Plumbing, which includes various means and equipment, has long become an integral part of our lives, making it much more comfortable and cozy. Plumbing, heat supply/heating and sewerage are used today as both a basic necessity and a full-fledged element of interior decor. The main criteria when selecting the right plumbing fixtures should always be:
- aesthetics;
- ergonomics;
- comfort;
- ease of operation and maintenance;
- quality factor;
- high technical characteristics.
At the same time, the duration and ease of operation of plumbing fixtures and communications will largely depend on the quality and correctness of their fastening. Unfortunately, it will not be possible to avoid equipment wear and repair even with ideal pipeline installation. Today, the repair and construction market is simply replete with various specialized companies for eliminating all kinds of problems and malfunctions of plumbing.
But in order to solve such a problem, it is not necessary to resort to the help of expensive specialists. Repairing and replacing plumbing in an apartment or house is completely doable with your own hands. The most common problems of this kind include repairing old sewers, sewers, rotten or rusted pipes, as well as adjusting drainage wiring. Additionally, installing sinks, bathtubs, toilets, and faucets are also part of plumbing renovations.
Each communication system has its own specifics and functional features. Therefore, when carrying out any kind of manipulation with plumbing, this fact should be taken into account.
Water supply
It is the main water-arterial junction in the house and is responsible for the supply of water to all components and devices of the water supply system. Often the location of all plumbing equipment in an apartment directly depends on the location of the risers and the main pipe distribution, the layout and implementation of which affects the functionality of these structures. However, there is no one-size-fits-all water supply scheme. It all depends solely on the specifics of the apartment or house.
Sewer system
Responsible for drainage. A feature of communication is its variability, which allows you to diversify the output of sewage:
- down in a vertical position;
- to the floor at an angle;
- horizontally.
For good functionality of the sewer system, it is important that all its elements are of high quality, appropriate in size and for their purpose.
Heating
A very specific communication system that requires a special approach and attention. There are:
- liquid/water;
- vacuum;
- electric, fuel;
- gas.
Such diversity involves the use of special materials and equipment that suit each heating design individually. Heat heaters, heated towel rails, radiators/heaters also act as standardized parts of the thermal system, allowing for the most rational consumption and distribution of thermal energy.
However, it should be noted that it is the heating of all plumbing work that requires a qualified approach. There is no place for savings and amateurism. That's why the best option will invite a specialist from the housing department to do it yourself without special tools and knowledge.
Plumbing equipment
The most common plumbing accessories include sinks, bathtubs, toilets, and faucets. There are no particular difficulties in installing or replacing them, but some skill and accuracy will still be required.
Sink/washbasin
An important part of the apartment is the bathroom or kitchen. The type of installation depends on the nature of the communication and the structure itself. Today, four types of sinks are widely known:
- with pedestal;
- with underframe;
- with semi-underframe;
- single.
Also special attention deserves the position of the mixer on the sinks, which is why sinks are divided into blind and hole models. All this affects the technology of fastening and replacing equipment, which in each specific case will have a number of features. Wherein general principles the settings remain the same.
Bath
As for assembling this tank, it is quite enough to strictly follow the included instructions. Main types of baths:
- steel;
- plastic;
- acrylic;
- cast iron.
In the case of the latter option, you may need an extra pair during installation. strong hands, since the weight of cast iron is quite large.
Mixers/taps
Today, the choice of faucets is represented by a very wide range of models, making it easy to choose the right option according to personal preferences and the specific design of the sink itself. There are two types of faucets - single-lever and double-valve. The form of mixers can be very diverse.
The most common crane problem is wear of the gasket, valve or lever, which can easily be fixed on your own by replacing damaged parts.
Toilet
Due to the general fashion for original imported sanitary ware, when choosing a toilet, you should first of all focus on the type of sewer and water supply system. Modeling in this case is already secondary.
Also, both during the initial installation of a device and when it is reinstalled due to repair or replacement, the method of installation of the equipment is very important. Four-bolt fastening is considered the most reliable and proven among all methods. For wall-hung toilets, the installation technology is somewhat different from conventional ones, so turning to professionals in such cases cannot be avoided.
Materials
Repair of any type of plumbing always begins with the selection the right materials and pipeline components. In this case, we are talking about pipes intended directly for plumbing repair work in an apartment or house. The most common types of water supply and sewerage devices are pipes: steel, copper, stainless steel, metal-plastic and polypropylene. Each of these pipelines has special characteristics.
- Steel manifold. Types: uncoated and galvanized. Features: long service life, high strength, labor-intensive wiring, the appearance of rust and limescale build-up over time.
- Copper collector. Ideal for fuel lines, gas and water supply, air conditioning and heating. Features: resistance to deformation and corrosion, large service life, resistance to temperature changes, high cost of material.
- Stainless steel manifold. Also applicable for different pipelines. Features: durability, frost resistance, ability to oxidize when interacting with certain metals, manufacturability, complexity of installation.
- Metal-plastic collector. Mainly used for water supply and heat. Features: durability, corrosion resistance, flexibility, lack of tendency to rust and water deposits, ease of wiring, sensitivity to frost and water hammer, high cost of fasteners.
- Polypropylene manifold. Wide scope of application. Types: regular, foil, stitched, etc. Features: cost-effectiveness, corrosion resistance, absence of rust and crystalline deposits, disposability, impossibility of reworking defects, minimum components, ease of installation.
Repair principle
Repairing plumbing is a painstaking and responsible task. And although general technology The process is simple, the work itself is usually quite labor-intensive and takes a lot of time. The main stages of DIY repair are:
- Planning upcoming work.
- Preparation of connection diagrams, pipe bends and routing and the location of plumbing equipment.
- Purchase of personal protective equipment - rubber gloves and caps, an apron or raincoat, glasses, a petal respirator.
- Purchase of necessary plumbing equipment.
- Cleaning the premises of old equipment and preparing the workplace.
- Selection and calculation of required materials. Their type and quantity will directly depend on the specifics of the repair and the structure of the pipeline connection.
- Determining the method of pipeline installation: open or closed.
- Assembly of pipeline structures.
- Installation of plumbing equipment (bathtubs, toilets, taps, etc.).
- Cleaning the premises from repair debris.
In order for repairing the plumbing of an apartment or house with your own hands to cause a minimum of inconvenience and reduce the time it takes to complete it as much as possible, it makes sense to take practical and useful advice from experienced craftsmen. So:
- When laying sewerage, in places where it bends (turns) at an angle of 90°C, use special 45°C fittings. This will help to avoid rapid clogging of the pipeline in the future.
- To save space in the room, connect the bathtub, washbasin and washing machine to a common pipe, and the toilet separately from them - directly to the riser.
- Without having special tools for plumbing repair, you can use ordinary construction equipment. For example, plastic pipes easy to cut with a simple hacksaw, and strip its ends sandpaper or a regular knife.
- If the area in the apartment or house is large and the bathroom is located far from the kitchen, be sure to install two separate risers.
- Changing sewer pipes It must be remembered that this type of communication is always biased. Fasteners, brackets and other parts are usually included with them.
- When combining a pipe with a tee, for the purpose of reliable and long-term sealing, it is necessary to ensure that all parts of the connection (pipe, coupling and rubber band) are clean. In addition, for adhesion strength, the pipe joints can be lubricated with glycerin or a soap mixture.
- If a leak suddenly occurs in the area where the pipe and fitting are connected, carefully lubricate the boundaries of the elements with glue and sealant and fasten them again. Then test the device for leakage.
- To better screw the nut securing the gasket, use liquid machine oil or kerosene.
- If the faucet is leaking, do not rush to buy gaskets for it. You can make them yourself from old car or bicycle tires. This makes the gaskets more durable and reliable.
- To remove blockages in the pipeline, use a steel cable, hard rubber or an old shower hose. With their help, it is easy to break through even very clogged areas, wash away grease, dirt and other deposits.
- It is necessary to try to prevent clogging in the pipes by periodically cleaning them using special solutions containing caustic soda - “Mole” and “Mole-2”.
- If you want to regulate the amount of water consumed in the toilet tank when flushing, you can attach a small weight of half a kilogram to its rubber bulb and, with each flush, independently control the volume of liquid in the drain.
Thus, with a little patience, knowledge and dexterity, any diligent owner can independently repair or replace the plumbing at home. And despite the predominant simplicity, this type of work categorically does not tolerate negligence and hackwork.
Do you want to seriously renovate and update your apartment? Then it will not be amiss to know that one of the most basic stages overhaul housing is replacing old plumbing and pipes with new ones. In addition, this is the most impressive item of expenditure in the budget allocated for this work.
Reducing already impressive costs is a normal desire of every prudent owner. Do you agree? It’s quite possible to reduce them: installing plumbing fixtures yourself will help. We will tell you how to do the wiring, how to move and connect plumbing equipment, and what tools and materials are needed.
You will learn how to change the pipes in the bathroom and connect plumbing fixtures yourself. And in order to make it easier to understand the repair issue, the article provides thematic photo guides and video instructions.
Typical projects Not everyone is happy with high-rise buildings, and apartment owners try to change the plumbing according to their preferences. This set of works is very troublesome and time-consuming, however, if you study the theoretical side of the issue well and follow the instructions exactly, most work (if not all) can be done independently.
Plumbing is an integral part of any home, the key to its comfort and coziness. To provide a person with proper living conditions, plumbing fixtures must at least be of high quality and correctly installed. In this article we will tell you about how to repair plumbing fixtures with your own hands.
Today, plumbing fixtures are gradually turning from an essential item into one of the elements of the interior, and sometimes into a luxury item. In plumbing, ease of use and practicality, elegance of form, ease of operation and maintenance, and ergonomics are increasingly valued. 
DEVICE OF TAPES AND MIXERS.
There are four groups of water taps and mixers: simple taps, simple mixers, single-handle mixers and thermostatic mixers.Simple taps served either cold or hot water. The most common and inexpensive devices for shutting off water are valves; the valve arrangement is shown in the figure below. However, they wear out quickly, especially for the gaskets that block the flow of water, which are most often made of rubber and have to be replaced with new ones quite often. When connecting the valve, it is necessary to observe the direction of water flow (shown by the arrow); if this rule is not followed, the valve may leak water, hum, or be difficult to screw on.
Ball valves, or valves with a ball spool, are mainly used in distribution systems. They are more durable and do not produce noise. To keep the faucet in working order, it is enough to sometimes just open and close it.
Simple, cheap mixers are most often a design consisting of two valves enclosed in a common housing. In simple high-quality faucets, a system consisting of ceramic discs is most often used. The use of ceramic discs greatly simplifies the procedure of opening and closing the tap and adjusting the water temperature. Ceramic discs are very reliable in operation and are practically insensitive to the deposition of limescale. In case of damage, damaged disks are replaced with new ones. Prevention consists of replacing the hermetic seal and lubricating the rubbing parts.
Attention! Never lubricate ceramic discs themselves. When disassembling the system, be careful: the disks are very fragile.
Mixer with thermostat: 1 – Device for setting the temperature; 2 – Thermostat cartridge; 3 – Housing; 4 – Ceramic head; 5 – Device for setting the water current; 6 – Check valve; 7 – Built-in nut; 8 – Flexible outlet for connecting a shower; 9 – Graduation system.
Mixer with ceramic discs: 1 – Jet regulator; 2 – Sealing washer; 3 – Head with ceramic discs; 4 – Cross; 5 – Housing; 6 – Flexible hoses for water supply.
Mixer with ceramic cartridge: 1 – Handle; 2 – Jet regulator; 3 – Cartridge; 4 – Housing; 5 – Fixing bracket; 6 – Flexible hoses for water supply.
Sealing washers (plumbing gaskets) used to ensure the tightness of mechanical connections and water shut-off systems are made from various materials, different diameters. It's best to have a set of different gaskets on hand. For any plumbing work The gasket should be changed as a preventive measure.
Synthetic gaskets are used in mechanical screw connections in water circulation systems. They can withstand temperatures up to +180°C and pressures up to 40 bar.
Vulcanized fiber gaskets are most often used in mechanical screw connections, primarily to ensure tightness in taps and mixers. They can withstand temperatures up to +80°C.
Gaskets made of asbestos-free Kevlar can withstand temperatures up to +400°C and pressures up to 100 bar.
Teflon gaskets are suitable for any liquids and can withstand temperatures up to +250°C.
Rubber gaskets are used mainly for sealing moving parts of taps and mixers, as well as for sealing connections of plastic parts (hoses) washing machines, siphons, etc.).
REPAIR OF TAPS AND MIXERS.
Cleaning the jet regulator.The jet regulator breaks up the water stream so that it does not splash when it hits the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Its important part is the filter, which must be cleaned periodically.
1. Unscrew the jet control using an adjustable wrench.
2. Separate the regulator from the tap.
3. Remove the filter from the holder.
4. Soak the filter in vinegar overnight.
Replacing gaskets at the faucet neck.
1. If there is a leak, unscrew the sink nut and remove the faucet neck.
2. Replace the two O-rings.
3. Apply lubricant or silicone to the gaskets and then reassemble the faucet.
Replacing the drain valve.
1. Turn off the water, then unscrew the faucet axle box.
2. Remove the sealing gasket. If necessary, replace it with a new one.
3. Remove the gasket from the brass socket using a knife or other sharp tool.
4. Replace the gasket with a new one.
5. Press the gasket into the socket. Now it can no longer be removed.
6. Before assembling the faucet, apply special grease or silicone to the rod and valve.
Replacing the mixer gasket.
1. In the mixer, the axle box is located under the faucet handle. Remove the colored marker from the faucet handle, and then unscrew the mounting screw.
2. Remove the faucet handle.
3. Unscrew the axle box using an adjustable wrench.
4. If the axlebox has a mounting screw, unscrew it.
5. Remove the gasket.
6. Replace the gasket. Assemble the axle box and install it in place.
Valve seat repair.
If the valve continues to leak even after replacing the gasket, the valve seat may be damaged or coated with scale. The valve seat can be rebuilt using a special tool called a lapping tool. The lapping consists of a body with two screw threads of different pitches, so it can be used for any axlebox. After sanding the valve seat, any metal filings must be removed. To do this, remove the jet regulator and slowly run the water for a few seconds.
1. Check the condition of the seat surface with your finger.
2. Slowly screw the lap into the faucet.
3. Turn the lapping handle two to three times.
Replacing the axle box.
When replacing an axlebox with a new one, pay attention to the threads; the threads of axleboxes are different. The most practical are axle boxes with ceramic discs. 
1. Unscrew the old one and screw in the new axlebox with a new gasket.
2. Firmly fix the axle box in the crane body. 
3. Reinstall the faucet head.
Replacing ceramic discs.
1. Turn off the water. Place the faucet handle in its highest position, and then unscrew the fixing screw. 
2. Unscrew the axle box mount using a lever pipe valve. 
3. Remove the mechanism to access the ceramic discs. 
4. Remove the worn discs (or cartridge with ceramic discs). 
5. Check the condition of the disks and, if necessary, replace them. 
6. Apply lubricant or silicone to mechanical parts. Do not lubricate ceramic discs!
Installation of a self-screwing tap.
If you need to connect, for example, a washing machine to a pipe that does not have a special tap, you can use a self-screwing tap, which is easy to install. 
1. Unscrew the clamp of the self-screwing valve. 
2. Install the clamp on the pipe. 
3. Screw the tap into the clamp. 
4. Screw in the tap until it cuts through the copper pipe. 
5. This operation is easier to perform if the valve rotates easily. To do this, you need to install it correctly on the clamp and secure it by tightening the locknut with an adjustable wrench. 
6. Once installed on the pipe, the tap can no longer be disconnected.
REPAIR OF PIPELINES.
When repairing plumbing equipment, it may be necessary to tidy up the water supply pipes. The water in them is under pressure, so leaks are possible. Water drainage pipes may also leak. The most common problem is clogged and clogged pipes. In most cases, getting rid of blockages in the drain pipe is not difficult. The classic draining system includes a hydraulic shutter and a siphon, which also often gets clogged.
The simplest tool to get rid of blockages is a plunger. For difficult cases, there are more powerful devices, such as a plunger with a pump. If the blockage is in the pipe behind the trap, you may need a plumbing cable with a handle on one end and a cleaning head (borer or brush) on the other.
Clearing a clog using a plunger.
1. Before clearing the clog, seal the holes in the top of the sink with wide adhesive tape.
2. Pump the air with a plunger until the water standing in the sink goes into the drain hole.
Clearing the blockage using a plunger with a pump.
1. Press the plunger against the drain grate.
2. Pump the pump until the water standing in the sink goes away. Then turn on the hot water for a while.
Cleaning the siphon.
1. Place some container under the siphon.
2. Unscrew the bottom of the siphon and wait until the water drains.
3. Clean the siphon.
4. To seal the bottom of the siphon, apply mastic to the threads.
5. Distribute the mastic to the entire thread.
6. Screw the bottom onto the siphon again.
Removing a blockage using a plumbing cable.
1. Disconnect the siphon.
2. Insert the metal cable into the hole in the drain pipe until it touches the plug.
3. To clear the blockage, rotate the handle.
4. Reinstall the siphon.
5. If there are too many bends in the drain pipe, you can use the holes provided specifically for cleaning.
6. Insert a metal cable into the hole and by rotating the cable, clear the blockage.
Installing a flexible drain hose.
Typically, flexible drain hoses are used to connect additional plumbing equipment. A flexible hose can easily replace an old siphon, as well as incorrectly installed drain hoses. There should be a column of water at least five centimeters high in the drain hose. Therefore, the flexible hose is shaped into a siphon before installation.
1. Take a flexible drain hose of the required length and diameter.
2. Place gaskets and O-rings inside the plastic pipe.
3. Tighten the flexible hose nut on the drain.
4. Glue the coupling to the drain pipe and shape the flexible hose into a siphon shape.
5. Glue the flexible hose to the coupling and put a clamp on it so that the hose retains its shape.
Connecting the drain hose for the washing machine.
As with water taps, there are sets of self-screwing siphon pipes for washing machines. 
1. Install the gasket on the top of the clamp. 
2. Place the clamp in place on the pipe. 
3. Attach the clamp to the sewer pipe. 
4. Drill the pipe using a drill driver. 
5. Remove the knob. 
6. Place the gasket on the siphon. 
7. Screw the siphon onto the clamp. 
8. Attach the siphon funnel to the wall using the clamp provided in the kit.
Almost every living space must have a bathroom. Therefore, it is very difficult to imagine living spaces without a bathroom. Therefore, many owners of their apartments or houses are faced with the question of how to install plumbing. There are also planning options for combining a bathroom with a toilet.
It should also be noted that in addition to the bathtub itself or the sink and toilet, plumbing products also include a variety of faucets and water distribution outlets. Perhaps, to some, the installation work of installing plumbing may seem like a very difficult job, and not everyone can do it, but this is not so.
In fact, this work is not very difficult; all work can be done with your own hands without resorting to the services of qualified plumbers. Only, here you can only have one serious problem, this is the installation and installation of the bathroom itself.
The whole difficulty lies only in its size and heaviness, so when installing it you cannot do without help. Of course, almost anyone can perform all installation work on plumbing, only here it is necessary to take into account certain installation nuances, as well as know the various subtleties when installation work.
At the same time, it is important to do everything correctly, efficiently and beautifully; if you make any mistake or oversight, this can lead to big troubles, for example, flooding a neighbor on the floor below. But despite this risk, many apartment and house owners are in no hurry to call qualified plumbers, trying to solve this issue on their own and saving their money.
Just for execution certain type For the job, you will need a special tool, which not everyone has, so you will have to purchase an expensive tool.
As a rule, for installation work on plumbing yourself, you need to have a whole set of special tools and devices:
- adjustable wrench
- building level
- silicone sealant
- Screwdriver Set
- tow
- electric drill or hammer drill
- set of dowels and screws
- fasteners
Of course, this is not the entire list of what is needed during the work process; therefore, you may need an additional tool that can be used to perform the necessary work.
Installing the sink yourself
So, before starting all installation work, you must first turn off the water supply to the room, and you must be careful and attentive as this can lead to flooding of the room or neighbors on the floor below.
As a rule, installing a sink in a bathroom depends on its type and type, as well as its design. Many people prefer the “tulip” model; this is a rather simple and uncomplicated design of the sink, which has a leg on which the washbasin is located.
At the same time, the leg can hide the supplied communications and mixers, this is very convenient and practical. Essentially, work with a sink is divided into two stages: fastening and installation of the sink itself, and the second stage is the installation of faucets.
So, first you need to make the necessary markings on the wall for level mounting of the sink to the wall. Using a building level, make markings on the wall, then mark the points for the holes that will hold the bracket. The holes are drilled with an electric drill or hammer drill and hammered into the finished holes. plastic dowels, and then the brackets are screwed in.
Next, you can connect drainage pipes and flexible wiring for cold and hot water. It is very important to lubricate all connections with silicone sealant in order to avoid water leakage and keep everything securely sealed.
This is especially true when installing a faucet with water outlets, and silicone sealant must be applied to its threads. At the final stage, you should begin connecting the sewer pipe and connecting the siphon.
It is very important that all connection elements are tightened and tightened, all nuts and pipe bends. After installing the sink, be sure to turn on the water supply and make sure there is no water leakage.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation
From the outside it may seem that installing a toilet yourself is a very difficult and troublesome task, but this is absolutely not the case. Here it is important to follow a consistent algorithm of actions and be extremely careful.
If you follow these rules, replacing or installing a new toilet will not be a big problem. As a rule, modern toilets do not require the use of cement or glue; they have holes in their design that hold them in place.
So, before you start installing the toilet, you need to decide on the location. Next, make markings for the holes that will hold the structure, after which holes are drilled with a drill, into which we hammer the dowels, and the toilet structure is installed in this place.
It is very important that the toilet design fits well with the waste pipe and water supply. It is important that all joints and outlets are coated with sealant or resin strand to prevent water leakage. Upon completion of all installation work, you need to test run the water and make sure there are any leaks.
DIY bathroom installation
Installing a bathroom is actually not difficult to do yourself. But all the complexity arises from its size and heaviness. Therefore, it is advisable to entrust the installation and installation of the bathroom to qualified specialists who will perform this work efficiently and quickly.
When installing a bathroom, you first need to decide on the installation location, and only then proceed with the installation itself. As a rule, the bathroom structure is mounted on flat surface floor tiled, then we set the required height so that it is level and without distortions, using a regular building level, placing the bathroom in an even plane on the level.
Therefore, if you are still planning to install plumbing on your own, then this article can serve as instructions for installing plumbing. At the same time, it is important to be careful when performing all work; you must not rush.
It is important to follow the sequence of your actions. If you have any difficulties during the installation and installation work of plumbing, or it is difficult to choose one or another model of plumbing products, you can view colorful and unique photos of plumbing. Of course, everyone will find something to their liking here.
Photo of the DIY plumbing installation process
Overview information:
Repair and replacement of plumbing in the apartment
It is advisable to divide the repair and replacement of plumbing into two stages: replacement of communications (pipes) is carried out after cleaning the premises, and - after completion finishing works. In this case, you will have to use the dirty toilet, sink and bathtub, remove them, and then temporarily put them in place, but this is still better than then buying new plumbing fixtures again.
Besides the necessary tool, when repairing plumbing, you will need protective equipment: rubber gloves, an apron, goggles, a rubber cap and a petal respirator. Instead of an apron with a cap, a plastic raincoat works well. You need to remember that the neighbors above can start leaking at any moment.
Replacing the sewer line begins with replacing the riser. Remove the toilet and the old riser in the middle twice, with an interval of 150-200 mm, and cut it with a grinder using a metal circle. Cast iron is difficult to cut, but you should not lean on the tool: this will only complicate the work and cause increased wear of the tool.
Then metal wedges or two powerful flat screwdrivers are inserted into the cuts and, alternately tapping them with a sledgehammer or a 400 g hammer, drive them until the riser breaks. You can’t hit, kilograms of sharp cast iron fragments can fall on your head.
Next, the upper rest of the riser is securely fastened, and the lower one, always together, is rocked until its fastening in the crosspiece coupling loosens and it comes out of it. In the same way, remove the top of the old riser (you need to be especially careful here) and the cross.
A new riser should preferably be made of anti-noise (sound-absorbing) plastic, PVC or (better, but more expensive) propylene. Anti-noise sewer pipes are white, with longitudinal green and red stripes. There are many fakes on the market, so you need to buy certified ones, indicating the service life and degree of noise suppression; it is determined by calculations for a given room.
A riser made of ordinary PVC is attached to the wall with sound-absorbing, rubber gaskets, clamps, and there is a gap between it and the ceiling. Foaming is not suitable; polyurethane foam transmits sound well.
Observing slopes of at least 3 cm/m and no more than 15 cm/m; if the slope is too large, the water will roll down the pipe, flowing around the contaminants. If hidden sewerage wiring is provided, channels in the walls for it are tapped during the repair of the base floor. To do this, you will need a hammer drill of at least 1.3 kW with a concrete chisel of 60-80 mm, and for edge cuts - a grinder of the same power with a stone circle of 200 mm.
The channel width should include and. Golden Rule when constructing hidden engineering communications– all bends are only vertical, no bends or kinks in the walls! The main channel is led above the floor, taking into account the thickness of the finishing coating.
When installing sewer lines, standard gaskets are coated with a thin layer of silicone sealant before installation. It is the gaskets that prevent the sealant from being pressed inward during installation: its “sausage” inside will become a source of blockages. The gasket and the mounting surface of the coupling underneath it must be completely dry when sealing.
The sewer work is completed by assembling a plumbing cabinet frame from a U- or C-metal profile and covering it with moisture-resistant (green) plasterboard (GVL) on nickel-plated screws. The final finishing of the sanitary cabinet is carried out at the same time as the walls.
Note: the choice of new plumbing for the apartment is made before renovation, so that you know in advance what height to install vertical channels, but its fastening to the walls is carried out through the finishing. Also on finishing. In terms of cost, durability and especially hygiene best option, except for the wall-hung toilet - and; In a busy family, you should consider a double vanity. If it is supposed to be done, it is better to do it after repairs.