,

and we know that many foremen and builders have unspoken agreements with sellers of building materials. When a builder comes to the store, he will be given the material with any receipt. This means that the builder will be in the clear before you, since he has accounted for your receipts. But in fact, he put the difference between the store price and the price that the store indicated on the receipt in his pocket.
Let's move on: constructing a foundation for the furnace. These works are quite simple, and personally I (like any other stove maker) would prefer to do

In a whole day I will earn an order of magnitude more by building a furnace than by pouring a foundation. That is why all the stove makers who will offer you turnkey Swedish oven price- will definitely increase the cost of foundation installation services.
I don’t recommend Turnkey Construction to you. How will work with me work: after agreeing on the task, I draw up a list of materials, and you independently purchase bricks, clay, and fittings. It’s difficult to make a mistake here, I describe everything in detail, moreover, I’m always in touch and will answer you if you are in the construction market. Brick from a certain factory is difficult to counterfeit - there are many Lode brick dealers in Moscow and the Moscow region. This way you will be absolutely sure that you will not overpay for materials - you can go to absolutely any construction company that is closer to your site.
Purchase materials yourself. This will save you 10-15% of the amount quoted by the turnkey stove maker
Any local handyman can pour the foundation. Of course, I draw up technical specifications for these workers - and under your control they carry out this work. It will definitely cost less than from a stove maker. But it’s simply inconvenient for me to do such work: I need to pour the foundation, then leave to let it settle, then come again to lay out the stove.

To the origins of the popularity of Swedish cooking stoves

The classic Swedish stove is both beautiful and functional

According to existing legend, the first Swedish stove was built in Russia by soldiers who were captured during one of the battles of the Northern War, which was started by the Swedish king Charles XII back in 1700. However, this is nothing more than a myth, since there is documentary evidence that the heating device, known in our country as the “Swedish”, was developed in a distant northern country in 1767. The order of the Academy of Sciences was issued by King Adolf Frederick of Holstein-Gottorp. Perhaps this is what contributed to the preservation of historical materials about the development of a new wood-burning stove. The reasons that prompted the King of Sweden to personally deal with such mundane issues were quite prosaic. The fact is that the dense forests that the Swedes were so proud of in the Middle Ages had already been thoroughly cut down by this time - the wood was actively used in military and housing construction, and the Swedes simply did not know any other fuel at that time. The homes of ordinary people were most often heated by hastily built brick fireplaces that required constant heating. By the way, the stoves of the nobility were also not particularly economical - at best, they used voluminous “Dutch stoves”, which at that time were very gluttonous.

Using the proverb that has survived to this day that “everything new is a well-forgotten old,” Swedish scientists did not hesitate for a long time with the design. The basis was a well-studied Dutch oven, which was carefully remodeled during the work.

The changes primarily affected functionality - the “Swedish” was equipped with a pita for cooking, an oven and practical niches, one of which was intended for drying clothes, and the other was used to ensure that cooked food remained warm all day. This arrangement was extremely convenient for small houses, since the stove, installed in the wall between the kitchen and the room, provided all the heating needs of an ordinary family.

The high functionality of the Swede can be complemented by a comfortable and warm bed

Initially, several modifications of Swedish stoves were developed, which, with minor changes, have survived to this day:

heating and cooking unit with only one stove;
Swedish with stove and oven;
a wood-burning heating device equipped with a stove, an oven (one or two) and a water heating tank;
double-sided stove-fireplace - the cooking part of the stove is located in the kitchen, and the decorative part opens into the hall or living room;
Swede with a couch.

In addition, depending on personal wishes, the stove, as before, may have one or two niches located above the stove.

Swedish stove with fireplace

The main design parameters were calculated by Swedish scientists so accurately that they have remained virtually unchanged for several centuries. We can say with complete confidence that it is the correct calculation and well-thought-out design of the Swede that are the root cause of all its advantages:

compact dimensions;
functional and practical design;
high efficiency and heat transfer;
fast heating thanks to simple and effective solutions in the heat exchange part of the unit;
versatility;
undemanding to fuel - you can burn any type of solid fuel, from wood shavings and reeds to coal;
variability of the heating device - its functionality and design can be changed according to your preferences and needs;
ease of operation and maintenance;
efficiency;
possibility of building with your own hands.

The disadvantages of the “Swedish” are the same as those of other channel stoves. First of all, this is rapid cooling when the valve is not closed, as well as the need to periodically clean the channels of the unit from soot. In addition, a wood-burning heat generator places increased demands on construction technology - only new, high-quality brick is suitable for making a “Swede”, and in the process of work, increased concentration, accuracy and maximum efficiency will be required.

Moskvichka stove

There is another type of similar stove with an oven. This is some answer to all foreign similar stoves, which was created by a domestic inventor Victor Pilyush. The stove with the Russian name “Moskvichka” is a universal device with which you can not only heat a room, but also use it as a stove for cooking. V. Pilyush invented 4 types of such stoves. Their production can be carried out in 20 sizes.

The inventor managed to form the structure in such a way that the entire structure works to accumulate heat. This happens due to the heating channel, which is located below.

In the Moskvichka stove, it is possible to install a firebox in two versions:

The firebox operates at space heating .
The firebox is working not only for heating, but also for cooking.

It is worth noting that in the oven of this oven you can adjust the temperature.

Furnace structure

If Russian and Dutch stoves are considered to be the product of folk ingenuity, then the “Swedish” stove has a well-defined team of authors. It was headed by academicians of the Swedish Academy of Sciences K. Konstedt and F. Wörd. The then leadership of the country set a task for the developers: to create a stove that would be better adapted to the cold and humid local climate and fuel shortages than the most common “Dutch stove” in Europe at that time. In addition, the new unit had to be compact in size (the lack of land does not allow the Swedes to build too spacious houses) and be as simple and inexpensive as possible.

What we got in the end consists of two parts: one is a chamber oven, in which the chamber, blown by hot flue gases, is also an oven; the second is a duct convector from a Dutch oven stretched to the sides and placed behind the first part. It seems like nothing complicated, but it took a long time and painstakingly to select and calculate the parameters at which the efficiency of the unit, heating rate and heat transfer would be maximum.

Swedish oven diagram

Let's look at the technical features:

The purpose of the chamber part, in addition to cooking, is to absorb the very first heat generated during the combustion of light fractions of coal and firewood. This is the first difference from the “Dutch”: in it this heat was almost completely thrown out into the chimney, since the brick did not have time to absorb it due to its low thermal conductivity.
The Dutch oven did not have a zone for afterburning such fractions. The “Swedish” was equipped with a kind of hood, in which the gases completely burn out, and for the best absorption of thermal energy, a large metal oven was installed into the brick body of the stove (item 1). Due to the high thermal conductivity of steel, it heats up almost instantly, which made the effect of forced heating possible.
If the cooking niche with the stove installed in it (item 2) is closed with a wooden damper, then the dishes prepared for breakfast and left on the stove will still be warm in the morning. They can be quickly reheated in the oven, which will heat up almost simultaneously with the start of the morning heating.
The oven was also equipped with a spacious drying niche (item 3), in which a couple of sets of very wet clothes can be completely dried overnight.
In order to simplify and reduce the cost of the design of the hilo, which is a rather complex element, Swedish engineers did not use it. A transfer window was simply installed under the oven. This is precisely the reason for the inability of the “Swede” to retain heat for a long time after heating with the view open.
The role of a heat accumulator is played by a vertically elongated channel convector installed behind the chamber furnace. It is designed according to the Dutch principle: inside there is a labyrinth of channels through which flue gases pass before entering the chimney. Here the heat generated during combustion and smoldering of the main mass of fuel is absorbed.

Initially, the channels were made vertical. At the same time, the heating of the lower part of the furnace deteriorated, but the fuel burned to a more complete extent. In the modification with a horizontal arrangement of channels, the bottom is heated much better, but the stove quickly becomes overgrown with soot (a sign of incomplete combustion of fuel). In general, manipulations with the channel part, which does not have any clever thermal devices, do not affect the characteristics of the stove in any way. You can safely vary its size and position relative to the chamber part, so that it becomes possible to heat 3 rooms.

Swedish oven placement option

“Swedish” can simultaneously take on the function of preparing hot water for domestic needs. A heat exchanger in the form of a curved pipe should be installed in the oven - here it will not affect the performance of the oven in any way. The storage tank is placed either in a drying niche or on the roof.

The vaults in the Swedish kiln are made not in the form of arches, but with the help of ceilings made of rolled steel - corners and strips. Typically, stove makers try to avoid introducing metal elements into the masonry - due to the significant difference in the values of the coefficients of thermal expansion of brick and metal.

the arched vault significantly increases the height of the stove, which was unacceptable for low Swedish ceilings;
it leads to a noticeable increase in the cost of the design, since it is a rather complex unit.

As time has shown, the coexistence of brick and steel in a Swedish kiln is quite possible, unless there is direct contact between them: both materials should always be separated by a 6 mm wide seam filled with mortar.

Operating principle and design of the Swedish oven

The compact dimensions of the stove (1020x885x2030mm) allow it to be placed in a small country house or dacha. But despite its small size, these dimensions of a Swedish stove are enough to effectively heat a room of 30-35 square meters.

Depending on the type and type of Swede, the designs will vary. So, for example, to equip a Swede with a sunbed, it is necessary to equip horizontal channels with a winter/summer mode. Thanks to a special valve, which is installed in a straight vertical channel, it is possible to block the latter.

In winter, such a valve closes, and the heat moves in a large circle, warming up the entire stove along with the sunbed. And in the summer, the damper opens a direct outlet for warm air into a vertical pipe through which the gases escape outside. This makes it possible to use only the hob and oven without heating the room.

Swedish stove

The “Dutch” design was taken as the basis for the Swedish stove. This model was already very popular, but it did not allow for effective heating of the room, and the fuel consumption was too high.

Taking into account the harsh climate of Scandinavia, the developers improved the “Dutch” model and added a hob with an oven. Thus, elements were added not only for cooking, but also for heating water and drying clothes.

Whatever the design of the stove - with a sunbed, with an oven or just a stove - the principle of its operation will be the same: channel, like the “Dutch”.

Swedish: scheme

The metal oven is located on the side of the firebox and is designed to directly transfer heat into the room. But cooking and baking is not the main function of the oven.

After lighting the wood, it warms up in literally 5 minutes. The figure shows why the oven heats up so quickly.

Swedish design

Before going down, combustion products heat the oven in the top and sides. On the other hand, the stove is heated by the firebox. The stove warms up from the firebox, heating the room itself.

The upper part was originally designed for the purpose of drying clothes; it is heated by the stove and the ducts running behind it. The channels, going around the entire oven, go into vertical channels and transfer heat to things that are hung out to dry.

How the Swedish oven works

The design of the Swedish stove is the result of improved engineering. Unlike Russian and Dutch stoves, it has a more complex device with high efficiency. It has significantly greater thermal power and heat transfer.

If we take the same amount of material and fold the “Dutch”, we will get a power of 2500 kcal/hour, while the Swede will produce all 3500 kcal/hour. In this case, it will be enough to lay only 2 portions of firewood per day to keep the house warm.

Swedish woman in a modern interior

If in Scandinavia the Swedes were traditionally installed between the kitchen and the bedroom so that on a cold winter night it would warm the room, today in stylish and modern houses you can increasingly find a stone structure that stands between the living room and the kitchen.

At the same time, it performs a double function: it serves for cooking and is the main decorative decoration of the living room. On one side it can be equipped with an oven, and on the other with an open fireplace, decorated with an openwork forged damper.

Swede with fireplace

The high efficiency and efficiency of the stove is due to a complex smoke exhaust system, which allows rational use of the heat generated by burning wood. One of the undeniable advantages of the design is the ability to create winter and summer versions of the stove.

The fact is that each type has its own smoke path. This makes it possible to cook food in summer without heating the room.

Many summer residents are familiar with the situation when, at the beginning of the heating season, when lighting the stove, the room begins to smoke. There is also a separate smoke exhaust system, which allows you to effectively use the stove with different functions in both winter and summer.

Structural and functional features

The main advantage of a Swedish brick stove is its compactness - even “tiny” ones can cope with the maintenance of residential premises. In this model, combustion products are delivered to the pipe through a channel chimney. Bell elements located above the drying chamber and firebox are responsible for heat exchange. If a Swedish stove is installed with an oven, the latter is placed on the same level as the firebox, which ensures quick heating.

You can bake a Swedish stove with your own hands without specialized qualifications, you just need to be careful

Hob

A Swedish stove with a stove is a traditional configuration; it involves the use of a thick cast iron plate, in which there are 2 lockable burners. Typically, such slabs have standard dimensions of 410x710 mm. The height of the firebox varies between 280-330 mm, the width reaches 350 mm, and the length reaches 550 mm.

Gas channel system

The channels can be horizontally or vertically oriented; the smoke passing through them heats up the structure, and the room is heated from its walls. This is an economical and highly efficient system: the heat that seeps through the pipe in conventional Russian stoves is here directed directly to heating.

If the flue channels in a Swedish heating stove are horizontal, the walls of the structure are heated more evenly. But in this case, more cleaning holes with molded doors will have to be introduced into the system, which will increase the final cost of the masonry.

Vertically located channels can function perfectly with one technical hatch, but here another problem arises - uneven heating of the furnace. The shield in the first channel, into which combustion products are immediately directed, becomes hot faster compared to the third (output). That is, one room may be cooler than another.

The bell-type device works with one cleaning window, the surface of the furnace is evenly heated, and less bricks are required for construction. The unit cools down more slowly, since heat is retained in the upper part of the hoods, and ventilation from the doors is carried out only in the center.

Oven

The large volume of the cabinet allows you to prepare a wide range of dishes, it is convenient to use. The oven is made of cast iron; tin or sheet variations are not acceptable here; it will be needed not only for baking - the special design helps to quickly warm up the room immediately after kindling, if you open the door.

The oven in a Swedish oven is made of cast iron

The box is comparable in size to the size of the firebox; it is mounted in close proximity, but so as not to have direct contact with the flame. The optimal oven wall thickness is 4-6 mm.

Convenient extensions – a couch and a fireplace

Often the heating device is equipped with a fireplace on the front or back side (that is, it will be installed either in the kitchen or in the living room). The chimney can be combined or separate. In the first case, a single structure is formed, it is easier to assemble, and little material is needed. But you can heat it either with a stove or a fireplace. Separate chimneys are not as economical to build, but they allow you to use both heating methods at the same time.

Swede stoves with a stove bench are in great demand. This device is assembled from the back of the unit, its standard length is 7 bricks, width is 3 bricks. The smoke channels passing inside heat this podium when certain valves are opened. Typically, such oven models are not equipped with an oven.

Auxiliary shelves and niches

On the front side, 2 large shelves are built into Swedish models, both located above the hob. The lower shelf heats up more, the upper one uses only the heat transfer of the brick. If you close the niche opening with a wooden or metal door, a kind of low-temperature oven is formed.

Auxiliary shelves and niches in a Swedish oven are often used for drying berries and mushrooms

Simple models use straight horizontal floors. Arched structures look more interesting and can become the highlight of the interior, although they are difficult to assemble and increase the consumption of materials.

Furnace order

Before you start laying the stove yourself, complete a few simple preparatory steps.

Prepare a clay solution. It will consist of ground clay, some sand and clean water. The specific ratio of components is selected in accordance with the characteristics of the clay.

It is important that the finished solution has normal plasticity and a uniform structure. On average, it takes about 20 liters of mortar to lay hundreds of bricks