Linoleic acid cosmetic properties. Combination of oils according to skin type. Traditional medicine

VEGETABLE OILS HAZARDOUS FOR HEALTH

The right column shows those fatty acids and their amounts in the composition, due to which the oil becomes not so useful, this is a summary table for the entire part of the post:

1. Rapeseed oil

Compound:

erucic acid – 50%,
linoleic acid – 23%,
α-linolenic – 12%.

The high percentage of linoleic acid in the oil makes it hazardous to health. Increases the risk of heart attack, provokes depression and inflammation, and increases the risk of cancer.

Rapeseed oil causes hypertension.

Despite improving blood cholesterol levels, rapeseed oil has been proven to reduce life expectancy.

Canola oil can cause damage to the heart muscle.

2. Corn oil

Compound:

stearic acid – 4%,
palmitic – 10%,
oleic – 40%,
linoleic – 45% .

The high percentage of linoleic acid in the oil makes it hazardous to health.

Corn oil increases metastasis in breast cancer

3. Camelina oil

Compound:

palmitic – 5.5%,
oleic – 22%,
linoleic – 20% ,
α-linolenic – 37%
γ-linolenic – 34.4% .

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4. Pine nut oil

Compound:

oleic – 15%,
linoleic – 64% ,
α-linolenic – 24%,
γ-linolenic – 10.5%.

Increases the risk of heart attack, provokes depression and inflammation, increases the risk of cancer and dramatically increases the mortality rate from heart attack.

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5. Rapeseed oil

Compound:

oleic – 27.8%,
linoleic – 33.9% ,
α-linolenic – 2.8%,
γ-linolenic – 30.4% .

The high percentage of linoleic and γ-linolenic (Omega-6) fatty acids in the oil together makes it hazardous to health. Increases the risk of heart attack, provokes depression and inflammation, increases the risk of cancer and dramatically increases the mortality rate from heart attack.

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6. Sunflower oil

Compound:

stearic – 4%,
palmitic – 8%,
oleic – 32%,
linoleic – 54% .

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7. Grapeseed oil

Compound:

stearic – 4.5%,
palmitic – 7.5%,
oleic – 20%,
linoleic – 6%,
arachidonic – 72.5% .

The high content of arachidonic acid, although it has some positive properties (improves glucose absorption, protects against liver cancer), but, in general, has an extremely negative effect on health and longevity, as it increases the overall level of inflammatory reactions.

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8. Sesame oil

Compound:

oleic – 41.3%,
linoleic – 44.4% .

The high percentage of linoleic fatty acid in oil makes it hazardous to health. Increases the risk of heart attack, provokes depression and inflammation, increases the risk of cancer and dramatically increases the mortality rate from heart attack.

Using sesame oil as a sunscreen reduces sun damage ultraviolet rays by 30%. But sun exposure is the main cause of wrinkles on the skin before the age of 30. Besides, sunburn cause skin cancer and reduce skin immunity.

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9. Poppy oil

Compound:

oleic – 30.2%,
linoleic – 62.3% .

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10. Watermelon seed oil

Compound:

stearic – 9%,
palmitic – 11%,
oleic – 22.5%,
linoleic – 62.5% .

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11. Quinoa oil

Compound:

stearic – 1%,
palmitic – 10%,
oleic – 25%,
linoleic – 52.5% ,
α-linolenic – 3.5%.

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12. Hemp oil

Compound:

stearic – 2.5%,
palmitic – 6%,
oleic – 11%,
palmitoleic – 0.2%,
linoleic – 55% ,
α-linolenic – 20%.

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13. Castor oil(castor oil)

palmitic – 90% .

Palmitic fatty acid increases the level of “bad cholesterol” and causes inflammation, which is unfavorable for the cardiovascular system. Palmitic acid also increases the risk of blood clots, causes pancreatic cell death and increases the risk of death from cancer.

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14. Oil walnut

Compound:

palmitic – 8%,
oleic – 24%,
linoleic – 50% ,
α-linolenic – 9%,
γ-linolenic – 6%.

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15. Mustard oil

Compound:

stearic – 0.5%,
palmitic – 0.2%,
oleic – 26%,
erucic acid – 50% ,
linoleic – 16.5%,
α-linolenic – 10%.

High levels of erucic fatty acid may cause diseasecardiovascular system and liver cirrhosis.

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16. Wheat germ oil

Compound:

stearic – 1%,
palmitic – 14%,
oleic – 28%,
linoleic – 44% ,
α-linolenic – 10%.

The high percentage of linoleic fatty acid in oil makes it hazardous to health.

Increases the risk of heart attack, provokes depression and inflammation, increases the risk of cancer and dramatically increases the mortality rate from heart attack.

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17. Cottonseed oil

Compound:

stearic – 2.5%,
palmitic – 25%,
oleic – 25%,
linoleic – 47.5% .

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18. Soybean oil

Compound:

palmitic – 5.5%,
myristic - 10.5%,
oleic – 24%,
linoleic – 49% ,
α-linolenic – 8%.

Soybean oil causes intra-abdominal obesity and inhibits pancreatic function.

A diet high in soybean oil has an adverse effect on bone structure.

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19. Pecan butter

Compound:

stearic – 2.1%,
palmitic – 6.5%,
oleic – 47%,
linoleic – 41% ,
α-linolenic – 2%.

The material is compiled based on information from articles by doctor D. Veremeev.

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This diagram is from another inf. source, I marked with a pink rectangle those names of oils whose harm is described in this part of the post. As you can see, they all have a large number of Omega-6 fatty acids (unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic).

Of the harmful oils described in this part of the post, the diagram below did not include: camelina, rapeseed, castor, cottonseed, pecan, poppy:

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Let's apply the acquired knowledge.

On the Internet you can find, for example, tables where the benefits and harms of oils are formally assessed by the amount of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids in the composition.
But we now know that with the quantity linoleic omega-6 acid (second green column) more than 20%-40% oil becomes harmful, that is, oils with amount of linoleic acid: rapeseed (20.4%), soybean (53%), corn (44%) with a large amount of linoleic acid are harmful, despite the fact that the total amount of unsaturated fatty acids in these types of oils is large:

One of the main functions of the skin is barrier. The protective layer of the skin consists of keratinized epidermal cells, fastened together by special bridges (desmosomes), forming intercellular gaps. The space between them is filled with a lipid layer.

Penetration of various substances through the stratum corneum, both water- and fat-soluble, is possible only in two ways: through the intercellular spaces or through the ducts of the sebaceous glands (transfollicular path). But the main route is through intercellular spaces.

Responsible for the permeability of the stratum corneum of the skin lipid barrier is a clearly structured mass consisting mainly of lipids and proteins, which represent the previously mentioned desmosomes.

The chemical composition of intercellular lipids is unique and absolutely does not correspond to the composition of sebum lipids. Lipids in the stratum corneum are synthesized in keratinocytes - epithelial cells - as they mature. At the level of the transition of the granular layer to the stratum corneum, the precursors of these lipids are released into the intercellular space, where, with the participation of enzymes, the assembly of the lipid layers that make up the barrier begins.

The lipids of the stratum corneum are organized into extended and continuous layers, each of which represents a classic biological membrane (for more details, see the blog). The layers are superimposed on each other, and the role of the layer between them is played by water, which is constantly in motion. Its molecules move and, reaching the very top layer, evaporate. Evaporation occurs slowly with the barrier intact. The composition of the lipid barrier is represented by 3 types of lipids (fats and fat-like substances):

ceramides are substances of natural origin, solid or waxy substances of lipid nature;
cholesterol is a natural fatty alcohol that plays an important role in the life of the body, is part of all cell membranes in tissues and organs, is a precursor of corticosteroid and sex hormones, bile acids, vitamin D, etc.;
free fatty acids.

Let's talk about the latter.

In the lipid barrier, fatty acids are present both as part of ceramides and in the free state. An important characteristic of fatty acids is saturation, i.e. presence of double bonds in a molecule. Fatty acids containing two or more double bonds are called polyunsaturated, and the more such acids there are in the oil, the more liquid it is.

Saturated – fatty acids without double bonds, so they have a solid consistency. They are not subject to rapid oxidation, contribute to the hardening of the lipid layer, therefore they remain on the surface, acting as emollients (softening agents). Thus, the quantity and quality of saturated fatty acids determine the viscosity of the fat medium.

It’s difficult to overestimate the role vitamin F, which is a complex of unsaturated fatty acids: linoleic (Omega-6), linolenic (Omega-3) and arachidonic (Omega-6) in the “work” of our skin. Shortagevitamin F is expressed in peeling, dryness and redness of the skin. The uniqueness of these fatty acids is that, although they are not synthesized in the body, they are involved in many metabolic processes. In particular linoleic acid necessary for the formation of a proper epidermal barrier, therefore When it is deficient, the skin becomes dry and flaky. Linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids are substances for the production of hormone-like substances that regulate inflammatory processes - prostaglandins, therefore, with a lack of these acids (especially linolenic acid), the skin becomes prone to inflammation.

Feeding the skin with vitamin F from the inside (inclusion in the diet) and outside (applied to the skin) can correct problems such as dryness, flaking of the skin, and its tendency to inflammation [1].

The studies show that a mixture of lipids, which form the basis of the lipid barrier of the skin, is much more effective in maintaining the moisture-holding capacity of the skin and restoring the lipid barrier in case of external damage than each of the components of the mixture separately or a mixture of lipids, albeit similar in composition and properties, but still different from them. Moreover, the greatest effectiveness of the action of a mixture of lipids is observed in their natural proportion, characteristic of normal healthy skin, in contrast to a mixture of the same components in non-optimal proportions.

The grouping is mainly based on the characteristics of fatty acids. Here we consider the groups of the most basic acids: oleic, palmitic, linoleic and linolenic. Of which linolenic acids are considered as an additive, and the rest form the basis of the formulation. Of course, in your recipes you can focus on a certain group of acids - oleic or linolenic.

“Photostability” and oxidation stability

The resistance of fats and oils to oxidation is determined by the location, geometric configuration and number of double bonds: for oxidation in normal conditions a double bond is required. It has been established that the higher the degree of unsaturation of a fatty acid, the lower its apparent oxidative stability. For linolenic acid, which has three double bonds, the relative rate of oxidation is twice as high as for linoleic acid, which has two double bonds. Oleic acid, which has one double bond (monounsaturated), is the most stable of the three fatty acids considered.

Note for some oils - » do not use in the sun" refers to oils with a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids. Light and heat can accelerate the process of oxidation and decomposition of oils with polyunsaturated fatty acids on the surface and inside the skin; toxic breakdown products can damage cell membranes and lead to the formation of age spots, provoke sun allergies, and skin irritations. Oils suitable for use in sunscreens and for use in the sun are listed below according to the designation “Sun exposure”, which means their possible use in cosmetic products, when applied, can be exposed to intense sun for a long time. sunlight(extended exposure to the sun, beach, etc.).

It has been proven that, from a cosmetic point of view, day care products (with a high content of vegetable oils susceptible to oxidation) are better stabilized by the addition of base lipids, such as jojoba, marula, and meadowfoam oils. These oils extend the shelf life of polyunsaturated fatty acids and allow the creation of compositions that do not cause skin irritation. Very unstable oils are best used only in night products to minimize oxidative stress on the skin.

Brief overview of different groups of vegetable oils

1.Stabilizing base oils: group B-0 (accounts for 20-50% of the mixture):

The most resistant to oxidation are oils that contain large amounts of saturated fatty acids.

Thanks to its composition, jojoba oil is universal, very stable to oxidation, is not affected by bacteria, does not leave a greasy feeling, and thus creates a very long-lasting protective effect. It can be used as a base or as an additive to an oil mixture.
Meadowfoam oil can essentially be described as jojoba
Squalane (vegetable) usually obtained from olive oil is a stable emollient with good spreadability and low viscosity. Can be used as a base or as an additive to an oil mixture
Marula oil is extremely resistant to oxidation
Sesame oil contains a very strong antioxidant, sesamol, which is why it is called “sesame oil.”
Capryl/caprylic triglycerides are a mixture of capric and caprylic acids that are obtained from coconut or palm oil. An emollient that does not cause irritation, has good spreadability and high oxidative stability.

2. Caring base oils: oils of groups B-1, B - 2, B-3 (50-70% of the mixture)

Group B-1 - oils with dominant oleic acid, stable to oxidation, protect the skin, light or slightly oily skin: apricot kernels, avocado, hazelnut, camellia japonica, macadamia, almond, olive, sunflower high oleic, buriti, safflower, avocado, Brazil nut oil, plum kernels, peach kernels, moringa , papaya.
Group B-2 - oils with a balanced ratio of mono- and polyunsaturated acids. Monovariants can be used: argan, baobab, rice bran oil, sesame oil, cherry pits.
Group B-3 - oils with dominant linoleic acid, are absorbed more easily and provide less fat: amaranth, safflower, poppy seed oil, soybean oil, sunflower, grape seed, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, green coffee, corn, hemp, pumpkin, cedar, amla oil extract.

3. Active oils: oils of groups A1 and A2 (up to 10% of the mixture)

This group includes oils with a high proportion of polyunsaturated, partly rare, fatty acids. Such oils are very prone to oxidation, but you should not refuse them, because... they are the ones who exhibit pronounced cosmetic properties- restoring and activating. Depending on the dominant fatty acid, these oils belong to groups A-1, A-2 and A-3. They are usually taken in a small safe dosage, about 5-10%, and are recommended to be used at night or on days when you do not go outside.

Group A-1 – oils with a predominance of alpha-linolenic acid(is a precursor of prostaglandins and can increase the level of prostaglandin E in the body, helps retain moisture in the skin and hair, is recommended for the care of dry skin, has anti-inflammatory properties, and is recommended for people suffering from skin diseases): hemp oil, elderberry oil, cranberry seed oil, sacha-inchi, sea buckthorn oil, flaxseed, camelina, mustard, soybean, rosehip oil, strawberry seed oil, raspberry seed oil.
Group A-2 – oils with a predominance of gamma-linolenic acid(substances formed from gamma-linolenic acid have an anti-inflammatory effect, strengthens the structure of cell membranes, recommended for dry skin with impaired barrier properties): borage, seeds black currant, evening primrose, cranberry seed oil, neem.
Group A-3 – oils containing specific and rare acids: pomegranate seed oil, sea buckthorn oil, black cumin oil, laurel, tamanu.

4. Vegetable butters: oils group PB-1 and PB-2 (partially belong to group B-0), (up to 10-30%).

Group PB-1 – oils with a high content of saturated long-chain fatty acids and with a solid consistency at room temperature . The most famous among them: shea, mango, cupuaçu. They generally have a higher proportion of non-saponifiables. Protect , have a greasy tactile sensation and are absorbed slowly but deeply into the skin. They can also be used for their sensory properties, i.e. they add fullness to the emulsion and make it pleasant to apply: cocoa butter, cupuaçu, mango, shea butter, palm oil.
G group PB-2. This group includes oils that have a high content of saturated acids with short and medium chains. They distribute well, give a light, non-greasy feeling in emulsions and even out the tactile sensations in the emulsion. Oils of this group penetrate quickly, but only superficially into the stratum corneum of the skin: coconut oil, Monoi de Tahiti, babbasu.

List of used literature

Based on “New Cosmetology” by Margolin, Hernandez.
M. T. Houtsmuller, Progress in Lipid Reseach, 20,219 (1981)
Mao-Quing, K. R. Feingold, P. M. Elias, Arch. Dermatol., 129,728-738 (1993)
“Combination of vegetable oils (Olionatura ®)” Translation of the work by H. Käser “Öle kombinieren:Kombinationsstrategien”

Vegetable oil occupies one of the places of honor in the kitchen of every housewife. Moreover, the most popular product is obtained from. Sunflower oil contains vitamins and minerals that the body needs for normal functioning. This product stimulates metabolism and has a beneficial effect on intestinal function, nervous system, helps improve memory. Variety sunflower oil is high oleic. We will tell you in our article what it is, what its advantages are over the usual one, and what benefits and harms it has for the body.

What is high oleic oil?

It is a valuable sunflower processing product. It’s hard to imagine modern cooking without it. Depending on the content of fatty acids, sunflower seeds and the oil that is produced from them are of 4 types: high oleic, medium oleic, high linoleic, high stearic. The raw materials for each of them are obtained using traditional breeding methods.

High oleic oil is a product with a high content of oleic monounsaturated acid (80-90%). constitute at least 10% of the volume. According to its characteristics, this type of oil can be compared with olive oil, despite the fact that its price is 3-4 times lower. High oleic oil has a neutral taste, light yellow color (almost clear) and contains no trans fats. It has been used in the food industry for more than 10 years.

Advantages over regular sunflower oil

High oleic oil has significant advantages over conventional oil obtained in the traditional way from sunflower seeds:

The main thing for which this oil is valued is its high content of oleic acid, the amount of which in the composition reaches 90%.
High oleic oil contains even more oleic acid than olive oil (80-90% versus 71%) and regular sunflower oil (80-90% versus 35%).
This product is ideal for frying, unlike most other types of oils. The fact is that it does not form trans fats, which are harmful to human health.
It has a neutral taste. Thanks to this property, this product is suitable for people who do not like the taste of unrefined sunflower oil and olive oil.
Due to the content of polyunsaturated Omega-3 acids, the shelf life of this product is longer than that of other types of vegetable oils.

In general, we can say that a product with a high content of oleic acid can be ranked higher in nutritional value than olive oil, although its cost is an order of magnitude lower.

High oleic oil: benefits and harm to the body

Now let's talk about beneficial properties this product. There are many more of them than traditional sunflower.

High oleic vegetable oil is beneficial for the body in the following ways:

high content of vitamin E, which is considered a natural antioxidant that destroys free radicals, which often cause the formation of cancerous tumors;
low content of saturated fats harmful to the body (10%);
Omega-3 acid, which it contains, helps reduce cholesterol levels in the body, strengthens the immune system, and protects cell membranes and internal organs from destruction;
Omega-9 acid normalizes heart function and strengthens blood vessels;
beneficial effects on the functioning of the intestines and the entire digestive system;
The presented oil is absorbed by the body faster than other types, therefore it is considered more useful.

Only excessive consumption of vegetable oil can cause harm to the body. Otherwise, it can be called an ideal product both for consumption in its pure form and for frying.

Popular oil manufacturers

The most famous producers of high oleic oil in Russia are:

Refined deodorized high-oleic premium oils "Aston". The manufacturer indicates on the packaging that this product has 4 times more frying cycles than regular sunflower. The smoke point is 260 °C.
High-oleic oil of the Natural Products brand, Krasnodar Elite, has a neutral taste, contains 80% Omega-9 acids and can withstand up to 10 hours of frying. All this information is indicated on the manufacturer's packaging.
"Oley of Lefkadia" - produced by cold pressing from high-oleic sunflower varieties.
"Rossiyanka" is produced in the city of Atkarsk, Saratov region. It has the ability to retain taste and color during heat treatment 3 times more than other types of oil.

I am glad to welcome you to my website Youth of face, body and soul. Today on the agenda in the section Vitamins for youth And Benefit in everything composition of vegetable oil. What's in composition of vegetable oil includes a large list of various vitamins: E, C and micro- and macroelements (potassium, sodium, calcium, iron...) everyone knows or at least guesses. Nowadays it has become very fashionable to use the following terms in relation to fats: Omega 3,6,9 fatty acids. Few people know the difference between these three numbers, but many strive to eat these Omegas more often. The common belief is that all Omegas live in fatty sea fish and in olive oil. But is olive oil really the best and only source of Omega 3, 6, 9? fatty acids. I present to your attention the rating of the usefulness of vegetable oil, the composition of which was analyzed from the point of view of its fatty acid content.

First, a little theory. Have fun exploring the differences in structure fatty acids, their molecules, bonds, relationships with each other, only a true chemist can, so take my word for it: unsaturated fatty acid have a positive effect on the structures of the walls of blood vessels, improve them, ensure the functioning of immune system on optimal level, do not allow cholesterol to settle on the walls of blood vessels and accumulate in the body, actively participate in the synthesis of various hormones and much more, keeping us youthful, healthy and beautiful for decades. Normal metabolism in the body is ensured, among other things, by unsaturated fatty acids, and the membrane of any cell without them will not form at all.

Now let’s remember three concepts in the composition of vegetable oil:

Omega-9 fatty acids – oleic acid.
Omega-6 fatty acids are linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid.
Omega-3 fatty acids – alpha-linolenic acid.

Omega-9 fatty acids.

Oleic acid lowers total cholesterol levels, while increasing the level of “good” cholesterol and reducing the level of “bad” cholesterol in the blood), promotes the production of antioxidants. Prevents atherosclerosis, thrombosis, aging. If the composition of vegetable oil contains a lot of oleic acid, then fat metabolism is activated (helping to lose weight), the barrier functions of the epidermis are restored, and more intense moisture retention in the skin occurs. Oils are well absorbed into the skin and actively promote the penetration of other oils into its stratum corneum. active ingredients.

Vegetable oils, which contain a lot of oleic acid, oxidize less and remain stable even at high temperatures. Therefore, they can be used for frying, stewing and canning. According to statistics, residents of the Mediterranean region who constantly consume olive oil and avocados, nuts and olives themselves are much less likely to suffer from cardiovascular diseases, diabetes and cancer.

Almond – 83%
Olive – 81%
Apricot - 39-70%

For comparison, sunflower oil contains 24-40%.

Omega-6 fatty acids.

They are part of cell membranes and regulate the level of various cholesterols in the blood. They treat multiple sclerosis, diabetes, arthritis, skin diseases, nervous diseases, protecting nerve fibers, cope with premenstrual syndrome, maintain smoothness and elasticity of the skin, strength of nails and hair. If they are deficient in the body, the metabolism of fats in tissues is disrupted (then you will not be able to lose weight), and the activity of intercellular membranes is disrupted. Also a consequence of a lack of Omega-6 are liver diseases, dermatitis, vascular atherosclerosis, and the risk of cardiovascular diseases increases. The synthesis of other unsaturated fatty acids depends on the presence of linoleic acid. If it does not exist, then their synthesis will stop. Interestingly, when consuming carbohydrates, the body's need for foods containing unsaturated fatty acids increases.

safflower – 56 – 84%
nut – 58 – 78%
sunflower – 46 – 72%
corn - 41-48

For comparison, in olive oil it is 15%.

Omega-3 fatty acids.

Omega 3 is vital for normal brain function. With their help, there is an influx of energy necessary to transmit signal impulses from cell to cell. Maintaining mental abilities at a decent level and the ability to retain information in memory, actively use your memory - all this is impossible without alpha-linolenic acid. Omega-3s also have protective and anti-inflammatory functions. They improve the functioning of the brain, heart, eyes, lower cholesterol levels, affect joint health, and are excellent antioxidants. They improve the condition of eczema, asthma, allergies, depression and nervous disorders, diabetes, hyperactivity in children, arthrosis, cancer...

flaxseed - 44%
cotton - 44%
camelina – 38%
cedar - 28%

For comparison - in olive oil - 0%

Results.

Omega-3 and Omega-6 have one very important drawback– when fats are heated and interact with air, they actively oxidize. A large number of toxic oxides and free radicals are formed, which negatively affect the entire body. Therefore, if the composition of vegetable oil is rich in Omega-3 and Omega-6 - fry You can't use this oil. And it should be stored in a dark, cool place in a closed container.

I just don’t understand why in all the stores bottles of sunflower oil are on shelves under light bulbs! Pay attention to expiration dates! Fry only in olive oil!

The adult human body can synthesize only Omega-9 itself. And Omega-3 and Omega-6 can only be supplied with food.

Vegetable oils, the composition of which includes all Omegas.

Omega-9/Omega-6/Omega-3.

Grapeseed oil 25/70/1
Kedrovoe 36/ 38/18-28
Hemp 6-16/65/15-20
Sesame 35-48/37-44/45-57
Linen 13-29/15-30/44
Sea buckthorn 23-42/32-36/14-27
Nut 9-15/58-78/3-15
Sunflower 24-40/46-72/1
Ryzhikovoe 27/14-45/20-38
Soybean oil 20-30/44-60/5-14
Cotton 30-35/42-44/34-44

Since catching the balance of consumption of the necessary fatty acids not very simple, most The best decision- this is diversity. Don't stop at one oil, try others! Fans of olive oil, please note that it contains little Omega-6, and no Omega-3, which the body cannot synthesize itself. Diversify your diet!

Consumption rate vegetable fat- at least 30 grams per day.

P.S. If you abuse Omegas, you can earn yourself:

high blood pressure
vasoconstriction
decreased immunity
activation of inflammatory processes

Yes, and I also want to clarify, the article discussed composition of vegetable oil, which can be consumed orally. There are more valuable oil compositions that can only be applied to the skin.

I continue to talk about the composition of cosmetics and what components you need to pay attention to. Today I’ll tell you how oils work in cosmetics, how to choose them and which ones are right for your skin!

The post is long, but I advise you to read it carefully! Understanding the effects of oils will help answer many questions that arise for us, conscious consumers. But first an axiom:

Every skin type needs oils in cosmetics!

Absolutely any skin type needs oils, including oily skin! If dry skin receives hydration, protection and starts the renewal process from oils, then oily skin compensates for the lack of linoleic acid, leading to chronic inflammation, acne and dermatitis!

Our skin is made up of a lipid barrier, which is based on triglycerides of fatty acids and other lipophilic components (ceramides, cholesterols, etc.). In healthy skin, triglycerides are in optimal balance; they form the barrier layer and are responsible for restoring cell membranes of the lipid layer and protecting it.

Healthy skin contains an optimal ratio of fatty acids.

What happens if, as we age, the skin stops producing certain fatty acids or their balance is disrupted?

The skin becomes dry or dehydrated, its protective barrier is broken and holes form through which moisture quickly evaporates and germs and allergens penetrate. And the more we start smearing ourselves with expensive Vaseline creams, the more we aggravate the problems.

The skin needs only one thing - to replenish the lack of fatty acids and restore the damaged barrier!

Just remember this and let's move on. Oils are unique in that, on the one hand, they are emollients, and on the other, they participate in the nutrition of the skin and affect all its processes. That is, oils are the real active ingredients in cosmetics!

How do carrier oils work on the skin?

1. They are used as emollients, that is, they cover the skin with a blanket and create a barrier that prevents damage to the top layer of skin. This barrier serves as protection for the skin and gives it the time it needs to recover. Moreover, unlike mineral oils, they do not create a greenhouse film that makes it difficult for the skin to breathe and causes harm.

That is oils prevent moisture loss from the skin using physiological methods.

2. Oils fill the spaces between dead skin cells and make the surface smooth. By increasing the adhesive force, they give a flatter shape to the curved edges of individual scales. This results in the skin becoming softer, smoother, without roughness, and therefore has a greater ability to reflect light. At the same time, the skin's protective barrier is strengthened and skin looseness is removed.

Oils smooth the surface of the skin and make the barrier stronger.

3. Due to their lipophilic structure and high content of unsaturated acids, oils are conductors for the delivery of active components to the deeper layers of the skin.

Therefore, oils are used to deliver beneficial supplements.

4. Oils themselves have biological activity, serve as a bioavailable source of essential fatty acids (which the body does not produce itself) and replenish their deficiency. Oils also supply carotenoids, vitamins and phytosterols to the skin, revitalizing aging and tired skin.

Oils themselves serve as useful additives in cosmetics.

Oils in cosmetics are a source of essential acids

All vegetable oils consist of 95% saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, which form the basis of the oil. The remaining 5% are valuable sterols and phytosterols, tocopherols, terpenes, carotenoids and other benefits.

Each oil has its own unique fatty acid composition (the so-called fatty acid profile), which can be used to determine how it will affect the skin.

Almost all oils are a source of beneficial essential acids that are not produced in the skin and enter the body from the outside. We all know them, these are unsaturated acids called omegas.

It has long been proven that the lack of essential fatty acids in the body is directly related to the deterioration of the skin.

Essential fatty acids include omega-3 (alpha-linolenic acid), omega-6 (linoleic and gamma-linolenic acid), omega-7 (palmitoleic acid) and omega-9 (oleic acid).

Each unsaturated acid plays its own role and affects physiological processes in the skin.

I have sorted out all the essential fatty acids that are present in oils and isolated the essential oils with maximum content of this fatty acid. Let's start with linoleic acid as the most important for healthy skin!

Linoleic acid in cosmetics

Linoleic acid (omega 6) restores the skin barrier, reduces transdermal water loss, has an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect.

Linoleic acid is an essential component of the lipids of the stratum corneum of the skin; it is part of ceramides 1 and ensures the strength of the skin barrier. In healthy skin, linoleic acid is in balance with oleic acid, the optimal value is 1: 1.4

With a deficiency of linoleic acid in the body, our protective layer ceases to be a barrier, it becomes permeable to various microbes and allergens. Leather loses ability to retain moisture, water loss accelerates, the skin becomes dry and rough. Areas of thickening of the skin (hyperkeratosis) appear along with dehydration.

Juvenile acne and late-life acne also associated with a lack of linoleic acid in the skin. Due to the low content of linoleic acid in the skin, the synthesis of ceramides is disrupted, which leads to damage to the skin barrier and creates excellent conditions for the proliferation of acne-causing bacteria.

Oils with linoleic acid ideal for oily and acne-prone skin, but also significantly improve dehydrated skin by restoring the barrier. Balanced mixtures are obtained when combined with gamma-linolenic acid (for oily skin) and oleic acid (for dry skin).

Thus, studies have shown that the combination of linoleic acid with gamma-linolenic acid significantly improves neurodermal skin diseases, increases skin hydration and promotes the healing of eczema. It also reduces skin keratinization.

Oils in cosmetics with a high content of linoleic acid

Evening Primrose Oil (75% Linoleic Acid)
Grapeseed oil (72% linoleic acid)
Sunflower oil (65% linoleic acid)
Hemp oil (56% linoleic acid)
Blackcurrant oil (47% linoleic acid)
Rose moschetta oil (45% linoleic acid)
Borage oil (37% linoleic acid)
Sea buckthorn oil (34% linoleic acid)
Argan oil, baobab (33% linoleic acid)

Alpha-linoleic acid in cosmetics

Alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) rejuvenates the skin and accelerates its renewal!

Alpha-linolenic acid supports skin regeneration and accelerates the process of cell renewal, stimulates metabolism. It refers to the components which allows communication between cells(the same group includes peptides, retinoids and niacinamide).

These oils are ideal for anti-aging care, for the care of mature and pale skin with a tired complexion. Oils with a high content of alpha-linolenic acid are considered the most active and effective means for skin care among all oils.

Oils in cosmetics with a high content of alpha-linolenic acid

Cranberry oil (33% alpha-linolenic acid)
Rose Moschetta Oil (32% Alpha Linolenic Acid)
Sea buckthorn oil (31% alpha-linolenic acid)
Hemp oil (16% alpha-linolenic acid)
Blackcurrant oil (13% alpha-linolenic)

Gamma-linoleic acid in cosmetics

Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, omega-6) in cosmetics suppresses inflammation and treats skin diseases.

Gamma-linolenic acid is a precursor to prostaglandins, which play an important role in combating inflammatory processes in the skin. It is used as an anti-inflammatory substance and provides intercellular communication, restoring the damaged skin barrier.

When applied to the skin, gamma-linolenic acid is used for the treatment of inflammation, itching and many skin diseases, including eczema, psoriasis, acne, etc. It is also used internally for chronic diseases skin and exacerbations.

This acid is present in high quantities in only three oils and is used to care for oily and inflamed skin.

Oils in cosmetics with a high content of gamma-linolenic acid

Borage oil (21% gamma-linolenic acid)
Blackcurrant oil (14% gamma-linolenic acid)
Evening Primrose Oil (9% Gamma Linolenic Acid)

Oleic acid in cosmetics

Oleic acid (omega-9) moisturizes the skin and increases its permeability, transport for active components

Oleic acid gives hydration and a feeling of softness to the skin, promotes the penetration of other oils into the stratum corneum. It serves as an enhancer, that is makes the skin lipid barrier more permeable to other active agents substances. Oleic acid in healthy skin is in balance with linoleic acid, in a ratio of 1.4:1

Unlike oils with linoleic acid (which penetrate quickly but shallowly), oleic acid penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin, but not too quickly, making it an ideal base for massage mixtures. In formulations it gives a feeling of moisturized, nourished skin and is suitable for intensive moisturizing serums and creams.

Oils in cosmetics with high oleic acid content

Camellia Oil (84% Oleic Acid)
Hazelnut oil (77% oleic acid)
Olive oil (72% oleic acid)
Marula oil, almond oil (70% oleic acid)
Apricot oil (68% oleic acid)
Avocado oil (60% oleic acid)
Macadamia Oil (57% Oleic Acid)
Argan oil (46% oleic acid)

Omega 7 palmitoleic acid in cosmetics

Palmitoleic acid (omega-7) regenerates dry and mature skin, restores its elasticity!

Palmitoleic acid makes up about 4% of its own lipids and is considered simply very valuable and beneficial for the skin! It is found in only a few oils, and most of all it is found in sea buckthorn. Like oleic acid, Omega-7 penetrates into the deep layers of the skin.

It activates regeneration, restores the skin and its elasticity, and is used in moisturizing and nourishing formulations for the care of mature and dry skin and hair.

According to Japanese studies, the content of palmitoleic acid in sebum in women after 20 years decreases by almost half by age 50. Therefore, it is necessary to compensate for its deficiency in the skin, from time to time drinking supplements with omega-7 and using oils with a high content in cosmetics.

Oils in cosmetics with a high content of palmitoleic acid

Sea buckthorn oil (33% palmitoleic acid)
Macadamia oil (20% palmitoleic acid)
Avocado oil (9% palmitoleic acid)

Erucic acid in cosmetics

Erucic acid (omega-9) is considered toxic when consumed internally!

Erucic acid, found in oils, is also a member of the omega-9 family. This acid is found in high quantities only in rapeseed oil, although a variety with a low acid content is already being developed. It is believed that erucic acid is not broken down and accumulates in the body, so its conditional maximum limit is 5%.

At internal use erucic acid possibly causes irreversible changes in the myocardium, but has no significance for cosmetology.

But since Borage oil has a small content of erucic acid, for internal use of oils for atopic dermatitis and other diseases, it is better to opt for evening primrose oil.

Oils in cosmetics containing erucic acid

Rapeseed oil (46% erucic acid)
Borage oil (2.6% erucic acid)

Lauric acid in cosmetics

All other fatty acids in oils are saturated. They are stable and not subject to rapid oxidation, are resistant to rancidity and have a protective effect on the skin, forming a breathable film on the skin or a protective screen.

Lauric acid has an antimicrobial effect, myristic acid clogs pores!

Babassu oil and the well-known coconut oil have the highest content of lauric acid. Lauric acid has strong antimicrobial and antifungal activity, These oils spread very well over the skin. and are quickly absorbed. In creams they give a feeling of smoothness and softness to the skin.

But these same two oils contain a high content of myristic acid, which has a comedogenic effect and can cause clogging of pores. And if pure coconut oil is not suitable for the skin of the face, then you can use it completely calmly for the body and hair!

Oils in cosmetics with a high content of lauric acid

Coconut Oil (48% Lauric Acid, 19% Myristic Acid)
Babassu Oil (40% Lauric Acid, 15% Myristic Acid)

Stearic acid in cosmetics

Stearic acid restores and protects the skin from external influences!

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid and makes up about 10% of the stratum corneum and sebaceous gland lipids. Oils with a high content of stearic acid have a screening effect (forms a protective film), restore the hydro-lipid layer and protect the skin from external influences, and give a good sliding effect in the emulsion.

Stearic acid is generally well tolerated by the skin, but can also cause comedogenic effects, some associate it with the acid’s ability to strengthen cell membranes inside the lipid layer and make them less flexible, which makes it difficult for sebaceous secretions to flow out of the pores.

Oils in cosmetics with a high content of stearic acid

Shea butter (45% stearic acid)
Mango butter (42% stearic acid)
Cocoa butter (35% stearic acid)
Cupuaçu butter (33% stearic acid)

Palmitic acid in cosmetics

Palmitic acid protects and is suitable for dry and mature skin!

Palmitic acid makes up 37% of the fatty acids in the stratum corneum of the skin. Its content decreases with age, so palmitic oils are often used to care for mature skin. Just like stearic acid, it forms a thin but lighter protective film on the skin and restores damage.

Oils with palmitic acid are used as a protective barrier for dry skin and for the care of mature skin. For oily skin, it is better to choose oils with a low palmitic acid content (up to 13%) or use oils in mixtures.

Oils in cosmetics with a high content of palmitic acid

Cocoa butter (27% palmitic acid)
Baobab oil (22% palmitic acid)
Avocado oil (19% palmitic acid)
Wheat germ oil (19% palmitic acid)
Argan oil, olive oil, marula oil (13% palmitic acid)
Soybean oils, babassu (11% palmitic acid)
Borage oils, sesame, coconut (9% palmitic acid)

Three oils with unique fatty acid compositions

There are three other oils with a unique fatty acid composition that are not found anywhere else.

This jojoba oil and limnanthes alba oil, which contain 70% gadoleic acid, which is found only in them and provides the oils with ultra-high stability to daylight, rancidity and heating.

And pomegranate seed oil, which is 72% composed of rare punicic acid, unsaturated conjugated linolenic acid CLnA, which in Lately began to be called rare omega-5.

Pomegranate seed oil not only has an anti-inflammatory effect, but also accelerates skin regeneration and affects collagen synthesis.

Tocopherols and carotenoids in vegetable oils

In addition to valuable omega acids, many vegetable oils contain high amount of natural vitamin E in the form of tocopherols and tocotrienols.

It is believed that olive oil is very rich in vitamin E, but in fact the first place is occupied by sea buckthorn oil, the level of tocopherols in which is simply off the charts and depends on the method of obtaining the oil, pressing or CO2 extraction.

Sea buckthorn oil is also a champion in carotenoid content, up to 48 mg per 100 g of oil. After it come cranberry oil and rose hip oil (rose moschetta).

Oils in cosmetics with a high content of tocopherols (vitamin E)

Sea buckthorn oil (185-330 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Wheat germ oil (250 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Cranberry oil (215 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Blackcurrant oil (100 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Hemp oil (76 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)
Argan oil (62 mg of tocopherols per 100 g of oil)

Stability of oils to daylight and sunlight

Another important topic is about the stability of oils to daylight. The rule here is easy: the most stable oils are those with a high content of saturated acids, the most unstable oils with a high content of omega acids.

As you can see, a high tocopherol content sometimes does not prevent oils from going rancid.

According to stability, all vegetable oils are divided into three groups:

very stable oils
not stable oils
the third group with medium stability, which includes all other oils.

Oils unstable to daylight

Borage oil, pomegranate, black currant, primrose, sea buckthorn, soybean, sunflower, grape seed, wheat germ, rose moschetta (rose hip) oils

Oils are very stable to daylight

Oils: jojoba, cupuaçu, cocoa, coconut, mango, marula, shea butter, squalane, limnanthes alba

Medium stability oils

All other oils

It seems that I wrote all the most useful things about oils, but for those who did not finish the post to the end, I offer a short summary!

Summary for those who don't want to read this post!

Oils are needed for all skin types; they protect, help retain moisture and serve as a source of beneficial acids.
Omega 3-6 is beneficial taken internally to moisturize the skin, omega-9 is also necessary for balance
Oils with GLA are useful to take orally for chronic diseases and skin inflammations, and primrose is better than borage.
Oils with linoleic acid (omega-6) restore damaged skin barrier and are classified as ceramides
Oils with alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) rejuvenate the skin and the most active oils
Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) oils combat inflammation and itching
Oils with oleic acid (omega-9) moisturize and help active ingredients penetrate
Oils with palmitic acid (omega-7) enhance regeneration of mature skin
Oils with stearic and palmitic acid form a protective film and restore damage

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