How to build an extension to a house. Extension to a house - the most interesting projects and main types of extensions (130 photos). Extension made of foam concrete

If the owner personal plot decided that he needed an extension to a brick house, the first thing he needed to do was decide on the purpose of this structure. If it will be used for recreation, it can be built in the format of a gazebo or terrace. If necessary, the veranda can be insulated and turned into a closed terrace, which will serve as a vestibule between the land plot and the entrance to the house. This will prevent cold air from entering the living space. For those who live in a house during the autumn-winter period, an insulated extension will be an ideal option.

The extension can serve as a porch, terrace, as well as a kind of vestibule for a brick house.

Before starting construction, the extension to the house must be designed and approved by the relevant organization. Most often, the veranda is built from the side front door. If it is not combined with the entrance to the house, then you will have to enter it from the street. The dimensions of the structure are selected depending on the number of people living in the house. For a small family, an area of ​​12 sq.m. is sufficient. When designing, it is necessary to take into account the general style of the house and the site. Before making an extension to a brick house, you need to complete some formalities. Once the design has been thought out, you should contact the building design department. Here you can order finished project, with which you will go to the city architectural bureau to obtain permission to redevelop the house. Let's take a closer look at how to make an extension to your house with your own hands.

The first step is to mark the area and begin building the foundation.

It is quite possible to make an extension to a brick house correctly with your own hands. You need to start by marking the territory. To do this, remove the fertile layer of soil, which will later be used to form flower beds and flower beds. The territory is leveled and marked.

The boundaries of the extension are designated according to the project. At the corners of the veranda under construction, pegs are driven in with a nylon cord stretched between them. Any building requires a reliable foundation, for which you can choose a columnar or strip foundation. It is not recommended to combine the foundation for an extension with the base of the house, since these structures have different degrees of shrinkage.

A distance of 4-5 cm must be left between the base of the house and the extension. When constructing the base, the planned mass of the structure and soil characteristics should be taken into account. During construction on heaving soils the foundation may shift, which leads to the separation of the veranda from the walls of the house. Lightweight foundations cannot support the weight of brick walls, so it is not recommended to build a brick extension on their basis. It is best to choose a strip foundation for an extension.

Before pouring concrete for the foundation, a trench is dug, the dimensions of which depend on the parameters of the veranda being built. A wooden formwork of the appropriate design, which is made from boards nailed together, is placed in the pit. Concrete is prepared from 3 parts sand, 1 part cement, 6 parts crushed stone. The foundation for the extension is poured in layers, the first layer is reinforced with large stones. The top layer is smoothed with a trowel and left until completely hardened.

At high air temperatures, the foundation for the extension is periodically moistened with water, this will help avoid the appearance of cracks.

A frame extension to a brick house can be installed on a columnar base. In order to avoid deformation of the building under the influence of soil heaving, foundation supports are laid at a depth below the frost line.

When building a brick extension, support pillars are dug in not only at the corners, but also along the perimeter of the structure in increments of 50 cm.

Building the walls of the extension

In construction you will need the following materials and tools:

• brick;
• cement;
• sand;
• crushed stone;
• fittings;
• shovel;
• container for preparing the solution;
• Master OK;
• wooden beams;
• thermal insulation material;
• roofing material.

If you want to quickly build a veranda, you can opt for a frame structure. It is assembled according to the principle of a designer and consists of a wooden frame and ready-made panels with windows and doorways. Finishing work can be carried out immediately after construction. If necessary, the extension can be redone. Now let's look at how to properly make an extension to a brick building.

A brick extension to a house is more difficult to construct, but you can still build it with your own hands. Before starting construction of walls, you need to check the evenness of the foundation surface. If it is uneven, the brickwork may collapse during shrinkage. The attachment of the extension to the brick wall of the building is carried out using holes that are made every 3 brick rows. They contain reinforcement. When building a brick extension to a house, the reinforcement will remain in the masonry joints. To ensure that the distance between the bricks is not too large, the reinforcing bars should not have a diameter that is too large.

Before formation brickwork A rope is pulled along the wall, with the help of which the horizontality of the rows will be checked. The thickness of the wall depends on the purpose of the brick extension. If the veranda is residential, the wall is laid out 2 bricks thick. For utility rooms, brickwork can be done in 1 row. After the walls are built, their upper parts are reinforced with a concrete belt. To do this, formwork is made, into which a reinforcement frame is laid and concrete is poured. After the concrete has hardened, construction of the floors begins. A garage is attached to the house using the same technology; its dimensions depend on the dimensions of the vehicles. A wooden extension is a more economical option for arranging a veranda.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=aiKvobQgVG8

How to make an extension roof

At the final stages, the ceiling is built; wooden beams are used for this. They are installed on the upper parts of the walls in increments of 70 cm. The structural elements are fixed with construction corners.

beams can be combined with a concrete belt, having waterproofed each element in advance. Thick plywood is placed on top of the beams or wooden boards, which are then insulated. An extension to a house can have any roof shape. Most often, single-pitch options are made, consisting of rafters. A mark is made on the wall in the form of a straight line along which the bars supporting the rafters will be fixed. The rafters are supported by floor beams or the tops of walls. The rafters should protrude 30 cm from the walls to protect them from rain and melt water. The roof elements are fixed using metal corners.

As a conclusion

The quality of the extension depends on the chosen project and materials. Extension to wooden house or a brick cottage can be made of prefabricated panels, wood or brick. Anyone with minimal knowledge in the field of construction can build it with their own hands. The foundation for the extension can be strip or columnar.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ip8Qtea7D4

Any of these bases requires high-quality waterproofing.

Time passes, and it turns out that the private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We’ll tell you in this article how to do this efficiently and without extra costs.

Save money without harming quality – requirements for premises and materials

Poorly thought out design of an extension will eventually force something to be altered or completed, or added to the country house. In order to avoid getting into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with choosing a location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific characteristics in connection with its use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing, and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room at the dacha, then this is tantamount to the construction small house. It is necessary to reliably insulate and prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Another common type of extension is kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about utilities and install them even before construction begins. It is much more convenient to lay sewer and water pipes before pouring the foundation than to dig underneath it later. The waterproofing of the floor covering requires increased attention. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then you can save on this.

The house is being expanded by adding a veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer holiday, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many variants: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to complex with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing the foundation is necessary.

The extension to the house must be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has external decoration, then it will not be difficult to repeat it in the attached room. All materials go well with wood, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option would be a frame structure:

• it is built quickly, literally in a few months;
• does not require a capital foundation because it is lightweight;
• without special knowledge and skills, it can be built with your own hands;
• will cost less.

The foundation for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching a structure to a house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this regard, frame structures that do not shrink vertically compare favorably.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows off. If this is an extension to a side wall, then the roof follows the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.

Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For columnar foundation Extensions to the house use concrete, brick or a combination of both. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the input will be required engineering communications to the house. Since the protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, such expenses can be incurred, and it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards; for concrete, you will need a lot of backfill material and a fence around the perimeter.

We start by marking the area, the installation locations of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate hole of 50x50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than freezing of the soil. At the top we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a 10 cm layer of sand, carefully compact it, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted.

We lay out the film for waterproofing and bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, pour a little concrete mortar into each hole for the base and wait for it to set. When planning concrete pillars, we tie reinforcement at the top along the entire height and lower them into the pits. We ensure equal distance between the walls. We place pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make formwork for the base, inside which we run the film. We pour the concrete in layers, pierce each layer several times with a rod to release air bubbles. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it sets, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, water heavily and cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation reaches the required strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the pillars and immediately glue pieces of roofing felt for waterproofing. There is space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill in to insulate the floor. We use ordinary soil mixed with crushed stone or pieces of brick. Fill in layers of 10 cm and tamp. The technology for constructing a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.

Getting started - bottom frame and extension floor

So, we settled on the frame option as the fastest and cheapest. In order for wood to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bitumen mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.

Then we make the bottom trim. Usually 150x150 mm timber is used, but it is possible to use 150x50 mm boards. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, aligned with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is strip, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then lay it down. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The result is a binding of the required thickness, which also has additional advantages:

• costs much less than beams;
• It’s very easy to connect with each other, but with bars it’s more difficult.

We attach the bottom frame to the beds from the same 150x50 mm boards, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next we install logs made of similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the trim board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now let's start insulating the floor. The cheapest, although not very environmentally friendly option, is tile polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg/m3. Its advantage is that it is the only insulation material that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50x50 mm bars to the lower edges of the logs, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the bottom and top rows overlap.

The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. To prevent it from warping over time, we lay it alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we place one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if there are edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We lay it directly along the joists.

Wall installation - two assembly technologies

There are two technologies for assembling frame buildings. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is immediately sheathed, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. A shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; assistants will be needed.

We begin the construction of the frame with the corner posts. For them and intermediate posts we use timber 150×150 mm or even 100×100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We position the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. This way we will save on waste-free use of material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.

Fastening can be done simply and reliably using metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and secured with stainless steel screws. Before finally fixing the stand, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will cause the entire extension to bend.

Temporary bevels, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the casing is made of hard and durable material like plywood, OSB, GVK, it is capable of independently strengthening the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary slopes. When soft material is planned for the cladding: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be avoided. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.

At the places where windows and doors are installed, we attach crossbars. We make double racks next to them: they experience increased loads and must be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper trim. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and the actual harness made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor joists were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150x50 boards on the edge.

We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of the racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.

Shed roof - design and technology

The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one; all that remains is to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is made of a pitched roof. The slope is ensured by the difference in height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.

The roof is supported by rafters, which we lay on beams. They are made from thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground according to a template so that they are all the same. Then after installation in place there will be no need to align horizontally. We treat the grooves with mastic, install them and fasten them to the walls with brackets and metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.

We lay the sheathing on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material, we make it continuous or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for continuous wooden flooring arises when using soft material; we make sparse material for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten corrugated sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws having sealing washers, and ondulin with nails with a wide head. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.

Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension

Mineral wool and polystyrene foam are mainly used to insulate buildings. Mineral wool resists fire and has low thermal conductivity. They are light in weight and have a consumer-friendly release form: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation material is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, not afraid of fungus, moisture, rotting. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it, and in case of fire it emits toxic gases.

We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:

1. 1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut strips of the required sizes. We fasten with staples using a construction stapler, so as to ensure overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
2. 2. Place insulation between the studs. We ensure a tight fit to the wooden structures, close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
3. 3. We attach the vapor barrier, even if we use polystyrene foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the wood. We perform fastening in the same way as waterproofing.
4. 4. We cover the walls from the inside. We use plasterboard over a perfectly flat frame or OSB if there are any unevenness. It is tougher and smoothes out imperfections.

All that remains is the interior and exterior decoration, which leaves room for the owner’s imagination. A frame extension is built quickly, cheaply, lasts for decades, and can be built with virtually no outside help.

Some time after the construction of a house, there is often a need to expand the usable area. The only way out of this situation is to build an extension to a wooden house. With proper design of the structure and selection of appropriate materials, this activity can be completed independently.

What do you need to know?

The construction of any object requires the creation of a project that is based on calculations. The construction of an extension to a wooden house is no exception. In this case, a design solution should be provided that would eliminate the occurrence of cracks. When choosing the architectural form of the extension, we must not forget about the need to create a complex that is uniform in style.

In addition, it should be understood that the construction of the extension must be approved by the relevant organization and have all the necessary accompanying documentation. Otherwise, the constructed facility will be considered an unauthorized construction and in the future the developer will have to resolve the issue of legalizing it.

Types of extensions

Before starting the construction of an extension to a wooden house, you should study possible options structures and technological features of their construction. After analyzing the information, the choice of materials and work technology is greatly simplified. This approach will allow the extension to be harmoniously connected to the existing building.

Canopy. This is the simplest extension design. It is necessary to protect the porch and people from sunlight and bad weather. In addition, under the canopy you can spend leisure time and receive guests.

The construction of a canopy does not necessarily require the construction of a strong foundation. Installing pillars that act as supports can provide a fairly solid foundation. A frame is mounted to them, and the surface of the walls is designed depending on the taste preferences of the developer.

A wooden house may need an extension

Summer room. It is often built out of an extension. The room is intended for relaxation and serves as a place for friendly feasts. As the foundation of such an extension, a strip or column foundation is constructed. The material used for the walls of the frame structure is plywood, boards or brick.

In order to create better illumination, the walls are made partially glazed. The roof of a summer room can have one or two slopes, and it is undesirable to make its structure heavier. Insulation or creation heating system in such a room is impractical.

Living room. The construction of a full-fledged living room implies a full construction cycle. When constructing a foundation, use block or monolithic structure. Brick, foam blocks or timber are used to build walls. When building a roof, a layer of waterproofing is required. The entire structure of the structure must also be properly insulated.

Kitchen. Arranging an extension indoors is quite a complex undertaking. This is due to the fact that in addition to the construction of a capital structure, all communications are required, including sewerage and ventilation.

Garage. This structure is built on a surface on which walls made of bricks or blocks are located. Also under construction reliable roof made of slate, metal tiles or corrugated sheets. In addition, the room must be well ventilated.

Porch. Often, when constructing various structures of extensions, it is necessary to build a porch. The material can be concrete, timber or metal. If the porch is of significant height or has a turn, railings must be installed.

Installation features

The construction of an extension to a wooden house largely depends on how the room is intended to be used and whether it will be residential. If necessary capital construction it is necessary to build a reliable foundation, separate from the base of the main building and the wall. It is also necessary to lay communications.

The main problem with building an extension is connecting it to the house. If there are omissions at this stage, then the formation of cracks in the structural elements of the structure is inevitable.

There are the following methods of connecting structures:

• Construction of an independent building. The method is used in the case of construction on moving soil. The base is arranged closed around the perimeter, having no points of contact with the main foundation. The gaps between the surfaces of the walls of buildings are provided with reliable hydro- and thermal insulation. The roof is constructed using a similar technology.
• Integration of the extension into the main structure. Carrying out work using this method is associated with certain difficulties. To connect structures, anchors or pieces of reinforcing steel are installed in the foundation of the house. Then, using welding, a connection is made to the frame of the base of the attached structure. At the end of this event, they begin to pour the monolithic type foundation. Connecting the walls of two structures becomes possible by partially dismantling the frame of the house. To integrate the roof structures, disassembly is carried out rafter system home and connecting it to the extension. Moreover, the fastening occurs both to the rafters and to the beams of the main building. After this, the roof covering is laid so that it represents a single surface.

When building a foundation for an extension, it is necessary to take into account the type of foundation under the house. This is due to the fact that different types of foundations on the same soil give different shrinkage. To prevent similar phenomenon The same base designs should be used.

Construction of an extension

Calculation and purchase of materials

At the design stage of an extension to a wooden house, the purpose of the object, its number of storeys and design features are taken into account. This allows you to make the optimal choice of material and draw up a construction estimate.

The following materials can be used for its construction.

timber

Using timber to build an extension to a wooden house - best option. Moreover, the timber can be of any kind: glued, rounded or planed. Standardized material dimensions greatly simplify installation.

As a rule, timber is produced by specialized enterprises, each product has strictly defined dimensions, and the quality of the wood meets the standards. In the factory, the material goes through everything necessary steps protective treatment that increases the service life of wood. If necessary, then ready product passes heat treatment to give the wood a certain shade. Natural wood is an environmentally friendly material, which has a beneficial effect on the health of people living in the house.

In addition to the described qualities, the versatility of the timber should be noted, since it can be used to create an extension not only to a wooden house.

If the cost of timber exceeds the construction estimate, then you should pay attention to other materials.

The most difficult thing is to connect the extension to the house

Frame extension

A good option from an economic point of view is the construction of a frame structure for the extension. It is characterized by the ability to carry out work on the existing foundation, which significantly reduces construction time.

The technology for constructing an extension involves the construction of a metal frame or wooden structure. To create the surface of the walls, the frame is sheathed on both sides using chipboard or OSB boards. Between them is placed a layer of thermal insulation made of available heat-insulating material. There must be vapor and moisture insulation on top of the insulation.

The frame structure of an extension to a wooden house is easy to install and is available for self-assembly.

Brick

When using brickwork when constructing the walls of an extension to a wooden house, you can get a permanent structure. The material has good thermal insulation properties, so the extension can have both economic and residential purposes.

To maintain integrity architectural style It is recommended to move the brick extension out of sight. However, its location on the rear side of the building is not excluded. Brickwork has a significant mass, so a reliable foundation is built that can withstand the loads from the walls.

The cost of construction in this case increases not only due to the increase in the price of materials and additional costs for constructing the foundation, but also due to the costs of finishing work.

Main stages of construction

Foundation installation

The base for an extension to a wooden house is selected depending on design features structures. If you plan to create a residential building, then construction is mandatory. At the same time, its depth should be the same as that of the main building. Reliable connection two structures occurs due to reinforcement.

The progress of work on the construction of the foundation occurs in the following order:

• carry out marking;
• dig a pit or trench of appropriate depth;
• formwork is installed;
• produce a bundle of reinforcement cage;
• pour .

At this stage, protection from moisture should be performed.

Light extension on a columnar foundation

Wall installation

The construction of the walls of an extension is no different from the technology of constructing a house from timber or other lumber. In this case, the resulting expansion joint must be sealed using polyurethane foam.

When using the same materials to build an extension and a house, the walls are connected using different fasteners. Dowels are made in the timber. Screws and plates are used, as well as staples to fix the walls.

Roof installation

In the case when the height of the extension is less than the height wooden house, the roof is made with a significant slope. This will allow precipitation to be removed without hindrance. In this case, the connection of both roof structures is not necessary.

When constructing a two-story warm extension, it is recommended to connect the roofs of the structures. For this purpose, the roof of the main house is partially dismantled and the ceilings are tied together with metal corners. After that, waterproofing is installed and the roof is laid. A unified drainage system must be organized.

It is better to make the roof from the same material as the main building

How to cut costs?

You can reduce the cost of building an extension to a wooden house if you take into account the following recommendations:

• the cost of timber is lower if purchased in winter;
• independent construction of the foundation will allow you to achieve savings of about 20%;
• use available materials;
• use the frame construction method.

How to create a frame extension to a house, the reliability of the construction of the foundation, walls, floor and roof. Stages of work, tips for insulation. Types of extension.

Over time, the living space gets used to it and you want to expand it; for this case, you will need a frame extension to the house, which will be an excellent solution. So that all the pitfalls do not cause problems, below we describe in detail what the extension is intended for. How to choose the right foundation, features of creating a strip and columnar foundation. What to choose for the floor: wood or concrete, how the walls and frame are erected. How reliable flooring and roofing occurs. What is the proper insulation of floors and walls?

What does it consist of technological feature extensions, what methods exist for installing a frame extension to a wooden floor. Stages of building a frame house with your own hands. How to create a construction project, how to build an additional living room, kitchen or bath, features of installing a veranda.

How to choose a frame extension to a wooden house, fastening to a wooden structure, the importance of finishing. What materials and tools are used, how the site is planned, how to choose flooring material: concrete or wood.

Purpose of the extension

When, for various reasons, there is a need to expand the living space of a private house, the most economical and technologically simple option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with minimal skill in working with carpentry tools. Step-by-step instructions for the construction stages will help you make a useful and beautiful extension that will last for many years.

To ensure that the extension does not subsequently have to be transformed, the design nuances should be considered even at the planning stage.

First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

1. Additional room. Building an additional room is equivalent to building a small house. All structures of a new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise heating such a room will be ineffective due to large heat loss. You should not skimp on waterproofing and insulating the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
2. Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the installation of utilities before you start building the foundation. Places where water mains or sewer pipes through the foundation it is necessary to insulate well. This is easier and cheaper to do during the construction phase.
3. Veranda is a light extension to an open or glazed house. Used for summer holidays. The building is not heated, so the design is extremely simple: the flooring, walls and roof are on supports. Do not forget about harmony; the veranda must be combined with the house in scale, style and materials of construction.

Selecting the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second is planned at the stage of building a house, then a separate foundation will need to be built for the first. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to the different weights of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation built on soil prone to heaving will “lead” and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls; shrinkage is inevitable under the weight of the brickwork.

For construction they use different materials: concrete, brick, stone, piles made of wood, metal or concrete.

It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

• tape;
• slab;
• columnar;
• pile;
• pile-grillage.

In private construction, when constructing a base for a veranda, a columnar or strip structure is most often used. Let's take a closer look step by step instructions arrangement of foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a strip type of base is chosen. It is advisable to make it from concrete in this sequence.

1. Using string and pegs, markings are made along which the trench will be dug.
2. The soil is selected to the depth of the base of the house foundation. Sand is poured onto the bottom and compacted. A layer of crushed stone is laid on top, which is also compacted with a hand tamper.
3. Prepare formwork equal to the height of the future foundation. Waterproofing is laid inside along the perimeter and welded reinforcement is installed on the crushed stone layer.
4. Prepare a concrete solution in a ratio of 1:3:6 (cement, sand, crushed stone).
5. Pour the prepared mixture onto 1/3 of the formwork. After hardening, fill the remaining height. The solution is compacted with a vibrator to remove air bubbles. Or tap the formwork walls with a hammer.
6. The upper part is leveled. Cover with film. While the solution gains strength, the surface is periodically wetted to prevent cracks from occurring.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Ask a question to an expert

Important. Before erecting walls, waterproofing must be applied to the foundation. Use rolled materials or mastic.

Columnar foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to construct a columnar base, which is made of brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or combine these materials. The holes for the pillars are dug to a depth below freezing of the soil. The pitch between the pillars is about 60 cm.

Sequence of work:

• dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured onto the bottom and compacted thoroughly;
• lay a layer of concrete mortar, and after complete setting, begin the construction of brick supports. Use a level to ensure that the masonry is strictly vertical;
• the concrete support is made similarly to the strip type foundation: it is wrapped inner part formwork is waterproofed and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Wet the concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;
• after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pillar, and the top is covered with several layers of roofing material - the material will protect the wooden floor beam from getting wet;
• the remaining voids are filled with backfill: soil mixed with crushed stone is filled in, compacted every 15 cm of the layer.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is installed on a strip foundation. The base on pillars is obviously designed for arranging a wooden floor.

Let's consider both technologies:

1. Concrete. Inside the foundation, soil is selected to a depth of 35 cm. A sand cushion is arranged and compacted well. Then you can fill it with crushed stone, but expanded clay is used to insulate the screed. A 20 cm layer is enough. A reinforcement grid is laid on top. Using a level, beacons are set, along which the cement screed is subsequently poured. Lay tiles or wooden flooring on top.
2. The wooden floor is installed along the floor beams, which are laid on the base on top of the waterproofing. The beam is connected to the foundation using through fasteners, anchors or self-tapping screws. In the corners they are connected with a straight lock and additionally fixed with corners. Next, the logs are installed, insulation is laid and the flooring is laid.

Construction of frame and walls

Wall structures are erected from timber, attached to previously assembled crown beams. The wall elements are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall panel is mounted in a vertical position or each beam is connected to a beam in series.

Step-by-step instruction:

• On the lower beams of the harness, make a cut for vertical posts every 50 cm.
• Mount the racks, securing them with corners and self-tapping screws.
• Assemble the top harness.
• The veranda is connected to the house by attaching a vertical beam to the wall.
• Secure all posts adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
• It is better to immediately sheathe the finished “skeleton” of the veranda with outside plywood, boards or OSB. This will give the structure rigidity.
• After constructing and insulating the roof, install windows and doors.

Ceiling and roofing

The shed type of roofing can be combined with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. Let's consider it.

1. The rafters are installed at one end under the slope of the roof of the house, and at the other they are supported on the wall of the veranda. Fixed with metal corners. The main thing is to accurately select the slope angle.
2. The rafter legs should protrude beyond the wall by at least 30 cm. Such an overhang of the roof will protect the walls of the veranda from precipitation.
3. The issue of roof covering is decided in advance. Usually they choose the material with which the house is covered. Under soft roof Solid material is laid on the rafters: plywood, OSB sheets or frequent sheathing. Slate or metal tiles are laid on the rafters if the logs are installed with small pitches.
4. The structure is covered with waterproofing, which is selected individually to the coating material.
5. Laying the roof begins from the bottom of the rafters.
6. Used for insulation mineral wool, which is laid between the rafters. The ceiling is covered with boards or panels and decorated.

Insulation of walls and floors

Mineral wool is used as insulation material for walls. The mats are easily and quickly laid between the frame bars, as can be seen in the photo. When laying insulation in several layers, the mats are shifted relative to each other to prevent heat loss through the joining seams.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask a question to an expert

The insulation is covered on both sides with steam and wind insulation material, which will protect the material from moisture accumulation, and the top is sheathed with finishing material.

Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, plasterboard and covered with wallpaper or lined with clapboard. For the exterior wall, use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the house.

The wall pie towards the outer wall looks like this:

• internal lining;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation material;
• windproofing;
• external cladding.

Floors on wooden joists are insulated in the same way as walls: mineral wool is laid on the subfloor between the joists, after covering the boards with a waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation and then leveled with plywood. After this, the finished floor covering is installed.

A concrete floor can be insulated in the same way as a wooden floor, using a dry screed, making a concrete screed and installing water or electric heating.

Do-it-yourselfers often overlook the need to comply with safety regulations. Use personal protective equipment and well-functioning, reliable tools, and then you will have only the warmest memories from the construction of the extension.

A do-it-yourself extension to a house is a common way to increase living space. In truth, we have it as a legacy of the times when the state’s attitude to individual housing construction was expressed by the principle “Saving drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.” Back then, in privately built areas, there were shacks, the sight of which would give nightmares to sworn surrealists.

However, the expansion of housing with extensions has always been everywhere and remains relevant today as a means of avoiding unbearable credit bondage for many years. There are ways, but they are beyond the power of a large family nest - construction costs relative to the size of the building grow according to a power law. However, first build a house of minimal size, just enough to live in, and then, as needed, make an extension to the house, and another, and another, quite possible on your own budget. Moreover, a house overgrown with correctly executed extensions can be more comfortable, more beautiful and better integrated into the surrounding environment than the original one, see fig.:

Just keep in mind that the construction of the extension is organizationally and technically more complex than the main building. Why? Because the extension affects it in various ways, see below. In conditions where private housing is fully legalized and insured, the accident rate caused by the extension is unacceptable. That's why the cost of a square turnkey extension will be significantly more expensive than a new building, and an independent developer will face specific problems. This article is written about which ones, from which side to approach their solution, where to look for the optimum and how to build an extension correctly.

Organizational issues

Self-developers, of course, are primarily interested in: is it really possible to legitimize a self-built extension? If the residential building is already a legalized squatter building, then it is unrealistic. Self-construction is legitimized based on the results of the building’s operation. Roughly speaking, is it worth it? And screw him, let him continue standing. But shish with him and shish with him already gives something like “fuck him…”, because... there are no reference initial parameters to determine the future fate of the structure. Self-construction is legalized once and for all, and the negative consequences of the extension may take 10 years or more to affect. That is, the owner, a quarrelsome and quarrelsome person, has a formal reason for counterclaims: yeah, they legitimized it incorrectly! Well, compensate! Which is also completely unrealistic, but you can drink blood and shake your and other people’s nerves to your heart’s content.

Note: for a “complete self-construction” of a house with an extension, the only option for legalization is to delay the legalization of the main building until the extension is ready, and then legalize everything together.

As for old standard housing or built according to an approved project, the possibility of legitimizing an unauthorized extension to it depends on its type and design, see below. There are no extensions that are automatically legalized. Therefore, no matter how it was built an old house, planning to settle down, be prepared to follow the trail. epic:

• Geological surveys at the construction site and inspection of the main structure;
• Obtaining permission from the land owner (if the area under the house is rented);
• Obtaining permission from neighbors for construction;
• Design of an extension, independently or to order by specialists;
• Approval of the project by a licensed construction organization, firefighters, sanitation workers, electricians, and utility workers. Most often combined with paragraphs. 1 and 4 by order from a licensed construction company, it’s cheaper and faster;
• Obtaining a building permit from the local municipality - at an architectural office, at a meeting of the village/township council. It is also possible to combine with paragraphs. 1, 4 and 5. This is called a turnkey project or an anchored project;
• Construction;
• Acceptance of the structure by representatives of the authority that issued the permit;
• Renewal of contracts with utility companies for increased living space;
• Re-registration of housing with increased living space in the cadastre and tax authorities.

Let's hope that the further material in the article will help you understand the proposed projects or even, if you have already built yourself and know how to use construction calculation programs, develop an extension project yourself. The specialists at licensed companies know their stuff: they’ll see that it’s been written correctly, ask a couple of questions, and they’ll give it a go.

Geology

Projects for extensions are developed based on the results of surveys on construction geology and an audit of the existing building, even if the house is standard. On-site surveys are not a cheap undertaking, but the extension will be reliable and will not reduce the reliability of the house if and only if, unlike a new building, the soil underneath is homogeneous and its basic properties are as close as possible to those under the house. To determine whether it is even possible to build an extension in a given place, in the area for the extension, soil samples are taken in advance with a garden drill from the same depth within 1-1.5 m in an envelope - in the corners and in the center. The time for sampling is a really warm spring, when the soil above dries out; in mid-latitudes – early May. There should be no rain for at least 3-4 days before sampling. Before sampling, wells are thoroughly cleaned of soil that has crumbled from above. Each sample is immediately poured into a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid; plastic bags are no good!

First, we evaluate the heaving, subsidence and load-bearing properties of the soil by visual inspection of samples; under the house and the extension they must match to within a class. For example, a house on dry, non-heaving and low-subsidence sandy loam with a bearing capacity less than normal 1.7 kgf/sq. cm. And 2 m from the wall, i.e. under the proposed extension there is also non-heaving, but completely non-sagging cartilage or gravel with a load-bearing capacity that is obviously greater than normal. You can't fit in. Or, let’s say, instead of cartilage, dry silty sand, not heaving, but more subsident and weakly load-bearing; The result is the same.

Note: add to the house with your own hands if the bearing capacity of the soil on the site is less than 1.7 kgf/sq. cm, as well as on moderately, strongly and excessively heaving soils, subsidence and/or excessively watered by unauthorized construction without a project, it is categorically not recommended. IN best case scenario No one will ever legitimize such an extension in an honest manner. At worst, you will irreparably damage your old home.

If no visible differences are found in the samples that impede construction, we evaluate the homogeneity of the basic properties of the soil, including its water content and plasticity, in a comprehensive manner, based on relative humidity. For this:

1. We weigh the enameled steel vessel and write down its weight Vp.
2. Pour part of the sample into the container, immediately weigh it, and record the initial gross weight Ext.
3. Heat the container with the sample over low heat until the soil crumbles into dust, i.e. will not dry completely.
4. We also immediately weigh the container with the sample and record the final gross weight Vk.
5. We calculate the initial and final net weights of the sample Рн = Вн – Вп; Rk = Vk – Vp.
6. We calculate the relative humidity of the sample as H = 1 – (Rk/Rn).

For example, the initial net weight of the sample is 440 g, and the final net weight is 365 g. Its relative humidity will be 1 - (365/440) = 1 - 0.83 = 0.17 or 17%. The H values ​​for all samples must coincide to within 10 percentage points (percentage of percent), if self-construction is planned, or up to 20 percentage points, if the project is developed by specialists and approved as expected. Let's say all samples gave moisture values ​​of 17%, 18.7%, 16%, 16.5% and 19%. Deviation is calculated from least values ​​and its permissible value will be 1.6% for self-construction, and 3.2% for project construction. In this case, self-construction is impossible; geology must be ordered and a project developed.

Technical problems

The first thing you need to know here is There are no prefabricated extensions. The foundation of even the lightest extension must last at least a year before construction continues, and the foundation of a massive residential extension - from 2 years, depending on the results of measurements of its horizontalness, see below. In general, an extension to a private house can affect its condition according to the following. factors:

• Soil mechanics - the old house on the foundation has already settled, but the extension is yet to do so.
• Structural mechanics - an extension adjacent to or attached to a house will transfer to the structure of the existing building both loads during settlement of the extension, as well as operational weight, wind and snow loads. The design of the extension (see below) must be coordinated in terms of construction mechanics not only with the expected loads, but also with the design of the main building.
• Thermal engineering - an extension at any stage of its construction should not disturb the existing thermal balance under the existing building.
• Technological - parts of the extension will have to be attached to the structure of the main building. It is also possible to make openings in its load-bearing walls. Both should not weaken the main structure.

Special mention should be made about heating engineering. A properly built house does not sway from year to year in accordance with seasonal soil movements, even on a shallow foundation. A warm pit is formed under it - an area where the ground temperature does not fall below zero. The blind area around the house expands the warm pit to the sides, which is useful in all cases and makes it much easier to connect the extension to the house. The extension, in turn, so that the house does not lose stability, must smoothly and gradually, without hesitation back and forth, pull the “tongue” of the warm pit under itself. This trace is achieved. way:

1. The foundation of the extension is laid in the spring with the arrival of real warmth.
2. If the foundation of the extension is columnar or piled (see below), then immediately after laying it, a base is built around the perimeter of the extension; maybe temporary, from slate fragments, etc.
3. It is also very, very advisable to immediately make a blind area on a sand and gravel bed around the perimeter of the extension.
4. The foundation is filled with expanded clay flush with the base.
5. A temporary shelter from precipitation with gentle slopes, for example, is built over a foundation filled with insulation. made of film on poles.
6. Construction continues no earlier than a year after the foundation is laid.

Note: the indicated difficulties in geology and design of the extension do not apply to country houses, because They are legally uninhabited. The rule still applies here: the developer’s problems are the developer’s problems. However, if dacha buildings are subject to real estate taxes, they will have to be converted into residential ones. The consequence is that if you are planning to move from the city to the countryside forever, now is the time to fully equip the country house for housing, incl. and outbuildings. Then the authorities will not go anywhere, they will have to legitimize everything that is set up as is, as long as it stands.

About materials

One of the factors that excludes the legalization of any unauthorized construction is the non-compliance of the materials used with the requirements of SNiP. In safety rules in any industry, the principle of the presumption of innocence does not apply, and it is impossible to prove later that you are not a camel, and that the camel is not you. Therefore, take materials for the extension from certified sellers and, in addition to the sales receipt, ask for a copy of the manufacturer’s certificate for the material. An exception is used red brick, if it has been inspected and certified for use in the material statement for the project by a specialist from the design organization.

Types of extensions

Options for making extensions to a house are shown in Fig.: non-residential (unheated and not insulated) open, non-residential closed, residential light and residential massive. Only electricity can be supplied to non-residential extensions from communications through a separate circuit breaker and RCD (residual current device). The light residential extension is also supplied with only electricity, but this can be done from the general house network. Heating – local stove or electric, for example, heated floor; in this case, you need a separate automatic circuit breaker and an RCD for heating. Any communications are connected to the massive residential extension without additional restrictions.

Connection with home

Next important factor classification of extensions - the degree of their connection with the main structure. Based on connectivity, extensions are divided into:

• Remote - spaced from the house at a distance of at least 3 depths deeper than the entire laid foundation, incl. pile If, for example, the house is on a strip buried 1.6 m deep, and the bathhouse nearby is on piles driven 2.2 m deep, then it should be at least 6.6 m away from the house.
• Adjacent - not meeting the criterion of remoteness, but not having a complete mechanical connection with the house, i.e. The foundation of the extension is separate, there are walls on it on all sides, incl. and facing the house. Most often, in order to save land, materials and work, they are built adjacent to the house and under a common roof with it. Self-construction with subsequent legalization is possible if the foundation of the extension is chosen and laid correctly, see above and below. All types of extensions, except massive residential ones, can be built adjacent to them.
• Connected - having at least one common load-bearing wall and/or common branch/section of the foundation tape with the house. A massive warm extension to the house is carried out only in connection with the main building. The legalization of self-construction is unlikely; in fact, it is a question of your relationship with local authorities and their attitude towards you.

Residential extensions to houses are most often built adjacent, and missing communications are installed after acceptance - who will check if the house is standing and people live in it? The tax office and utility workers will still count theirs for the living space. The strip foundation of the adjacent extension is made with a deformation gap of 6-12 mm between it and the foundation of the house, filled with roofing felt, fiberglass and other insulators, but in this case this is not optimal. A gap of 30 mm between the adjacent walls of the house and the extension is caulked with pre-compressed sealing tape (PSUL) and covered with decorative overlays along the outside contour. It seems to be cheap and cheerful, especially if the extension is structurally lightweight (see below), but there are no eternal sealants. In conditions middle zone RF after 10-12 years, dampness begins to accumulate in the gap between the adjacent walls, and it becomes the source of destruction of the entire house. Therefore, builders specializing in extensions give a 5-year guarantee for adjacent ones, as they say, right away. Please keep this in mind if you order a turnkey extension.

Note: PSUL must be used immediately, because once unpacked, it begins to swell irreversibly.

About remote extensions

A remote extension completely eliminates the specific organizational and technical difficulties of the extension, because According to all laws and rules, it is a separate building. The foundation of a remote extension can be anything, incl. non-recessed insulated, for example. , and the structure on it can be prefabricated of any type. The remote extension is connected to the house by a covered insulated gallery on columnar base or hanging on beams. Both are not considered a mechanical connection to the house.

A remote extension is especially beneficial if you need to add a kitchen. Increased heat loss from the premises in this case is insignificant, but the living rooms are reliably insulated from kitchen fumes and high humidity. And most importantly, in private housing with a kitchen they often block the furnace/boiler room or simply install/hang a heating boiler in the kitchen. Its removal from residential premises greatly reduces possible dangers from autonomous heating; risk of burning during combustion solid fuel is practically reduced to nothing. In addition, it facilitates the location of residential buildings and local sewerage structures on the site in accordance with sanitary standards.

Note: in the West and in countries gravitating towards it, many are now keen on remote extensions with panoramic glazing, even if there is plenty of space in the old house, see fig.:

By default, a toilet, bathroom, and a married bedroom are transferred to such an aquarium; sometimes even a children's room. Hanging curtains is considered a disregard for Euro-liberal values ​​and a tendency towards totalitarianism, extremism, terrorism, separatism, etc. In psychiatry, the way of thinking that gives rise to this tendency is called exhibitionism and is a symptom lush bouquet various mental disorders.

Foundations

The influence of the extension on the main structure is most affected through the foundation, therefore, its selection and installation in the ground should be given Special attention. For adjacent extensions or wood or foam blocks, the optimal choice is or. Adjacent extensions are not built of brick or monolithic. Both options will avoid direct contact of the base of the extension with the foundation of the house and will greatly reduce the likelihood of moisture accumulation in the gap between the walls. The foundation grillage is made of timber from 200x200 for wooden buildings or welded steel from an I-beam or channel with an upper flange not narrower than the thickness of the wall.

A columnar foundation for an extension is suitable on non-heaving or slightly heaving, non-subsidence and not overly watered normally bearing soils. On all other soils, you need to choose a foundation based on screw piles, and God forbid you think about driven, pressed-in and wash-out piles - in this case, a violation of the stability of the main structure is guaranteed! Standard installation spacing of pillars/piles is 1.2-1.7 m; The foundation design is also standard.

Under the "capital"

In most cases, a massive residential extension requires a strip foundation of normal depth (at least 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth), securely connected to the base of the building. And again, God forbid you have to match the foundations as shown on the left in the figure! This is only permissible on non-freezing, dense, non-subsidence soils!

In the conditions of the Russian Federation, the pairing of the foundations of the house and the extension must be done with a tooth and anchor ties (in the center in the figure); The capacity of the anti-heave cushion under the foundation of the extension is 15 cm of gravel and 15 cm of sand. The trench for the foundation needs a trapezoidal profile with anti-heaving backing with a sand-gravel mixture, as for brick foundation extensions of a half-timbered structure (see below). The tooth is reinforced in 2 levels with steel reinforcement 14-16 mm.

The anchors connecting the foundations are made from the same reinforcement. The installation pitch is 30-40 cm horizontally and vertically. The placement of anchors in both foundations is 25-30 cm. In the old foundation, holes are drilled for the anchors, into which the anchors are walled up. The anchors are connected to the reinforcement frame of the foundation of the extension by tying with wire, in no case by welding! The foundation must be poured in such a way that before the outside temperature drops to +15 degrees and below, it gains at least 75% strength.

The foundation of the extension with the tooth is maintained until construction continues for 2 years. In the first year, immediately after the tape gains strength, its deviation from horizontality is measured in mm/m. After a year, the measurements are repeated. The foundation is stable - we finally level it to the horizon and build further. No, we wait another year. It hasn’t “settled down” in 4 years - alas, there was a mistake with the geology, the soil is too fluid. It is urgent to take measures to strengthen it before the old house collapses.

On non-heaving, well-bearing soils, it is permissible to build an adjacent or massive residential extension made of foam/gas blocks on a shallow strip foundation (MSLF) or on a non-buried strip with the initial excess of the extension foundation. To calculate the required excess of the new tape, you need to know the coefficients of soil subsidence at the construction site, the available sand and gravel of the foundation cushion under the weight of the tape. General reference books are not helpful in this case, because... subsidence coefficients for materials from different quarries may differ by a value too large for the foundation to be built on.

The small strip for the extension is first poured with a gap between it and the old foundation. At the ends of the tape reinforcement and anchors in the old foundation, elastic loops are bent (on the right in the figure) and welded. A year later, it is checked whether the foundation has stabilized (see above). If yes, the initial gap is filled, and after gaining strength with a concrete plug, you can build further.

Designs and materials

Here you need to know, firstly, that it is possible to build extensions from SIP only on non-subsidence, non-heaving soils of high bearing capacity. A SIP structure is a very rigid box. Settled faster than the old house, it will inevitably tear itself away from it.

Secondly, it is possible to make extensions from foam/gas blocks, but you will have to wait a year or two with the finishing, external and internal. This rule does not have a reverse effect: it is impossible to mechanically attach any residential extensions to foam concrete houses; You can only add adjacent ones. The fact is that the foam/aerated concrete in the extension will give many small, non-through cracks as it settles. They are not dangerous and will not reduce the strength of the structure, but they will have to be sealed before finishing. To prevent the foam/gas block structure from becoming saturated with moisture during curing, the extension box will need to be wrapped in film.

Third, in our time, brick is not a suitable material for an extension; Not suitable for self-building at all. A heavy, massive brick extension will certainly require strengthening the structure of the main house, unless it is an old merchant house with meter-long walls. In RuNet there are calculators for calculations brick extensions; an example is given in Fig. As you can see, in addition to strengthening the wall, which is already difficult, expensive and labor-intensive, we also need a load-bearing partition in a certain place so that the settling extension does not tear the house in half. And what if the partition is in the bedroom, or, worse, the kitchen or toilet?

Finally, the main structural material of the extension should not be stronger than that of the old house. Recommendations to build from the same material as the house are incorrect. If something goes wrong and the extension shrinks more than is permissible, it is better to disconnect it and let it be destroyed than to risk the main housing.

To the dacha

For the reasons stated above, an extension to a country house can be made as light as possible, the so-called. cantilever-support. A diagram of a light extension of this type is shown in Fig. Its connection with the roof (see below) is absent, and the base is located far from the house, and there is nothing to be afraid of its influence on the foundation. At the same time, the supports take a significant part of the load from the consoles, so this extension can even be attached to the wall of a frame house (any others are unacceptable) through backing boards from 150x40. The main thing is that the attachment points fall on the vertical ribs of the frame. If the location of the frame elements is known, then it is possible and even better to fasten through the load-bearing (working) sheathing; It is enough to remove the exterior finishing and insulation. Material of support pillars – timber from 150x50; the rest is 150x40 board. The permissible extension of the roof consoles is 2.5 m for a frame house, 3.5 m for a timber house and 4.5 m for a brick house.

A cantilever-supported extension to a house can be the basis for a garage, terrace (veranda without a floor), greenhouse, etc. With a cantilever-support, you can attach a veranda and even a “conditional living” (insulated) room. In this case, the floor is made completely floating on a columnar base, i.e. the frame made of timber on which the logs rest is not connected either to the house or to the extension; a gap along the contour of 20-30 mm is covered with a plinth. Thus, 3 independent bases are obtained: the foundation of the house, a “chessboard” of columns for the floor, and pillars (or tape) under the console supports.

Half-timbered

Many people make light extensions to houses with frames due to the elasticity of this structure and its negligible effect on the main structure. However, if the extension affects the house, then it also affects it. The elastic limit of frame structures with working cladding is not unlimited and drops sharply with increasing removal of the load-bearing elements of the frame extension. While it is possible to attach a porch to a house without any problems, the probability of destruction due to settlement of an extension more than 3 m wide is high.

The best option for a wooden extension to any house would be a half-timbered one. The half-timbered technology was originally an extension technology: it was born in medieval cities, constrained by defensive walls. There, each house was an extension to the neighboring ones. The difference between half-timbered technology and frame technology is that there is no working cladding; all the loads are taken by the timber frame. The cladding, external and internal, can be of any kind.

An extension to a half-timbered wooden house made of timber from 200x200 on a strip foundation with a tooth (top left in the figure) practically does not additionally load the main structure. Its complete connection with the house, cladding and final finishing are carried out a year or two after the construction of the frame using wood screws with a diameter of 8-12 mm in increments of 450-600 mm. Sealing along the mating contour - PSUL. A half-timbered extension to a stone house can be 2-storey without jibs under panoramic glazing, top right. Fastening to the main structure - M8-M10 bolts in collet anchors with a pitch of 4 rows of masonry; placing anchors in the wall – 300 mm. The seal is the same.

Half-timbered technology is especially good if you need to add a bathroom or bathhouse to your house: many budget developers initially make do with a miniature combined bathroom or corner shower in the kitchen. Well, if your soul is yearning to soak in a bath or steam to your heart’s content, then timber impregnated with a water repellent in addition to biocide and fire retardant is on sale. A simple unimpregnated timber can be made moisture resistant by impregnating it with mining or, twice, with a water-polymer emulsion. In this case, sheathing and insulation are made from any suitable materials, without worrying about its structural strength.

An example of the design of a half-timbered frame for an extension to a house is given at the bottom left in Fig. There in the center and on the right are the structures of the key components of the 2-story half-timbered structure. An unpleasant feature of the half-timbered technology for fans of “quick construction” is that it is impossible to connect frame elements with steel fasteners, as in a frame house with working cladding. At the crossroads, the beams cut into half the tree, and at the ends they are connected into a spike, a paw or a swallow's tail. Each connection is secured with a dowel - tightly driven into it in advance. drilled hole through round pin made of solid fine-grained wood with a diameter of approx. 30 mm.

Foundations for half-timbered buildings

Half-timbered buildings also require a special foundation: columnar and pile structures accept loads too unevenly for half-timbered structures, and the concrete strip is too rigid for it. The foundation for a half-timbered extension is laid with brick or rubble (see figure on the right). The latter is better: well-annealed red brick in moist, acidic or alkaline soil begins to deteriorate within 40-50 years, although in neutral, not over-moistened soil it lasts for centuries; dry-molded silicate or face bricks are generally unsuitable for underground structures. Best before date rubble foundation from granite, diorite, gabbro and other dense heavy rocks of stone is practically unlimited.

Walled into the foundation for the half-timbered structure anchor bolts M12-M16 for fastening a grillage made of timber from 200x200. The pitch of foundation anchors is 400-600 mm. Waterproofing the grillage - 2-4 layers of roofing material or glass rubite. The lower frame of the actual half-timbered frame is attached to the grillage with dowels (or wood screws). After its installation, the frame is assembled on the wall of the house, and then the remaining elements are mounted. Thus, it is possible to routinely repair a half-timbered frame on an excessively sagging foundation by knocking out wedges, etc. This is a unique opportunity of the half-timbered technology, although it is still necessary to maintain the foundation for a year before continuing construction.

Half-timbered buildings and shields

The half-timbered technology is labor-intensive and requires a lot of expensive material. If a one-story extension to a house made of timber is proposed, incl. warm residential, then it is possible to get by with simplified frame-panel technology, which was born at the same time. In this case, the timber frame is built from upper and lower frames with corner posts; the spans are filled with shields on a plank frame, which are attached to the main frame with wood screws, and fastened together with steel plates from 80x40x4.

The design of the shield frame of a combined frame extension made of boards from 120x40 is shown in Fig. on right. The height of the sections can be increased to 900-100 mm in accordance with the height of the ceiling; if it is higher than 3 m, the number of sections increases. Window and door sections are made without miters; they should not be adjacent to each other and should not be close to the corners, i.e. on both sides of the frame with the opening there should be frames with jibs. If the internal cladding is sheet metal sufficiently strong, rigid and elastic (plywood from 16 mm, OSB), then internal jibs (shown by filling in the figure) can be dispensed with.

Roof connection

The own weight and climatic loads on the roof tend to flatten it and distribute it to the sides, for which purpose transverse connections are provided in the roof trusses - crossbars. The asymmetry of vertical loads caused by the presence of an extension on the side disrupts the entire operation of the roof and can lead to its failure. The common scheme in RuNet for connecting the roofs of a house and an extension (top left in the figure) not only requires excess material, but also does not eliminate the asymmetry of the load on the old roof. Moreover, excess wind loads are transferred to the most vulnerable part of the existing roof - its ridge unit. It is also unacceptable to distort the old rafter structure (above right) for the sake of interfacing with the extension, even if the house has a Siberian attic that strengthens the roof.

The correct design for connecting the roofs of the house and the side extension is shown at the bottom left in Fig. The highlight here is the beveled snow supports: from additional load of any kind, they seem to push the wings of the old roof inward, preventing them from spreading. Further, thanks to the rigidity of the resulting force triangles (filled in red), a significant part of the additional loads is transferred to the mauerlat (rafter) of the extension, which can be calculated in advance for them, and the excess loads on the mauerlat of the old roof do not exceed the permissible value.

Note: if the extension is made of foam/aerated concrete, which does not hold the mortgages well, then the mauerlat of the extension must be made according to all the rules for building houses made of foam concrete, and the anchors of the mauerlat must be laid in the wall for 3-4 rows of masonry.

About roofing

When constructing a side extension to the house, the old roof deck needs to be dismantled (bottom right in the figure above) and the roof re-roofed. Match the roofs of the house and the extension as shown in Fig. right, you can't. The golden rule of roofing work: the overlying decking elements must overlap the underlying ones to prevent water from flowing in. And do it as shown there - no matter how wise you are with the seal, valleys, canopies, gutters, the roof will leak.

No roofing work

You can greatly simplify complex and important roofing work or get rid of it altogether if you build an extension from the gable (on the left in the figure). A front extension often better matches the layout and architecture of the house, and on a narrow plot this is often the only option.

However, when building an extension from the front, another problem arises: access to it, for which you will have to make an opening in the load-bearing wall. IN frame houses This is completely unacceptable. For a timber frame, a calculation is needed: will the house move apart? In any case, at least 3-4 lower crowns must be left intact in the wall, counting from the grillage; perhaps the passage to the annex will be in the threshold. In a frame-panel wall, you can choose to fill any of the panels without touching the frame frame, as long as there are panels with jibs on both sides. A diagram of a doorway in a solid brick wall is shown on the right in Fig. It is generally carried out as follows. order:

1. On both sides of the wall, grooves are cut for the steel reinforcement box;
2. the embedded parts of the front and rear parts of the box are installed in place and welded into frames;
3. the opening is selected gradually and alternately on both sides of the wall, carefully, without strong beating or pressure;
4. Anchor rods under transverse ties are walled into the ends of the opening;
5. The ties are welded to the anchors and frames of the boxes.

Since doorways in stone load-bearing walls are a responsible matter, watch another video on how to make an opening in a brick wall:

Video: opening in a brick wall to access the extension

and in no way possible:

Last note: In load-bearing walls made of foam/aerated concrete, it is impossible to make an opening for passage into the attached residential extension in addition to the original design ones. If there is no significant additional load on the wall (exit to the outside, into a non-residential or residential adjacent extension), upper horizontal mortgages 1.75-1.9 m long are needed. Alas.