The main engine starting system is battery. It is on the correctly chosen parameters and quality of the battery that the ease and reliability of the motor starting process depend. Incorrectly selected batteryor a discharged battery can make it difficult for the engine to start. This causes a breakdown. starter and generator.
In order to choose the right car battery, you need to navigate the basic parameters battery :
Battery voltage;
Capacity (A / h);
Polarity;
Type of arrangement of terminals;
Dimensions;
Ways to mount the battery in the engine compartment or luggage compartment. Of course, the most important of these is stress. Most car batteries have a voltage of 12 V.
The second criterion for battery selection is electric capacitymeasured in ampere-hours (A / h).
Capacity battery shows the amount of electricity given to them per unit of time.
As it might seem at first glance, a car battery with a capacity of 55 Amp * hour at a discharge current of 55 A will work exactly 1 hour. Immediately, we note that the car battery is considered to be completely discharged if the voltage on it becomes equal to 10.8 V (1.8 V / e.).
The number indicated on rechargeable batteries is the capacitance given at +25 ° С, at a twenty-hour discharge current.
But what is to choose the charging capacity? You can especially not hesitate to choose recommended by the manufacturer of your car, but it can be different from it. We advise you not to choose a smaller capacity. Firstly, it will not be enough either to start the engine or for normal operation of the car. Secondly, surprisingly, the battery will be recharged after replenishing the lost capacity at the start of the engine (the generator has remained the same power).
It is better to choose a larger capacity, but not to get involved. It is impossible to put the capacity exceeding the recommended one, since it will be chronically undercharged.
The power of consumers from the installed rechargeable battery with increased capacity has not increased and also will not present an extra bill. There will be an “undercharging” in situations when too many start attempts have been made, or there is not enough generator power. In the latter case, the generator voltage regulation system can no longer increase it with increasing load and the voltage is limited. The greater the load, the greater the voltage drop across the generator. And when it is compared with the voltage on the battery, then about any charge of the last speech can not go. On the contrary, the battery begins to "help" the generator in the power supply of consumers. The lower the voltage on the generator, the more this assistance and the faster the car battery is discharged.
But again - it is worth noting, this is due to the factory design of electricians and directly with the power of the generator. On Russian cars there is a clear shortage of generator power.
Thus, you can safely choose a battery with a capacity higher by one notch. For example, instead of 55 A * h set 60-62 A * h. In this case, you will get a more confident start. Yes, but there is a nuance. If the car battery is discharged to more than half of its capacity, it will not be able to charge it on the car (generator). But one should not be a skeptic, it even concerns car batteries at regular capacity.
The most important working condition battery is the air temperature. The colder it is, the denser the electrolyte becomes inside the battery. The electrolyte thickens and penetrates poorly between the pores of the plates. As a result, the reaction rate decreases dramatically and decreases the time during which the battery will be able to produce the current needed to start the engine.
A lot of effort is required to start the engine in cold weather, when the oil thickens and the mixture in the cylinders deteriorates. It is the first battery that takes upon itself the entire burden of starting the motor. To make the battery easier to turn the starter, wake the battery up before starting. To do this, blink the main beam or turn on the emergency gang for a short period of time. At low temperatures, the battery also takes a worse charge.
An important point in battery life is road conditions. If the car moves frequently on bad roads, it can lead to a short circuit. As a result of shaking, the active masses will crumble out of the plates, a loss of capacity will occur. It is worth paying attention to the purchase of a battery, in which the plates of one polarity are wrapped in a separator-envelope. Ask the sales assistant for what kind of design has a particular battery, or immediately warn that the battery will be used in bad road conditions.
Battery care is the systematic cleaning of the surface of its case from dust and moisture. Checking the reliability of the battery installation, visual monitoring of the condition of the case and checking for the absence of cracks and electrolyte stains should also be regular. Contacts of terminals and high-voltage wires should be lubricated with graphite grease or use a special aerosol for battery terminals: this will eliminate contact oxidation, which makes it difficult for current to penetrate.
Everything batteries are divided into serviced, low maintenance and sealed unattended.
Serviced Batteries are rare, but still can be found on sale, in the recent past they accounted for the majority of batteries sold. Now they are produced by only a few factories in Russia. They are easily recognizable by the case of ebonite, filled with black mastic on top. In this battery it is possible to replace the blocks of several cans, in the case of their short circuit. As a rule, the majority of motorists do not do this. In addition, the ebonite case of such a battery is less durable and more expensive to manufacture than plastic, and cracks on impact. The mastic also has a significant disadvantage - it loses its insulating qualities due to dirt and temperature changes, and the battery self-discharges rather quickly.
WITH maintenance free battery it is impossible to do anything with it: the cover of such a battery has no filling plugs and openings. These batteries are designed for specific operating conditions in mild climates and with appropriate service. They are not cheap and not suitable for use on all vehicles.
The bulk of all produced in the world car batteries are low maintenance. They have no hard operating restrictions and are widely represented on the market. These are relatively inexpensive and simple, and expensive high-tech high-quality batteries.
For the car to work properly, you should choose the right battery. Ampere load for the battery is extremely important, since the main purpose of the battery is to start the engine on a cold one. Knowing how to choose a battery by generator, you can avoid many mistakes.
Battery selection
It is noteworthy that different cars require different loads. Some cars are equipped with a 4-cylinder engine, others with 6, 8, etc. Different may be the number of pistons, the amplitude of rotation of the starter, temperature and much more. It turns out that the choice of the battery is directly dependent on technical characteristics a specific car.
First of all, experts recommend determining the capacity of the battery, making a choice based on the technical data. As a rule, 55 or 60-capacitor batteries are suitable for domestic VAZ. The same capacity fits most petrol versions of cars.
As for the diesel versions, they require a battery with a larger capacity, since the starting voltage for starting a cold diesel engine should be much greater. Batteries for 75 or 80 A * h in this case, what you need.
Besides the fact that the choice of the battery depends on the type of fuel, it also depends on the polarity option and much more. In more detail about differences of rechargeable batteries you can read below in the article (in the paragraph about differences between battery models).
Battery selection by generator
The most important point to pay attention to. Power generating device directly affects the choice of battery. Data must be searched for the technical documentation of the vehicle
So, if the owner of the vehicle is not the first owner of the car, then it would be better to make sure of the generator model itself, to clarify its power data.
The capacity of the battery must be matched to the power of the generator so that not only the charging current is covered, but also that all consumers of electricity in the car are powered. In other words, the power of the generator should cover the power of all consumers combined, and MZT (maximum charge voltage).
An example will be easier to explain this point. Imagine a car VAZ, which is equipped with a generating device at 80A. For its normal operation will require a load not exceeding 76A. Five percent is removed to prevent overloading appliances. About twenty percent of the power consumed by devices electrical circuit. Accordingly, a 60A * h battery is suitable for normal operation.
In general, standard generating devices that put on serial type products are able to provide power supply all consumers chain plus a small margin. The latter is extremely important, as it allows one to go dry in unforeseen, so to speak emergency situations.
As a rule, it is theoretically possible to put high capacity batteries. For example, instead of 55-ah batteries, install 72-ah or 75-ah. And everything will be fine, but only with one indispensable condition: the wiring of the car’s circuit must be in perfect condition, no big losses on the contacts, etc. On cars with high or medium mileage, a priori weak zones, oxidation, etc. appear. Or the most unforeseen moment, when in winter at night with heavy snowfall you have to leave. What happens in this case can be seen on the diagram:
| Consumers | W | Total |
|---|---|---|
| dimensions and lighting of rooms, appliances and cabin | 6x5w + 5x2w | 40W |
| headlights + fog back and front | 2x65w + 2x45w + 2x21w | 250W |
| fan heater at maximum | 200W | |
| radiator fan briefly (2-3 minutes) | 250 w | |
| rear window heating | 150W | |
| fuel pump and engine management system | 70-100 volts | |
| radio cassette player in medium volume mode | 100 volts |
In total, more than 1000 volts are obtained, which, in accordance with amperes, is 70-100 A. This means that the generating device will work in such a case for wear, especially when the radiator fan is operating. And if you add on the work of the amplifier, which many music lovers install and the consumption of halogen houses of 100 watts, it is time to think about an additional generating device.
Of course, you can limit consumption, monitor it regularly, do not turn on the rear optics unless absolutely necessary, and use the heater only for 2 or 3 speeds, but these are already nuances.
Attention. For beginners, it is useful for motorists to introduce a digital voltmeter, which will be connected to the battery terminals. Thus, it will be possible to control the process of current consumption. If the current starts to decrease, then some devices will need to be turned off manually.
Do not forget that the battery also needs voltage. The battery also consumes current, and the more it gives when starting the motor, the more volts it will need for recharging. And the more capacious the battery, the greater her appetite.
If you are an ardent music lover, then in your case there is a reason to change the standard generating device with parameters of 80 amperes and below. This includes VAZ models of cars, which implies just such a weak generator. It is recommended to put a more powerful, 100, 120 or 150 ampere unit. However, in this case, we must remember that a large ampere effect on the engine is negative. You have to pay for comfort.
It is reasonable to use these calculations and the owners of foreign cars. It is recommended to arm yourself with measuring tongs and calculate how much voltage is supplied from the generating device to the battery, and how much it leaves from it via another cable.
Energy balance is extremely important for a car. Today, only individual owners of cars fully understand the whole picture of this balance, they are able to competently analyze and draw conclusions.
From all that has been written above, we can draw such a conclusion. The more the generator produces current, the stronger the battery should be, but this will put a greater load on the car engine.
What happens if the battery to the generator is chosen incorrectly or vice versa? Will the battery boil or not?
A gene with low power at higher than necessary loads will gradually destroy the wiring and its own parts. High power consumers - it is always a great resistance of the generator inductor, the increased voltage load, etc.
The normal current in the circuit will be as long as the current consumption does not exceed the output of the generating device. As soon as there is an excess, there is a drawdown of the generator and battery.
Boil the battery can definitely when the voltage is over, as it is powered directly from the generator. An overall picture, which involves the wrong choice of a gene-battery tandem, or damage to the voltage regulator in a generating device, can cause an excess. It looks like an ugly “pill” (regulator) that performs important functions.
You should know that the cause of damage to the battery in most cases becomes the generator. In addition to providing automotive consumers with voltage, the generating device must also recharge the battery. If more current flows to the battery, then it fails.
Differences of battery models
Batteries that can be bought in stores today are also different. All of them differ in three main characteristics. Consider them.
Polarity, which can be direct and inverse. What does it mean? The battery has two terminals, output. One is responsible for the plus, the other - for the minus. If the positive terminal is located to your left when you are facing the front of the car, then this is a battery with direct polarity. If on the contrary, then the reverse. Batteries with a standard type of attachment are universal, and they can also be put upside down. But with a rigid fixation of the battery in special slots, this possibility is a priori absent.
The capacity of the battery is prescribed in the technical documentation, often glued to the machine. It is listed on a special tag under the hood, or data about it is placed in the manual.
The capacity will determine how the car starts, whether the consumers are reliably protected from overheating and large amounts of current. The battery is just the capacity is selected to the generating device.
Attention. In order to exclude the generator and other voltage consumers from being out of operation ahead of time, one should select a capacitance smaller than the one for which the circuit elements are designed. But the capacity should not be less than necessary, as this will shorten its service life due to regular recharging.
Battery dimensions are an equally important selection criterion. Whether the dimensions are chosen correctly depends directly on the place of installation. As a rule, there is not enough space under the hood for “cars”, a certain limited amount of space is provided for a battery.
It is customary to distinguish batteries by the type of service, the type of electrolyte and charge.
Battery serviced
Considered the most budgetable battery serviced. Its production has been adjusted for many years. In case of any malfunction, it is possible to replace one of the battery elements, for example, a bank.
These batteries are cheap because of their short life. Over the two years of operation, such models lose half of their capacity. Such batteries have to be regularly monitored so that the electrolyte does not boil off, its quantity does not decrease, and periodically change the composition of winter / summer.
Battery unattended
This is a modern type of battery that does not require extra care and attention from the motorist. They are purchased at the rate of 6 years, and in some cases even more. They do not even need to recharge, unless necessary.
However, such battery models have a significant drawback. It concerns their cost, which is two times higher than the price of other types of batteries.
Rarely served
The most versatile battery option. They are also called intermediate, as they imply a lighter maintenance option. They only require to monitor the level and density of the electrolyte.
The downside of such batteries is the need to maintain the level of composition and a relatively short lifetime - 3 years.
Flooded models
They are standard batteries that are charged in the factory. Use them immediately. These models mainly include serviced batteries.
Such variants of the battery have many disadvantages, including increased emission of harmful gases when charging, rapid boiling of the electrolyte from the heat, the danger of damage to the surface, damage when tilting.
Dry charge
The “dry charge” type batteries are models that are not filled with electrolyte from the factory. They are simply prepared for further operation by adding plates to the battery case. They are processed and dried as needed.
To start using dry-charge batteries, you must fill the electrolyte to start. This option has the advantage expressed in long-term storage. 5 years or more such batteries can be used.
Gel batteries
As a rule, this option is used on maintenance-free batteries. Special and very viscous gel is filled inside the container. Over time, the composition hardens, but does not lose its properties.
The production of gel batteries before was incorrectly adjusted, which led to a rise in the cost of production. Today, the process is streamlined, models have become increasingly popular. In particular, their cost has decreased, which, together with high reliability and unpretentiousness, makes them almost the best today.
A couple of ways to determine battery failure
First of all, you need to properly examine the battery for damage to physical properties. In other words, if body defects are detected, then the electrolyte is uniquely leaking from the tank.
If the external inspection did not give anything, you can verify that the battery is working by connecting a measuring device to the terminals. With it, readings are taken, which are compared with the norm. In case of inconsistency of measurements, appropriate conclusions are made. For example, a less than necessary voltage indicates a leakage of electrolyte.
Standard battery voltage should be within 12.7 volts. With reduced readings, conclusions are drawn regarding the density of the electrolyte. Normal density of 1.25 g per 1 cubic centimeter. To check the density, a hydrometer is used.
In addition to such a test, the diagnostics of the operating voltage with the help of an HB (load fork) is also applied. HB consists of a set of load resistances.
NV measured current on the battery. Simulation of the connection of the automotive BS. Thus, it is determined how much the voltage drops compared with the standard voltage and measurement with a multimeter. If there is a short circuit in the battery, then it is quite possible that the measuring device will not detect it, the voltage will be shown normally. However, the starting and working voltage in this case will not be normally provided by the battery. HB provides an opportunity to determine this factor.
If in the above cases, the battery requires a unique replacement, then you can do with charging and another type of service. We are talking about the normal density of the composition of the battery with a simultaneous low voltage. Such a battery does not need to change, just enough to recharge it.
Interpretation of battery parameters
| Parameter | Value | Additions |
|---|---|---|
| Rated voltage | The operating voltage of the battery, which is 12 volts for car batteries | |
| Nominal capacity | Indicates the battery capacity when discharging SMALL (1/20 capacity) current to a certain voltage, often 10.5-10.8 Volts! Measured in amperes / hours. | The parameter of the nominal capacity means that when loaded, for example, with one light bulb, it will shine the longer, the greater the battery capacity! That is, for example, if 60 A / h battery lasts a day, then 180 A / h two. |
| Starter or inrush current | Indicates the ability of the battery to give a strong current. Written in amperes. | This is almost the most important parameter of the battery, since it depends on it whether your car starts in the winter or not. In addition, he is talking about whether your battery can turn the engine and with what force! So the bigger it is, especially for a diesel engine! |
Interpretation of generator parameters
| Options | Value | Additions |
|---|---|---|
| Rated voltage | The voltage that the generator produces during operation | Car generators (cars) give a voltage of 14 volts, which is indicated on them. This is done to compensate for the discharge of the battery, as if it is charged with 12 volts, it will not gain full capacity. |
| Rated current | Maximum working current of return of the generator | In other words, this is the current of all generator consumers (battery, lights, fans, etc., etc.). The more it is, the better, in modern cars 120 A generators are mainly used. |
It is important to know that for a generator with a certain number of amps it is not at all necessary to select a battery with the number a * h more. To charge the battery, no matter how discharged, 15 amps are enough. A priori, the current will decrease as the battery charges. And remember: a well-chosen battery will last for a long time and seamlessly.
What questions does the owner of the car have during its operation on the operation of the generator? The most diverse. Let's try to summarize them., in fact .
1. What is the best way to choose a generator for power (current) for a specific on-board equipment (powerful audio installation, computer system, lighting engineering)?
2. What is the relationship between battery capacity and the required current output of the generator?
3. How to check the constituent elements of the generator and identify the faulty element ? 4. How to analyze the energy balance on the car ?And so in order:
Standard generators installed on serial products
, provide normal power supply onboard network with a small margin. In order to facilitate the start-up of the engine in the winter, many are trying to put the battery of maximum capacity, which can be installed in the place provided for cars. Usually real instead of the battery 55 Ah, Put 72 or 75 Ah battery. And for new batteries and up to 80 ah. What do we get? It all depends on the state of the electrical wiring: if it is in good condition, the losses on the contacts are minimal, the generator produces the current put to it, and without drawdown stress under load, then everything will be fine. But if the machine is aged, there are weakened connectors, oxidized mass contacts, instead of an improvement, only deterioration can be obtained.for example: in winter, at nightin the snow - see what happens:
Dimensions and lighting of rooms, appliances and cabin 6x5W + 5x2W = 40W
- Headlights + fog behind and in front of 2x65W + 2x45W + 2x21W = 250W
- Heater fan at maximum mode current up to 18 amps or 200W.
- the radiator fan for a short time (2-3 minutes) is about 250 volts.
- Heated rear window about 150 watts.
- fuel pump and engine control system of the order of 70-100 watts.
- radio in the average volume mode
It turns out totally 1100-1200 watts, it is about70-100 ampere, i.e. the generator will work at the limit, especially when the radiator fan comes on. And what about a 400-1000 watt amplifier, about halogens 100 watts? Then fit to think about the second generator.
Of course, I have thickened paint, and you can limit consumption a little, do not turn on the rear foglights, turn on the stove by 2 or 3, and the radiator fan runs for a short time (you can turn off the rear window at this time). In this case, it would be useful to have a digital voltmeter on the instrument panel connected directly to the battery terminals. If the voltage on it starts to decrease, then it makes sense to disconnect something. Do not forget, because the battery also consumes some kind of current, and, the more the battery gave during start-up and during parking, the more it will take over after starting the engine, and the more its capacity, the more appetite. Therefore, it makes sense for music lovers to replace a regular generator (hereinafter I think, bearing in mind, by default, VAZs of all types and models), with a passport current of 80 amperes, with a more powerful at least 100-120, and preferably 150 amperes. But do not forget that 120 amps of recoil - this is almost 2 horsepower minus the engine thrust. You have to pay for everything!
Owners of foreign cars, too, it makes sense to estimate these calculations, ideally, take DC clamp and see what flows from the generator to the battery, and how much flows through the second wire from the battery. Usually no one makes such measurements.
And to expand the horizons and to realize the real picture of the energy balance is very useful to do! But technically competent owners who are able to understand the picture and having analyzed, make the right conclusions, one-ny. (!)
Of course, after reading all of the above, and estimating to your experience and feelings, you can make more meaningful conclusions. Should I put in the headlights cheap halogens for 100/110 watts, and warm the headlights and relay contacts in MB, instead of buying expensive branded lamps with good light output and a power of 65/50 watts, and even have the best illumination of the road at lower power. Or put more economical, but expensive xenon lamps?
In conclusion, on the first question, a note on amplifiers and powerful music. When installing a powerful audio system, remember that it will eat up an average current of 20-40 amps (and up to 50-80 amps at power peaks) at 400 watts of power. The calculation is simple:
14volt X 50 Amp = 700 watts at efficiency = 65% (for an amplifier it is close to ideal)
we will have a useful power of about 400 watts. Of course, listening to music at such a volume level is dangerous for the ears, but it is useless to explain. Everyone must step on the personal rake himself! This is assessed later, when the medical board is not able to hear at least something of what the ear is whispering when testing hearing.
On the second question answer is clearly impossible. For a variant with a normally working electrical equipment and a charging system, an increase in battery capacity of 15-25% can give a gain in the starting current, or it may not give anything. It is very important to correctly choose the battery, you can choose a battery of even lower capacity, but with ABOUTmore starting current. For a complete and complete answer to this question without deciding on the choice of a particular brand of battery, its technology and design is indispensable. Here it turns out,
that we are at a crossroads: there are already a few technologies, low antimony, calcium-antimony, calcium-calcium, with silicon dioxide, with silver additives, etc. Properties, too, to choose from, but there is no ideal option! Winning one, sacrifice what - something else. So, due to foolproofness, “Beast” turns out not to be considered an advertisement, but its technology makes it very tenacious, forgives many mistakes and oversights. But it does not mean, what " Akom "or" Akteh " worse, never happened! Calcium / Calcium batteries have the best starting currents and large capacities, with the same dimensions, but do not forgive deep discharges, (and especially discharged storage, even short). Resuscitation after this will not allow the return of more than 80-90% of the original capacity.
The battery consumes from the generator the maximum current in the first minutes after the engine start. In winter, it is smoothed by the fact that moving with frozen windows, on a cold engine is impossible, and these 3-10 minutes are quite sufficient for the charging current from 30-50 amperes to 5-10 amperes and not selecting a significant amount of power at the start of the movement, which is necessary for other energy-intensive consumers.
On the third issue
Given our focus on vazovskie generators, we can summarize, and recognize that they are very similar to Boshev generators 7-10 years old and traditionally have already established structure with small variations. From weak points can be noted First, the ill-conceived design stator winding and diode bridge connections, some improvements manufacturers made, (replaced screws for Phillips screwdriver, on the hexagon head bolts, allowing you to increase the torque), but this is a half decision. The material of the insulating part has insufficient heat resistance, and is fused when operating in limit modes. Once overloaded - and in the near future a diode bridge will follow. Especially if at least one end of the winding is tightly clamped with a screw. The weakening of contact and overheating in this place is increasing avalanche.Check the health of the diodes diode bridge
(when the stator winding is turned off), the best control and Power supply, or battery. You can use a car carrier, this will allow you to visually assess the health of all diodes, as it often doesn’t detect incomplete failures using a multimeter. And connection positive and negative plates of the bridge, first to plus, and then to the minus allows, three connections to the connection points of the winding pins in direct and reverse connection to detect openings and short circuits in the diodes, just check and add. diodes. First, we connect to the negative terminal of the battery that plate, which is pressed against the generator housing (negative) and, connecting the free end (we connect the second end of the carrying to + battery) to the connection points of the stator winding, the positive terminal bolt, the output terminal of the additional diodes, the lamp is not must burn or highlighted. Glow or weak highlighting indicates breakdown of the transition and its closure.Next, we change the connections, the negative plate to + battery, the second end of the transfer is switched to the negative battery. With the free end of the carrying we connect to the same points, and in all cases the lamp should be completely heated. The absence of luminescence, at some of the conclusions, indicates a diode break in this circuit (the transition is destroyed and the circuit is broken.) The diode bridge is an inexpensive thing and usually no one is engaged in repressing diodes, additional diodes fail more often, and they are simply soldered, side cutter and soldering iron 60 watts.
On the radio market or in the store of radio parts they cost 3-5 rubles, you can use imported 1N54 **, where ** can be from 01 to 12, which characterizes the reverse voltage in hundreds of volts, we can use any, domestic KD226 * where * - the letter is also suitable for any letter. The white belt on the body is the anode or, if viewed according to the scheme, it is a “stick”, and the pin without a belt is an “arrow” or cathode. When replacing, do not confuse polarity!
Check stator winding it is more difficult to check for an open or short circuit to the case the same carrying on open circuit and short circuit to the case, but it is better to check the short circuit to the case by checking at 220 volt 25 watts it will allow, guaranteed to detect damage to the insulation. But it can only be recommended to those, who knows electrical engineering in practice, not from textbooks (in terms of safety.). BUT here it is more difficult to reveal the interturning closure, devices are needed here, although if you apply voltage to the brushes and disconnect the diode bridge, spinning the rotor with a drill, or in another way, allows you to evaluate, if it spins easily and the winding does not heat up, then everything is OK! And if it creates a strong reaction and brakes strongly, and a part of the winding is very hot, then this already indicates the presence of interturn closures. In conditions specialized car service usually used special testers for all components of generators. There is a whole line of such devices for: stator windings, voltage regulators rotor and diode bridges different companies, for example, "Transpo". That is, a specialized device provides measurement parameters, protection against short circuits and possible connection errors. when checking. But to test in terms of their own garage or small service, these test devices are too expensive, and will not pay off soon.
Check rotor winding
somewhat simpler, in fact it is a rotating electromagnet, therefore, simply by applying voltage to the collector rings, one can estimate the magnetization, bringing a steel object to the rotor magnetic circuit. The attraction must be strong. The absence of a short circuit of the rotor winding on the case can be estimated by the same control, safer than 12 volt, and more guaranteed 220 volt control, or more simply with a 250, 500 or 1000 volt megger. Multimeters on the 20M range also provide an opportunity to assess the quality of the insulation. If the insulation resistance is more than 500 kΩ, then this value can be considered valid. Modern methods and materials allow you to quickly apply an additional layer of insulating varnish aerosol spray, quickly and reliably.
When replacing the collector rings, it is especially neat to ensure the connection of the winding leads, with reliable mechanical fastening and electrical contact. Solder only with a soldering iron of sufficient power to ensure reliable soldering. It should be remembered that the rotor rotates at speeds up to 15-18 thousand revolutions, and centrifugal forces can tear off the wire, if it is not fixed mechanically reliably.
From personal experience, there was a case where a generator, normally working on the stand, when promoting the engine to 5-6 thousand revolutions, began to produce more than 18-20 volts disabling the lamp and led to boiling electrolyte. After replacing several voltage regulators, the problem persists.. During disassembly and close inspection, it turned out that the output of the rotor winding, due to careless repair, it was not fixed (plastic tide broke off on the winding frame). This caused the wire to move at high speeds by centrifugal forces and short to body metal, it short-circuited the regulator and led to recharge the battery and if it were not for the battery, which took over the function of voltage limiting, the consequences would be more severe. Oddly enough, the radio tape recorder did not fail, although all the backlight bulbs burned out quickly.
Check voltage regulator without a special device, only an approximate one is possible; for this purpose, an adjustable power supply unit of 3-16 volts is needed, for current 3-5 ampere, control and digital multimeter in voltage measurement mode. We connect control, or carrying to PH brushes, output minus (mass) to the minus source, plus the source to the output plus PH. With a voltmeter we control the voltage of the source, we begin to increase the voltage, at some point the lamp should go out, this will be the regulator voltage (Set Point), reduce the voltage and notice its value at the moment when the lamp lights up. The measurement accuracy is approximate, since in a real switching circuit the voltage is pulsating, the winding has a rather significant inductance, and the temperature of the regulator differs from the real one. But the accuracy of this method is quite sufficient and almost 14.2 volts obtained, with this method of verification, they are sure that the PH is working and has a normal threshold. For remote controls, testing can be done in the same way, only it is necessary to know how the rotor is turned on. therefore control connected instead of the rotor should be connected to either ground (minus) or plus. If the lamp does not go out even at 16 volts, then the regulator is faulty, - the regulating power transistor is broken. If it does not light up at all, then most likely the output transistor is in a cliff, i.e. the transition is ruined.
Calculate the energy balance of the onboard network car is easy, almost we did it in the first section.
So, we have all the passport capacities or operating currents of consumers, and the initial data of the vehicle’s on-board network are 14 volts of the mains voltage, 55-75 A-hours battery capacity, and 80 Amps of the generator current rating. Here, on the basis of these initial data and the power consumed by all the additional devices installed on the car, one can estimate how much electricity stored in the battery will suffice and whether the generator can cope with energy replenishment to ensure normal operation. Generator power is 14c X 80a = 1120 watts. That's how much we can afford, well, as a last resort, 1200-1300 watts, but in this case, the battery can fail in the morning. It is good to have an idea how much the generator is loaded in economy mode (we limit consumption as much as possible) and when operating without restrictions.
Gasoline pump and engine control system = 80-120 watts;
Fan heater 1-2-3 = 20-40-70 watts;
Dimensions plus headlights 120 (200) watts;
Fog lights + rear 90 + 40 watts;
Heated rear window 150-200 watts;
Wiper + washer 30-80 watt;
Heated seats 50-70Х1 (2) watts;
Radiator fan 150-200 watts;
The radio tape recorder is usual from 50 to 150 watts;
Audio amplifier, power on the passport;
The battery after starting the engine do50-70a (700-1000vatt), and less than 3-5a (40-70vatt) in stationary mode.
Total dialed from 150 watts and up to 2400 watt (without amplifier)
Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the actual consumption, because the generator with overcurrent, begins to overheat and reduce voltage, while the battery does not receive the necessary charging, with all the ensuing consequences. And if this balance is maintained daily and the consumption exceeds the replenishment, then it is necessary either to recharge the battery, or it will not be possible to start the car in one “fine” day. If the machine is equipped with a powerful audio system that is actively and constantly used, then there is a reason to think about installing a more powerful generator.
The article was written by Shamil Saubanov (aka denkisan).
This article will be essentially the beginning of articles about car audio.
For example, will use the car VAZ 2114.
On the Internet, and in everyday life there is an opinion that it is impossible to put akb of greater capacity, because The battery will not fully charge. And bind the numbers on the battery and the generator.
Duck here guys!
On akb write 60a / h, 75a / h and so on. A / h hour This figure means how many hours a battery can produce a current of 1 ampere. Those. 60a / h will produce 60 hours of current of 1 ampere, approximately 30 hours of current of 2 amperes (why approximately? Because this characteristic is not linear! What does this mean? This means that with a current of 60 amperes, the battery will not last for an hour). Ie it turns out a / h on the battery - this is not how many amps the battery can issue!
Starter consumption at the time of cold start-up reaches values over 400-500 amperes (again, on different machines in different ways), so if the battery 60 a / h gave 60 amperes, then the dick would have brought your life)
Now the generator ... On the stock generator, the numbers are 14v 80a.
What does it mean? Well, 14 I think it is clear that the voltage generated. But 80 amps is the maximum output current at 5000-6000 thousand revolutions of the generator pulley. Let us translate the engine speed: the gear ratio on VAZ engines ranges from 2.04 (VAZ 2109 carburetor) to 2.4 (VAZ 2114 injector), that is, roughly speaking to 2500-3000 engine revolutions, the generator goes to its maximum current output.
I hope now you distinguish amps from a / h.
Well, the most pie article.
The car does not use the principle of charge for current 1/10 of the capacity of acb as in chargers.
In the generator there is such a simple thing as a relay regulator (they are also remote, for example - a three-level regulator is an excellent "weigh"). The task of the regulator relay is to maintain a voltage of about 14 volts in the network (depending on the regulator and its state).
The voltage in the network of a fully corrected auto ranges from 13.6 to 14.2, depending on which consumers are included.
ATTENTION! subtleties for real men! The relay regulator controls the excitation winding current of the generator, and controlling the excitation it regulates the output voltage that goes to the full-wave rectifier (horseshoe is, diode bridge) with stator windings. Well, the rectifier did its work and at the output of the generator we end up with constant pressure. Which goes to consumers, including akb.
Relay controller in the shower does not know about the existence of akb. You can say rudely: the acb itself chooses a charge current. When it is planted deep, up to 10-11 volts, the charge current reaches the "doher" ampere (depends on the capacity of the battery and the power of the generator), then it gradually falls. It turns out that the generator does not care what kind of akb charge 60 a / h or 80 a / h
BUT! where without reefs! If both 80 and 60 acb are planted to zero, then for 80 you will need a larger initial charge current than that of 60. In addition, 80 acb from zero will charge for more than 60, until full charge. And I'm afraid your generator will be difficult to export from scratch 80 akb. I will please you) You will not have to start the car on a fully landed acb, the starter will not turn, and if the machine is an injector, it will not start from the "pusher", there will not be enough voltage (especially if you have BOSCH brains, they are difficult to start if the voltage fell closer 9 volts). The only option is to have a cigarette. And yet - the auto battery charges a maximum percentage of 80-90, for 100% charging you need a voltage of about 15-16 volts (again, in theory). About the use of the battery will have to write a separate article.
Also, if you decide to set yourself an acb from a KAMAZ at 120 a / h, you should know that if it lands at 0 and requires more than 100 amps to charge, your generator will not take out, in the worst case, it will burn (of course, with a long-term load).
Another moment! You started the car on both 60 and 80 acb, for example, the capacity of both of them dropped by 5 a / h. Duck here is the charging time of these 5 a / h will be the same, which is 60, which is 80.
Somehow like this…
If you still decide to put more powerful batteries, for VAZ 2114, choose no more than 80 a / h. In winter, the machine will start well, especially if you have a gear starter installed.
The most important thing: Properly serve the battery!
With a generator and akb capacity finally figured out. Phew ...
There is still one misconception: the load on the wiring increases. Well, it's all guys nonsense. We connect a light bulb to 60 acb, and let's say it eats 1 ampere, it will have 1 amp at 80 batteries too! The current through the wires will flow the same. The only thing if a short-circuit happens, the wires puff faster, but there are fuses for it ...
Well, and all that I wanted to say, if I forgot something, then I will add.