Needle marking
Choosing the right needle starts with the markings. Consider the markings on the package with needles: as a rule, the manufacturer is indicated at the top, below is the needle standard, next to the standard is the type, and even lower is the number.Domestic sewing machines are mainly equipped with needles of standard 130/705. The needle type is indicated in capital letters (or words), the number is indicated in numbers from 60 to 110.
The choice of needle number and type mainly depends on the density and type of material to be sewn.
First, let's figure out what type of needle to prefer.
Selecting a needle type
As mentioned above, the type of needle is recognized by the letter code in its name. For example, a needle called 130/705 H-LL is intended for sewing leather. Let's look at what types there are:Type H
The needles are universal. The needle point is slightly rounded. Used for sewing simple, picky fabrics. The needle itself looks like this:Type H-J (jeans)
Needles designed for thick fabrics. The needle point is sharpened to make it easier to penetrate the fabric. Used for sewing items made of dense, hard material (jeans, twill, tarpaulin, etc.) Photo of the needle:
Type H-M (microtex)
Thin and very sharp needles that are used for delicate piercing of microfiber, silk, taffeta and other thin, tightly woven fabrics. Microtex needle picture:
Type H-S (stretch)
Needles for elastic fabrics. The tip is rounded. Thanks to the special edge in the needle, the risk of skipped stitches is reduced. Designed for sewing from medium-weight knitwear and elastic fabrics. Photo of the needle tip for elastic fabrics:
Type H-SUK (jersey)
Also needles for elastic fabrics. The tip is round, spherical. Such a needle, pushing apart (rather than piercing) the threads of the fabric, passes between them, which prevents damage to the material. Used for sewing from thick knitwear, jersey and knitted fabrics.It is not recommended to sew ordinary fabrics with knitting needles - it increases the load on the machine. Photo of a needle with a rounded point:
Type 130/705H-L, H-LR and H-LL (leder leather)
Needles for skin. They have a special triangular sharpening that makes cutting through leather easier. However, when sewing regular fabrics, these needles will simply cut the material and ruin the fabric. This is what she looks like:
Type H-E (embroidery)
Needles for decorative embroidery. They have a special notch and a rounded tip. The eyelet hole is enlarged so as not to damage the fabric or special embroidery thread.Type H-Q (quilting)
Quilting needles. They have a rounded point, a special bevel and a small eyelet to avoid puncture marks and skipped stitches.Some manufacturers indicate only the universal name in the needle labeling: 130/705H, and below they indicate what type of fabric they sew with these needles. Example: 130/705H Microtex – needles for thin, densely woven fabrics (equal to type 130/705H-M).
Selecting a needle number or size
As already mentioned at the beginning, the number indicated in the name of the needle indicates the thickness (diameter) of the needle in hundredths of a millimeter (for example, No. 80 = 0.8 mm). We select the thickness of the needle depending on the type and density of the fabric. The table below will help you make a choice.| Material | Needle size | |
| Textile | Lightweight (material for shirts, blouses) | 60-70 |
| Medium (costume material) | 80-90 | |
| Heavy (coat material) | 100-110 | |
| Jeans fabric | Lightweight | 70-90 |
| Average | 100-110 | |
| Densely woven materials | Lightweight (microphase, silk, taffeta) | 60-80 |
| Medium (twill, canvas) | 100-110 | |
| Knitwear | Thin | 60 |
| Average | 70-80 | |
| Rude | 80-90 | |
| Elastic materials For example, highly elastic knitted fabric or Lycra fabric | Thin | 65-70 |
| Average | 80-90 | |
And finally: do not forget that needles have a limited service life. Change them regularly for new ones, ideally a new needle for each product.
In fact, you can distinguish needles by purpose by their packaging. It is not always possible to examine the point of a needle in a store and understand how one differs from another, and sellers are not always competent in such details.
On normal needles their system is always indicated. European-made needles for household sewing machines with flats, for example, those produced by the German company Schmetz, have a 130/705H system. Japanese-made needles, such as the popular Organ needles, may have similar flattened needles designated HAx1.
HAx1 and 130/705N are standard general purpose needles, absolutely identical and interchangeable.
This may be followed by one or more letters indicating the sharpening of the tip. These letters are deciphered as follows:
- 130/705H-J (jeans) - needles for denim and denim. The tip is additionally sharpened for better penetration into the material.
- 130/705H-S, -SUK (stretch, jersey, for Organ - SP) - needles for knitwear and knitted fabrics. The point is “blunted” - spherical. Points may vary in the degree to which they are spherical, but at least using any type of knit needle for sewing stretch materials will avoid skipped stitches compared to a regular 130/705H general purpose needle. You should not sew ordinary fabrics with knitting needles - the load on the machine will be higher.
- 130/705H-L, -LL (leather) - needles for leather. They have a triangular sharpening with “spatulas”, which makes it easier to cut through leather, but when sewing ordinary fabrics they will simply cut the fabric and cannot be used.
These are the main types of needles, it is enough to remember only their designations before purchasing.
Below are some more exotic ones:
- 130/705H-E (embroidery) - special needles for embroidery machines. They have a larger needle eye size, approximately the same as standard ones with 2 numbers larger. This makes it possible to thread various specific threads into such a needle, but the resource of such needles is less.
- 130/705H-Q, -QU (quilting) - special needles for quilting (quilting).
Recently the so-called "Teflon" needles treated with various titanium compounds. Depending on the type of specific processing, the advantages of such needles are a high coefficient of resistance to melting of synthetic fibers on the surface of the needle, a low coefficient of friction, and high wear resistance, which leads to an increase in the service life of the needles, a decrease in the temperature of the needle and a decrease in thread breakage. The temperature at which the layer begins to collapse is 400º C. Needles are used mainly for working on fabrics that have undergone special surface treatment: dyeing, impregnation, and other treatment to perform specific functions during care and wear. During operation, such needles may change color, which is not associated with a loss of quality. When installing a new Teflon needle into the machine, you should make a test stitch (50 cm) on a piece of fabric to avoid damaging the finished product. However, the cost of such needles is more than 10 times higher than usual and they are sold in few places.
An important characteristic of a needle is its number, which for European needles is indicated in the metric system (No. 90, 100, etc.), and for needles from other manufacturers it is simply a number (9, 11, 14, etc.) The most common number system is Organ- Singer. The correspondence is as follows: No. 75 - 11, No. 80 - 12, No. 90 - 14, No. 100 - 16.
Domestic needles for household machines produced by the Artinsky plant are marked 0220. The range of manufactured needles for industrial machines is hundreds of times wider.
One of the keys to a good stitch and a beautiful product is the right choice of needle for the sewing machine.
Needle life
Needles are quickly worn out consumables, so you should not skimp on them, since a low-quality needle or its mismatch can lead to thread breakage and the formation of gaps. Eventually, a worn or bent needle may simply break and pieces of it may fall into the hole in the needle plate and block the shuttle.
Before installing the needle, check for any nicks or roughness. To do this, pierce thin material with it, for example, nylon. If the needle hangs at the tip or forms puffs, it should be replaced.
As a rule, the needle needs to be changed after sewing each large product. This is especially true for projects with large volumes of embroidery or stitching, since a large number of stitches, that is, punctures that the needle makes, wears it out faster. To increase service life and improve sewing quality, needles can be chrome-plated, titanium coated, or entirely made of titanium alloy.
Types of needles
All needles for modern household machines belong to the system 130/705 H, Where:
- 130 - rod length
- 705 - presence of a flat on the flask
- H- notch above the eye of the needle
On household overlockers, system needles can be used EL×705.
Needle thickness
Further, there are discrepancies in the designation system, since needles vary in thickness and type of point. The correct needle thickness depends on both the threads chosen and the fabric being sewn. The density and type of fabric determine the thickness of the threads and needles, as well as the shape of the point.
The threads themselves also influence the choice of needle. So, for thick threads, choose a thicker needle so that the thread fits freely into the groove along the rod and does not fray when sewing. The composition of the threads should also be taken into account. For metallized and easily torn or brittle threads, you need a needle with an extended eye.
There are two systems for indicating needle thickness:
- European- from 55 to 130, thickness is measured in hundredths of a millimeter. For example, the thickness of a needle No. 60 is 0.6 mm, No. 100 is 1 mm
- American- from 6 to 21.
Manufacturers often indicate the number for both systems.
On double and triple needles, in addition to the thickness, the distance between the rods is also indicated in millimeters.
Special needles
Among other things, there are a number of needles for special purposes or with design features:
- needles for the visually impaired - have a slot on the side opposite the eyelet for simplified filling;
- hemstitching needles- have “wings”-blades on the sides: by spreading the threads in loose plain weave fabrics, such needles form an additional decorative effect;
- needles with a spring - used for stitching and darning without using a special foot;
- needles with two eyes - threaded with thin threads of different colors to achieve a melange effect
Needle types and characteristics
Universal
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Metaphile
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Jersey/Stretch
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Cordonnet (quilting)
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For skin
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xiphoid
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Denim
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Double-rod xiphoid
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Microtex
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Double rod
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Quilting
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Three-rod
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Embroidery
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Kirill Sysoev
Calloused hands never get bored!
Content
Among all the machine parts, sewing needles receive the heaviest load. The tool must be durable, high quality, and correctly selected for the type of fabric. It is easy for novice seamstresses to get confused among the variety of details, since manufacturers produce a large number of items with different characteristics. Knowing the markings and purpose of the tool will help you choose the right product for a specific purpose.
Classification of sewing needles
The tool is divided into two large groups - overlock and for household sewing machines. The main difference between them is the size of the eye; the overlock piece is larger. Other classification features: sharpening, ear shape, diameter, groove parameters, purpose for certain fabrics. To ensure that the user has a clear idea of the characteristics of the product, the manufacturer has introduced digital and letter markings.
The meaning of the numbers in the markings
The numbers indicate needle parameters for sewing machines. Many copies are digitally marked 130/705. She says that the part can be used in a household sewing machine; it has a flat bulb. Another marking takes the following form: No. 80/12. The number in the first place is the diameter of the needle according to the European metric. The value is indicated in hundredths of a millimeter; in this example, the diameter is 0.8 mm. The lower the indicator, the thinner the instrument. The second number is the same value, only in fractions of an inch (American system).
From the table below you will understand which numbers are suitable for different types of fabric:
|
Numbers, fractions of a millimeter |
Material |
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Highly elastic knits, lycra fabrics, other elastic materials |
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Lightweight fabrics for blouses and shirts |
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Calico, staple fabrics, synthetic materials, suiting fabric, thin fabric: chiffon, cambric, crepe de Chine |
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Jeans, light wool, heavy synthetics |
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Heavy wool |
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Burlap, coarse cloth, beaver |
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Leather, canvas, heavy materials - the number is selected individually |
Letter meaning
Letter markings indicate the shape, purpose and size of the tool. Manufacturers use the following designations:
|
Marking, name |
Execution |
Purpose |
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H, universal |
Slightly rounded |
Suitable for almost all materials |
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H-M, microtex |
Particularly thin, well-sharpened point |
Silk, taffeta, microfiber fabrics |
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H-S, stretch fabrics |
Rounded tip |
Knitwear, stretch synthetics |
|
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H-E, embroidery |
Ball point, large eye |
Embroidery on all materials with natural and synthetic threads |
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H-Q, quilting |
Thin point, special bevel |
Quilting and Stitching |
|
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Very thin, well sharpened point |
Thick fabrics: denim, canvas, twill, work clothes, tarpaulin |
||
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H-O, xiphoid |
Wide tool with wings (blades) |
Making hemstitches and openwork stitches |
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H-MET, embroidery or metallized thread sewing |
Large polished eyelet, groove to prevent thread delamination |
Fabrics of different densities |
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H-SUK, knitted items |
Ball point |
Thick knits, jersey, knitted materials |
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45° beveled cutting edge |
All types of natural and artificial leather, suede, film, oilcloth, plastic |
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H-ZWI, two-rod |
Two needles in one holder, distance between rods in mm: 1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 6.0; three types: H, J, E |
Decorative finishing, making tucks |
|
|
H-DRI, three-rod |
Three needles in one holder, distance between rods in mm: 2.5, 3.0 |
Decorative stitches |
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Large eye and groove for better passage of decorative thread |
Decorative stitches. Used to create seams with loose, disintegrating threads on light, medium and heavy fabrics. |
Types of needles for sewing machines
Residents of Moscow and St. Petersburg can easily choose the right tool - variety allows. If you live in a small town, online shopping will be your salvation. They can order parts of all sizes and shapes for any sewing machine. There is no need to worry about delivery by mail, because this is a group of goods that is difficult to damage. The cost of quality products is affordable, and if you are serious about sewing, you should not skimp on tools - a bad needle can seriously damage the fabric. Which manufacturers have become the favorites of professionals?
For knitwear
The tool should not cut the fabric, so it is advisable to choose samples with a round tip. The part does not pierce the threads, but passes between them. The best options for knitwear: H-S, H-SUK, H-SES. Popular model:
- Name: SCHMETZ Stretch 130/705 H-S.
- Price: 125 rubles.
- Characteristics: set of 5 copies – 2x65, 2x75, 1x90. Material of manufacture: nickel. The flask is cut, diameter 2.04 mm.
- Pros: excellent product quality, suitable for highly elastic knitted materials, standard bulb size for household sewing machines.
- Cons: none found.
The German company Schmetz is a leader in the production of goods in this category. Sewing needles for machines from this manufacturer break extremely rarely. Product ideal for knitwear:
- Name: SCHMETZ Jersey 130/705 H-SUK Combi.
- Price: 89 rub.
- Characteristics: set contains 5 needles – 1x70, 2x80, 1x90, 1x100. Made of nickel, steel color. The flask is cut, diameter 2.04 mm.
- Pros: Best choice for knitwear.
- Cons: none found.
Another titan in the production of needles for various purposes is the Japanese company ORGAN NEEDLE co. Ltd. Experienced seamstresses know that the Lady and the Organ emblem is a symbol of reliability. For dense materials, craftswomen use the following model:
- Name: Machine leather needle Organ Needles Leder Leather Cuir130/705 H-LL.
- Price: 270 rub.
- Characteristics: set contains 5 samples – 3x90, 2x100. Suitable for working with suede, pigskin, calfskin, goatskin.
- Pros: long service life, excellent stitch quality.
- Cons: there are factory defects with defective ears, there are many fakes on sale.
Another German company produces quality products. The Groz-Beckert brand (the name Grotz-Beckert is often found on the Internet) specializes in the creation of industrial needles. For leather the company has the following set:
- Name: Groz-Beckert DBx1 LR.
- Price: 190 rub.
- Characteristics: set includes 10 copies No. 90/14. The length from the beginning of the needle eye to the base is 33.8 mm. The thickness of the flask is 1.62 mm. The product is intended for upright machines, creates a diagonal seam with a slope to the right.
- Pros: low rate of breakage, thread breakage, stitch skipping, high cut quality, long service life.
- Cons: not suitable for home sewing machines.
For denim
The very sharp end of the H-J piece fits neatly into thick fabric without damaging the threads. The needlewomen liked this set of tools:
- Name: Prym Nadeln Jeans 130/705.
- Price: 271 rub.
- Characteristics: set includes 5 samples No. 90/14. Material of manufacture – steel, color – silver. The smoothing size corresponds to the needle size.
- Pros: the eyelet is well polished, which prevents damage to the thread, the parameters of the part ensure ideal loop formation and error-free threading.
- Cons: expensive.
There are needles on sale from domestic manufacturers. They are cheap, so needlewomen for whom sewing is a rare hobby buy them. Budget proposal:
- Name: Needle for Artie jeans.
- Price: 42 rub.
- Characteristics: set includes 5 samples No. 100. Manufacturing material – tool steel.
- Pros: inexpensive, works well.
- Cons: often break and bend.
For finishing stitch
Using a double or triple needle you can make beautiful finishing seams. The H-ZWI, H-DRI tool is not suitable for all machines, but only for those with a zigzag stitch (Singer, Brother, Janome, Juki and others), and it works exclusively in straight stitch mode. The following model is popular:
- Name: Double needles for Hemline knitwear.
- Price: 189 rub.
- Characteristics: the set contains one copy No. 80, the distance between the rods is 4 mm. Manufacturing material – steel. Suitable for creating decorative stitching on knitted, elastic fabric with thick pile. The tip is rounded.
- Pros: durable, does not damage fibers, suitable for all modern machines.
- Disadvantages: does not always make the perfect line, is whimsical in work.
Particularly beautiful stitches are obtained when using a triple needle. To make a decorative seam perfect, you need to choose a high-quality tool, for example:
- Name: SCHMETZ Universal Triple Needle H-DRI.
- Price: 169 rub.
- Characteristics: the set contains one universal specimen No. 80 with a distance between the rods of 2.5 mm. Material of manufacture: nickel.
- Pros: convenient plastic case for storage and carrying, high durability of the product.
- Cons: none found.
Double needle
A tool with two rods is designed for making decorative seams that do not experience heavy loads. If you need to embroider parallel elements of a design at the same time, a double needle is indispensable. Popular Tool:
- Name: Hemline Klasse double embroidery.
- Price: 151 rub.
- Characteristics: one copy No. 75 with a distance between the rods of 3 mm. Product length – 3.8 cm. Color: steel, red. Purpose: finishing with stitching after embroidering with polyester or rayon threads on thin fabrics.
- Pros: a large hole into which the thread can be easily threaded; it is convenient to store the product in a plastic case.
- Cons: requires reduced speed in operation.
Sales on this part are rare because the price is affordable. The price category of the following manufacturer is higher than that of other well-known brands, but the quality is consistent:
- Name: Prym Double Needle 130/705.
- Price: 271 rub.
- Characteristics: one copy No. 100, width between rods 6 mm. The point is rounded, intended for knitwear.
- Pros: durable, long lasting.
- Cons: none found.
With wings
Using a sword-shaped needle, you can create beautiful openwork stitches and hemstitching. Top seller in category:
- Name: SCHMETZ Hemstitch Needle 130/705 H WING.
- Price: 180 rub.
- Characteristics: the set contains one copy No. 100/16 with two longitudinal projections (wings) on the rod. Used on loosely woven materials.
- Pros: The sewing machine needle is of impeccable quality.
- Cons: none found.
A tool with wings creates an openwork pattern that looks especially impressive on fabrics with a loose weave structure: cambric, linen, cotton. Popular Product:
- Name: Hemline Klasse for hemstitching.
- Price: 215 rub.
- Characteristics: the set contains one copy No. 100/16. Product length – 3.9 cm.
- Pros: lasts a long time, durable, does not bend.
- Cons: expensive.
Self-threading needle
The tool is convenient for those who find it difficult to thread a needle. At the same level as the eyelet there is a slot through which the thread is passed, after which it enters the eyelet itself. The model is optimal for working with medium-weight fabrics. Self-threading needles for sewing machines are extremely rare on sale; there are no such sets in the lines of well-known manufacturers. If a person has difficulty threading, you can use the following tool:
- Name: Threader for Hemline 136 sewing machine.
- Price: 218 rub.
- Characteristics: the set includes two threaders - a needle threader (extra-long for overlockers and sewing machines), a loop threader (thin threader for overlockers).
- Pros: makes it easier to insert the thread into the eye.
- Cons: It is not clear from the manufacturer’s description how to use the device.
How to choose needles
Discounts on this group of products are extremely rare (unless the packaging is damaged), so you should not expect a reduction in price. Promotions are carried out by online stores, you need to carefully monitor them. If you're lucky, you can buy several products for the price of one. When purchasing, you need to focus on the following criteria:
- Type of sewing machine. Be sure to read the instructions for your device; it provides specific recommendations for selecting needles: numbers and markings are indicated. This point is especially important to observe when replacing working tools in overlockers - they have differences in the flasks.
- Fabric characteristics. When choosing a needle for sewing machines, follow the table that shows the purpose of each working tool. Different groups of fabrics require a tool of a specific shape and thickness.
- Manufacturer. The best brands are Schmetz, Organ, Groz-Beckert. By choosing products from well-known companies, you will not worry about their quality. Before starting work, you need to check the curvature of the tool and the absence of external defects (for example, loss of sharpening, incorrect position of the eye in relation to the groove, rust).
For household sewing machines
Needles for home devices have a flat flask - this facilitates the process of correct installation of the instrument. Do not attempt to use an industrial needle in a household device. If you find a part bent, do not try to straighten it. A high-quality product should not bend; when trying to straighten it intensively, the steel or nickel breaks - this is an indicator of good quality.
For industrial sewing machines
The round flask is the main difference from household models. There is also a difference in length and purpose. Industrial needles for sewing machines are produced by the following companies: Schmetz, Grotz-Beckert, Organ. They offer working tools for overlockers, embroidery machines, upright machines, cutters, button stitchers, rivets, coverstitch machines, machines for simulating hand stitching, for blind stitching, etc. Each device has its own markings, which you must pay attention to.
Payment by bank cards via the Internet (AVAILABLE ONLY WHEN SHIPPING FROM MOSCOW) or at the checkout for pickup.
Payment by electronic money.
Payment by bank card on the Internet:
We accept payments by bank cards of the following payment systems:
Visa, MasterCard, JCB,Diners Club.
Mobile payment systems:
Apple Pay, Google Pay and Samsung Pay.
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Only when ordering goods at the Moscow Amurskaya branch.
The option is not available when paying for other regional branches.
Unfortunately, not all cards VISA Electron, Cirrus/Maestro, VISA Plus are suitable for payment via the Internet.
However, some banks have begun issuing special “electron” cards of this type, with codes CVC2 and CVV2, which can be used to pay for orders via the Internet.
The CVV2/CVC2 code is a three-digit control number that is printed on the back of the bank card.
This number is usually printed in the upper right corner of the special signature strip.
Entering the number is necessary to ensure that the card is being used by the real owner.
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The procedure for paying for an order by bank card on the Internet:
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* Buyer's issuing bank does not support secure payment processing technology
3D-Secure, which is mandatory required by the international payment system VISA, Master Card;
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* The timeout for entering bank card data has expired (must be entered within
40 minutes);
* The entered data was not confirmed by the Buyer on the payment page, data format error, etc.1. Try to pay again, but not earlier than after 20 minutes;
2. Contact the issuing Bank for clarification;
3. If the Bank cannot resolve the problem, repeat the payment attempt using a card issued by another Bank.
Procedure for secure transfer of cardholder information and payments,
used in the company Welltex Moscow LLC:
Payment by bank cards is made by redirecting to the website of the Assist electronic payment system (www.assist.ru).
In the ASSIST system, payment security is ensured by using the SSL protocol to transfer confidential information from the client to the ASSIST system server for further processing.
Further transfer of information is carried out through closed banking networks of the highest degree of security.
Collection and processing of received confidential client data (card details, registration data, etc.) is carried out at the processing center, and not on the seller’s website.
Thus, Welltex Moscow LLC cannot obtain the client’s personal and banking data, including information about his purchases made in other stores. To protect information from unauthorized access at the stage of transmission from the client to the ASSIST system server, the SSL 3.0 protocol is used, the server certificate (128 bit) was issued by Thawte, a recognized center for issuing digital certificates. You can