Wiring diagram for the distribution panel in the apartment. Assembling an electrical panel with your own hands - step-by-step instructions and recommendations

I replaced the CO-505 meter in the apartment panel with a Mercury 201 meter. Now it is necessary to replace the machines and install an RCD in the apartment panel, this must be done for several reasons. The photo below shows the apartment panel and the diagram of the panel from the developer at the time of delivery of the house.

Why is it necessary to change the automatic devices in the apartment panel and install an RCD? Because the apartment panel was assembled by the developer with gross violations, namely:

Firstly— the cross-section of the input wire of the PPV (commonly called “noodles”), which comes from the floor panel to the apartment panel, is 4 sq. mm. and on such a wire, to protect it, an input circuit breaker of no more than 25A is installed, and the developer installed an input circuit breaker of 40A in the apartment panel, i.e. It turns out that in case of high load in the apartment, our input wire will melt, and the 40A circuit breaker will not turn off. Therefore, it is necessary to install a 25A input circuit breaker in the apartment panel to protect the PPV wire of 4 sq. mm;

Secondly— the outgoing circuit breakers in the apartment panel are set to 25A, which is also a gross violation. Because all household sockets are designed for a current of no more than 16A, and even then, if these sockets are from quality manufacturers, and if they are from Turkey or China, then there will not be 16A there. The lights and sockets in the apartment are connected with a 3x2.5 PPV wire; one wire from the 25A breaker in the apartment panel goes to both the light and the sockets. We will install circuit breakers with a rated current of 16A in the apartment panel so that our sockets do not melt;

Thirdly— let’s throw out all the Chinese IEK machines, and install more reliable “home” ABB machines in the apartment panelSH 200 series;

fourthly— we will install in the apartment panel an RCD from ABB “home” series FH 202 with a rated current of 40A, a step higher than the 25A input circuit breaker. RCDs from well-known ABB brands,Schneider Electric, Legrand does not exist at 32A. I note that we installed a 50A RCD with a leakage current of 30 mA in the floor panel, but again, this is Sassin from China, which you should not trust with your life. But we will not remove the Chinese RCD in the floor panel; we will leave it as additional differential protection.

Because If we add an RCD to the apartment panel, then the layout of the apartment panel will change relative to the original panel diagram from the developer.

Apartment shield. Scheme.

Let's start replacing the machines and RCDs in the apartment panel. First what needs to be done is turn off the input circuit breaker and RCD in the floor panel. Then we unscrew the metal panel (plastron) in the apartment panel and “mark” the wires with electrical tape, blue for the working zero N, yellow-green for protective PE, we don’t touch the phase wire, it remains white. You can apply markings with a regular pen or marker, but you need to be careful with the wires so as not to erase the inscriptions. Our wires are all white (the developer, as usually happens, saves on everything) and it is easy to confuse or forget where in the apartment panel we have a phase, where is zero, and where is the protective conductor.

After this, you can unscrew the wires from the machines. The zero working and protective conductors of the outgoing lines to the apartment can not be touched, because Our machines will be single-pole. First, we install it in the apartment panel on a DIN rail and connect the ABB 25A input circuit breaker. PPV wire 4 sq. mm. Ours is mono-core, so there is no need to crimp it with the NShVI ferrule.

Next, we install and connect into the apartment panel according to the diagram a 40A ABB RCD with a leakage current of 30 mA. We connect the RCD in the apartment panel with a PV-3 stranded wire, the ends of which are crimped with gray NShVI sleeve lugs for 4 sq. mm.

We install single-pole (single-module) ABB SH 201 16A circuit breakers on a DIN rail in the apartment panel.

We will connect the single-pole circuit breakers in the apartment panel with a comb, which we still have after dismantling the IEK circuit breakers.

You should pay attention to ensure that the comb fits, because... It happens that machines and combs from different machines do not fit together well.

The comb is not installed quite level, because... The photo was taken even before the machine contacts were tightened.

We connect the phase wires of the outgoing lines to single-pole circuit breakers in the apartment panel.

We check the tightness of the contacts of the machines and the RCD. We supply voltage to the apartment panel by turning on the RCD in the floor panel. We turn on the 25A input circuit breaker, check the operation of the RCD by pressing the “TEST” button, it should turn off. Next, we supply voltage to consumers in the apartment by turning on single-pole circuit breakers.

If everything works for us, the light is on, then we cover the machines and RCDs in the apartment panel with a metal panel and paste the designations of the machines and RCDs into the apartment panel.

Well, that’s all, we installed and connected ABB automatic circuit breakers and RCDs to the apartment panel. I think that everyone needs to inspect the apartment and floor panels, and, if necessary, eliminate errors, because the electrical safety of your family, house or apartment depends on this, first of all.

Thank you for your attention.

The presence of an electrical panel in a residential building or in a country house allows you to solve two problems at once: distribute the load throughout the room and protect devices in case of accidents. It is advisable that competent organizations deal with this issue, but if you have some skills in handling electricity, then installing an electrical panel and connecting it will not be difficult. As a rule, the main machine and the meter are connected by the electricity supply organization, but after the meter you can do the wiring yourself, only before starting up you will have to invite representatives of this organization so that they check everything and measure everything. Naturally, this will cost some money, but still, it will be much cheaper than if the wiring and installation of the electrical panel were carried out by people from the appropriate company.

The only condition is knowledge of the norms and rules for carrying out such work. After all, the panel, sockets and switches are installed at a certain height.

Depending on whether it is an apartment or a private house, electrical panels can be installed in different ways, depending on where the meter and the input machine are installed. Nowadays, the meter and the input machine, if you take a private house, are installed outside, in a place convenient for control. The panel is installed inside the house, where it is convenient to control electric lighting and operating electrical appliances. Several decades ago, both the meter and protective plugs were installed in the house, which was extremely inconvenient for regulatory organizations. They had to enter private houses, which the owners did not really like. Now, when the meter is located on the street, it is convenient to both control and reduce readings.

Unfortunately, this option is not always and everywhere possible. In this case, the meter is installed in the apartment in the panel where the circuit breakers are located. Therefore, when installing the panel, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the meter and the number of switches.

IN apartment buildings As a rule, meters and input machines are located on staircase landings, in special electrical panels, where several meters are placed at once, serving several apartments. At the same time, no shields are provided in the apartment, especially if the apartment is not of a modern layout. In case of renovation in an apartment, an electrical panel is simply necessary, as this will allow you to share the power supply to almost all rooms, which makes them independent. This is especially true in the event of any accident, when it is possible to provide this line with a separate automatic machine and conduct renovation work. At the same time, in the remaining rooms all electrical appliances will function as before.

Jokes with electricity always end in failure, therefore, the issue of safety should come first. There is such a device as an RCD - device protective shutdown(photo above No. 3), which must be installed in front of the machines that distribute the load in the apartment. This device protects the line even if such leaks are minimal, thereby minimizing electric shock. The RCD is turned on as follows: the phase is connected to the inputs of the machines, and the neutral wire is connected to the neutral common wire. The machines also have built-in protection against overload and short circuits.

Another interesting device that you sometimes cannot do without is a stabilizer. It's no secret that the quality of our power supply is disgusting: the voltage constantly “jumps” from 160 V to 280 V, which negatively affects the operation of some electrical appliances, the operation of which is controlled by microprocessors. In this regard, equipment such as computers, washing machines, refrigerators, audio and video systems require stable voltage. If something happens, their repair can be expensive, therefore, it is better to play it safe and purchase a stabilizer not for the entire apartment, but only for the responsible ones. Appliances. Naturally, you should think about this in advance and combine critical power outlets into one group.

The stabilizer can be installed on one or several groups if you turn it on in front of the machines. At the same time, you need to carefully calculate the required power and take care of a power reserve of at least 20% so that the stabilizer does not overheat. At the same time, you should take into account the fact that the dimensions of the stabilizer will not allow it to be placed in the shield, which means that the stabilizer will have to be installed separately and this must be taken care of in advance.

There are 2 buses in the electrical panel: a grounding bus and a grounding bus. All wires connected to the grounding of instruments and devices are connected to the grounding bus. The wire from the RCD (zero) is connected to the grounding bus. The neutral line is always designated by the letter “N” and when wiring, all white or green-yellow wires are connected to it, and the phase wire is always red or brown. That is why it is advisable to use multi-colored wires for wiring, so that later you do not have to call out each wire. This is especially true for those who are doing this for the first time: you can screw things up that then specialists will have to figure out for several days.

All machines in the panel are connected in parallel, or rather, the upper terminals where the phase is supplied. The lower terminals are each connected to a separate line, which feeds separate rooms.

Option of DIN rails in the panel housing

RCDs and automatic devices are mounted on a special DIN rail using latches, so there should be no problems with installing such devices.

Connecting comb for machines in electrical panels

Schemes for several consumers

Power supply schemes depend on the categories of electrical consumers and their significance. Groups of electrical consumers are distributed by floor, by purpose of the building, by the number of rooms, etc. Usually separate living rooms and outbuildings, basements and garages, as well as street lighting. If there are many consumers, then not on each individual line, in addition to the main RCD, separate RCDs of lower power should be installed. The kitchen and bathroom must be protected with protective devices according to a separate scheme.

If installation of consumers with a power of up to 2.5 kW is planned, then installation of separate protection is desirable. Household appliances such as a microwave, electric kettle and hair dryer have similar power.

At the stage of developing a power supply circuit for electrical consumers, first of all you should think not about savings, but about safety. All electrical appliances are purchased only from well-known companies, and they cost a lot of money.

The manufacturer produces different kinds shields, both for internal and external outdoor installation. Panels for outdoor installation are attached with dowels directly to the wall of the building. If the surface is made of wood (fire hazardous), then a non-combustible material, for example, asbestos, is placed between the surface and the shield. Such shields are installed in places where they do not interfere with normal human life. However, the location must be accessible and convenient to use. The outer shield rises 12-18 cm above the wall surface and this factor must be taken into account when determining the installation location.

The panel for internal installation is designed for installation in a specially prepared niche. This type of shield is always at the same level with the surface, therefore, it does not pose any danger to normal life.

The body of the shield is made of either metal or plastic. The size can be selected to suit any specific conditions.

As a rule, choose a shield of the appropriate size. Everything should fit in it freely circuit breakers, all RCDs and there must be enough space to place the wires. Apart from this, nothing should interfere with the connection.

It is very important to decide in advance on the number of machines and select an electrical panel of appropriate dimensions. At the same time, we should not forget that expansion is possible electrical network. In this case, there should be room in the shield for at least two machines.

Installation and connection of electrical devices

All modern automatic machines and RCDs have a special unified mounting location, which is absolutely compatible with the mounting DIN rail located inside the panel, no matter what its design. A special latch is mounted on the back of the machine or RCD, which can be bent using a screwdriver. Everything is very simple: take a screwdriver and insert it into the hole, after which you need to forcefully pull the latch. The device is installed on the bar and the latch is released. As a result, the machine or RCD is securely held on the DIN rail. At the same time, you can hear a characteristic click.

After installing all electrical devices in their place, proceed directly to the connection. First, connect all the wires that supply power to the corresponding groups of objects. Each wire should have a mark. For example, when laying out wires, you should write on the wires: kitchen, bath, toilet, hallway, bedroom, hall, balcony, etc. If the inscriptions are made in a timely manner, immediately after wiring, then there should be no problems with the connection. After the wires are connected to the lower terminals of each machine, they begin to connect protective devices and supply voltage to all machines. In this case, all machines must be in the off position (“off”).

The phase wire is connected to the upper terminals of all machines through a protective device, and the neutral wire is connected to a separate neutral terminal. Modern requirements predetermine the installation of a two-pole input circuit breaker.

The RCD connection diagram looks like this, as shown in the photo.

How to install an RCD on a DIN rail is shown in the video.

After everything is connected, you need to check everything and only then, one by one, the machines begin to turn on. If you have certain skills, then it is better to check all the wiring using the device for short circuits. After turning on the machine, it is advisable to check the presence of voltage in the room it protects, if not short circuit. If the RCD trips after switching on, it means there is a leak or an indirect short circuit somewhere. In the event of an obvious short circuit, the circuit breaker that was turned on should be triggered. As a rule, group circuit breakers are designed for a lower operating current, which means a lower short-circuit current. This approach ensures selectivity of protection.

How to properly connect an RCD: video.

In progress self-connection All elements located in the panel, you should know that the counter and the input machine are subject to sealing. Modern electrical panels have everything covered. Unfortunately, not every model is equipped with a separate box where an introductory machine is installed. If this is not provided for, then the organization will either refuse to seal and write an order, or seal the entire shield, without the right to access it in the future.

In the following video you can see what types of machines there are and how they differ from one another, except for the manufacturer.

Electrical appliances installed inside the panel are connected to each other using jumpers made of ordinary insulating wire or using a factory-made comb. What it is like to connect circuit breakers with wires can be found in the photo.

Jumpers are manufactured:

From conductors of the appropriate length, in which the insulation is removed at both ends, and the ends of the conductors are bent with an arc. Two conductors are inserted into each terminal and only one into the outermost circuit breaker, after which they are securely tightened with screws.
From one long conductor, from which the insulation is removed after a certain distance. After this, using pliers and pliers, the conductor is bent in arcs. The bare ends of the arcs are inserted into the terminals and tightened with screws.

Almost all electricians do this, and if you show care and diligence, the contacts will turn out good. At the same time, there is Alternative option when instead of conductors special tires (combs) are used. How to connect all the machines using a bus can be seen in the video.

The phase wire is connected to one of the machines, to the top terminal, where they are connected using a wire or comb. If a wire was used for connection, then power is supplied either to the far right or to the far left machine, where only one conductor is pressed. If you connect the power to other machines, the connection will not be as reliable, since the terminals of these machines already have two conductors and the third conductor is simply superfluous.

The right choice of machines

Three types of electrical devices can be installed in the electrical panel:

Automatic switches (automatic machines). Switching on and off is done manually, and if there is a short circuit, the machine is triggered automatically.
RCD (residual current device). These devices respond to increased currents leaks and shut down the line under such conditions.
Dif-automatic (differential automatic). This device is capable of protecting the line both from short circuits and from increased leakage currents.

So-called differential circuit breakers can replace RCDs and circuit breakers. This is especially true when there is a lack of space.

Due to the fact that differential circuit breakers are much more expensive than a simple circuit breaker and an RCD combined, two devices are installed - a circuit breaker and an RCD. In addition, in emergency modes it is possible to determine what exactly is causing the problem. If it is a short circuit, then the machine is triggered, and if there is a leak somewhere, then the RCD is triggered. If the automatic differential works, it is unlikely that the true cause will be established. In this case, you will have to look for the cause, armed with instruments.

How do machine guns protect?

Automatic switches (circuit breakers) are selected according to their operating current, which is determined by the total current consumption of devices of the corresponding group. To determine the current, you need to add up all the powers of electrical household appliances connected to a given line and divide by 220V. The circuit breaker is selected with some margin so that it does not turn off due to overload. For example, with a total power of 6.6 kW (6600W), if divided by 220V, you get 30A.

Machines are produced with the following current ratings: 6A, 10A, 16A, 20A, 25A, 32A, 40A, 50A and 63A. Based on the calculations, a machine with an operating current of 32A is more suitable, and that is what needs to be installed.

Types and types of RCD

The industry produces RCDs of 2 types: electronic-mechanical and electronic. They differ in some parameters; in addition, electronic-mechanical ones are somewhat more expensive. Those that are more expensive are suitable for a house or apartment. The fact is that they are still more reliable and operate regardless of the presence of power.

If you turn off the input circuit breaker and do something, then if the insulation is damaged, the electronic-mechanical RCD will trip and the reason will immediately become clear. In order for the electronic RCD to work, voltage is required, and it will work only after the input circuit breaker is turned on. As a result, you will have to look for the cause of the emergency shutdown.

To determine which device it is, it is enough to have a battery with wires that connect to any pair of contacts. If it is an electronic RCD, then it will not work, but an electronic-mechanical one will work. You can learn more about this by watching the video.

In this case, RCDs are distinguished by the nature of the current on which they act:

AC type – variable, sinusoidal;
Type A – variable plus pulsating constant;
Type B – alternating plus pulsating, plus pulsating direct, plus direct current;

Based on the characteristics, type B is the most versatile device, but they are much more expensive. For a home, type A is sufficient, although RCDs of type AC are also sold as the cheapest. Although many argue that the AC type is not suitable. In fact, an AC type RCD is sufficient for a home, considering that few people install them at all. The fact is that although they provide full protection, the percentage of false alarms not associated with emergency modes is quite high, and not everyone will like this. This is due to interference appearing in the electrical network from the operation of various household appliances. Fighting them is very difficult, quite expensive, and sometimes pointless.

RCDs are selected according to rated current and leakage current. Rated or operating current is the current that passes through the contacts without overheating or damaging them. The operating current of the RCD is always selected to be greater than the operating current of the machine operating in tandem with the RCD. If the machine is designed for an operating current of 25 A, then the operating current of the RCD can be 32 A or even 40 A. As for the leakage current, everything is not at all complicated. For apartments and houses, RCDs with leakage currents of 10 mA and 30 mA will be used. A 10 mA RCD is installed on a line designed for one device, such as a gas boiler, washing machine, electric oven, etc.

In addition, they are installed in premises where it is required high degree protection. This could be a bathroom, children's room, kitchen, etc. A 30 mA RCD is installed on a line that supplies several electrical consumers. These can be groups of outlets located in separate rooms. As a rule, an RCD is not installed on the lines that control the lighting. The only place where it may be needed is a garage, as a very important building.

The electrical panel is designed to distribute electricity and protect electrical wiring from overloads and short circuits. If previously a meter with a couple of automatic machines was enough to control the home electrical network, now everything has changed. More recently, 800 W of power was enough for the entire apartment. But now electricity consumption has reached 7 kW and even higher. The photo below shows the old (a) and modern (b) electrical wiring protection systems.

Old and new system protection of electrical wiring

As power consumption increases, today's network requires reliable protection devices. You can connect the electrical panel correctly by turning to specialists for help, or by assembling it yourself. In both cases, you need to understand its structure, electrical diagram, with installation requirements and rules, and also have the skills of an electrician.

In a wooden house, electrical installations should be done with special care and in compliance with fire safety rules.

Selecting an electrical panel

When choosing and installing an electrical panel, the following requirements apply to it:

The box must accommodate the required amount of equipment, and even with a small margin. The size is determined by the number of elements typed. A single-pole circuit breaker consists of 1 module. The remaining devices are made with dimensions that are multiples of its size. The two-terminal network is made of two modules, and the size of the counter can be more than eight. If you calculate the required number of devices, you can select the desired box. Models are sold by size or number of modules that can fit inside, such as a 12- or 36-module device.
The electrical panel is made of non-flammable material with an electrical safety sign indicating the rated voltage. The material is metal with a non-conductive coating or thermoplastic. The devices can withstand significant mechanical loads, and by design you can always find what you need.
External and internal wires in the shield are marked using tags, where groups of elements should be indicated.
The neutral and ground wires are connected to the blocks - one for each terminal. Tires are marked in blue for zero and black for phase.
The choice of machines is made according to the cable cross-section. If a 2.5 mm 2 copper conductor is installed, the maximum permissible current for it will be 25 A. The parameters of the RCD or automatic circuit breaker are selected from the standard range in a decreasing direction, which is 16 A. It is advisable to connect the devices to each other with a busbar.
The metal box must be grounded through the doors and body.
Each box is sold with a passport, which indicates the type and class of the electrical panel, level of protection, precautions, installation method and other data.
External wiring is inserted into the box in metal pipes or sleeves. Under the electrical panel of the internal installation, grooves for cable bundles are hollowed out to it (Fig. below).

Installation of an electrical panel with hidden wiring

Shield design

The type of product depends on how the box is designed. The device may be as follows:

built-in – for hidden electrical wiring(pic. below);
overhead – in rooms with open wiring;
floor-standing – mainly for industry.

The first type of box is inserted into a furnished niche and looks more attractive. Only the cover is visible on the wall and there are no protruding parts.

Built-in electrical panel

The inconvenience is the need to make a niche if it is not provided for in the design of the house. It is advisable to make a false wall from plasterboard. The box is attached through the back wall with the edges secured with glue or plaster.

It is prohibited to drill niches in load-bearing walls for electrical boxes!

The overhead model is universal. Open and hidden wiring can be connected to it.

The box for the equipment is made in the form of a box with a door (Fig. below). Inside it there are DIN rulers for installing a counter, machines and other equipment.

Overhead electrical panel

The metal box contains holes for wires at the top and bottom. Break-out hatches are made in a plastic case. The entry of wires into the box is protected using couplings and seals.

Electrical circuit and its creation

Electrical diagrams are necessary to install panels and circuits with your own hands, and they are also required by electricians when checking work. They can be drawn by hand or created using special programs. It is important that the circuit is made correctly and ensures convenient operation of the home electrical network.

First, the type of network to be connected is determined. In apartments it is single-phase, but in private houses it can be similar or three-phase.

The type of grounding system can be TNC, TN-S or TN-C-S. The first of them, combining grounding and neutral, was created according to old standards and is not used in new houses.

The schematic diagram of a typical electrical panel is shown in Fig. below. It shows symbols only.

Electrical diagram of the panel

A single-pole circuit breaker with a counter is installed at the single-phase input. Behind them there is a general fire protection RCD. At the next stage, all consumers are divided into groups. Where necessary, differential automatic machines are installed. If they are not needed, circuit breakers will suffice. The optimal distribution by room is as follows:

groups of sockets;
lighting with switches;
separate automatic machines for the bathroom and powerful electrical appliances: washing machine, water heater, air conditioner, electric stove.

The technical characteristics of the machines are selected for each group.

The simplest diagram of an electrical panel with a branching into 3 lines is shown in Fig. below.

Electrical panel diagram with three electrical lines

Power is supplied to the meter (phase - red, zero - green), then goes to machines 1-3 and to the loads. The yellow color indicates the ground wire. It protects not only electrical appliances, but also the shield.

When connecting the meter, it is important not to confuse the phase and neutral terminals. All necessary explanations are in the instructions for it.

Shield elements

In the store you can buy a box right away with standard equipment, but often you need to select the elements yourself, according to the developed scheme. The types of elements and their purposes are as follows:

DIN rails for placing equipment are metal plates that are attached to the electrical panel.
Automatic input switch is an automatic switch for supplying electricity to a facility in the event of a circuit overload or short circuit (short circuit).
Electricity consumption meter, installed in a separate box or together with other equipment. The type of meter can be induction or electronic. The connection diagrams for both are the same.
Automatic switches that protect electrical wiring (selected according to the size and nature of the loads). They are selected with a focus on the highest current permissible for a certain wire cross-section when the load is on. The devices themselves can be protected from destruction by built-in fuses. The machine can operate instantly during a short circuit or after 15-60 minutes if the load current slightly exceeds the rated one.
Distribution busbars for zero and grounding (can be open or closed).
RCDs are devices for protecting people from electric shock. In addition, they prevent fire if a leakage current occurs in the wire. Instead, it is possible to use differential circuit breakers that additionally perform the function of a circuit breaker. In this case, instead of two devices, one is installed in the panel. This saves space. The nominal value of the device is chosen to be the same or one step higher than that of the machine in front of it.
Sometimes a voltage relay is installed in the panels. This is not necessary, but if you have expensive electronics in your home, it is useful. If the voltage deviates from the set values, the circuit is broken. In addition, the device shows how the voltage in the circuit changes over time.
Electrical wiring is a means of making connections.

The electrical wiring in the apartment is divided into groups and the load is calculated for each of them, after which the required sections of the cores are calculated, and the appropriate machine is selected. The layout is done approximately like this:

groups of lighting and sockets in the hallway and bathroom (6 A, automatic);
bedroom and hall lighting groups (6 A, automatic switch);
lighting with sockets in the kitchen (16 A, automatic);
groups of sockets in the living room and bedroom (16 A, automatic);
separate connection to the electric stove, washing machine, air conditioner (depending on the power of consumers, an automatic switch is used).

For a group of sockets on the security system and home router, a 6 A circuit breaker is installed (you can add an uninterruptible power supply).

As a result, the total power when all loads are turned on simultaneously will be about 7 kW. For the internal network, a 32 A two-pole input circuit breaker should be installed here.

Installation and laying of wires is carried out with the following color markings:

L – phase wire of white, red or brown color;
N – zero blue wire;
PE – yellow-green grounding.

Assembly Rules

The color coding of the cores must be observed.
Connections and installation of devices are carried out so that the inside of the panels are arranged clearly and clearly without a diagram (Fig. below). The more order they have, the easier it is to maintain.
Power connections are made from top to bottom (more powerful devices are installed higher). With this placement, the electrical panel can be de-energized faster in the event of an accident.
Power is supplied to the input last, when a final check of all connections has been made. Individual lines are tested for operability using temporary switching circuits.

Correctly assembled electrical panel

Installation work

An accessible location is selected for the shield. It is usually installed in the hallway, close to the power cable input. The installation height is 1.5-1.7 m. The meter is placed in a special shield box with an inspection window. Holes are made in the wall to secure the box with dowels or screws.

When the shield is installed on the wall, it can be assembled as follows:

All groups of apartment wires are brought in advance to the panel where installation will be carried out. They should be marked to make it easier to assemble the circuit.
DIN rails are attached to the shield with self-tapping screws for installing devices.
A busbar is installed in the upper part for the neutral, and in the lower part for grounding.
An input machine is installed on top.
An introductory machine can be placed in a separate box, as for the counter.
Groups of machines are placed from top to bottom, as power decreases. A special bus is used as jumpers between them or they are made from copper wire cross section 4 mm. It is more convenient when the arrangement of devices in the panel and on the electrical circuit is the same.
Cables and wires are inserted through holes into the box. The outer braid is cut off from them and the connection points are laid according to color. There should always be a reserve for further repairs. Connect the neutral wires to the top bus. Power is supplied to the upper terminals of the machines, and loads are connected to the lower terminals (phase connection to electrical groups). The cross-section of the wires is reduced, starting from the input and to areas with loads. The cross-section of the ground wire should not be less than that of the phase wire at the input. Twisting and the formation of coils should not be allowed. The power and neutral wires are routed on opposite sides of the panel.
If the new meter is not connected, power to power tools and lighting can be supplied from the old one. The wires are brought out close to the meter so that the controller can later make the connection and seal the device.
After connecting each group, it is advisable to check its functionality by applying voltage through a temporary connection circuit.

First, you should assemble the switchboard without switching, marking the installation locations of the devices (test assembly in the figure below). In this case, it should be possible to quickly turn off the power from inside and outside.

Trial assembly of the shield without switching

When the shield is closed, it must be possible to quickly check the presence of voltage using an indicator screwdriver or light bulb.

Floor shield

The floor panel (SHB) is located on the floor and belongs to several apartments. Usually it is locked and can only be opened with the help of the housing office electrician on duty. Residents are prohibited from accessing electrical equipment in the switchboard. They can only turn on the machines after operation by opening a special cover.

In Fig. Below is a schematic diagram of a floor board with wiring for three apartments.

Floor electrical panel diagram

All entrance switchboards are powered from a common riser (buses of phases L 1 L 2 L 3 and N in the figure above). In older housing stock, a TN-C type grounding system is used. Each phase is connected to a separate apartment, and the neutral wire bus is common. The power after the meter goes to the RCD, and then there is a branching on the line in the apartment (lighting, sockets and electric stoves). There should also be a packet switch in front of the meter, but it is not indicated on this diagram.

Modernization of the power supply can be done if you obtain permission from the housing office, and then buy the necessary devices that correspond to the required power and protective functions . The electrician will then make the following changes:

The power supply is being replaced aluminum cable on copper of a suitable cross-section. The connection is made with a special terminal for dissimilar conductors.
Instead of old circuit breakers, new ones with the necessary characteristics are connected.
Old grounding and neutral wires are being replaced with modern ones.

A radical way to replace electrical equipment in the electrical distribution board will be done by installing a separate box in the apartment and moving the meter into it. A batch switch or switch with fuse links should be installed in the interfloor panel. This requires permission from the housing office.

Due to the fact that new devices are constantly appearing, you need to leave room for them in the dashboard. Among them are, for example, the following:

power consumption limiter;
power consumption meter (not a meter);
phase balancing control device.

Installation. Video

You can learn about the installation features of the electrical panel by watching this video.

There is nothing difficult in choosing and assembling electrical panels for machines, meters and other equipment. It is important to correctly select, calculate the parameters and install electrical equipment in them, connecting it with wires. The diagram should be clear and easy to maintain.

An electrical panel is a device, often located near the entrance to a room, that serves to distribute electricity; it directs current to outlets and various appliances and devices.

An electricity meter is most often installed in the panel; it takes into account and calculates all energy costs. Most panel models provide for the connection of both residual current devices (RCDs) and automatic circuit breakers. They protect against network overvoltage and the risk of short circuits and are connected to the circuit immediately after the electricity meter.

Often you have to deal with the problem of connecting or replacing the machine in the panel. To do this work yourself, you will need a number of tools and, of course, compliance with safety precautions. Before, for example, using a separate new machine, you must turn off the power using the general switch. If there is none, then working under voltage is prohibited!

There are many connection diagrams and a whole carload of subtleties, so if you are not sure what you are doing, then it is better to entrust this work to a professional. Now we will look at connecting the machine in the panel for protection single-phase network. It is this network that is most often used in apartments and country houses, this is a so-called two-wire circuit, in which one wire is a phase, the other is a neutral.

Having removed the cover from the device, you can see a lot of wires and several already installed machines (unless, of course, you are installing the machine in a completely new panel), which are usually signed by conscientious electricians. Often the inscriptions are located directly on the panel, and therefore it is advisable to immediately designate the new machine that you are going to install. The easiest way to install a new machine to an existing one is to repeat the connection diagram that you will see. Moreover, it is advisable to save .

You need to remove the top insulation from the cable and strip each core about a centimeter. It is advisable to do this after you have decided on the required length of each core for free connection to the terminals. If the terminal blocks of the “grounding” and “zero” wires have not yet been installed, then this needs to be done. The latter are usually blue.

Next, we connect the grounding and neutral conductors to the corresponding terminal blocks. Those. Now you need to attach a grounding conductor to one of the clamps; a similar procedure must be done for the “zero” conductor of the cable. Only now can we move on to the main issue - connecting the machine.

A mounting DIN rail is installed (if it is not already installed), onto which the switches will “snap.” You can move on to this right away, or you can first install a relay - an inexpensive option for the home that copes well with power surges. Then supply power to the first machine from the input or from the relay, if available. It should be connected to the rest from above using cable jumpers, but with a distribution bus the work will be faster and easier. Next, the wires are connected to the machines. It should look the same as in the picture.

On a note: best option- a ten-Amp machine, sometimes sixteen, but it does not provide adequate protection, although it is installed in most homes. By following these recommendations, it is possible correct connection circuit breaker.

With an increase in electricity consumption and the number of appliances in the house, there is a need to replace standard panels with so-called “plugs” with modern machines. The optimal solution to the situation is to delegate such work to professionals. But if you have the knowledge, skills and patience collected detailed recommendations They will help you install and assemble the shield yourself.

General questions about electrical panels

This device is required for installation in apartments and private houses. The shield performs several important functions for a comfortable and safe stay:

input and distribution of electricity;
creating suitable operating conditions for devices and wiring (voltage regulation).

Choosing an electrical panel is a fairly important stage, at which you can already make the first mistake. Some residents try to select components that will fit organically into the interior, and at the same time do not think about the properties of the materials.

One should not lose sight of the fact that the installation of an electrical panel can only be carried out if it is made of fire-resistant materials. It is also important to consider its capacity, since during operation it will be necessary to uniformly arrange the elements of the electricity input and distribution system.

Installation and installation of the switchboard

Before starting installation, it is necessary to draw up detailed diagram shield To do this, you need to determine the power supply system used in a particular room. Then you need to group the consumption points.

Most often used next diagram groupings:

room sockets;
switches and lighting;
other electrical appliances.

It is important to know! For connection to the panel of boilers, washing and dishwashers use separate groups. It is also necessary to take into account that for each device they use different machines that differ in characteristics.

Table of examples on the use of machines in an electrical panel circuit.

We begin internal installation

Once the diagram is drawn up, the installation procedure can begin. It is recommended to take shields that are designed for large quantity connections (than is in the diagram). This will reduce costs during further modernization of the premises.

For reference! For work we will need the following tools: Phillips and straight screwdrivers, pliers, a tool for removing insulation from wires, a multimeter.

Modern technologies used in the manufacture of panels make it possible to secure the automatic devices and additional devices necessary for the distribution of electricity using DIN rails.

The use of such structures allows you to assemble the shield elements in just 4 steps:

1) Attach the machine to the rack with the rear groove.

2) Slightly pull out the fastening latch using a screwdriver.

3) Apply slight pressure on the body of the machine.

4) Release the latch to secure the element.

For successful installation of an electrical panel, it is important to consider what type of panel is used and how the site for its installation is prepared. For hidden wiring It would be more rational to install a built-in or hidden shield. For its installation to be successful, you need to prepare a niche in the wall (if one is not provided for by the layout of the room). After the housing is installed, you can begin connecting groups of electricity consumers, input cables and electricity meters.

Assembly instructions

The electrical panel includes introductory machine, electric meter (if necessary), RCD, standard circuit breakers, neutral and grounding busbars. The DIN rail serves as the basis for installing the machines.

After installing the rail, assemble the shield in this order:

input machine;
universal machines;
zero bar;
grounding strip.

The input circuit breaker must be three-pole when three-phase current, two-pole with single-phase, similar to an RCD (residual current device) and an electric meter. Connections are secured using factory “combs” or homemade designs made from copper wire.

Important to remember! The wiring must be made of the same material and connected uniformly.

For reference! Blue indicates common zero, red indicates phase, yellow-green indicates grounding.

When installing electric meter you should limit yourself to connecting wires to it, and then call a specialist who will make the final connection. After installation, be sure to pay attention to whether the smell of burnt wiring spreads throughout the room.

What else do you need to know?

Here are a few more requirements and tips for beginners and experienced electricians:

1) When installing an apartment panel, you should always remember safety precautions and perform work only on a de-energized network.

2) Do not skimp on units.

3) Entrust the calculations of the parameters of the RCD, input and other circuit breakers, the cross-section and material of the wires to professionals.

4) After six months of operation, the contacts must be broached.

5) Install a box with a child safety lock.

6) Remember the need to seal the meter.

7) Label the machines.

8) Maintain uniformity in connections, materials, markings and documentation.

Adequately assess your capabilities and do not hesitate to ask for help. The safety of living in a room directly depends on the proper functioning of the electrical wiring.