Mushroom dowel for insulation - types and features of use. Types of dowels for thermal insulation of surfaces with mineral wool and polystyrene foam. How many fungi are needed to attach the insulation

To be fair, it should be said that fungi for attaching insulation are not the only installation method. But in most designs they are used. Even in situations where, for example, polystyrene foam sits on adhesive foam, with a “wet facade” they additionally use fungus for insulation. Let's gradually understand the operating principles of this “miracle”, select the desired type of fastening and calculate the cost.

Dowels for thermal insulation are fastening elements consisting of several parts. Namely:

The hat is its task to distribute the load over the surface of the material being fixed;
Spacer element- it carries the load and creates a friction force that ensures that the insulation is held on the wall;
Nail - hammered into the spacer element for tight fixation;
Some types of insulation fungi have an anchor sleeve for additional fastening.
Also, there are expansion washers- their task is to increase the contact area with thermal insulation and distribute the load over the surface. In practice, such washers are used for soft materials in order to avoid their deformation.

So, a disc dowel for fastening is a mechanical element with the help of which the insulation is attached to the wall.

Fastening requirements

Insulation anchors are subject to high stress, function in alkaline environments and are exposed to extreme temperatures. This means they must meet several criteria.

We have set the basic requirements for fasteners for insulation; now it is important to see how the modern market satisfies these requirements.

Kinds

To put it simply, there are two main types of umbrellas.

Made from galvanized steel

The nail of such umbrellas in most cases is made of galvanized steel (sometimes polyamide). And although this material resists corrosion more than other metal ones, it is still not completely protected from it. There is a second drawback. Metal conducts heat well, which means that cold bridges can form at the attachment point and condensation can accumulate. Over time, cracks may appear at the attachment points. This type of fasteners has a higher cost.

Main characteristics:

Dowel material: impact-resistant polypropylene.
Anchor material: low carbon, galvanized steel;
Temperature range: -55 - +60 degrees;
Load: up to 750 kg per square meter.

As a conclusion: such fungi are used in the case of attaching heavy insulation, when the use of plastic is impossible.

Made of plastic

Dowel for thermal insulation with a plastic nail. They are used more often than metal ones, but they are less expensive and less durable. Although even their performance is quite impressive. The temperature ranges from -40 to + 80 degrees. Such umbrellas are also able to withstand loads from 20 to 380 kg per square meter. Nylon nails are also classified as plastic.

With thermal head

Thermal insulation dowels with thermal head are umbrellas with metal nails. A polymer head is placed on the end of the anchor. This approach is used for different types of walls, but is especially necessary for wooden ones. The purpose of the head is to reduce thermal conductivity. Such elements have a higher cost (the highest among dowels), but also the lowest thermal conductivity and strength.

In addition, fungi are distinguished by length. This is an important indicator that needs to be calculated correctly. The diameter of the rod for the anchor is also distinguished. Most often, rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm are used.

Price

The price of a fungus for attaching insulation depends on the type and length. Average cost:

The difference in cost is mainly affected by length.

You can often find umbrellas in packages of 800-3000 pieces. In general, plastic ones are sold wholesale by the kilogram. But such options are not suitable for frequency construction. Insulating one small house may require up to 300 fasteners.

Length calculation

If the fastening element is chosen incorrectly, it will not hold the thermal insulation. And you will have to tear it off along with the attached sheets. How not to make a mistake and calculate the required length right away?

The purpose of the dowel is to secure the insulation to the main wall. This is where you need to get to. On the way to a solid surface lie:

The insulation itself;
Thickness of the adhesive (if any).

In addition, it is worth considering that the dowel must go into the wall to a depth of 50 mm.

Thus, we calculate the required length using the formula:

L = H + I + K + W.

L – required final dowel length;

H – thickness of the heat-insulating layer;

K is the thickness of the old plaster or adhesive to which the insulation is attached;

I – fastening the dowel into the concrete/brick/wooden base of the wall (at least) 50 mm.

W – margin for wall curvature.

For example, if you use foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm and use a thin layer of glue - 5-10 mm, a dowel 110 mm long will be enough for you. If the wall is smooth. But, if the wall distortion reaches 50 mm, it is worth adding this figure and then you will need a dowel of 160 mm or more. If we increase the thermal insulation layer to 100 mm, in the latter case we will need 210 mm of rod length.

When choosing fasteners: longer does not always mean better. If insulation occurs, for example, in an apartment, the thickness of the walls may be especially small and you need to correctly calculate the length.

Fastening schemes

In the first approach, 5-6 dowels are needed per 1 square of material (as a rule, it is approximately equal to 1 square meter). 4 are attached in the corners (5-10 cm from the edge) 1-2 in the center.

According to the second scheme, dowels are driven at the junction of two slabs. Thus, one cap holds three slabs at the joint. With this approach, one dowel needs to be driven in the center.

For the sake of the notorious economy, craftsmen manage to get by with just one dowel per slab in the center.

When determining the number of fasteners, you must also take into account the number of storeys of the building and the place where the insulation is attached. More fastenings are recommended at corners. On buildings higher than 8 meters there are 7 fastenings per square. On buildings above 20 meters there are 9. This is due to the increased wind load and the load on the lower rows of thermal insulation from the upper ones.

Installation

Using a dowel to attach insulation occurs in 3 stages:

A hole is drilled corresponding to the diameter of the rod and exceeding its length by 10 mm;
The dowel is inserted manually (its head should be flush with the insulation);
The fixing anchor is inserted and hammered.

If you are using an extension cuff, it must be put on before inserting the fungus!

If available, cover the cap with a lid.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Most often, developers are interested in how insulation is attached to a wall or ceiling by reading specialized resources on the Internet. But many sites offer information on the types of dowels for fastening or provide reviews of adhesive compositions, but meanwhile, fixing insulating elements is a complex process, and it needs to be considered as a whole, and not in separate fragments.

I will tell you how to attach different types of insulation to various structures: basement, walls, ceiling and attic, these are the types of work that are carried out most often.

Review of work options

Let me make a reservation right away - I will not talk about all possible fastening methods, but will only touch on the simplest and most effective options that have proven their reliability among developers. Don't try to find fancy technology; the simpler the workflow, the less likely there are errors and defects.

Option No. 1 - wall insulation

The question of how to attach insulation to a wall is one of the most popular, since this is the type of work that is carried out most often and for some reason causes great difficulties among developers. Let's figure out what you will need to carry out the work when attaching insulation for plastering:

Bends for fastening insulation	There are three product options: plastic products, elements with a metal nail and dowels with a metal nail and a thermal head. The length of the products should be 70 mm greater than the thickness of the insulation to ensure high-quality fixation of the elements. The plastic version can be used with a length of up to 120 mm; if it is longer, the strength will not be enough; nails in such products often break
Adhesive composition	The market sells many options for special adhesive compositions for attaching thermal insulation. There is not much difference between them, the main thing is that they are suitable for the type of thermal insulation material you have chosen. The composition should not be petrified, this is a sign that storage conditions have been violated; the quality of such mixtures is much lower
Polyurethane foam	It is needed when using foam plastic and is used to fill the gaps that inevitably form when attaching the material. Usually you don’t need much of it, but it all depends on how well the installation is done.
Work tool	It is impossible to prepare glue without a container and a drill with a mixing attachment, and you need to apply it with a special spatula or grater. In order to install umbrellas, you need to drill holes for them, so you must have a hammer drill with a drill of the required diameter and length on hand

I want to give you some tips on how to choose high-quality fasteners for insulation, or, as it is also called, a mushroom for thermal insulation:

First of all, decide on the best option, I wrote above that purely plastic products can be taken with a length of up to 120 mm, if you need larger options, then you definitely need to purchase dowels with a metal nail, as they are more durable. It is best to choose the option with a thermal head, in which the cap is closed with a special plastic plug, which prevents the formation of cold bridges and eliminates the appearance of corrosion stains on the surface;

The length should be at least 70 mm greater than the thickness of the insulation, that is, for foam plastic or mineral wool 50 mm thick, products 10x120 mm are best suited. If you need to attach heavy mineral wool to a wall made of foam concrete, then it is better to take longer dowels, this will provide additional reliability, because the blocks are more fragile than brick or;
When choosing, pay special attention to the quality of the plastic; products should not bend too easily, but they should not be hard either. I once purchased a batch of rigid dowels, which, when driven in, broke through one because the plastic was too fragile. Choose the golden mean, the rod should bend slightly with moderate force;
Metal nails should not show signs of corrosion, ideally if the surface is coated with a layer of zinc. If the thermal head comes separately and is put on during installation, check whether it fits properly onto the head.

Now let’s look at the workflow, first I’ll show you the diagram, and below I’ll describe each point in detail, so you can quickly understand all the nuances:

First of all, you need to level the surface; if there are cracks or damage on it, they must be repaired. The more reliable the base, the more firmly the thermal insulation will stick. If sand is falling from the surface or it is too loose, then you need to strengthen it with deep penetration soil;
So that you do not constantly have to control the level of insulation laying and do not have to worry about attaching the first row, the easiest way is to attach a starting metal profile from below. Firstly, it will protect the material from below from adverse influences, and secondly, it will become an excellent support and guideline when carrying out work. This element is fastened with quick-installation dowels;

Next, the installation of heat-insulating sheets begins; for this, a solution is prepared, which is applied to the back of the insulation. As for foam plastic, it is enough to apply glue around the perimeter and at a couple of points in the middle. Mineral wool, due to its large weight, needs to be glued more thoroughly: the composition is applied to the entire surface using a notched grater (tooth size 8-10 mm);

After about a day, when the glue has hardened, you can begin the last stage of fastening - installing umbrellas. To do this, holes of the required depth are first drilled, after which the umbrella is first inserted, which is then fixed by driving a nail, everything is very simple. As for the number of dowels, it may vary; for lightweight materials you can use fewer of them; two options for carrying out the work are shown below.

This option is suitable for bases made of brick, concrete or blocks; if you have wooden walls, the technology will be different.

If you decide to insulate wooden walls under plaster, the process will look like this:

First of all, you need to figure out how to attach thermal insulation material to the wall. An ordinary anchor will not work here, a special solution is needed: the insulation is fixed with long wood screws, and in order to prevent them from falling through, a special support washer is put on them, which is called a rondole, it has a special plug that covers the head of the screw, which is very comfortable;

If you want to provide additional strength, you can glue the sheets using a composition that resembles polyurethane foam and is sold in the same containers; it adheres well to wood. This glue can also be used for sealing joints;

The number of screws depends on how securely the insulation is held; sometimes you may need up to 6 of them per sheet.

If you are making a system of ventilated facades, then the fastening process can be done in two ways:

The first involves the construction of a wooden lattice, the width of which should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation. This will allow the sheets to be laid very tightly and without additional fixation. Often the only element that holds the material is the waterproofing film, which is attached on top;

The second option is when a full-fledged ventilated façade is constructed from a metal profile. First, vertical posts are installed, after which the heat-insulating material is laid, most often it is mineral wool; to fix it, fungi are used to attach the insulation.

We figured out how to fix materials on the wall for different options for carrying out work, everything is quite simple, it is important to ensure the reliability of the location of the insulation.

Option No. 2 - thermal insulation of the base

This part of the structure needs special attention, since if it is not insulated, the cold will penetrate through the soil and the floor in the house will always be cold. As for the process of attaching thermal insulation, it is quite simple:

First of all, you need to clear the insulated surface and ensure unimpeded access to it while the work is being carried out. It is best to do this operation at the stage of construction of the building;
Next, you need to waterproof the surface; the easiest way is to use mastic, it makes the surface more durable and improves the adhesion of the adhesive;
As for attaching the heat insulator, and for these purposes I strongly recommend using extruded polystyrene foam, it is best to use gluing technology. The same mastic is used as glue; with its help you will quickly and securely fix the sheets to the surface. An additional advantage of this option is that this mount is not afraid of moisture;

There is no point in using fungi, since after completion of the work the surface will be covered with soil, which will press the material to the surface. The only thing that should be done is to seal the joints, if any, with polyurethane foam.

This type of work is very simple, although many consider it more complex than insulating walls. The main thing is to use a high-quality gluing compound.

Option No. 3 - insulating the attic

Let's figure out how to install insulation in the attic, since this part of the structure requires particularly careful thermal insulation and the work differs markedly from the options discussed above. There are several ways to carry out the work, and they depend on what material is used. Let's start by considering such insulation as polystyrene foam:

It is necessary to use material with a thickness of at least 100 mm; if this is not available, then two elements of 50 mm each can be laid. The ideal option is to step the rafters according to the width of the foam, this will simplify the work and allow it to be carried out much faster;
Products are attached using adhesive or polyurethane foam.. If the elements are already arranged tightly, then you can simply seal the joints with foam; it will also serve as an additional fastening of the material. The advantage of this option is that it is very light in weight, and this simplifies the work, because any glue will withstand low loads;

If additional insulation is needed, then sheets of extruded polystyrene foam can be attached over the rafters; they are attached with self-tapping screws with pressure washers directly to the rafters. In this case, it is better to place the element across, this way you can secure them much more securely.

Double sheathing with insulation involves subsequent plastering work, therefore, when fastening, carefully ensure that the caps are flush with the surface or slightly recessed into it;

For additional fixation, slats or a board are attached over the insulation, onto which the finishing material is then attached. They allow for excellent fixation of the insulation, in which it will definitely stay in place.

Now let's look at this type of insulation such as mineral wool; in the attic, roll options are used, which are easy to use and have good thermal insulation characteristics:

The material is cut into strips, the width of which should be 3-4 cm greater than the distance between the rafters. The optimal size is determined experimentally; you yourself will understand which option holds best and is easiest to insert into the structure;
Next, the strips are tightly pushed into the space; there should be no gaps, so all connections are sealed as thoroughly as possible. Usually the cotton wool is held in place due to its tight arrangement, but additional fixation will not hurt it;

For fastening, we will not use traditional options in the form of dowels and glue; we will need small nails and strong twine. The nails are hammered onto the rafters in increments of 40-50 cm, after which twine is pulled diagonally between them. It firmly fixes the insulation and ensures its stationary position; this is a very simple but very effective solution.

Option No. 4 - insulating the ceiling from the inside

There is no point in talking about insulating the ceiling from above, since there is no need for fastening there. But if you need to attach insulation to the ceiling from below, then many questions and problems arise due to the inconvenience of the work and the difficulty of fixing the material. There are several options for doing the work yourself, I will list them, and you need to choose the most suitable one:

If you have a concrete ceiling and you use mineral wool, then the issue can be solved by using fungi that are familiar to us. Here you need to work with an assistant, he should hold the sheet until you mark the drilling points, and then hold it until the dowels for thermal insulation are installed and fixed. I advise you to purchase glasses and a respirator in advance - during work everything gets into your eyes, and the resulting dust makes it difficult to breathe;

If you have polystyrene foam, then you can simply glue it with glue in cans. Moreover, it can be glued to both concrete and wood; this method is considered universal. In addition, the price of this material is low, which makes it the most attractive among all;

If you have a wooden structure, then you can secure the insulation by constructing a frame of slats, on which thermal insulation sheets are simply placed. This option is suitable for any wooden structures, because the frame can be positioned at the required distance and insulation of the required thickness can be applied;
If you don’t want to think about how to attach insulation to the ceiling from the inside, then you can do it even simpler - when covering the surface with plasterboard or clapboard, simply lay the material on the structure. The main thing here is that you can lay the insulation tightly and securely. And of course, it shouldn’t be heavy.

Conclusion

I hope that this unique instruction will answer all your questions regarding the installation of thermal insulation materials. The video in this article will tell you about some important points in more detail, and if you have questions, ask them in the comments under the review.

September 6, 2016

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Installation of insulation

Selecting reliable fasteners for installing insulation is a strategically important task. These tiny details can either permanently eliminate the problem of cold in the house, ensuring a reliable fit of the insulation to the surface of the facade, or lead to very sad consequences. After all, unsuitable fasteners will not securely fix the material, and then winter will not only be outside the window - it will settle in your house. Let's talk about what you need to know about dowels for attaching insulation.

Dowels: mushrooms and plates

For fastening hard and soft insulation, the so-called mushroom dowels for thermal insulation, or, to put it differently, plate-shaped mushrooms. They are able to hold even loose and fragile insulation. Using a mushroom dowel, you can mount the material on almost all types of flat surfaces made of concrete, brick, foam concrete and aerated concrete, as well as building stone.

Disc-shaped dowels hardware have become widespread due to the unique design of the outer cap - it is quite wide in size and has conical holes that allow the mineral insulation to be securely fixed. Good load-bearing performance is ensured by a long wedging zone. The disk of such a dowel has a rough surface and special technological holes. They ensure reliable pressing of the material to the base. In addition, the fixation of the insulation is facilitated by a spacer zone (60 mm), consisting of three sections, which, among other things, completely prevents the dowel from being pulled out of the hole.

The main component in the manufacture of dowels is low-density polyethylene (HDPE), and the expansion nail is usually made of galvanized steel or glass-filled polyamide. Hardware not only helps preserve heat, but also has excellent anti-corrosion properties. The disc-shaped dowel is firmly fixed in place by spreading it with a nail, screw or screw. Moreover, it expands in two or three directions, which makes it possible to effectively fix all known types of insulating materials, as well as increase the fastening strength and load-bearing capacity of the dowel itself. In addition, the plastic material of the product avoids the formation of cold bridges and is characterized by resistance to aging, which, together with other quality characteristics, guarantees high reliability of the fasteners for many years.

The disc dowel, in particular its head, is highly flexible, due to which compensation occurs for thermal expansion and deformation of the material. This, in turn, makes it possible to reduce damage to the insulating layer itself to zero.

A variety of dowel shapes for insulation

The disc dowel consists of a core and a wide cap, which allows you to reliably fix any heat-insulating material on the facade of a building using galvanized metal nails. The disc dowel made of polyethylene is resistant to corrosion and, unlike outdated wooden plugs, does not collapse, does not rot, and reliably and firmly fixes the thermal insulation on the facade.

There were also threaded dowel nails, due to which they can simply be driven into the surface. They are made from glass-filled polyamide or galvanized metal. As a rule, the most common materials for making mushroom dowels are metal and plastic.

Metal dowel for insulation It is more expensive, but at the same time it can withstand much greater loads compared to plastic. Metal mushrooms are used for fastening to hollow and thin-walled structures. Thanks to the zinc coating, such fasteners do not corrode, which improves the durability and reliability of the entire thermal insulation system of the house.

Plastic dowels There are two types on sale: nylon and polypropylene. Nylon dowels are designed for installation to solid, hollow materials and wood, that is, to virtually any base. They are supplied complete with a metal screw (diameter - from 2 to 16 mm), the dowels can withstand a maximum load of 225 - 450 kg for concrete and 160 - 380 kg for brick. As for the polypropylene dowel, it is capable of taking a load from 20 to 750 kg.

Installation of insulation

The principle of operation of fastening dowels for insulation

Despite the fact that there are different technological processes and materials are constantly being improved, the physical law by which the dowel secures thermal insulation remains unchanged - this is the holding force of friction. In this process, it is so large that the fastener can only be used once - when removed from the hole, it will simply collapse. Another way to damage the fastening is to pull it out under the pressure of the insulation. Such troubles can be avoided if you carefully prepare the seat.

The hole for installing the disc dowel must correspond to the required diameter and depth of the fastener. The presence of cracks, chips, sand or dust residues inside it is unacceptable. Thanks to their shapes and the presence of various spacer zones, fasteners for thermal insulation are securely fixed on almost all types of surfaces. At the same time, external factors practically do not affect the strength of such fastening during the subsequent operation of thermal insulation systems.

Dowels for monolithic foundations have a spacer principle of fastening, and for hollow cores they have an anchor principle.

Traditionally, the required dowel length for insulation is calculated using the following formula: L = H + K + I + W, where:

L - required dowel length;
H - thickness of the insulation layer, obtained on the basis of thermal engineering calculations;
K - thickness of the adhesive composition for gluing the insulation;
I is the length of the spacer part of the dowel (it must be at least 45 mm);
W is the sum of actually determined deviations of the building’s base from the vertical and the deviation of the façade plane in the places where dowels for thermal insulation are installed (a kind of safety margin along the length of the fastener).

When installing a heat-insulating layer consisting of materials with high deformability (semi-rigid mineral wool boards), it is best to choose dowels with an expansion washer with a diameter of 100 mm

The process of attaching insulation with dowels

Direct installation of insulation dowels is simple and consists of only a few operations.

Marking the locations of proposed installation.
Drilling holes for fasteners through a layer of thermal insulation.
Installing the dowel: it is pressed into the hole until the head is pressed tightly against the insulating material.
Installing a nail for expansion and hammering it until final fixation.
Attaching the nail head protective cover.

When attaching the insulation, be sure to remove the old plaster (if any) or increase the drilling depth. Fastening dowels involves inserting the anchor element into the load-bearing layer of the wall exactly the entire length. When reducing the length of the spacer element yourself (which happens quite often), it is imperative to sharpen the cut end. To install the dowel, make a hole with a diameter of 10 mm (± 0.3 - 5 mm). Its depth in the load-bearing wall should be 55 - 60 mm for an anchor element measuring 50 mm, 105 - 110 mm for an anchor element measuring 100 mm.

After this, a dowel is placed in the hole, and the disc-shaped and anchor elements are first placed on a fiberglass rod. Using a hammer, the protruding part of the rod is hammered to the level of the flange. At the same time, tension is created in the anchor element, which ensures reliable adhesion in the “wall - anchor element - rod” system. For standard fastening, use five to six dowels per square meter. m walls. The exact amount of fasteners required is determined by calculation based on the area of the insulated surface.

Dowel for attaching insulation

Currently, the market offers a huge range of different types dowels for insulation, designed for various thermal insulation materials, taking into account their thickness, weight and other characteristics. The main producing countries of such hardware are Russia, Germany, China and Poland. The price range ranges from 3 to 30 rubles. per piece (the cost depends on the materials from which the dowel is made, as well as on the manufacturer’s brand).

Thermal insulation of a house is one of the most important stages of construction. It allows you to create a comfortable microclimate in the building with minimal energy consumption. The facade is insulated with foam plastic, polystyrene or mineral boards using fungi for attaching the insulation.

1. Disc-type anchors with a plastic anchor consist of a rod with a round cap and a spacer element. They are usually made from polypropylene. Disc-shaped dowels are distinguished by the presence of conical holes in their outer cap, which ensure reliable fastening of thermal insulation. Thermal conductivity is less than 0.004 W/K, temperature range of use is from -40 to +80°C. The required length of the fungus is determined by summing the thickness of the insulation layer and the length of the spacer. The load-bearing load that the elements can withstand ranges from 20 to 380 kg. They are used for attaching light-weight thermal insulation materials (mineral wool) to concrete, stone, and brick facades. The advantages of vinyl spacer mushrooms include their low cost, chemical resistance and provision of high adhesion to the reinforcing surface. The main disadvantage is the impossibility of installing a heavy facing layer on top of the thermal insulation.

2. Disc-shaped ones with a metal anchor consist of a metal nail with a round head and a spacer element. The dowel is made of impact-resistant polypropylene, and the rod is made of galvanized steel. Anti-corrosion coating of the nail increases the reliability and service life of the insulation. The diameter of the dowel spacer element for fastening insulation is from 4 to 6 mm. Temperature range of use – from -55 to +60 °C. Maximum bearing load – 750 kg. The average size of fungi for cotton wool is 10x200 mm.

They are used for insulating facades and insulating ceilings. The advantages include the possibility of installing heavy facing materials, as well as plaster, on top of thermal plates. The main disadvantage of insulation on mushrooms with a metal rod is the formation of “cold bridges”.

3. Disc-type with thermal head. Their design includes a spacer sleeve with a cap and a steel rod, onto the end of which a small plastic head is placed. Thanks to the metal nail, it can be used for fastening relatively heavy insulating materials. The thermal head, which is placed on the rod at the end of the installation, completely eliminates heat loss. The use of such fungi involves the technology of attaching insulation to a wooden wall. The advantage is chemical resistance to negative environmental influences and the ability to withstand heavy operating loads (up to 0.92 kN). The disadvantage is the high price.

When purchasing vinyl mushrooms for attaching foam plastic, you should pay attention to the surface of the plate - it should be rough. When purchasing disc anchors with a metal rod, check for anti-corrosion coating. For thermal insulation of the facades of high-rise buildings, it is better to give preference to mushrooms with a thermal head, which are characterized by high strength and do not allow moisture to penetrate into the mounting hole.

In areas with air temperatures below -40 °C, it is not recommended to use polypropylene dowels due to the possibility of microcracks appearing on the head.

Calculation of the required number of fasteners

According to design rules, the consumption of heat-insulating fungi per 1 m2 is from 4 to 10 pieces. It is not recommended to use more than 10 pieces per m2, since this will not only increase financial costs, but will also significantly reduce the thermal resistance of the building.

DIY installation

Correctly fastening thermal insulation using construction fungi is simple; to do this, it is enough to perform several operations in succession:

Places for fastening elements are marked. Adjacent umbrella dowels can be located at a distance not exceeding 80 cm horizontally and 30 cm vertically.
The fungus is manually pressed into the hole until the plate is completely pressed against the insulation surface. When doweling insulation boards to the ceiling, it is not recommended to use a hammer to ensure better insertion of the fasteners.
The spacer rod is installed and driven in until it is finally fixed.

For overall energy savings and maintaining a comfortable living environment, it is important to know how to attach insulation to the wall during construction or major repairs. This depends on many factors, including the materials of the joining surfaces and the installation method.

What is important to know about preparing the surface for installation of insulation

When the homeowner has a question: how to fix the insulation to the wall, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the work procedure, especially if you want to install it yourself. There is nothing complicated in attaching mineral wool, self-adhesive rolls, packaged insulation or sprayed composition. Even a beginner can do most of the work with his own hands if he takes the advice of experts.

It can be strained and internal. But whatever the method of attaching the insulation to the wall, it is important to comply with simple conditions:

the building should not be dilapidated;
the attached materials should not weigh down the structure or settle under their own weight;
The treated surface should not crumble.

You can begin work on thermal insulation only after an inspection of the walls. It is enough to make sure that the new building has gone through the process of primary shrinkage. If the house has stood for many years without insulation, it is worth inspecting it for serious defects.

You shouldn’t either apply polyurethane foam to a dilapidated building with cracks or insulate the walls of a house that is being demolished!

If the wall is plastered, first tap it lightly so that the surface separated from the base crumbles. In such places, all work is carried out anew. It is recommended to pre-treat the bare wall with a fungicidal compound if there is a suspicion that fungus is present.

You should not spare effort, time and financial costs if the plaster has fallen off along the entire insulated wall. This would happen sooner or later. It would be worse if the plaster separated along with the insulation or crumbled underneath it after finishing onto the mineral wool. After completing the application of plaster in the “bald spots”, its layer should be the same as in other places.

When applying plaster, putty or primer multiple times, each layer must be applied to a completely dry surface.

Careful leveling of the plaster is required only when gluing sheets of foam plastic or materials with similar properties, for example, to a brick wall. For basalt wool (another porous material) and spraying with polyurethane foam, surface treatment with leveling is not required. You don’t have to level the surface even when attaching the insulation to the wall using fungi.

Carry out before fixing the insulation to the wall or in parallel with them. The use of vapor-tight materials without sufficient ventilation requires treatment with antifungal drugs. If the surface comes into contact with heating communications, a heat insulator is attached and treated with a fire-fighting compound. It is especially important to take these factors into account if it is a log house or other structure made of wood that is affected by mold on the outside.

Methods of applying insulation

When the preliminary treatment of the walls is completed, you can proceed to the main stage of insulation work.

Regardless of the method of fastening, there should be no gaps between sheets or rolls. Thin materials cannot be glued together, but precise fit is important. Sheet materials are laid from bottom to top so that they rest on the bottom layer, which is already supported on the wall or other base. When there is no suitable base or you plan to install a “warm floor” soon, it is recommended to install a base profile. This is an aluminum or tin plate with perforations attached to the bottom of the wall to prevent the insulation boards from slipping, as in the photo.

Most roll and foil varieties of insulating material are fixed in the same way as wallpaper, only special glue is needed.

The method for attaching the insulation is shown in the video.

Some foil rolls have one adhesive side. Other roll insulation is attached to plywood panels or a wooden base using staplers directly to the ceiling. Despite its simplicity, this is a more reliable method of fixation than attaching mineral wool under the timber of an attic or bathhouse.

Treatment of metal and wooden surfaces at an angle is often carried out by spraying polyurethane foam. The finished surface resembles a “snowball”, frozen foam or glued foam balls. This method is carried out using a special apparatus that supplies a two-component composition under pressure. Polyurethane foam is sprayed into a thin layer from a nozzle, after which the mixture expands and hardens.

Equipment for spraying PPU insulation is easy to rent. After practicing for 2-3 square meters, you can develop the skill and continue to work without errors.

A correctly chosen installation method guarantees reliable thermal insulation for many years. Some materials do not require fastening. For example, expanded clay is poured between the joists, and layers of stone wool are inserted spaced between the roof beams or frame boards. Further lining with plasterboard or covering with a counter-lattice will secure the standard packaged insulation.

There is also the so-called “warm” plaster, which has recently been used as an additional home improvement product. It is used when leveling walls, applying in 2-3 layers. However, as a masking of gross defects for external walls, it is not effective.

Sometimes it is impossible to do without rough alignment for beacons. When the starting layer has dried, warm plaster is applied. With it, the outer wall of the corner apartment is more comfortable to touch, and it freezes less.

Installation on dowels for fastening insulation with “fungi”

Experts often combine additional fixation with disc-shaped “umbrellas” or “fungi”. This method of fastening is considered mechanical; it involves the use of an electric tool.

For safety reasons, it is important to turn off the electricity supply in a room where there is hidden wiring. A universal tool for working with dowels or a hammer drill is connected through an extension cord from the next room.

The sheets are precisely adjusted along the edges before fastening with “umbrellas”. But you can place rows with offset seams to eliminate cold bridges.

Dowel umbrellas are made of durable polymer, inside of which a metal rod or long nail must be installed. They are used where fixing layers of insulation is impossible in any other way. Installation is simple and reliable:

the insulation plate is pre-fixed with glue (with tight pressing) or a bracket;
the thermal insulation layer is drilled through;
a drill of the required length must be attached to the end of the hammer drill;
deepening is carried out with fixation in the wall by 3-5 cm;
It is sufficient to fix the slabs in the center and at rectangular joints;
dowels for fastening the insulation are joined with locking screws or special rods.

This fastening method is suitable for polymer insulation inside the building and under stone wool siding. Stone wool is a very effective insulation for walls.

If the wall is of small thickness, you need to work carefully, correctly calculating the depth.

How to adhesively fix insulation boards

The easiest way to attach insulation to a wall is to apply glue and press it onto a surface with a dried primer. However, fixation will be incomplete if the surface has:

curvature;
lumpy defects;
protruding beads of cement mixture;
protruding nails or ends of wire, sharp corners of a metal frame protruding outward, etc.

Only convex surfaces cause difficulties. Small concave wall fragments, as a rule, do not interfere with processing.

When fixing the slabs and installing the base profile, the horizontal and vertical lines must be verified with a universal level.

There are different types of adhesive mixtures, but for exterior work, a cement base is most often used. Polymer adhesive is suitable for interior walls.

The cement mixture EK THERMEX or Ceresit CT 190 is prepared according to the classic proportion indicated on the packaging, diluting with a tool with a suitable nozzle to avoid clumping.

It is better to stir the mixture twice with an interval of 10-15 minutes. The rough surface of the foam board will be glued much better. To do this, it is processed with a special grater or roller with a needle attachment. The finished mixture is applied to both surfaces or only to the insulation boards.

If there is no primer, it is better to moisten the untreated wall a little and then glue the slab. Brick or stone masonry, reinforced concrete slabs and cement plaster quickly absorb water from the adhesive mixture; it does not have time to “set”. There is no need to completely cover the insulation area with an adhesive base. It is enough to distribute Ceresite a little around the perimeter or pointwise, in the center and in the corners.

Uneven application of the adhesive mixture will create small air chambers, which provide additional thermal insulation.

Polymer mixtures for fixing (Ceresit CT 84, Insta STIK or Soudabond EASY) are more expensive, but they set faster after pressing the block against the wall. Foam adhesive is sold in cans, which are very convenient to use. They are used in a small area mainly for internal insulation work.

Insulation on the sheathing

Another common method: attaching insulation to a wooden wall or under ventilated facades. It is characterized by minimal fixation rigidity compared to the methods listed above.

Supposed:

Laying a vapor barrier film.
Preparation for installation of the bottom row of insulation using a base profile.
Fastening the timber on top of the vapor barrier along the width of the slabs (approximately 60 cm increments).
Laying mineral wool into the resulting niches and covering with wind protection.

The tighter the insulation is installed, the better the protection, eliminating cold bridges. If there is a “heap” or a protrusion above the foundation of the house, additional support from below in the form of a base profile or complex fasteners for insulation is not required. But it is advisable to first do the waterproofing, and only then start attaching the insulation to the wall.

Obviously, all the described methods of attaching thermal insulation to walls are quite accessible. They are suitable for insulating a country house, corner apartment, cottage with an attic or do-it-yourself bathhouse. Instructions for using the adhesive base can also be found on a can of foam or a bag of dry cement mixture. If you have any questions, for example, whether glue is needed for mineral wool, you should also watch a video with recommendations from a specialist.